George Vondriska

How to Make a Planter Box

George Vondriska
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Duration:   49  mins

Here’s a great way to green up your patio, backyard, deck or any other outdoor space. Build a couple of these planter boxes, and a potted plant, and you can place the box anywhere you want. Here’s a warning; plan on making a bunch of these. When people see them, EVERYONE will want one. This is a simple project, but it will teach you a lot of great woodworking tips.

Material

Since these will be living outside (they are planter boxes after all) you should choose a material can readily live outside. We use cedar for the planter boxes made in the video, but here are some alternative choices: white oak, ipe, mahogany. You can use other materials if you’re careful about sealing the wood to protect them from the weather.

Glue

Since the planter box will be outside it’s important to choose the right glue. One choice would be Titebond II, and another would be Titebond III. Either choice will give you the protection you need to insure the bonds you create stand up.

Fasteners

We have a theme going. This project will live outside, so be careful about choosing your fasteners. Anything that can be used on a deck can be used on this project. It’s important that the fasteners are coated so they don’t start to rust and stain the material. Even if you’re painting the complete project, you need to use coated fasteners.

Another planter

Here’s a project we’ve designed that’s very popular; a standing planter box. This works great for flowers, vegetables, and more. The planter is about waist high, so there’s no bending to do your gardening.

And…

Not every project needs to be an outdoor project. We’ve got more woodworking projects for you to choose from.

Download the cut list here

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22 Responses to “How to Make a Planter Box”

  1. Henry Sautter

    Thanks for a great project. I am sure many variations are possible. To use a 12″ pot so there needed to be some size adjustments. Make the frames and sides 13 1/4″ long. The each side can be identical with no need for the wider side piece. Start with one side piece aligned with each corner on all four sides. Then add the next side pieces aligned with the edge of the first four side pieces. The remaining space on each side will fit two side pieces with the intended gaps. Then adjust the trim and top as needed to match the new dimensions.

    Reply
  2. DARRELL

    I’ve got to ask the sign behind u how do u read it lol is it a verse out the Bible?? How is it read because it make no sense I’f u read it

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Darrell. No, it’s not a bible verse. It’s just an expression that means I will make things, enjoy the process and take pride in my work.
      Paul
      Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  3. Martin

    The dimensions given do not make mathematical sense. The length of the individual frame pieces must be at least equal to 4 times the width of the smaller side piece plus 3 times the desired gap less the the thickness of the material, i.e. if the side piece is 3 1/2″, the desired gap 1/2″ and the material thickness 3/4″, then the length of the frame would be 14 3/4″ and not the 12 1/2″ shown. Similarly if the desired gap is 1/4″ then the frame length would equal 14″. You have given the frame dimension as less than 4 times the side width: which is impossible.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Martin,

      Thank you for contacting us.
      The cutlist provided for the planter box is correct. The frame pieces are 12-1/2” long and butted against another frame piece. That makes the overall outside dimension of the frame 13-1/4”. Skinning the outside starts with two 1×4 pieces, nominal, actually 3-1/2” wide. That leaves a 6-1/4” opening in the middle.

      On the other side we have the frame piece plus the butt joint plus the two pieces that are surfaced applied on the adjoining faces. That provides an overall outside dimension of 14-3/4”. Fasten the corner 1x4s. Subtracting the width of those two 1x4s = 7-3/4”. That’s mathematically correct for two 1x4s and three ¼” spacers.
      https://tnmarketingcs.zendesk.com/attachments/token/vpqgIbArn0K07tTwWWv6R60l7/?name=image002.jpg

      If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-253-0822, or chat with us on our site.

      We greatly appreciate your business!

      Sincerely,

      Lindsay
      Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
      • Martin

        Many thanks. My confusion came in where I was trying to fasten 4 shorter side pieces to to the frame side in one go and then 2 shorter side piece and one larger piece on the other side. I now see that by initially adding 2 shorter piece to all four sides the frame length effectively becomes longer. Once again, thanks.

        Reply
  4. TOM

    Ok, I’m a little lost here. The cut list for the Frames makes each frame piece 12 1/2 inches long so each side then would be 12 1/2 PLUS the thickness of the adjoining side which is 3/4 inches for a total side length of 13 1/4. If I lay 4 1X4’s edge to edge along the side I have 14 inches in width. If I move the two end boards out 3/4 of an inch to overlap the edges of the next side I end up with 12 1/2 inches of edge t edge boards along a side that is 13 1/4 inches long. So I have room for 1/4 inch of spacing between those boards. I the video it appears that George has about twice that much of a gap. Am I mis-reading something here? Or have the dimensions been changed since the video?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Tom,

      It’s ok if the spacing isn’t identical to George’s, as you might be just dealing with differences in the width of your stock. I suggest making the spacing as even as possible, and ripping your 1 x 8 to a width that makes the spacing consistent on the other two sides.

      Best of luck,
      Paul, Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  5. Dave Engstrom

    If you put a 4 ft whip hose on your stapler, it would be a lot easier to get into tight spots like that box.

    Reply
  6. Robert Nevarez

    What is the bit you used to pre-drill also size? Please and thank you

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      That’s called a countersink bit and it has a tapered bit. Here’s an example: https://amzn.to/31QGbCN
      I don’t know the exact size that was used there, but you want to drill a hole that is slightly larger than the screw on the top board, and one that is slightly smaller than the screw on the bottom board. The tapered bit allows you to drill both holes with one setup.

      Paul
      Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  7. Mark Neese

    The cut list shows 20 – 3 1/2” sides. Shouldn’t there be 24?

    Reply
  8. Ernesto Dorado Jr.

    On the download, what is the second cut list for? Single planter? I bought enough material for the second cut list set the intention of only building one planter. Do I have the correct cut list?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Mark. The video includes all of the instruction that you should need to build the project. There is not a written plan the accompanies the video. Please let us know if you have questions as you build this project. Best of luck.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  10. Maria

    The blog Woodworkers GOA is literally one of the Best woodworking Communities anywhere. I read it almost every day and I’m also so grateful…:P. I recently found http://bit.ly/LargestDatabaseOfWoodworkingProjects it helped me not only found great ideas but also cool woodworking projects, I hope it helps some others! Good luck, guys!

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Daniel. I am sorry you are having trouble viewing the plan. Please make sure you are logged into your account. Also, try hard refreshing your page and using a different browser. If you are still having trouble viewing the plan, please contact our customer service team at 1-855-253-0822.
      Thanks
      Jean-Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply

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