George Vondriska provides tips on how to use your band saw as a sawmill. A WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video.
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8:38Cutting Lumber from Logs
George Vondriska provides tips on how to use a backyard saw mill to cut lumber from logs for your woodworking projects. A WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video. Saw mill provided by Logosol. For more information, visit www.logosol.us.
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How much trouble is it going to be if the logs have been drying for a year or two? I’ve got some quartered mulberry trunk sections that I’ve been meaning to convert into usable lumber, but the “insulate the workshop area” project took longer than expected so they’ve been drying for about two years now…
Hello. You might lose a few inches on each end due to cracking, but the middle of the log is not likely to be dry. I don’t think you’ll have any problems cutting slabs.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
What tooth spacing did you use?
Hello Eric,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
3 TPI. If you can find a 2 TPI blade, that works great as well.
Paul
Please let us know if you have any further questions
Sincerely,
Sarah
Wood Workers Guild of America Video Membership
one thing you failed to mention. before running lumber through the bandsaw, it would be wise to run a metal detector over it. nails suck.
Cutting log on bandsaw: what size blade is best to use?
Phil,
I like a 2 TPI x 5/8″ blade. Wider is better if your saw can handle it.
-Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
How long would you let it dry before you attempted to build with it?
Hi Luis. You’ll want to let it dry until it reaches moisture equilibrium. In MN where I live that’s usually 8-9%. Get a moisture meter, and don’t be tempted to use it until it is dry or you will likely have problems.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Turners need to use the bandsaw to make the initial cut you showed. The weakness in this set up is the need to follow a line by eye, which is not likely to produce a truly flat cut.
The jig I made solves this problem.
The base of the jig is a piece of 1/4″ plywood about the size of the bandsaw table. I added a piece of hardwood on the bottom to fit into the slot on the bandsaw table so it would run dead straight. This was done so the plywood just reached the throat of the bandsaw.
I then ran the plywood through the bandsaw about half way.
I then made some upright pieces perpendicular to the bandsaw cut, 2-3 at most, to each side of the plywood. I then cut a few (equal to the number of uprights) pieces with an angle (say 45 degrees) at one end.
To use this, I pull the plywood jig almost out past the blade, place the log up against the blade and passing through the pith, and add the front two loose pieces so the angle cradles the front of the log in place. Then I go to the back of the log draw a line perpendicular to the table up through the pith on that end, and place the back two angle pieces to cradle the back end of the log.
Now as I run this through the bandsaw, it will be just where I want it down the pith, and dead flat (provided the blade doesn’t have much drift).
When I store this jig, I place a small piece of wood with a groove equal to the thickness of the plywood, over the opening cut in the plywood, so it says flat.
(Very hard to describe this only in words — sorry)
Gordon
Turners need to use the bandsaw to make the initial cut you showed. The weakness in this set up is the need to follow a line by eye, which is not likely to produce a truly flat cut.
The jig I made solves this problem.
The base of the jig is a piece of 1/4″ plywood about the size of the bandsaw table. I added a piece of hardwood on the bottom to fit into the slot on the bandsaw table so it would run dead straight. This was done so the plywood just reached the throat of the bandsaw.
I then ran the plywood through the bandsaw about half way.
I then made some upright pieces perpendicular to the bandsaw cut, 2-3 at most, to each side of the plywood. I then cut a few (equal to the number of uprights) pieces with an angle (say 45 degrees) at one end.
To use this, I pull the plywood jig almost out past the blade, place the log up against the blade and passing through the pith, and add the front two loose pieces so the angle cradles the front of the log in place. Then I go to the back of the log draw a line perpendicular to the table up through the pith on that end, and place the back two angle pieces to cradle the back end of the log. The angled loose pieces are held in place to the upright with small clamps.
Now as I run this through the bandsaw, it will be just where I want it down the pith, and dead flat (provided the blade doesn’t have much drift).
When I store this jig, I place a small piece of wood with a groove equal to the thickness of the plywood, over the opening cut in the plywood, so it says flat.
(Very hard to describe this only in words — sorry)
Gordon