George Vondriska

Make a Continuous Grain Box

George Vondriska
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Duration:   7  mins

Woodworking expert George Vondriska demonstrates how to make a continuous grain box. A WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video.

Dual Bevel Glide Miter Saw provided by Bosch. For more information, visit

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6 Responses to “Make a Continuous Grain Box”

  1. John Allport

    Nicely done! I should do that as an exercise in setting up my saw at top precision!! You did use the word 'fold' at the start, and I thought you were going to get into the technique of cutting the miters not quite through and then actually folding the sides around the corners ... I have heard of this but never seen it ... has anybody else? Stay well and stay safe! John

  2. Cameron

    This approach yields a box with a three corner match, not really "continuous grain", as the fourth corner consists of the two extreme ends of the original board. To make a true "continuous grain" box with a four corner match you must first re-saw the board and then open in end to end before laying out the four sides.

  3. MICK

    Very detailed in the cutting of the board, but would have been nice to see from the other side of the saw for that short end to short end cut. I'm new to woodworking and don't fully understand the short end to short end cut. Thank you, you have a subscriber for life.

  4. Josh

    What is the best type of blade for the miter for this project?

  5. michiel

    Thanks for the video! At the end of the video it seems like the sides of the box are not continuous, because the 2 parts of the knot (I hope I translated this right) are not on adjacent sides?. Maybe I misunderstood something? Thanks and regards from the Netherlands, Michiel

  6. Chris Hudson

    Great video, Thanks! Perhaps you could comment on the following: My boxes are 5 1/2 in tall or less - so I can use my simple 10" chop saw. But I had a lot of trouble getting a square cut - the outside of the 45 cut (nearest me) was always very slightly shorter than the inside next to the fence. But cutting at 90 always was square. No way could I adjust it out. Eventually, I thought that the workpiece was either being pulled forward a bit during the cut, or alternatively the saw head itself was slightly being pulled down-left at the end of the cut. I put a piece of sandpaper on the bed of the sled, and when its long enough, I clamo it to the bed of the sled. I also, when making the cut, try not to 'bear down' during the slice - but instead actually try to have a slight upward pressure during the cut. The 'shortening' is reduced - but not totally gone. What do you think is happening? Any suggestions? What floors me is that the cut is perfectly square at 90. The shortening only happens during the miter 45 cut. Thanks for your help. Chris

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