Woodworking Blog Posts, Articles & Videos to Build Your Skills

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  • Making Striped Turning Blanks

    If you enjoy woodturning, you surely spend some time preparing turning blanks. Sometimes it’s nice to work with thick stock and simply cut it to the dimensions that you need. But other times, you might not have thick enough stock, or perhaps you just want to incorporate some different colors into your project to enhance

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  • Sign Painting: Filling in the Letters

    Making signs is one of those activities that capture the imagination of just about every woodworker at some point. The ability to make custom signs for yourself, a customer, or a friend is a neat skill to have in your arsenal. When you want to make signs, it will be important to hone your CNC,

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  • Setting Inset Drawer Fronts

    When it comes to drawer styles on cabinets and furniture, everyone seems to love the look of inset drawer fronts. It’s a custom look that suggests that the piece was hand crafted rather than mass produced. While they can look beautiful if they are done properly, they can also look lousy if they are not

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  • Double-sided Sign on a CNC

    One of the great things you can do on a CNC router is a double-sided sign. There are some key points to making this work, and work correctly. – Controlling depth of cut so you don’t cut through when you cut both faces – Controlling the model position in the project when you’re using 3D

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  • All You Need to Know About Wood Resin

    Boy, there are A LOT of resin products available in the marketplace, and they’re not inexpensive. Just like you want to choose the right tool for your woodworking tasks, you also want to choose the right resin for your resin work. The right product for a resin table isn’t necessarily right for other wood resin

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  • Build a Side Table

    Looking for a great project that you can put together in no time? In this free video lesson, we teach you step by step how to build a side table. The joinery is simple, with screw pockets holding everything together. Getting Started: How to Build a Side Table Prep your material by jointing straight edges

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  • ISOtunes Pro Model

    When I come across a product that I REALLY like, I enjoy spreading the word and letting friends of mine, like you, know about it. The ISOtunes line of products is a great example of that. I’ve been wearing the ISOtunes Pro model for years. The array of hearing protection products available is amazing, and

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  • Diablo Steel Demon Circular Saw Blade Review

    Wow!! That’s my very understated reaction to the Freud Steel Demon circular saw blade. I ran across this blade while shopping for circular saw blades at a home center, and was amazed to see that it’s capable of cutting mild steel up to ¼” thick. No way!! I figured it’s time for a circular saw

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  • Bridge City Tool Works Block and Bench Plane

    There are plenty of times when using a hand tool, specifically a block plane or bench plane, makes more sense than using a corded tool. Why a hand plane? Large pieces. Yeah, you might own a planer or drum sander, but will the piece you’re working on fit through the machine? When it comes to

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  • Installing Drawer Slides: Drawer Box Components

    Once you know how to make cabinet drawers, you will want to understand the process of installing drawer slides. First comes the part of installing drawer slides that involves attaching them to the sides of your cabinet’s carcase, and that is covered in a separate video. The next step, which we cover here, is where

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Discussion
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62 Responses to “Woodworking Blog Posts, Articles & Videos to Build Your Skills”
  1. Steve

    Not a comment, but a question- Have you ever used pear wood for a project? What are its properties, and does it have a nice grain pattern? What would be a recommended finish? Obviously, it would need to be a small project (bandsaw box, jewelry box, etc.) because there’s not much usable wood in most pear trees that I’ve seen. Thanks for any info you might pass along.

    Reply
    • John Shumake

      I have not used pear, but I have used plum and apple. The plum is a very pleasant brown with great grain. The apple I got is white like maple and the center is a light brown. I also have some spalted apple. I got my apple from one of the local orchards and the plum from a neighbor who cut down a couple of trees. I cut the into boards and stored them in the basement for about a year with a fan blowing on them. The plum tested at 12%. Both work well with simple tools. The plum was finished with poly and is FABULOUS looking, gets a lot of comment.

      Reply
    • Gary Chrysler

      Pear is great for carving. I’ve never cut it into lumber. It tends to darken to a light carmel over time. Not nearly as dramatic as cherry.

      Reply
  2. david

    if I was to cut a tree down,& wanted to use it for flooring. How long should it dry? Also could take a branch and cut 1/2 or3/4 inch slices of the branch and use it as flooring. thanks

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi David. You should get a good moisture meter and be sure that it is dry to the point of stabilization. In my shop in MN that typically means 8-10% depending on the time of year and the conditions. You don’t want to install flooring that hasn’t fully dried or you could experience problems. I would not recommend using limb wood for lumber since it is under stress and notoriously unstable. I would use only the trunk wood.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA

      Reply
      • Doug Houser

        In my area. I have alot walnut and almond trees. When the farmers clear their fields. Their just burn them. I would like to try and get some. For small projects. Good or bad idea.

        Reply
        • Customer Service

          Hi Doug. If you can get your hands on some walnut for free or cheap, I don’t see any downside to that.
          Thanks
          Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

          Reply
  3. Des Miscamble

    interesting- but how about skills regarding Scroll Saws? I have a Baumr-AG scroll saw ss16 arriving very soon – i have some experience

    Reply
  4. Kurt

    What product would you recommend to keep bark on a slab of wood before I use it for a cnc project.Then to seal it after it is done
    .

    Reply
  5. TOM TESS

    Question! I’ve been ask to make a pontoon boat table top, something that sports grain and some color. Teak is very expensive. How about some alternative suggestions!

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Tom. I would consider white oak as an economical alternative.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA

      Reply
  6. careyrmitchell

    Re the high top table using newel posts for legs. I made a number of plant stands and small side tables for the deck using stair spindles. I picked up several dozen nice spindles as closeouts for $.25 each. I flipped them upside down, cut off the square part that would have been at the top and had table legs. Simple mortises and tenoned aprons and a top – some nice small tables for about $2 each. These made great gifts with little effort or cost.

    Reply
  7. jeffhanson66

    I’m in the process of setting up my shop and am currently considering adding a bench top jointer and planer and would appreciate any expert recommendations regarding these two tools. Any advice to help decide between spiral cutters versus straight blades would help.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello. These are both game changing tools that really expand your capabilities. I’m a big fan of portable planers and I think that they are a perfect fit for a hobbyist or small pro shop. My top pic is this one: https://amzn.to/2N035g0
      If you want to save a little money, my second choice would be this one: https://amzn.to/2OaCiSR
      I’m less enthusiastic about portable jointers, but I have owned one and they can be reasonably effective for smaller projects. The downsides are the short beds, loudness, and lightweight. The one that I owned was this one: http://amzn.to/2sEbMb0
      It has plenty of power. A bigger machine would be better, but if you are tight on space these are a good option.
      Spiral vs. Straight knives. I wrote an article on this several years back. https://www.wwgoa.com/article/spiral-cutterheads-for-the-jointer-worth-the-upgrade-price/
      I have spiral cutterheads in both my jointer and planer and love them. I get great cut quality on even highly figured wood. Having said that, I would rather have a good jointer with straight knives than a marginal jointer with a spiral cutterhead. Same with a planer. For me, its all about tool quality, more so than which knives are used. But, if you can find a good deal on spiral cutters, by all means do it; they are awesome.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA

      Reply
      • jeffhanson66

        Thank you Paul. I have noticed in my research of bench top planers your recommendation comes up number one very often and I think I will go with that model. Also I just found a great source for rough sawn lumber, much red oak and walnut, and I think I will want a bigger jointer. Plus I believe I can make the necessary room for a floor standing jointer and have considered both Jet and Powermatic 6 inch models with straight knives and much longer tables. Both seem to be highly rated. During my research I ran across a forum talking about these two brands and many said they would go with Grizzly and possibly the 8 inch model for the price and capability, but I don’t think I want to deal with the power requirements for the 8 inch model. Right now I’m leaning towards the Powermatic 54A both because it’s the one George uses on the jointer and planer class dvd and because of what I have read about it. Do you lean stronger towards any of these three brands?

        Reply
        • Customer Service

          Hello. The PM54A is an incredible machine. I had a Jet 6″ jointer for a decade or so, and absolutely loved that as well.
          I have a Grizzly 8″ jointer and I’d say it is pretty decent. I like the Jet much better, and the Powermatic is even a bit nicer yet.
          If you have space and budget for an 8″ jointer, you will never regret it. It’s amazing how much rough lumber that I buy that will fit on an 8″ jointer but not on a 6″ jointer. If I had the space I’d go to a 12″ jointer, but an 8″ serves me pretty well. When I started to exclusively use rough cut lumber and had to face joint everything, I quickly felt like I had outgrown my 6″ jointer. Learn from my mistakes: If you buy it now, you won’t have to upgrade later, and it will cost you less in the long run. 🙂 I also like parallelogram jointers quite a bit and I feel that they are generally worth the additional cost. If you ever have to true up a sagging bed you’ll know what I’m talking about.
          This one would be the ideal jointer IMO: https://amzn.to/2UXel0X
          Or, you could buy it without the helical head and still have an outstanding jointer https://amzn.to/2X5ueUT
          Thanks
          Paul-WWGOA

          Reply
  8. abdiqadir ahmed xussen

    What you thought to do practicality and works in front of your heart producer’s will appear to have the winner’s way

    Reply
  9. JADA

    Enjoying all the videos, being a new woodworker I trying to figure out how to determine how many pins and tails to cut depending on width of the board. Is there a SIMPLE formula, one that could be used no matter size of board?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Jada,

      There’s not a formula that I’m aware of. You want at least three pins, and from there it comes down to what size DTs you want to cut. It becomes more of an aesthetic decision rather than one of joint strength.

      Thanks,

      Paul
      WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
  10. rich.casagrande

    Does anyone have a y suggestions on how to clean up tear out on a walnut cookie slab? Belt sander?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Rich. Belt sander should work the best for this. ROS might work ok if it isn’t too deep.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  11. jeffhanson66

    My wife just got a Cricut Maker to start making signs and I am wondering if I can finish a piece of wood with tongue oil or some other finish and then to help the paint stick, spray it with dewaxed shellac before painting on the letters. Or would it be better to paint on the letters before applying the other finish?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello. If you want to paint the sign I would suggest applying primer then paint. No need for shellac or tongue oil prior to painting. That said, dewaxed shellac is a good sealer, and you could use that over other finishes to create a suitable painting surface if you want.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  12. Serita Alaelua

    Do you guys or can u guys make videos step by step on making a billiard pool table? The common size to begin with.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Serita. We do not have a video on this, but man, what a cool project. Good luck!
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  13. georgeh

    I just bought a brand new Jet 6″ Jointer. I did all the cleaning and protective coatings as the manufacturer instructed. Everything was fine until I started jointing pressure treated wood. Everytime a run PT wood through the jointer it starts to rust and I have to clean it and coat it again as soon as I finish. Do you have any suggestions what I could use to protect my new jointer from pressure treated wood?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi George. That stuff is really wet, and is notorious for causing rust on cast iron tools. Your best bet is to apply a good sealant like this one regularly: https://www.wwgoa.com/product/topsaver-kit-pack/ and clean the chips off the table top as soon as you are done using the machine.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  14. Mick

    Silly question time! Invariably,I guess,my bandsaw blade will go blunt.Can the blade be sharpened,or do I need to buy another one?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Mick. It is possible to sharpen them, but with a standard high speed steel blade I generally just toss them out when dull and buy a new one. If you use a good quality blade such as a Timberwolf, the blade should last a long time with typical hobbyist use.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  15. ROBERT

    Saw the video on the pocket screw joint to glue or not to glue. With glue was stronger and the reason why could be in your statement you said the glue does soak into the end grain and not bond, but it does soak into the end grain therefore making the wood stronger against the screws pulling through the wood. The glue bonds the fibers in the wood so the screws do not pull through as easy.

    Reply
  16. Simon Redmond

    Why can I not see the “Fee Videos” I get a block that offers me some crappy game to play!?
    Not useful! I am logged in so why?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Dear Simon,

      Thank you for contacting us. Our Free videos have ads at the beginning of them that last anywhere from 15 – 30 seconds. You will have to watch the ad before watching the video. I apologize for any inconveniences.

      If you have any other questions or concerns, please contact us at 1-855-253-0822 or chat us on our website.

      Sincerely,

      Taylar
      Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
  17. Roger

    I just watched your video on how to have more accuracy on your scroll saw. I use all three items that you suggested with the addition of a piece of cardboard I cut to cover the top part of the magnifier. This blocks the view of the arm moving rapidly up and down but does not interfere with the view of the blade. I find this much easier on the eyes. Thanks for your great videos.

    Reply
  18. royark

    Question: I am using a Rigid 5.25HP shop vac with a Dust Deputy for dust collection in my shop. Where may I purchase a hand held controller and a controlled electrical outlet that will remotely control my dust collector?

    Reply
  19. G. Delmotte

    I used pine for outdoor benches. My problem is it bleeds a black stain through paint / sealer. How can I stop it or prevent it from happening again. What would be an alternitive mat’l.?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello. That sounds nasty. I’m not sure what would be doing that, but I’d let them sit until next year, and hopefully stabilize. Then I’d hit them with 2 coats of this stuff https://amzn.to/2LjAJ2C , then apply your topcoat paint again.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  20. JOHN

    I’ve seen information on how to saw off box lids with a tablesaw. Can’t a bandsaw do the job with a single cut?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi John. Yes it can. Sometimes people have problems doing this with a bandsaw due to wavy cuts, etc., but if your bandsaw has the capacity and is up to the task that’s a great way to go.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  21. John Ward

    I am looking to put a epoxy top coat to my bench and was hoping you could do a video show the proper way to apply the epoxy coat

    Reply
  22. Jim McCourt

    I have a paint problem/question. Using glued up hard maple panels for doors. Used a water base primer and top coat. 12 hours after applying top coat I noticed all of the panel joints were pronounced. Will an oil based primer stop this? I still want to use a latex top coat.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Jim. That’s a great question. I haven’t come across this problem before, and I’m not sure whether an oil based primer will help. For what it’s worth, my guess is that it wouldn’t make any difference, but it is probably worth an experiment. I’m not sure what is causing this problem, so it’s hard to diagnose. Seems like it would be some moisture imbalance across the planks, or perhaps a different grain orientation that allow differing rates of moisture absorption.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi David. Thanks for your inquiry. That is not something that we have plans for. Best of luck with your project.
      Cheers,
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  23. Jeff Hanson

    I’m considering upgrading my current job site table saw to a much more capable hybrid or cabinet saw. I would like to be able to run on a 110 outlet. What would be a good choice? Also I’ve recently learned about the ambassador line by Harvey through WWGOA and it seems like this is a lot of saw for the money. I’m thinking of spending $1000 – $2000 and I would appreciate your expert opinion. Thanks.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Jeff. Harvey saws look impressive, like a lot of saw for the money as you say, but I haven’t had a chance to use one myself so I don’t have any experiential guidance to offer. This is out of the price range that you indicated, but if you’re looking at high quality 110V saws, I’d suggest taking a look at this one: https://amzn.to/34eFv84 as it is a fantastic tool.
      In your price range I would also suggest taking a look at this one: https://amzn.to/344dJL7 and also this brand new model from Laguna, which I’ve looked at but haven’t used yet: F1 Fusion Tablesaw | Classic Machinery | Laguna Tools
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  24. jeffhanson66

    Thanks for the advice on table saws. I’m wondering what your opinion is on cast iron trunnions vs aluminum? Obviously the weight is different but are there any performance or longevity reasons to buy cast iron over aluminum? As always thank you for your expert opinion.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      In addition to the weight, cast iron is also a great material for deadening vibration, so it creates a more smoother running saw. It seems like the defacto standard for production table saws. That said, if the quality looks good on a saw that uses an aluminum trunion, I wouldn’t rule it out solely for that reason.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  25. Danny Payne

    I’ve acquired a large amount of walnut lumber that is slightly burned. Can I run it through my planner? Appreciate the insights.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Danny,

      Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in woodworking. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.

      If you are interested in becoming a member to Woodworkers Guild of America, please click on the special offer below:

      https://go.wwgoa.com/c20073

      If you have any further questions on becoming a member, please chat, email, or contact Customer Service at 1-855-253-0822.

      We greatly appreciate your business!
      Sincerely,

      Joan
      Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
  26. Dennis

    Not a comment but a question. How come when I turn objects they end up cracking? Am I doing something wrong? I have used pine 4×4’s and 6×6. So far I turn them, sand and finish, and polycoat them and in a couple days they seem to crack. The wood is in my shop and not out in the elements. Why does it still crack?

    Thanks for your help,

    Dennis B

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Dennis,

      If you are turning green wood, sometimes they will crack as they dry. But given that you are turning wood that is already dry, it is a bit of a mystery. The only time that I’ve seen cracks form on wood that was already dry was when it was sanded for a long time up to a high grit which generated a lot of heat. But in that situation the cracks occurred as the bowl was still on the lathe.
      My hunch is that there are minor cracks that are either present in the wood when you turn it, or that occur during the sanding process, and they open up more as the wood acclimates to its new shape. I haven’t turned much with construction lumber, so I don’t have much direct experience with this type of material. Perhaps switch to hardwoods to see if you still encounter this problem.

      -Paul
      Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  27. Ron Peterson

    I have a question. I used to use a 3M abrasive that was ultra flexible. In fact, it was called Pro grade Ultra Flexible sanding sheets. The store I got them at in three grades (100 or 150 grit, 220 grit, and 320 grit) no longer carries them and 3M doesn’t seem to make it any more. Is anyone familiar with this product and do you have a recommendation for a substitute? Thanks.

    Ron Peterson

    Reply