Mortising on the Drill Press: Tips and Techniques
George VondriskaMortise and tenon joinery is typically the mainstay of a woodworking shop that is focused on furniture production. This robust joint has been proven over the years to withstand the abuse that furniture can be subjected to. Over the centuries there have been many approaches to forming this joint, and in today’s modern woodshop, we have the luxury of having a great many aids to help us create mortise and tenon joinery more efficiently. One popular approach, particularly as woodworkers begin their venture into mortise and tenon joinery, is to do mortising on the drill press. Mortising on the drill press can be done with a relatively simple setup, and can add a lot of precision and time savings over chopping them manually with a mallet and chisel.
Drill press
You will need a good quality drill press with a table that is dialed in to be exactly perpendicular to the drill bit. For deeper mortises this alignment is particularly critical, so be sure to take the time to ensure that the table is adjusted perfectly square to the bit.
Fence
A good quality fence is extremely important when doing mortising on the drill press.
Forstner bit
You will not want to attempt to do mortising on the drill press using common twist bits, as this will lead to wandering of the bit, and also that style of bit is incapable of making good quality overlapping holes which is important when cutting mortises.
Mortise machine
If you get hooked on making mortise and tenon joints, you might want to explore the possibility of picking up a dedicated mortising machine, as these can add a lot of efficiency to the process. If you decide to get one, it will be important to set up the mortise properly to ensure good performance.
When it comes to doing mortises on a drill press, let's talk tooling first. Couple things are real critical here. One is, notice I have a fence on the drill press. We have to have a solid backstop so that we can put our material against it so that as we drill our holes, they're all equidistant from the face. That's really critical.
The next thing is selection of drill bit. Notice that this is a Forstner bit. Forstner bits are really the best way to go for this. And the reason is that, with this style of boring bit, especially compared to a twist bit or a brad point, these allow us to do overlapping holes. And that's critical to the work that we're gonna do here.
We're not drilling a single hole, we're gonna drill a series of holes, and the closer we can get 'em together here on the drill press, the easier the next step is gonna be. So here's what I've done so far. I've located the fence in the right spot so that the distance from the edge of my soon to be mortise to this face is just right. I've also set my depth stop so that it's gonna control the depth of drilling. Next step, start punching holes.
And what I like to do is start by defining the top and the bottom of the mortise. I've got my layout lines. Here's the top of the mortise. Bottom of the mortise. Now, here's where that overlapping business comes into play.
What I would like to do is move this over, keeping it tight against the fence, and get the center point of that Forstner bit right past the edge of that hole, as close as I can to that edge, then drill the next one. Repeat, repeat, repeat, all the way down. That one was perfect. Now, we're not done yet. Next thing we wanna do is get these high spots outta the way.
And we're gonna do that by skinning down through 'em with the circumference of the cutter here. Now, things are much better, but what we've really done is just made the high spots a little bit smaller. So we're just gonna repeat this process. At this point, I'm just gonna plunge, plunge, plunge, plunge, moving pretty fast, just working to get as many high spots outta there as I can. Notice I'm moving, I'm jogging over in really, really tiny increments at this point.
That ain't bad. Next step, we're gonna take this work to the bench. Well, here's the finesse part of what we need to do now, and that's, we need to get the remaining high spots outta here. For the strength of a mortise and tenon, we rely on the sides of the mortise meeting the sides of the tenon. So here's what I'm doing.
I'm running the chisel this way, doing a little slicing action, running it this way. I can feel it kinda bouncing high spot to high spot. So I pull it against those high spots, skin 'em down, pull against the high spots, skin 'em down. Now, one of the things you never wanna do with a chisel is pry. So, good, sharp chisel.
Let the chisel do the work. And just keep working on eliminating those high spots. Now, sequence of events, whether it's drill press or any other tool, you always make the mortise first then go back and make the tenons to fit. In regard to these rounded corners here, my choice is, I leave those rounded, and then on the tenon, I round the outside corners of the tenon as well to match. I find that's way easier to do than trying to get a chisel in here and square these to then match a square tenon I'm gonna make later.
So this one, with that a little bit of work I just did is about done. So it doesn't take much. If you do a good job on the drill press, it doesn't take much to come back here to the bench and clean this up. There. That one's all set.
So this provides a good, effective way to cut mortises using just a Forester bit and a fence on the drill press.
I'd like to know how to make a thru mortice ... in other words a mortice that goes all the way thru the piece? Will I use the same methods or will I have to use a router or some other method?