George Vondriska demonstrates the best way to apply a simple finishing mixture to a bottle stopper that is durable and will give the piece a proper shine. While the bottle stopper is still on your lathe, you can dab on light layers of thin-viscosity CA wood glue and linseed oil.
Titebond Instant Wood Glue provided by Titebond. For more information, visit www.titebond.com.
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Ticket 37394 Does this technique also work with tung oil?
Hello Selder,
I haven’t tried it but I’d say that there is a chance that it would work. If you try it out, please let us know how it goes.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
Curious as to why the BLO is used? Does it impart durability or a better looking finish, since BLO is known for making the grain pop? (I have turned pens using only CA glue if I want a shiny durable finish).
Hello Judy. It gives it a warmer tone, and extends the working time a bit making it a more user friendly finish. Straight CA glue also works well.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
What type of micro mesh are you using, grit, and anything else that I have forgotten to ask about micro mesh. Where did you get it? I have never used this. You have any vids on micro mesh? Great vid George. Thx.
Hey Michael,
Our expert, Paul has some advice for you:
Here’s a great kit to get you started: https://amzn.to/2SwGnkl
You’ll probably want to start with traditional sandpaper at 150 – 180 grit, then move to Micro Mesh, starting with 1500 and moving through 8000 or 12000.
Paul
If you have any additional questions or concerns, please chat, email or call us at 1-855-253-0822.
Happy Woodworking!
Madeline
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
This is one of the Best ideas i have come across in years. Finish is Great and is so fast and Easy. Thank You so Much for the Tip……Happy Turning
To how fine of a grit should be used for both the before application of Linseed oil and CA glue and the resanding after application of Linseed oil and CA glue?
I would suggest sanding to 320 or 400 grit before applying finish. After the finish has cured, buff with the back of a typical paper-backed sandpaper. This surface provides a very slight abrasive quality, probably comparable to a 2000-3000 grit sandpaper, and can smooth the surface nicely. (ZD: 3449)
How much time does it take for the linseed oil/thin CA to dry before recoating and when finally finished? I tried this. Thought it was dry. But not getting the glossy finish. Thanks
This will depend on multiple factors, including the moisture content of the wood, the brand of CA that you are using, and probably more importantly the relative humidity at the time you are applying the finish. If you are not getting a good glossy finish, then it is possible that you are recoating too soon, but other possibilities might be that the wood iteself is not sufficiently dry, or that you have not sanded the piece thoroughly enough. I’d suggest trying an experiment and letting it sit for 24 hours before recoating. If it looks good at that point, you will know that you did not wait long enough. From there, you can dial it back to determine how long is appropriate in your conditions. In general, you should be able to recoat within an hour or so using this approach, but as with anything your mileage may vary depending on the parameters I’ve outlined here
Thanks. Sounds like a time consuming process. Not for when you want to do several. I’ve looked at some other methods, but I don’t think they’ll give as durable a finish as this one. Patience, part of being a craftsman. 🙂 Thanks
I did go buy the exact same brands as featured in your video. I seem to get just a matte to maybe a satin finish. The amount of linseed oil seems to be a no-brainer. I’m not sure if I’m using the right proportion of CA glue. I do use about 5 or 6 drops as it looks like in the video. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
This can be touchy, and depends on the wood species as well. I’d suggest that you try adding a bit more CA glue to achieve a higher proportion of CA, and this should create more lustrous finish.
Thanks! That makes sense. Being new to the process, I hadn’t thought of that.
I wonder if it could be I’m putting on too much boiled linseed oil? Looks like George slops it on pretty good. I’ll try using less.
Great idea, but I concur with the first comment. Turners should always wear eye protection. You can never be sure that the finish won’t be too thin and come flying off of the piece. Turners know that accidents can come at blinding speed…
I use this on some of my pens and other turnings. Beautiful finish!