George Vondriska teaches you a quick and easy trick for iron-on veneer applications. This example involves applying veneer to MDF using a household iron and a recycled paper grocery bag. You can iron the veneer onto a substrate by painting both materials completely with yellow glue and then rubbing a hot iron over the veneer until all the bubbles and wrinkles are removed from the surface.
Titebond Original Wood Glue provided by Titebond. For more information, visit www.titebond.com.
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I started using the low cost plastic scrapers made by Richards sold at the big box stores who shall remain nameless. I found I can spread an even glue layer across large surfaces quickly and the benifit is that the scaper can be cleaned off and used again and again. I tried using severl different paint brush techniques but always found the glue was difficult to spread. Any thoughts on my method good or bad?
How well does this gluing method hold with time and usage?
Why not use a flexible spreader rather thana brush, on the substrate and then use a brush with somewhat shorter bristle length on the veneer; something that wouldn’t harm the veneer during application but would be flexible enough to make an even film on its back, possibley a smaller version of a wall paper applicator brush
Is this method viable for larger panels, like 18″x40″? And, separately, would you suggest this method if using burl veneer?
Thank you for contacting us. In response to your question George said “I don’t think the veneer, plain sawn vs quarter sawn vs burl, would affect the application. Yes, it could be used on larger panels.”
I’m sure there must be a maximum drying time before the ability to reconstitute the adhesion is lost. I’m thinking this technique would help me with my refacing kitchen cabinets project. What might be a maximum drying time?
Thank you for your comment.
The glue has to be dry to the touch before ironing, but we wouldn’t let it sit much longer than that before getting the veneer ironed on.