George and Jimmy's Glue Tips
George VondriskaDescription
Filling voids
CA (cyanoacrylate) glue is great for filling voids. Mix it with sawdust from the board you’re working on to get a really good color match.
Trim your brush
When you want to make it easier to get glue into a tight spot, like a mortise, spend a little time trimming the glue brush with a pair of scissors to make the tip more defined. This makes it easier to get in the mortise.
Pre-paint
If you paint MDF you’ll notice that the edges of the MDF soak up a lot of paint. Get a more uniform finish by pre-painting the edges with yellow glue.
Spread glue with threads
When you’re trying to get glue spread over a wide area use a piece of threaded rod like a mastic knife to spread the glue uniformly.
Make your own dough
Mix sawdust from the project with yellow glue to make a ball of putty you can press into the recess. This creates a thicker bodied putting than CA glue, so works on vertical surfaces.
More tack time
When you have complicated glue ups you can get yourself more working time by using Extend Glue. This product gives you more time to get it together.
And…
Tips about spreading glue, making long boards out of short boards, what’s the deal with hide glue, and a bunch of other glue tips.
WWGOA has lots more gluing and clamping tips for you.
More info
For more information about Titebond glues visit the company’s website or call (800) 877-4583.
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17 Responses to “George and Jimmy's Glue Tips”
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Good tips guys I enjoyed it
thank you for these tips
Good, useful tips here for using the most common adhesives in woodworking. I was a little surprised there was no discussion on epoxy. Perhaps that's covered in a separate video? One helpful tip to add, if I may, would be how to clean up the nozzles and micro-tips after using CA. The way I do it is to soak the nozzles and tips in a small jar of Acetone for 30 minutes, rinse thoroughly with cold water and let air dry completely before reusing. I rarely throw away the micro-tips, and will clean and reuse them, clipping off the ends incrementally and replacing only when the opening becomes too big to deliver a controlled flow of a minimal amount of adhesive to the workpiece. I am a luthier by profession (now retired), and a woodworker by proxy. But my depth is in the lutherie arts. CA is my go-to adhesive for installing fret wires and also for drop-fill repairs, and most crack repairs. I just joined the WWGOA this month (Jan/23) and I'm excited to have a great source to learn more about woodworking in general. As I see it, the more I know about wood and how it works the better I'll be in my own niche as a luthier. And who knows? While I'm still making, modding, and repairing guitars "for fun" in my home shop, maybe I'll make some fine furniture too. Win, win!
Thanks guys for the awesome tips. When I run out of Gorilla Wood glue I will be changing. I’m new to woodworking and need to learn everything. So far I’m sticking with scrolling, but when I unbury my dads tools this summer I want to learn how to use them. His poor garage got filled up with everything. My mom went blind, he got s now bed bound and my daughter moved in so I can’t get to most of his saws. I bought my own scroll saws though so I’m doing that now Thanks again looking forward to more great tips
CA or expoxy resin more durable for filing knots?
Thank you for the very helpful hints on gluing. NOT spreading flat the the squeeze out glue bubbles with your finger is probably the most important time saver I saw. Don't ask me what possesses people to spread those out with their finger; it must be physiologically satisfying or something, because I catch myself doing it again from time to time.
Titebond III will stain your clothes, Titebond II will wash out of your clothes
Any of these glue good for open wallpaper seams that opened
While I have spread a lot of glue, I learned some new things. Thanks for a well done video.
I'm a micaniq