Woodworking expert George Vondriska demonstrates how to make a continuous grain box. A WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video.
Dual Bevel Glide Miter Saw provided by Bosch. For more information, visit www.boschtools.com
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Nicely done! I should do that as an exercise in setting up my saw at top precision!!
You did use the word ‘fold’ at the start, and I thought you were going to get into the technique of cutting the miters not quite through and then actually folding the sides around the corners … I have heard of this but never seen it … has anybody else? Stay well and stay safe! John
This approach yields a box with a three corner match, not really “continuous grain”, as the fourth corner consists of the two extreme ends of the original board. To make a true “continuous grain” box with a four corner match you must first re-saw the board and then open in end to end before laying out the four sides.
Very detailed in the cutting of the board, but would have been nice to see from the other side of the saw for that short end to short end cut. I’m new to woodworking and don’t fully understand the short end to short end cut. Thank you, you have a subscriber for life.
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What is the best type of blade for the miter for this project?
Hi Josh. If you have a blade that is appropriate for your saw, whether it is a traditional or sliding miter saw, it should work well for a miter.
Here are some good options if you have a SCMS: http://www.freudtools.com/products/explore/saw-blades/crosscutting/thin-kerf-sliding-compound-miter-saw
Here are some options for a traditional miter saw: http://www.freudtools.com/products/explore/saw-blades/crosscutting/thin-kerf-fine-finish-crosscut
Thanks for the video! At the end of the video it seems like the sides of the box are not continuous, because the 2 parts of the knot (I hope I translated this right) are not on adjacent sides?. Maybe I misunderstood something? Thanks and regards from the Netherlands, Michiel
Hi Michiel. I’m not seeing the knot that you are referring to. It’s possible that he has set the pieces in the wrong sequence, although they look correct to me as I view the video. The procedure that he uses will in fact produce a continuous grain around the perimeter of the box if you follow the steps properly.
I thought the same thing Michiel
There is one corner of the box where the grain will not flow around as well as the other three; it is the corner where the left and right ends of the pre-cut board join and should be placed to the rear of your project.
I concur, it is clearly assembled wrong. George, your random squiggly line did not help you here. The clearest way to see the defect is to look for the extremely dark knot on one edge of the board. The shot of the box in clamps shows that the two dark patches are on opposite corners of the box, meaning it was just put together out of order. There’s no way that this is not visible to someone who knows timber work – sorry Customer Service, it’s clear as anything…
Great video, Thanks! Perhaps you could comment on the following:
My boxes are 5 1/2 in tall or less – so I can use my simple 10″ chop saw. But I had a lot of trouble getting a square cut – the outside of the 45 cut (nearest me) was always very slightly shorter than the inside next to the fence. But cutting at 90 always was square. No way could I adjust it out. Eventually, I thought that the workpiece was either being pulled forward a bit during the cut, or alternatively the saw head itself was slightly being pulled down-left at the end of the cut. I put a piece of sandpaper on the bed of the sled, and when its long enough, I clamo it to the bed of the sled. I also, when making the cut, try not to ‘bear down’ during the slice – but instead actually try to have a slight upward pressure during the cut. The ‘shortening’ is reduced – but not totally gone.
What do you think is happening? Any suggestions?
What floors me is that the cut is perfectly square at 90. The shortening only happens during the miter 45 cut.
Thanks for your help.
This sound like the miter mechanism on your saw is not running true. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer to see if it can be adjusted, and if not, it might be time for a new saw. Miters are nothing but frustration if the saw is not capable of performing a precise cut.