WWGOA LIVE! December 2018

This tired tomorrow- I think we're ready, Jenny. Sam says we're going live. Jenny, on the other side of the camera, just gave me the big thumbs up. So it must be true 'cause it's on the internet. Hey folks, how you doing?

Happy December 13th, and hang on, let me do a fact check here from Sam. Oh, she says, "You're live now." So here we are it must be true. Happy December 13th, hope everybody's busy turning their shops into Santa's workshop and getting ready for Christmas. I have some gifts in preparation but I'm not gonna show you because you never know when the recipients might be watching the live and then the cat would be out of the bag. So let's jump right in here 'cause there are a bunch of questions already queued up.

I will, I'm gonna apologize in advance. I'm mostly over a cold but my voice is still a little scratchy. And we did a Facebook live today in about 10 minutes in my throat was getting a little hinky. So I did bring some throat lozenges and I have a Gatorade ready. So hopefully I can get through an hour of this.

So DiggingBone says, and he was early, he posted his question at 7:30 this morning, or she. "I have some six-by-six beams of reclaimed barn wood, "believed to be hickory. "I've cut three pieces to 18 inches." So six by six by 18. "I want to cut them to 120... Degrees, I'm guessing.

"I want to cut them to 120 degrees and join them. "Looking for the best way to join these. "Biscuits, tongue and groove, or? "Lamp will be a 12-inch triangle "mounted on a base of black walnut. "What's the best way to join the three pieces?" Well, I am not crystal clear on what's going on here.

So six-by-sixes, six by six by 18, I need a visual. Six by six, by 18... At 120 degrees. So do you mean then a 12-inch triangle. I mean, if by rip, if cut them at 120 degrees, you mean, oh, I get it, nevermind.

I'm over-complicating this in my head. I think. All right. So this is the joint we're talking about here. I think tongue and groove would be way more way overkill for what you're doing there.

I think in all honesty, they're so big. You've got so much surface area there. If all you did is glue those corners together you'd be fine. So for instance, when I make a flag box and it's got those real steep angles on the corner, I just glue those, then they're fine. What I would do, what I would recommend, Jenny, could you grab, I think there's a Quick & Thick bottle over there.

So I'll talk about a glue recommendation quick. If you want to give it a little reinforcement, biscuits would be fine. They buy you some registration which would help put it together. And they would also, it's a loose tenon, so they would, oh geeze, I can't believe I missed that. I'm typically a pretty good catch.

On live TV. On live internet. Biscuits would reinforce it and give you some alignment as well. Either way I've been using this Titebond Quick & Thick more and more. So one of the benefits to it is, oddly enough, it's a thicker glue than just standard yellow glue.

So when you're doing a, when you're doing an end grain application, it's gonna not soak in so much. That's part of the problem with end grain looks, is the end grain is like a bunch of soda straws and it just pulls the glue up into the wood. That Quick & Thick would be a good, great glue for this application. But yeah, I think if I'm understanding correctly what you're doing here, biscuits, if you want, but just a simple glue-up would be fine. John says, "Can CA glues be tinted?

"Thinking of filling small cracks "where wood filler doesn't want to cooperate." I used, FastCap has a CA glue that they make and they sell it in a kit with a variety of powders. I don't know what the powders are, But the whole premise with that was if you needed to dye the glue, you can mix the powder in with it in order to color it. I sure think that you could take standard aniline dye. I've used aniline dye in epoxy, I've used it in finishes. It's kind of the miracle drug that works, or the wonder drug that works wonders.

Aniline dye is amazing. I would sure think you could put aniline dye into CA glue and get a variety of colors. If there is any question in your brain about doing it, the experts would be like the folks at Titebond. You could call their 800 number and ask them this question. But I pretty firmly believe you'd be okay with doing it.

Sean says, Shane says, "Would you recommend submerging "and soaking cutting boards in mineral oil? "If so, how long would you let them soak? "And can I collect and reuse the leftover mineral oil?" I don't think you need to go that far. I've made a lot of cutting boards and I finished, I think all of them, with mineral oil. And I just put, I put them up on painter's pyramids and then I do one side and basically I apply it until it won't take any more, until no more mineral oil will soak in at that saturation point.

Then I wipe the excess off. I flip it over and I do the other side. I would say my only exception to that was one time, It wasn't a cutting board, it was trivets, and it was trivets I made on the CNC. So they had grooves this way, grooves this way, it was a pretty complicated finishing thing. So in that case, I got a tinfoil pan from Walmart, put a little oil in the bottom of it, put the trivet in it and let it soak.

But that was only because, it wasn't for an absorption thing. It's just because getting finished in all those nooks and crannies otherwise would have been a pain. So you could soak them if you want to. But I don't think you need to. I would just surface apply from one face until a one absorb anymore.

Wipe off the excess, flip it over, surface apply from the other face. You'll be okey-dokey. Larry says, "When building jigs, "shooting boards, crosscut sleds, "or even a drill press table, "what do you recommend for a finish?" I don't, let's see, those three items. Let's go, let's pivot this way, Jenny, toward the table saw and I'll get a couple visual aids. So, a couple things.

Here's a table saw jig that I use for cutting miters. So this I've made and this is kinda a common material for me to make jigs out of, this is melamine. Melamine is generally available at home centers. It's a particle board core and then there's a plasticized coding on each face. So in the world of finishing, this is pretty finished already.

I like it because if it's a sled, like this one is, it's gonna go on the table saw, the plasticized coding makes it really, really slick. So that's an answer, but honestly, in most cases, like, hang on. That's not what I was looking for. There it is. This is my crosscut sled, my panel sled, that goes in the miter gauge slot, that's for cutting big panels.

It's raw MDF and I just don't think, I don't see a need to finish this. I guess if you were, if you really wanted to put a finish on, then in the shooting boards we used when I taught overseas, when I taught in Africa, all of those were just raw wood, those were solid wood, not manmade materials. But we left everything raw. If you really wanted to put a finish on shop stuff, I would probably use like a Watco oil or a linseed oil. Then that way you're sealing it.

It's very easy, as they get abused, it's very easy to refresh the finish. All you have to do is wipe new stuff on. And it's pretty resilient, it's flexible. So again, in the idea of using these jigs, I think a Danish oil would be a good choice for that. But most of my stuff, it's either melamine or I just leave it raw.

Well, this would have worked out well 'cause Guest 2285, whomever that is, says, "I'd like your thoughts on a dedicated rip blade "for my table saw. "One, any disadvantage of a 30-tooth over a 40-tooth? "Two, any advantage of a flat-bottom blade "over an alternate top bevel? "Into shop furniture and like to get "into some fine furniture projects. "I already have a quality crosscut blade in my arm saw." Rick in Door County, Wisconsin.

So, couple things. This blade, this is a dedicated rip blade. And I believe this one has a 24 tooth. This, and it is a flat top grind. This one, 40-tooth alternate top bevel.

So difference between the two with the dedicated rip blade with this 24-tooth or a 30-tooth rip blade, you're gonna cut wood faster. So in my application, when I did, not that long ago, a room full of cabinets, so I was ripping miles of a face grain material, I put this blade on the saw. The reason being this blade lets me feed wood just a little bit faster than this blade. So when you're cutting miles of face grain stock, that faster feed rate pays off 'cause I'm pushing it through the saw faster. The surface finish from the alternate top bevel blade is a little bit better.

Now, the reason I didn't care is what I do is I take all of my face grain material after it's ripped and I stand it on edge and I send it through my planer, and that cleans off the saw marks. So although the ATB 40-tooth, alternate top bevel, gives me a little bit better surface finish, it's not so much better that I wouldn't have to go to my planer anyway. I'm still gonna go to the planer and clean up the 40-tooth. So, faster feed rate with the 30, better surface finish with an alternate top bevel 40. The other thing, the other benefit we get out of the 30, let me see if there's like another table saw question.

No, but let me just, you stay there. I'm just gonna grab my paper. So, the other benefit, or the other thing that he's asking about is flat top prime versus alternate top bevel. So let's just lose this. When you're buying a blade, when you're buying a table saw blade or whatever purpose you're buying it for, so FTG is that lighting is okay?

FTG, flat top grind, ATB, alternate top bevel. On this one, on the alternate top bevel, this looks like a very traditional, kind of like a handsaw blade. One tooth points to the left, one to the right, one to the left, one to the right, alternate bevels. When you cut with this one and you have, if you're doing a groove, you're gonna end up with a bottom in the groove that looks like this, it won't be flat bottom. Because of the way the teeth are shaped, there's that V in between them, so you end up with a little bit of a V left in the bottom of the groove.

With a flat top grind, you've got, oddly enough, a flat grind. So when you have a curve from a flat top grind blade, it will be flat across the bottom. When you do a groove, it'll be flat across the bottom. What's the big deal? Well, if you're using a blade to cut splines into something, when I put a spline in here, the edge of that spline is only gonna go as far as the high point in the V and then it's gonna stop.

And if you can see it from the edge, so let's say you're splining a miter for decoration or to reinforce it. A spline in a groove cut with an alternate top bevel doesn't look very good 'cause it doesn't close against the bottom. So the other time for me, when I grab this 30-tooth blade, is when I, because it's flat top grind, when I want to take advantage of the flat top grind, then I want to have that blade in the saw, so I have a nice square curve. I have a nice square bottom to my groove. Let me see if I answered all of Rick's questions.

Yeah, I think so. So general purpose blade for me, the blade that's on this table saw 90% of the time, including, there's a second one on the saw right now, is an infinity alternate top bevel 40-tooth blade. Guest 5738 is from British Columbia, that's cool. And K-M-Y, which I never know how to say that, an avid question asker, says, "Is it okay to stand to the side of the router table, "similar to a table saw pushing front to back "versus the front of the router table "pushing right to left? "I'm trying to figure out where to put my router out "at off switch so it's convenient to turn out." Convenient is good 'cause if you get into a crisis, you want to be able to shut it off easily.

So Jenny, let's, I will gaff cords for you, and let's get you to where you're maybe pointed at the router table over, yeah. The origin point of all of the power and the ethernet cable. So we're, have quite the snakes mess, perhaps not Happy? All right, on my router table, I've got the switch here on the front side. And I guess I get what you're saying, which is treat this like a table saw where you tend to be here and push or treat it this way where you tend to be here and push.

And I don't... trying to think, I think for me, it's very rare for me to stand here and push stock through. And part of it is table saw cuts are a little different than router table cuts, where that idea of getting it all the way across the table is much easier for me to do when I'm here, when I'm standing in front of it. And that includes when I making rails and styles for doors, when I'm doing raised panels, when I'm doing drawer joinery, I'm very naturally always standing in front of the table, not at the end of the table. That being the case, even if this were here, this is still in a good position for you to easily shut this off if you needed to.

So, and I'm trying to think, man, I think, and most people doing it doesn't necessarily make it right. However, I think every router table I've ever seen the switch for it has been on the front of the machine, not on the end of the machine. So I'd stick with that and I think as you use, if you haven't used your router table a lot yet, as you use it more and more, you're gonna find it's best to be here where I'm standing, rather than at the end of the table. Okay, Jenny? Motivate back and I go, I gotta grab my laptop and I will head for the workbench.

There's the hatchet-throwing target. That was a blast. All right, I need a little Gatorade or I'm gonna run out of voice. One of the things we want to do, thanks very much to Jenny for reminding me, is thank Titebond for sponsoring this and they do a great job of underwriting this event so that it can remain free for you folks to watch. So I really appreciate Titebond being as active as they are with the stuff I do with Woodworkers Guild, and it really keeps a lot of things moving forward here.

So thanks very much to Titebond. Jane says, "Hi from Reidsville, North Carolina, "too much snow," does North Carolina get snow? That's kinda, not kinda, that's news to me, I didn't know. A couple more questions from K-M-Y. "I want to make box joints with half-inch plywood.

"How fast should I set the router? "It goes from one to a six, I assume I want it fast, "with four, five," so here's the deal, four or five, six doesn't do you any good. What you need to know is RPMs you need to know RPM. So somewhere on your router, there's gonna be a plate that says how many RPM the motor's capable of going. It's probably something like 12,000 to 24,000 RPM.

So then if your dial says one, two, three, four, five, six, then one is 12,000 RPM, six is 24,000 RPM. And then you can, with the rest of the numbers, do a little bit of math and figure out, well, if I'm at four, an at about, thinking fast in my head, like 18,000 RPM, I might not have that 100% right. And then what you want is a router bit speed chart and if you go on WWGOA.com, there is, we've got a router bit speed chart. So it's not, it's not box joints. It's about the diameter of the cutter and box joints is probably a small bit, 3/8 or 1/2 inch.

So you could probably run full speed but just you need to have a router bit speed chart So then when you get to larger diameter cutters you know what to set your router at, based on RPM. AJ is watching. So AJ, a friend of mine now living in Boston, he's got the cutest granddaughter ever, Gracy. And he says, "She tried to stay awake for this "but fell asleep," can't blame her 'cause you're an hour ahead, right? So it's 8:20 in Boston.

Okay, another question from, I'm just gonna say Kimmy, unless you're a guy, I guess. Kmy, I don't know, whatever. "How long do you schedule these events? "I only find out when I get the email, "says George is coming in 30 minutes." This gizmo is the second Thursday of every month at 7:00 PM. And we try really hard to keep consistent with that so that like knowing when your favorite TV show is on, you know when this is gonna be on.

So today is the 13th. Last week was the sixth, second Thursday of the month. The exception to that will be if I am on the road someplace, sometimes I can't do it on that Thursday. There are exceptions to that. When I was helping April build her shop in Texas, that was one of these Thursdays and we just did the live event from her shop.

However, so that's the only qualifier is sometimes when I'm on the road, then there's a conflict. But otherwise second Thursday of every month, seven o'clock Central Time, be here or be square. James, "Hope your day was better than mine. "Too much snow," they got 17 inches of snow, oh my gosh. Yeah, it was a, it's been kind of, it's been pretty nice here.

26 to 30 degrees during the day, overcast. Sunday was sunny and warm, but it's been cloudy since, it feels like it could snow anytime. Jim says, "Pretty much figured out "what bandsaw configuration to buy for a resign. "Is there a particular brand "you'd recommend more than others?" Nah, you know, I haven't tool-tested bandsaws like for decades. That goes all the way back to when I was with American Woodworker Magazine.

So today, I just, unfortunately, I'm just a statistic of one. I've got, or two, I guess. I have two bandsaws in my shop. One's a Bridgewood, one's a Laguna. I'm happy with both of them.

Really, the thing to do is to look at, Wood Magazine still does a lot of tool tests. It wouldn't surprise me at all if they had one in their archive. And it's nice to see those, 'cause then generally, what they'll do is they'll pick a price point and say, "Okay, we're gonna test all the bandsaws "that cost 800 bucks. "We're gonna test all, we're gonna test all," whatever, whatever the range is. And that way you get a good objective opinion out of the magazine.

So I don't know if Pop Wood and Fine Woodworking do tool tests. We at WWGOA, we do not do side-by-side tool tests like that. Brass Ring says, "I work with maple a lot "and never could seem to fully sand out the scratches "from sanding and shaping on small contoured items. "I can sand to 600 grit "and have fine scratches show up in the final examination. "It's very frustrating.

"Is there a process to eliminate "these pesky scratch marks?" More sanding, so here's the thing that you gotta remember, is everything that we do, like the sequence of events in woodworking and cleaning stuff up is to eliminate marks left by the previous step. So we'd go back to talking about ripping face frames at the table saw, I ripped the face frame parts and they had a saw mark on the edge. Then I go to my jointer, if the board's wide enough, and I joint the edge to get out the saw marks. Or I go to my planer, then I set them through on edge to clean up, I send here on edge to clean off the saw marks. So from the planer, which took off the table saw marks, now I probably have mill marks left by the planer, then I start sanding.

I'd probably start with 120 grit. Then we use 150-grit paper to take out the marks left by the 120, 180 to take out the marks left by the 150. So when I, a couple of things, one, make sure you're not skipping a grit. You've got to go through that sequence. Two, don't get impatient.

You need to make sure that you're not going to 180 until the 150 has taken out all the 120 marks. And otherwise that rears its head when you put the finish on, which is probably what you're finding. If you're at 600 grit as a final abrasive, that's like that maple should be mirror smooth. So my guess is either you're moving a little too fast through the sanding process or you're skipping a grit someplace. A good way to check that kind of stuff is get a really good, high-powered light and then put that so it's kind of glancing across the surface, like this, and you'll be able to, you'll see things when you have the light on there, you'll see defects that you can't see when you're just, I have really good shop lights in here.

But when you do this, stuff is gonna show up on the surface that you can't otherwise see. So I would definitely try that as an experiment and see if that helps you find stuff before you move on. Charles says we're live, thank goodness. James asks, "Do you prefer pocket-hole joints "or biscuit joints?" Yes, it depends. I've built 80 bazillion face frames with pocket holes.

I've used biscuits a lot. It's just that it's different applications, different joints. I wouldn't put solid wood edge banding on plywood with screw pockets, pocket holes, but I would with biscuits. I wouldn't put biscuits in face frames 'cause they're too slow, but I would pocket holes. So it depends on the application.

And Dennis says, "Are we live yet?" When did I screw that up? Did I question the live thing too many times? Now you're making fun of me. And I'm so thin-skinned, you guys are gonna make me cry. You know how I am, I'm so sensitive.

Pat says, "I have 8/4 quarter saw," "8/4 quarter-sawn white oak, and need 6/4 final. "Would you recommend giving up the thickness to the planer "or try to resaw first to maybe 7/4 or slightly less, "and then planing the final dimensions?" Boy, quarter-sawn white oak. That's beautiful stuff. So you need to lose, you're at 8/4, you're going to 6/4, you're gonna give up a half inch. I would probably lean toward resawing off 3/8 and then surfacing to your finished dimension.

And I would find some use for that 'cause 3/8 is still a substantial enough piece of material. Even if you've got bandsaw marks on that, you plane it, now you're at a 1/4 inch. You'll find a use for that. The lid of the box, the bottom of a box, or a box itself. You could make a box out of a 1/4 inch.

And so, yeah, I'd probably lean toward resawing so that you could hold on to that material. John says, "The shop floor is rather bumpy, isn't it?" Yeah, that's when we roll across the floor, Jenny and I are cognizant. It's a little like, I don't know what, riding the subway in New York or something. We try to not roll through fire if we can wait. Franco says, "Best technique for floating shelves?" Well, first you need a magic wand from Harry Potter and then you can, oh, Jenny says that's not what they mean.

There is a, Rockler sells a very cool floating shelf device. It is, I've not used it, but friends of mine have, but I think the way it works is there's a steel plate you mount to the wall, a threaded rod or get a piece of rod threads into that plate, so the way you get your shelf to float is you drill holes in the back of the shelf, you slip them onto those rods, and you're done. I have not done a lot of floating shelves, so I'm not much of an expert in it. But I would definitely look for those Rockler floating shelf products and see if that fits your needs. Another thing I want to mention.

So one, thanks to Titebond again, dos, if you're watching on YouTube, I am reading questions that are appearing on WWGOA.com. So if you're posting questions where this is running on YouTube, I don't see them 'cause as a rule, I don't toggle back and forth between the two. It's like too many balls to keep in the air. So if you're on YouTube and you want to ask a question, go to WWGOA.com and then upper left corner it says Videos. When you click on that, you get a big menu.

It says, WWGOA Live, click on that. And then it'll say December 2018, which is now, and then you can post your questions. Charles says, "I noticed Kreg Pocket-Hole Jig on your wall. "I'm considering buying one, but lately doing my research, "I'll see more and more about "the Porter-Cable and Armor jigs. "Any thoughts on which is better?" I don't know much about the Porter-Cable jig but I did see the Armor jig at IWF in Atlanta this year, it's pretty amazing.

So I haven't touched one yet, but it's got a lot of cool stuff going on. It auto adjusts for thickness, that alone is probably worth the price of admission. I would definitely give the Armor a close look. I think it's definitely worth, it's worth a look. Seems really cool.

Eddie says, "I have red oak risers and treads "that are unfinished, what finish would you recommend "that would be durable enough "to prevent scratch marks from my two dogs?" The last time I did a floor, which was a long time ago, I bought a water-based floor finish that had ceramic mixed in it. I believe it was a Swedish product. Do not ask me the name. This was, might've been 10 years ago. I have no recollection of what the brand was.

What I would actually do is, for something like this, I'd go to a specialty store like Sherwin-Williams. There's another, Hirshfield's, and tell, "This is the material, this is what I want." See what they recommend for floor finishes 'cause there are, finishes change so fast these days. The chemistry behind that is going. So I'm sure that I'm not as versed in that marketplace as you need me to be. So I would get this, Eddie, I would get this information from a finishing company that can give you more up-to-date information.

Larry asks, "Is an ATG," ATB, says ATG but must mean ATB, "alternative top bevel blade a wider curve?" No, and you can get thin-curve ATBs. You can get thing-curve flat top grinds. So you can get, I think you can get all of the grinds, table saw grinds, in thin curve or standard curve. "What you suggest to have as far as a combined surface," "combined planer surfacer... Planer and surfacer are the same.

So I think maybe you mean jointer planer. And I don't know, that's a category that I haven't messed with. JMakes does a lot of content and he just got a, I want to say it's a Hammer brand, but I'm not 100% sure. But it's a combo planer joiner. So if you look him up, JMakes.com, you can scroll through his stuff and see, I want to say it's in the last four to six weeks that he got it.

So he might just have some information on there about liking it or not. Dan says, "I've got some walnut "that has pinhole bug holes in it "that I want to use for cutting boards." You want to use the bug holes for cutting boards? "What's the best way to kill them? "What products do you recommend? No idea, this is funny, we had this question, Jenny, what?

Not last month 'cause I was at Matt Cremona's shop last month. But I think the month before and you need an entomologist, or a bug expert, or I mean, typically, he will kill bugs, but we don't know. And I'm referencing Jenny on this 'cause she's done a lot of biology in college and we don't know the best answer to kill bugs in your material. So what I would do is see if a local university has an extension office that you can call and post this question to, and they might have something, they might have a recommendation for you. But for me, I work with a lot of green wood that often has bugs in it but it sits for quite awhile before I use it.

So it just dries to a point where the bugs are no longer a thing. Bill says, "I've seen a large number of cutting boards "and edge laminations that delaminate over time. "Wondering about tongue and groove or splines." I'm sure they would help, but I don't think you need to. I often say if you have good joinery, the joint you're putting together is stronger than the surrounding wood. So good joinery is the key, whether it's a cutting board or you're gluing an edge onto something.

If the two surfaces are flat and you do a good job gluing them together, that should be forever. Now with cutting boards, if people abuse them, you can't put a cutting board in a dishwasher, you can't leave it immersed in a sink. You need to refresh the finish every once in a while. If you follow those guidelines, I got wooden boards laying around that are decades old and a little bit of new mineral oil on there every once in a while, maybe sand them every five years to refresh the face a little bit. But if you do a good joinery, good job gluing them together, there really shouldn't be any need to add tongue and groove or splines.

Steven says, "I see you have a Laguna bandsaw. "What's your opinion of the ceramic guides? "I'm getting used to my 1412. "I think I finally have the setup proper "and getting better resaw. "I also center the blade gullet on the side of the tire.

"Do you concur with this? "Guides are a folded-paper thickness "between guides and blade." So I got a Laguna 14VX, and the ceramic guides are great. And to speak to your question of gullet on the center of the tire, it depends. As long as you can have the gullet on the center of the tire, but no part of the blade is projecting off the back of the wheel, you're good to go. When I go to wider blades, and I'm trying to remember if a half-inch blade on my saw does this or not, half inch, 3/4-inch blades are more commonly center on the tire because I think if I put the gullet of a half-inch blade on the crown, part of the blade is sticking off the back of the wheel and I don't want that.

So yes, gullet center. Unless the blade's gonna project off the back. And your, yeah, paper thickness is good between the guides and the blade. Seth asks, "Do you think a dedicated "box joint cutter set saw blade is worth it, "such as the Freud's, "or should I just use a dado set?" I have used Freud's set and it's cool. Great cut quality.

I guess it depends on how many box joints you're gonna do. If it's a thing that you're doing a lot of, I guess what I would even do, I would need to see what they're promoting. I think that part of the promise with the box joint set is really flat bottoms in your joints, in the box joints, which that is good. 'Cause when that finger joint, when it marries together, face of this piece against the bottom of this piece, these need to be really flat. It's like the conversation we were having earlier about alternate top novel versus a flat top grind.

So on my dado head, if all I use is my two rim blades, they have an alternate top bevel configuration to their teeth. So, I got to think a second. I think they have a raker that still leaves them flat. But if yours don't, and you're just using the dado head, that could be an issue. So if you're getting good flat box joints out of your dado head, you're probably good to go.

If you're not, then the dedicated box joint set would probably be a good investment. Craig says, "My router has a chart in the owner's manual "that gives the speed at different numbers as well." Yeah, that's exactly what you need. You gotta know the relationship between the numbers on the dial and the RPM. I think the Porter-Cable 7518 is one of the only routers I know where it's actually got RPM on the dial so you know exactly where you want it. James, "Wanting to try cabinet doors.

"Any good sites you know of?" Cabinet doors, you wanna buy cabinet doors from a site or you wanna make cabinet doors? 'Cause we, WWGOA, if you wanna make them, we've got a lot of raised panel door stuff, flat panel door. We've got a lot of doormaking stuff. So if you go to WWGOA.com, upper right-hand corner is a search window. Put in there, doormaking, and then you'll get a list of everything that pertains to that.

I think it's one of the cool things, if I did a crass commercial, one of the cool things about GOA is that we archive everything. So the site's been up, I don't know something like nine years. So every piece of content we've ever created is available there. You can always search upper right-hand corner and see what we've got. 105 degrees in Perth, Australia, that's amazing.

You wanna go there, Jenny, or that's too hot for you? Little too warm. Somebody from, Baz, Townsville, Australia says, "Good day, George, love what you do." There's no way I'm trying an Australian accent 'cause I'm horrible at accents. Isn't it morning there? It morning in Australia?

I know there's gotta be, there's gotta be a 10-hour time difference, maybe in Australia, or is it tomorrow? It's tonight. Oh my gosh, That's really weird, it's Thursday here and Friday there. Now I can have, my brain is gonna start leaking out of my ears. And somebody says they're about to get eight inches of tropical rain, that's plenty.

19 degrees Celsius, 66 degrees in a Northeast Thailand. I think that's the first time we've had somebody from Thailand tune in, that's pretty cool. And Pat leaves a nice comment, Don says, "Cleaned my maple workbench "of glue and paint marks after sanding. "What sealers should I apply?" This one, the bench in front of me, has linseed oil on it and the way that we did that is the first coat was mixed linseed oil and mineral spirits, half and half. That helps it soak in, did that twice, and then the third coat was just linseed oil.

So I like that 'cause it's very easy to refresh. This is about to a point where we'll give it, we, Jenny and I, we'll give it a very light sanding, probably 150 grit, and then linseed oil the whole thing again, and it'll look like brand new. So I'm a fan of linseed oil on workbenches. AJ says, "We just did a floating shelf. "Dowel and jig worked for getting the holes." So AJ, did you use the...

Did you use that Rockler product? Is that why you drilled the dowel holes? DiggingBone, "I did," leave? I'm not sure. Keith, "Have you ever converted "1/4-inch plywood into beadboard?

"I'm a little skeptical "that it won't weaken the plywood "or unbottle the feed." Well, you must want to paint it, I'm guessing, because if you cut through the veneer on 1/4-inch plywood, you're gonna be looking at the core. I guess I would entertain buying beadboard, probably, rather than, I've never done it. I'd have to price it and see if the price of beadboard made me go crazy. But I would probably just buy beadboard. I would not be thrilled about standing at the router table or able saw.

I think you'd have to be a molding head on a table saw, and making all those cuts, getting them uniformly spaced. Like you're saying keep good down pressure on it, but no, I've never tried. Tom says, "I have several short logs of walnut, "about five years old, I want to resign to one-inch boards. "Any advice on blade and feed rate?" About five years old, so yeah, you might have, next time you're doing this now, don't wait so long. You wanna turn them from logs to lumber while it's still green.

On green wood, I use a Timber Wolf brand 3/4-inch blade which I believe is three teeth per inch. On dry wood, I use a Timber Wolf half-inch blade, four teeth per inch. Here's the deal. Timber Wolf, PS Wood is a company that sells Timber Wolf blades and they're wonderful customer service. If you call them and say, "Here's the saw I have, "here's what I want to do.

"Give me the delayed recommendation." They will nail it down and tell you exactly what you need. So PSWood.com will get you there. That'll get you to the 800 number. Give them a call and tell them you want a blade to do what you're doing. Oh, and feed rate.

You'll feel it and hear it. Let the saw do the work. Don't slow it down, don't push so fast. You can slow it down. You don't mention the diameter of the logs here.

I routinely cut 12-inch diameter, 36-inch-long logs on my bandsaw and just listen to the saw and feed at the rate it can accept the wood. I know that's very subjective, but you'll get it. DiggingBone says, "I left out some important details. "They're turned down to a 3 1/2-inch outside diameter, "cut at 100," Well, yeah, so same thing, I guess. So they're turned, but you're still gonna make a triangle.

If they're round, it's gonna be a little dicey to put biscuits in there now and get it to register off a round surface. So I remain convinced that if you just glue them together, if you have good joints, so when you put each of those corners together, they're closing, that Thick & Quick glue is gonna be all you need. I am going to cough briefly. Sorry. Jeff says, "I'm turning a 10-year-old piece of oak.

"It seems very hard to cut, lots of gouging. "What should I expect when cutting correctly on the lathe?" With sharp tools and reasonable technique, you should be able to get a really clean cut that, for me, if I was turning oak in a bowl or spindle from the chisel, I would go probably to 120 or 150 grit sandpaper to clean it up, not 60 grit. So we've got a number of turning-related videos on WWGOA. So same thing, go to the main page, upper right-hand corner, lathe turning or spindle turning, or bowl turning. You get a bunch of results and maybe you'll find there something to help you refine your technique.

The chisels have to be sharp. Number one thing when I teach lathe turning, really, is people just trying to force the chisel 'cause it's not as sharp as it should be. So you've gotta have your chisel sharp. Jean says, "When I cut eight-inch splines for boxes "on my router table, they often chip out. "Based on what you just said about router speed, "should I be cutting these at the slowest speed?" No, if it's eighth-inch, you should be fast but you need to back them up.

So let me grab, just stay where you are, Jenny. I'm coming back I really am. If I can get this without killing myself. Come on. All right.

Here's a jig I use. I'll come up here. Here's a jig I use if I'm splining on the router table. Let me spline this to ya. So the box I'm working on nests in here, and then this whole thing feeds like this on the router table.

So when you look in here, the box is in here. There's a big hole available for the router bit to go through. I put a piece of scrap in here. Then I put the box in here. So there's a piece of waste wood behind the box so as the bit comes through, the waste was supporting the exit side of the cut.

You need to do that. And that will completely eliminate chipping on the feed side. And as long as that piece of waste wood stays in the same position, you can use it over and over and over again and cut through that same spot over and over and over again. You don't have to replace the waste wood board. So that's the key, is you have to, you need to support it on the out feed side so it doesn't chip.

But yeah, a little router bit like an eighth inch you definitely want to run at high-speed, high RPM. Bainbridge Island, Washington. Steve says, "When you joint face frame pieces, "do you run them through the planer "to maintain a consistent width?" Yep, so that's what, whenever I make face frames, I rip them on the table saw, 16th-inch oversize, then I take all those pieces, put them on edge, send them through the planer. It does two things or more. One, gets all the saw marks off.

Two, every piece of face frame stock is exactly the same width. Three, it's way safer than trying to join two-inch pieces on a joint. It's so much easier and of course you can run. You can gain six, eight, 10 pieces up at one time and send them altogether. So on edge, do the planer for face frame stock is the fastest way to clean up your face frame pieces.

William says, "Can you talk about the bench?" He says your laptop is, I'm not saying, I'm sitting on. "Dimensions, materials used, T track," So I've been asked about this a bunch of times. So I am going to do a SketchUp drawing of this. I'll give you the overall. It's a four-by-eight top and the top is made up of two sheets of one-inch Baltic Birch face-to-face.

The T-track is from Rockler. Height of the bench is such that it's the same as my table saw. So if I do lots and lots and lots of cutting, I've got an out feed table behind my table saw that is about 30 inches wide, thank you, Jenny. But if I'm doing lots of cutting, like face frame pieces, I can push the workbench up against the out feed table and then I have an aircraft carrier-worth of stuff I could push on to. I've got the Rockler workbench casters on it.

Jenny and I were just commenting what it takes to move this back. Rockler's workbench casters. I think the capacity is 400 pounds and I'm pretty sure I've exceeded that with his bench but they're still working well. I've got drawers on that side, power tool storage on this side. So anyway, I will get this drawn and when it's drawn and available, I will let the general public know 'cause a lot of people have asked.

When I built it, I just built it out of my head. I designed as I went and, my feeling was it's so huge that not many people would be interested in it because not many people can put a four-by-eight workbench in their shop. But I was wrong because a lot of people have asked about it. Kmy says, "If you had a dado set for the table saw "and an appropriate-width router bit, "what would you use to make a dado?" I always do my dados on the table saw. I can adjust the size of a dado head.

I can't adjust the size of a router bit. So when plywood or MDF or whatever is a funky size, it's very easy to get the dado head to just the right size. Ron says, "What should my next power tool be? "Bandsaw or thickness planer? "I have a table saw, router table, "older small jointer and a reasonably good jigsaw." Get them both.

How's that? Get them both. A bandsaw or a thickness planer? I don't know, it depends on what you do. I use my bandsaw a lot.

I'm a heavy bandsaw user. Thickness planer, if you're buying rough-sawn stock, of course, you need a jointer and a planer to clean up rough-sawn stock. So it's not, you gotta kind of look at the woodworking you're doing and the woodworking you wanna do, and then go from there to which of those tools would give you the most versatility. Kevin says, "For gluing 1/32 to 1/16 of wood, "what would you use? "And not expensive." For gluing a 1/32 to a 1/16 of wood planned, What would you use?

And not too expensive, for glue? If it's wood to wood, I would use yellow glue. And AJ fills us in 'cause he's been to Australia. It's tomorrow in Australia and about 12 hours difference. Oh, here, we're told it's 11:30 Friday morning in Australia right now, that's kind of weird.

Good morning. Yeah, you're tomorrow this side of the planet. Tim is in Edgerton, Wisconsin. Sid is in Washington, DC. "I recently assembled drawers for a dresser, "realized that the neared drawer fronts "are slightly too big.

"I need to take a bit off all four sides. "I'm worried I'll chip or tear the veneer. "Would a rip, cross cut, or other type "of blade work on my table saw? "Is table saw the best tool to use?" Yeah, if you can trim them on the table saw, I mean, it's probably the easiest way to do it. And if you use, so veneered drawer fronts, do you mean they're like plywood, a veneered plywood?

If you use a 60-tooth, five-degree hook, alternate top bevel blade on your table saw to cut plywood, you shouldn't get any chipping with the grain or across the grain. Gary says, "I'm using a 2 1/4 horsepower Bosch "for slab flattening," "using the Infinity Mega Dado flattening bit," which is a wonderful bit. "Would it be a better idea to have a 3 1/2 horse "or higher dedicated router?" Oh, I don't know, I don't think so. 'Cause I want to say isn't that Infinity bit like an inch and a half in diameter? So it probably needs to run it 16,000 RPMs or so.

And it's not really, you know, if your slab, that slab flattening, you're probably only taking off 1/16, maybe 1/32 at a time. So yeah, it's not really a power thing. Happy to help you spend your money but I don't think you have to go to a 3 1/2 horse, a three-horse router just for that. "I bought a rigid oscillating spindle sander today, "isn't out of the box yet. "The guy at Woodcraft recommended I go "to Home Depot and buy Ridgid.

"Any thoughts on isolating spindle sanders?" I've had the Ridgid sander in the corner of my shop so long, it's gray, not orange, that's how old it is. I'm sure I've been using it, I've been in this building six years. So I've been using it at least that long 'cause I moved it here. So yeah, I don't know, I've had very good luck with that. I own a handful of Ridgid tools that have been fine for me.

So yeah, it's good, it's good for me. David's in Texas. "Want to say how much I enjoy your live feeds." Thank you, thanks for tuning in. If people weren't watching, we wouldn't do this. Jeanie says, "My spline jig looks just like that.

"Never used a backer board before "but it makes perfect sense," good. "How do you dispose of linseed oil rags after use?" Great, great, great question. What don't you do? You don't wad them up and leave them in a pile. I probably know three people whose shops burned down from spontaneous combustion from oily rags left in a pile.

So it's not just linseed oil, it's Danish oil, any of the oils as they, excuse me, as they cure, they give off heat. So they could give off enough heat, they can start on fire. So in this building, anybody using that is admonished to drape the rag over a garbage can. So the key to that drape, it's spread out, drape it over the edge of a garbage can and then leave it, and the next day, it'll be hard and bone dry, then it can get thrown out. Another alternative is take the whole rag and put it in a bucket of water and leave it in there for a while, like a couple of days, and then you can take it out and throw it out.

But the big, big, big key is don't crumple it up and throw it in a corner 'cause you will burn your shop down. "I have to build a running 28 feet of bookcase. "Beginner's question," and you're gonna build 28 feet of bookcase? That's pretty ambitious, excuse me. "Four feet high in converted attic space over our garage.

"Assuming I have to break this into mini bookcases "and join them together." You probably do 'cause you can't move a 28-foot bookcase up in there, right? "What's the widest bookcase size I can get away with "and achieve good results?" I would do four-foot sections 'cause the bookcase is probably only 12 or 16 inch deep. So if you did seven fours, you'd have your 28. That sounds good to me. Gib says, "What do you use to seal "your cast iron tops on the table saw?" I use Bostik GlideCote.

Jenny, could you, in that black cabinet around the finishes, see if you can see, readily see the Bostik GlideCote. And we're just about done here. It's an aerosol can, it's either really dark blue or black. It's possible I ran out of it 'cause I know I was low. But Bostik, B-O-S-T-I-K, GlideCote is the product I use all the time.

Mark says, "If you're designing the work table again, "would you configure the T tracks the same "or do something different?" No, they've been great. I've got a bunch of products that lock into the T tracks and this number, what did I do? One, two, three, four of them with the spacing I have here has worked out wonderfully. All right, it's eight bells. So we're gonna call it quits.

Thanks so much for tuning in and a month from now, second Thursday in January, we'll be doing this all over again. Couple of things, if you're in the Chicago area, I will be teaching at the Rockler Chicago stores January 22nd, or I'm sorry, January 26th is a Saturday. January 27th is a Sunday. It's Orland Park and Bolingbrook. I will be at those stores in the afternoon.

Don't ask me which stores, it'll be on my website, it'll be on Vondriska Woodworks. But I don't remember which is which. But I'll be there in January. If you're in the San Diego area, I'm teaching at the San Diego Woodworking Club January 19th is a Saturday. If you're in Indianapolis, I'll be at the Indianapolis Woodworkers Guild, Central Indiana Woodworking Club in March.

That's a long way out, I'll talk about that again. So, coming up fast, January, I've got the two Rockler gigs in Chicago, 26 and 27. The San Diego gig, the 19th. Jenny, why will we be in San Diego the 18th of January? Graduation.

Graduation, her brother, my kid, will be graduating from Marine Corps bootcamp on the 18th. And then I got a teaching gig in San Diego the next day on the 19th. So we're gonna be out there to see him wrap up. So thanks so much for watching and thanks, Sam, for running the boards. Thanks Titebond for keeping us alive and we will see you when we look at you, bye.