George Vondriska

How to Cut Bowl Blanks from Logs

George Vondriska
Duration:   18  mins

Once you know how to create bowl blanks from logs, turning bowls from fresh cut timber is one of the most satisfying aspects woodworking. The material is abundant and cheap and every project is inherent unique due to the unpredictability of what treasure lies inside of each log. Even the preparatory process of how to create bowl blanks from logs can be fun and straightforward if you following a few simple steps that George covers in this video. As a prerequisite you will want to have a good understanding of how to use a bandsaw. Also, if you need some information on woodturning, WWGOA has an abundance of woodturning videos.

Stock selection

Even before applying your knowledge of how to create bowl blanks from logs, it is important to learn how to identify which parts of a log will produce the most beautiful projects. The difference of which part of the tree select, and how you cut your blank will have a dramatic effect on the grain pattern that is revealed in the piece.

Preparing bowl blank

As you learn how to create bowl blanks from logs, you will be utilizing the band saw to process a log into something that can be safely and efficiently mounted on your lathe. Blade selection is critical because you can cause problems on both your bandsaw and your bowl blank by using the wrong blade.

Minimizing checking

As much you will want to turn that blank right away, you might have to save it for later, but having a stash of bowl blanks waiting for you is like having money in the bank! To store it in a way that minimizes the potential for checking in the wood, it will be important to follow a couple simple steps that George will show you.

Share tips, start a discussion or ask other students a question. If you have a question for the instructor, please click here.

Make a comment:
characters remaining

No Responses to “How to Cut Bowl Blanks from Logs”

No Comments

I have sort of this addiction problem which is whenever I run across what I think are gonna be really good-looking and trunks of wood that will result in good-looking bowls, I can't help, but stop and grab them. And one of the questions that's come out of that from people is, well how do you know what you're looking for? What are you identifying there? And then the next thing is, what do you do with that piece when you get it back in the shop? So first using this piece, let's talk about what it is that caught my attention here.

As a general rule, any time that we get a chunk of crotch wood, it's gonna be cool. The way to think about this is this is like two rivers that are coming together. And when the grain from this one and the grain from this one come together right here, I predict there's gonna be a really cool grain pattern. I think that this chunk is a piece of ash but I'm not 100% sure. I'll know more once I can get past the bark and we can actually see the grain of the wood.

So one of the things that's cool about that is look at how big that is. What would it cost me to go out and buy an ash bowl blank this big, it'd be really expensive. So I got this one for free. Two, because of the way that the grain is coming together here. And look at the other side is even a little bit more swirly.

It might be worth even keeping this piece up here for a smaller bowl 'cause that had a branch coming out of it. So this weirdness right here is showing me that inside there, there's probably something pretty cool. So that's the kind of thing that I look for is what's unusual. The other thing is when wood lays for a long time in a damp environment, it'll start often to get a little bit of spalting. Spalting is a fungus that grows in the wood.

And a lot of times on the end, this one doesn't have it. You'll see little black stripes little black lines up against the lighter colored wood. That's the spalting. If there's mushrooms growing on the outside of the log, it's probably a good sign that there's some spalting going on inside. So that's another thing that I look for is that what that spalting does is it creates a really cool contrast with those dark lines against the lighter-colored wood.

Next thing, what do we do to process this? First thing, when you don't know where the stuff came from you gotta be real careful about yourself and your tools. And that's why this is laying here. This is a metal detector, that's a metal chisel. So one of the things I don't know is was this growing in somebody's yard, and they pounded a nail in there to hold a close line.

And I'd really liked to know that before I go to the bandsaw step. So kind of like TSA at the airport, we're gonna give this thing a once-over. A metal detector is really a must have if you're gonna run stuff like this into your shop. This one looks great. Not given me any indication on metal, so that's good.

But there are bolts in the bench, aren't there? Next thing we need to do is get this to the bandsaw and start turning our bandsaw into a saw mill. Start processing this into a bowl blank. We're gonna do a lot of work on the bandsaw. This is really the perfect tool for converting our log into a bowl blank.

Why not qualify a little bit here? You're looking at a saw that's a 220 volt, three horse. However, I've done this a gazillion times on conventional 14-inch saws, one horse, 110 volt motors. It's really more about making sure you have the right blade, then making sure that you have a really large horsepower saw. Right blade, we really want a nice wide blade in there with a very aggressive tooth pattern.

So teeth are expressed as TPI, teeth per inch. I'd be looking for something that's about three teeth per inch. It's kind of like having a chainsaw chain here on our bandsaw. Basically, that's a kind of work that we're looking to do here. We don't need a real fine cut.

It needs to be nice and aggressive especially with green wood so it can clear the waste out of the cut, make sure that we can make the cut that we want. Now let's see what we've got here. I'll tell you what I'm looking for. One thing is I'm gonna do a cut eventually where this needs to be able to stand up just like this on the bandsaw. So one thing I'm looking at here is it's standing fairly straight.

And what that comes down to is for whomever ran a chainsaw over this thing and dumped it at the compost pile, did they cut this end squarely? And that one's actually not too bad. So I can live with that. If not, what I would do is run the log this way and do an end trim on here. And I'm gonna go ahead just for the sake of showing you.

It is just a little bit kerflooey, so I'm gonna go ahead and show you how this cut looks. Now, one of the things I got going here is that because of the nature of this crotch piece, it's not gonna be prone to rolling. If the log is simply around that I'm converting into a bowl blank, then I would need to stabilize this to prevent it from having the opportunity to pitch when the blade makes contact. If the log rolls any kind of round stack rolls on the bandsaw, it's very dangerous, and it's very easy to get the blade jammed up in the cut. So if I didn't have this flat kind of leg nature going here, I would have to stabilize this.

Let me get my hearing protection. So first cut square in that end off, so it stands up nice, straight. Partway through, but I'm just a little low on my upper guide. And that can be hard to predict sometimes because of the irregular nature of the logs. So that ran into a stopping point on me.

Here we go. Let that come to a stop. Based on smell of ash in here. I'm pretty sure that we are working with ash. There's our cross section cookie coming out of there.

That's pretty cool-looking already. All right. Yeah, that's straighter. So straighter meaning what I'm looking at is the nature of the log this way, perpendicular to that base for when I do a cut and just a little bit. Next thing is to start taking these branches off of here.

For this, we're gonna come back this way, and I start to visualize at this point what the round bowl blank is gonna look like when I get there later. So I'm gonna come in here, and make just a little bit of an arc. It's a big blade. So it's not gonna let me turn much of a circle, cut across, complete that circle out here taking the other branch off. Now I think I can bring my upper guide back down a little bit.

Okie doke, now, well even just looking here where we've made the cuts, we're starting to see why I do this. We've got a little bit of discoloration going on right there. If that continues into the log, that's gonna be really cool. Then up here, there's just a little bit of a swirl starting to show itself where those two crotch pieces come together. Next step, we're gonna go this way.

Now the qualifier here is I'm not doing a natural bowl. What I'm shooting for here is just a bowl blank where the two sides are gonna end up flat. If you're doing a natural ramble, we're make the first cut. Probably wouldn't make the second cut. We'll talk more about that in just a little bit.

My upper guides now are too much low. Now we're asking a lot of the bandsaw here. We're cutting a lot of wood. So take it easy. Let the saw do the work, and that work is we're gonna cut a straight a line as possible across this face, trying to establish a flat face.

Here comes the big reveal. Let's see what's under there. ♪ Do do do do ♪ Oh, not too cool looking yet. Let's see what happens when I get to the other side. Now, when I do the other side, what we're looking for is to strike a line with our bandsaw blade.

That's about parallel to this face. So we could do this a couple of ways. One is to freehand it. Another way is to measure and mark. So over here I could get four and a half inches, four and a half, that's gonna work, and a felt tip works better than a pencil because of the irregular shape of this, making the line as a little bit unique.

So I'm eyeball on the ruler on the line, and we are after all gonna put this on a lave and turn it. So it's not quite perfect. It's still gonna be okay. All right, there's our next step. All right, now we're talking.

This is very cool. Here's what I'm looking at. Really neat grain pattern going across there, out here on the ends, see where this is kind of got a three-dimensional look to it. That's called the chatoyance of the wood. When this gets turned, and then especially this gets polished.

This is gonna be just amazing. Now that dark spot I was looking at is here. I can't tell from this cut if that's gonna continue down or not, we won't know until we actually turn this into a bowl. From here, what I would do next is figure out where a circle can lay on this. How big a circle I can create.

Draw the circle, cut that round on the bandsaw and that chunk of wood would be ready to go on the lave and turn into a really beautiful bowl. A couple things to pay attention to here. This wood is wet. That means that sawdust is wet. Don't walk away from the bandsaw and leave that stuff sit on there for too long 'cause the moisture in the sawdust will start to rust your cast iron table.

Next question is, what do we do with this if we're not gonna turn it right away? Let's head back for the bench, and I'll show you a really simple solution for that. I know that I'm not gonna get to this bowl blank right away. So I wanna protect it from cracking. Here's the dealio, it's really, really wet right now.

Let's see how wet. 28% moisture content. Now is just to give you a perspective lumber that's been air dried that you might be using for projects is 12 to 14%, kiln dried six to 8%. If I just let this sit out in the open it's gonna start to crack, and I'm not gonna be able to turn a bowl out of it. So I want us to prevent that from happening, a really easy way to put this in a hermetically-sealed environment is to get a big roll of stretch film.

This is like saran wrap on steroids. It's a heavier plastic, saran wrap from your kitchen, plastic wrap from your kitchen. Isn't gonna work for this 'cause it's not heavy-duty enough. You can get this from places that supply shipping supplies. So maybe a local UPS or a FedEx store would probably have it on the shelf.

This is an 18-inch wide roll which works really well for this kind of stuff. So that I have enough with to wrap up even large blanks. That's pretty well covered in that direction. And then I'm gonna do the same thing going the other way. And basically it's a simple goal here.

We just wanna get this into a plastic envelope where moisture can't escape. And this is much more effective than painting it, and a whole lot easier to do. And then for my own edification I like to label this ash, and then today's date. And then it's current moisture content. And that way it just helps me keep track of how quickly I should get to these.

Some moisture might be leaving from this. So I wouldn't wanna leave this set for years and years. I'd wanna get to it in a few months. Why do I do this? Here's a chunk that's a pretty good example.

This is a piece of , and isn't that pink cool? So again, where could I get a big chunk of like this, except from a log? Like the other piece, we've got some crotch stuff going on here. This was the main trunk of the tree, so there's the hardwood, sapwood, and pith on that side. And then on this side, and then this was a branch coming off of the tree where it started to rot.

So it really gives us a cool look. Remember that that I mentioned on the ash, there it is right here in the. Compelling reasons to do this, get yourself big chunks of unusual wood, beautiful stuff. I particularly like working with the crotch pieces but any log can become a bowl blank, relatively easy to do, and handle on the bandsaw, so that you can mill those down, get them to a point where they're safe to mount on the wreath and turn into beautiful bowls like this one.

Get exclusive premium content! Sign up for a membership now!