Woodworking Blog Posts, Articles & Videos to Build Your Skills

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  • How to Safely Rip a Cylinder in Two

    If you need to rip a cylinder in half or quarters for a project, watch this video first. It can be a very dangerous activity if you do not take the necessary precautions. If you attempt to free-hand this cut on a table saw, the cylinder will inevitably roll slightly, creating a binding condition at

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  • Using Fence Support on Thin Material

    When you’re using tools like a biscuit joiner, Festool Domino or dowel machine, they all have a commonality. They each have a fence that registers the tool on your work. We rely on the fence not only for registration, but also to keep the machine at the correct angle relative to the work. This becomes

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  • Gluing Veneer: No Paper Back

    A special cut of veneer can turn a project from ordinary to extraordinary, but you get the cool look that you are after, you will have to learn how to attach veneer to a substrate. Many woodworkers are intimidating by the idea of gluing veneer themselves. They have concerns that special tools and glues will

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  • Pocket Hole Joints: Is Glue Necessary?

    There are a handful of topics and questions that pop up pretty regularly in the woodworking world. Most commonly: should I or shouldn’t I add glue to pocket hole joints? If you ask a room full of woodworkers you’ll probably get answers that fall on both sides of the fence. We decided to do a

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  • Finishing 2 Faces Made Easy

    When it comes to finishing projects, there can be challenges. Let’s do everything we can to eliminate challenges, and make finishing as simple as possible. Here’s a trick that will help your finishing move along a little faster; finishing both faces of a project in one go. I have to say that for a lot

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  • How to Do an Easy Miter Glue Up

    If you want to know how to make strong mitered corners, it’s partially about cutting technique, but even more about assembly technique. A miter glue up can be a daunting task, even to an expert woodworker. The joints can seem to have a mind of their own when you’re doing a miter glue up, when

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  • How to Save Your Wood Shavings

    Most of the time, woodworkers are looking for ways to get rid of the shavings and sawdust from their projects. But every once in a while, when there’s something special about the shavings, you may want to collect and save the sawdust. Here’s a great trick that makes it super simple to grab that cool

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  • How to Remove CNC Tabs

    When you want to automate production and bring some precision to a project, nothing beats CNC technology. The world of CNC is exploding these days in a very positive way to bring a spectrum of innovative and economical solutions to production shops as well as hobbyists. While CNC routers can automate many of the tasks

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  • Choosing a Router Base: Flat vs Round Side

    There are lots of aspects of woodworking that are intuitive. Some, not so much. This is an example of not so much. Routers and Fences One way to guide a router through a cut is to attach a fence to the router, allowing the fence to ride along the edge of your work. An alternative

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  • Allowing for Router Bit Diameter on a CNC Machine

    CNC technology can add a lot of value to a woodworking shop in terms of precision, repeatability, efficiency and quality. Once you have an overview of a CNC machine, you will begin to understand the precision in place throughout the system. This is one of those “garbage in, garbage out” scenarios in which the CNC

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Discussion
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20 Responses to “Woodworking Blog Posts, Articles & Videos to Build Your Skills”
  1. Steve

    Not a comment, but a question- Have you ever used pear wood for a project? What are its properties, and does it have a nice grain pattern? What would be a recommended finish? Obviously, it would need to be a small project (bandsaw box, jewelry box, etc.) because there’s not much usable wood in most pear trees that I’ve seen. Thanks for any info you might pass along.

    Reply
    • John Shumake

      I have not used pear, but I have used plum and apple. The plum is a very pleasant brown with great grain. The apple I got is white like maple and the center is a light brown. I also have some spalted apple. I got my apple from one of the local orchards and the plum from a neighbor who cut down a couple of trees. I cut the into boards and stored them in the basement for about a year with a fan blowing on them. The plum tested at 12%. Both work well with simple tools. The plum was finished with poly and is FABULOUS looking, gets a lot of comment.

      Reply
  2. david

    if I was to cut a tree down,& wanted to use it for flooring. How long should it dry? Also could take a branch and cut 1/2 or3/4 inch slices of the branch and use it as flooring. thanks

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi David. You should get a good moisture meter and be sure that it is dry to the point of stabilization. In my shop in MN that typically means 8-10% depending on the time of year and the conditions. You don’t want to install flooring that hasn’t fully dried or you could experience problems. I would not recommend using limb wood for lumber since it is under stress and notoriously unstable. I would use only the trunk wood.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA

      Reply
  3. Des Miscamble

    interesting- but how about skills regarding Scroll Saws? I have a Baumr-AG scroll saw ss16 arriving very soon – i have some experience

    Reply
  4. Kurt

    What product would you recommend to keep bark on a slab of wood before I use it for a cnc project.Then to seal it after it is done
    .

    Reply
  5. TOM TESS

    Question! I’ve been ask to make a pontoon boat table top, something that sports grain and some color. Teak is very expensive. How about some alternative suggestions!

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Tom. I would consider white oak as an economical alternative.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA

      Reply
  6. careyrmitchell

    Re the high top table using newel posts for legs. I made a number of plant stands and small side tables for the deck using stair spindles. I picked up several dozen nice spindles as closeouts for $.25 each. I flipped them upside down, cut off the square part that would have been at the top and had table legs. Simple mortises and tenoned aprons and a top – some nice small tables for about $2 each. These made great gifts with little effort or cost.

    Reply
  7. jeffhanson66

    I’m in the process of setting up my shop and am currently considering adding a bench top jointer and planer and would appreciate any expert recommendations regarding these two tools. Any advice to help decide between spiral cutters versus straight blades would help.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello. These are both game changing tools that really expand your capabilities. I’m a big fan of portable planers and I think that they are a perfect fit for a hobbyist or small pro shop. My top pic is this one: https://amzn.to/2N035g0
      If you want to save a little money, my second choice would be this one: https://amzn.to/2OaCiSR
      I’m less enthusiastic about portable jointers, but I have owned one and they can be reasonably effective for smaller projects. The downsides are the short beds, loudness, and lightweight. The one that I owned was this one: http://amzn.to/2sEbMb0
      It has plenty of power. A bigger machine would be better, but if you are tight on space these are a good option.
      Spiral vs. Straight knives. I wrote an article on this several years back. https://www.wwgoa.com/article/spiral-cutterheads-for-the-jointer-worth-the-upgrade-price/
      I have spiral cutterheads in both my jointer and planer and love them. I get great cut quality on even highly figured wood. Having said that, I would rather have a good jointer with straight knives than a marginal jointer with a spiral cutterhead. Same with a planer. For me, its all about tool quality, more so than which knives are used. But, if you can find a good deal on spiral cutters, by all means do it; they are awesome.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA

      Reply
      • jeffhanson66

        Thank you Paul. I have noticed in my research of bench top planers your recommendation comes up number one very often and I think I will go with that model. Also I just found a great source for rough sawn lumber, much red oak and walnut, and I think I will want a bigger jointer. Plus I believe I can make the necessary room for a floor standing jointer and have considered both Jet and Powermatic 6 inch models with straight knives and much longer tables. Both seem to be highly rated. During my research I ran across a forum talking about these two brands and many said they would go with Grizzly and possibly the 8 inch model for the price and capability, but I don’t think I want to deal with the power requirements for the 8 inch model. Right now I’m leaning towards the Powermatic 54A both because it’s the one George uses on the jointer and planer class dvd and because of what I have read about it. Do you lean stronger towards any of these three brands?

        Reply
        • Customer Service

          Hello. The PM54A is an incredible machine. I had a Jet 6″ jointer for a decade or so, and absolutely loved that as well.
          I have a Grizzly 8″ jointer and I’d say it is pretty decent. I like the Jet much better, and the Powermatic is even a bit nicer yet.
          If you have space and budget for an 8″ jointer, you will never regret it. It’s amazing how much rough lumber that I buy that will fit on an 8″ jointer but not on a 6″ jointer. If I had the space I’d go to a 12″ jointer, but an 8″ serves me pretty well. When I started to exclusively use rough cut lumber and had to face joint everything, I quickly felt like I had outgrown my 6″ jointer. Learn from my mistakes: If you buy it now, you won’t have to upgrade later, and it will cost you less in the long run. 🙂 I also like parallelogram jointers quite a bit and I feel that they are generally worth the additional cost. If you ever have to true up a sagging bed you’ll know what I’m talking about.
          This one would be the ideal jointer IMO: https://amzn.to/2UXel0X
          Or, you could buy it without the helical head and still have an outstanding jointer https://amzn.to/2X5ueUT
          Thanks
          Paul-WWGOA

          Reply
  8. abdiqadir ahmed xussen

    What you thought to do practicality and works in front of your heart producer’s will appear to have the winner’s way

    Reply
  9. JADA

    Enjoying all the videos, being a new woodworker I trying to figure out how to determine how many pins and tails to cut depending on width of the board. Is there a SIMPLE formula, one that could be used no matter size of board?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Jada,

      There’s not a formula that I’m aware of. You want at least three pins, and from there it comes down to what size DTs you want to cut. It becomes more of an aesthetic decision rather than one of joint strength.

      Thanks,

      Paul
      WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply