WWGOA LIVE! April 2018

Live. Hey folks, how are you doing today? It's Thursday, April 12th, right? Jenny, does that sound right? And we are live from scenic Hammond, Wisconsin.

I wish I could say, I'm just shutting my phone down here. I wish I could say sunny Hammond, Wisconsin, but that does not seem to be a happening thing. Man, our weather has been marginal, so enough about weather. Let's talk about woodworking. I have got quite the list of questions here.

Sam is behind the scenes, running the boards, making it all happen. So here we go, starting at the top. This is a great one from Eddie. Like to see how to correctly use a scraper and how to sharpen it. So let's jump right into it.

I'm gonna have, let's see, Jenny, I will, we'll end up with you focused on the edge of the bench there. Let me get into the right drawer. There we go. And get some material that we can scrape on. I'm gonna do this.

Casters are good. You are in just the right spot. I'm gonna bring this in. This is a scraper, more specifically this is what's called a card scraper. And here's the way scrapers work.

When we talk about sharpening a scraper it's unlike sharpening a chisel or a plane iron in that we're not looking to get a sharp, pointed edge on this. What we really want is a burr. And let me, I'm gonna come way over here. You stay where you, Jenny. And I'm gonna.

What I wanna do is get sound from this and I might be too close for the camera to focus on this. But when I do this my fingernail is catching on a burr on the edge of this. And it's that burr that creates the cutting action. So let me go back over here where I was. Here's the way the burr gets produced.

This is a burnisher. And the bottom line with this piece of steel is that it's simply a metal rod that's harder than the cabinet scraper. This steel is harder than this steel. So think of it, a great analogy is if you own a cold chisel, a metal chisel, and you pound on it for a long time with a hammer you mushroom the head of that chisel. Same thing here.

We basically wanna mushroom the card scraper. Now, I'm missing something here. I'm missing just a drop of oil. I'm gonna go without it, but normally what you wanna do is put a drop of just like 3-In-One oil on here would be just fine. Now, if this is zero, the burnisher is parallel to the floor, I'm gonna come down about five degrees.

So I'm taking the corner and I'm deforming it. I'm forcing that corner down. Then I'm gonna flip it and I'm gonna do the same thing at each of the opposite corner. So now what should've happened there is that those sharp corners are now pushed down this way. Now, let me just tap my burnisher, it's a little loose.

There we go. Now, in this position that burnisher is parallel to the floor, it's straight up and down, I'm gonna pull it five degrees this way. So I'm doing this and I'm gonna force that burr back. Same thing to the other side, straight up and down, five degrees or so. All right, let's see if we can cut.

Let me get a clamp. I'm gonna do, I'm gonna do, I'm just looking for . And now, Jenny, we'll end up here. So when you use a card scraper they work great on hardwoods. This is cherry.

They don't work very well on softwoods like pine. Now for use what you need to do with your thumbs is bend this. We need to isolate the cutting edge. We don't, we're not gonna cut with all, whatever, five inches of that. We're gonna isolate just one portion of it by bowing it, like that.

Gonna pull the corners back, push down with my thumbs, and then push. And lock my casters. There we go. All right, push. Now, one of the things you have to do as you're using it is you have to find the angle here.

Because when you produce that burr you produce the burr at a certain angle. If I hold this too straight up, it doesn't cut. If I hold it too far down, it's too aggressive. It's just digging in, it's not scraping. Somewhere in between is just the right angle.

And question, did we get sharpened correctly? See how these are shavings, not dust. That's a great sign. You should be getting shavings. That's an overview.

Let's come out big again. There is, we've got some video on this online and when I come back and sit down afterward and I answer whatever questions I didn't get to I'll do a link to the video. 'Cause the maintenance aspect of this is you can burnish a good scraper about six times and then it gets to a point where you have to clean up the edges. Hand burnishing is gonna take this edge out of being dead straight from end to end and then that's gonna make it really, really hard to use. So that process of using a file and then a wet stone, and then starting the burnishing process is covered in that video.

So I'll make sure I reference that with this question later. So a good question. I use a card scraper all the time. When I make a guitar, this is what I use to clean up the binding and the perfling and get it flush to the body and the soundboard. So it's a great tool to get the hang of.

Jenny's making a good point. She's pointing. So we do wanna thank Titebond, our sponsor, who brings this to you for free. Titebond has been a great sponsor for WWGOA and myself and really it's with their help and their sponsorship that lives that we do once a month remain free for you folks. All right, so we got Eddie on the scraper.

I'm just refreshing my page here. Woodrow says, hello. Hello back, Woodrow. And John asks, what do you and others do with sawdust collected in the shop? Is there a removal service or does it become fertilizer?

I've got a dumpster, I've got a two yard dumpster out here, so my sawdust goes in there. I'm not sure of a removal service outside of trash pickup. Fertilizer, maybe. So there's some qualifiers to this. In my dust collectors, especially the one that's connected to the table saw, I don't know, 50% of what's going in there is from man-made material.

So as a fertilizer, think about this. If you're cutting MDF and melamine and plywood there's quite a bit of glue and other chemicals in there. You really don't wanna lay that stuff on your plants. The other thing to consider is that some woods have a natural toxicity. Black walnut is an example.

If you put black walnut shavings on your tomatoes you're gonna kill your tomatoes. So you can mulch with it, but you have to be careful about the nature of the sawdust that you're dumping. If someone has other ideas for John about what can be done with sawdust then throw it on here. To answer it you can reply to John on the page. Brin says, I'm having difficulties setting the knives on my jointer.

Do you have any tips to make the process quicker and easier? We can look at my jointer. Now, I've got a helical head with carbide inserts, but we can still, well, let's talk through the process over there, Brin, and we'll see how this goes. So head for the Laguna there, Jenny. I'm gonna get a straight edge.

And you'll probably need to come this way, so you can see. And I got, no, this this way, sorry. Is it getting tippy? See if that looks reasonably straight. Keeps doing it.

I will replace that. All right, I gotta unplug. It looks pretty straight from here. Maybe I'm a little crooked. I fixed it.

Okay. And then if you can look here, so maybe you gotta come, or can you see? With most jointer knives, there are basically two different configurations. So not including carbide insert cutters like this. You'll either have springs under the jointer knives that push them up or you'll have jack screws.

Jack screws, I think, make things a little bit easier. So with jack screws what I do is I start with the knife too low, so it's below the outfeed table. And then I turn it, with the jointer unplugged, I turn it by hand. And what I'm doing is I'm feeling for the cutter, like right there I can just feel, that cutter is just scraping the bottom of my straight edge. Same thing with a knife that's on a jack screw.

So then, because it's too low when you start out it won't be touching at all. Then you can put a, typically it's an Allen wrench on the jack screw, raise it just a little bit, snug it down, try it again. Loosen the gib, raise it a little bit, snug it down, try it again. So the problem with this can be if you get up too high then you gotta loosen everything up, go down with the jack screw and start over again. So what I'm really doing is I'm testing it on the infeed side, I'm testing it, or inboard side, testing it on the outboard side at the same time and constantly toggling back and forth between those two.

With a spring, what I do is loosen the gib screws, let spring pressure push it up against the bottom of the ruler, snug the gib screw. Same thing on this side, snug the gib screw. And then test it by doing this. And it should just be kissing the bottom of the ruler. It's really, really, really critical that if you've got three knives in a jointer, four knives in a jointer, they're all set the same.

If one or two are set higher than the others they're gonna be doing all the work and it's gonna be nearly impossible to get a nice, you get a washboard effect from that. So it's really, really critical that you get them all three projecting the same. So hopefully, Brin, that gives you a little bit of perspective, a little bit of help there. Gonna head back for the iPad. And Russell says.

That's, you gotta be up that high? Is that, okay. Let's let Jenny correct here, so people don't get carsick. And it's not Jenny's, Jenny is doing a great job. My tripod needs to be replaced like a year ago and I haven't done it yet.

So Russell's asking, I'm gonna turn some birdseye maple on my lathe to make fishing rod handles. Any special tips on handling this type of wood? My client is providing wood from his mill and is concerned whether the markings in the wood will break loose or pop out when turning. You've seen some of my other work, but I've not used birdseye yet. I don't think you're gonna have an issue.

I've turned a fair bit of birdseye and the eyes have it . No, the eyes, I've never seen them pop out. I am gonna say you want your chisels to be sharp. It's possible to tear the eyes, but they're not gonna come loose. So keep your chisels plenty sharp.

Make sure that your RPM is right for what you're doing. If you're running too slow that's gonna be hard to get a good finish on any wood. So make sure the RPM is right. Make sure the chisels are sharp. But net, net, you're really gonna be able to treat it like any other piece of wood, except that it'll be really beautiful when you're done with it, 'cause your fishing rods are cool, A.

Two, the birdseye itself is gonna be absolutely beautiful when it's sanded out. So that'll be good. This has to do, James is asking, this has to do with turning. I'd like to buy a CNC machine to cut out mug handles without spending an arm and a leg. Has to do with turning.

I don't see the turning portion there. So let me know if I'm missing something, James. So I think the question is, I'd like to buy a CNC machine to cut out mug handles without spending an arm and a leg, do you have any suggestions? Well, there's a lot of machines out there. So mug handles, my guess is gonna be small bed size.

Next Wave has, I think their smallest machine is a nine by 13 inch bed. I've got two machines here with 24 by 36 inch beds, so it sounds like you don't need to go that big. But I would consider, as you're making a buying decision a couple of things, one is this is what you wanna do today. What might you wanna do a year from now, two years from now? In other words, like a lot of tools, you don't wanna outgrow the machine as you get more comfortable with it and you think of other things that you wanna do with it.

I like machines that will take both 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch shank router bits. So just like with a handheld router, you'll get more versatility out of your router bits and out of your CNC by being able to take multiple shank sizes. What else? Bed size, focus, narrow it on that. When you buy your machine you can commonly get either a router is gonna drive it or a spindle is gonna drive it.

And then within the spindles, water-based or, I'm sorry, water cooled or air cooled. The air cooled is more expensive between the two, but then you don't have to worry about turning on the pump that provides water to the water cooled. In either case, spindle versus router. Spindle will be more expensive upfront, but it's a longer lived tool. And in many cases gives you a little bit more torque than a similar router would.

Warren asks, any tips on chip carving? Yeah, find Wayne Barton or Burton. Somebody correct me on that. It's either Wayne Barton or Burton. He's in Illinois, he is an extraordinary chip carver.

I don't know anything about it. When I went to Peace Corps in Africa I got some instructional stuff from Wayne and my feeling was like, well, you know, Peace Corps, wasn't nearly three years, I'm gonna have the opportunity to just sit around and teach myself a new skill. So I got one of Wayne's knives, took it with me. There was like no spare time. There was very little opportunity to sit and teach myself chip carving.

So I am absolutely the wrong guy to ask on this. But Wayne is, he is quite the resource, quite the resource for chip carving. Aaron says he'd like to learn some new techniques. Hopefully we're the spot for you. There's a lot of stuff on GOA.com, Aaron.

That a lot, a lot, a lot, a lot of information, a lot of content. Glenn says recently built an Adirondack chair out of poplar. It looks really nice and I'd like to keep it natural. What type of finish should I put on poplar that will spend its life outdoors? Well, like doesn't matter, poplar, oak, cherry, walnut, you need a good outdoor polyurethane on there, a good exterior polyurethane, and that'll protect it so it could live outside.

And then hopefully in a similar vein, you put it together with an exterior glue, which would be Titebond II or III or similar, so that it can live outside. Christopher says, I'm just getting into woodworking. Having a hard time finding high quality sheet goods in my area. The best I have readily available that won't cost a lot for shipping is what I can find at Home Depot. Basically a thin veneer, low ply count.

What are the risks of building projects? So my experience with home center plywood and in my cabinet making class we used to always use home center plywood. And one of the problems I had with it is that even with a really good dado head on my table saw a lot of times on the dados we'd get chipping in the veneer. And what I eventually came to realize, came to learn is that it wasn't my dado chipping the veneer, it was the core of the material pulling loose and then taking the veneer with it. So sometime ago I gave up on using home center plywoods for the most part, for the most part.

The other thing I've found is that when you look at the face veneer on say a red oak plywood from a home center a lot of times the quality of that veneer isn't very good. What I mean by that is the grain pattern isn't very consistent, the color isn't very consistent, the color, even on a good face, isn't a great match for a piece of solid from the same species. So net, net, as your woodworking grows I think what you wanna look for in your area is what I would do is google a hardwood supplier. So not a lumberyard, not a home center, you want a hardwood supplier. Give them a call and ask them what they have available and what it takes to buy from them.

And you're gonna pay more per sheet. I think here 3/4 inch four by eight red oak from my hardwood supplier is about 60 bucks a sheet. At a home center it's $45, but it's worth every penny of that extra 15 bucks for the higher quality stuff that I get from the hardwood supplier. Mark is here from Dallas. Hello, Mark.

There's a Dallas, Wisconsin that's not that far from here, but I suspect you mean Dallas, Texas. Frank says, how do I get a decent cut with a jigsaw? I'm gonna pull out a jigsaw and we'll do a little visual here. I'm also refreshing the page at the same time. All right, let me grab a jigsaw.

You stay right where you are. Hey, I'm gonna ask this and I'll bring this up a couple of times. So one, let me say again, thanks to Titebond, our sponsors. Additionally, hopefully you are following WWGOA on Facebook and Twitter and Instagram. We're active on all of those social media platforms.

One of the things, speaking of social media, I'd like to know, and you can just put it in the comments, is how did you find out about the live? So in other words, I'm just curious about where our audience comes from. So somehow you knew that this was happening today and thank you, here you are. So where did you hear about it? From whom did you hear about it?

How did you know that this was cooking? So let me grab a jigsaw. Got a big thumbs up from Jenny. Thanks, Jenny. Jenny and I just went for dinner and it were great.

We were just, we made, say, well, yeah, we went for a motorcycle helmet for Jenny, I already have one, and dinner. And I believe we made Sam a little nervous, because we start at seven and I thought I had this timed better. But Jenny and I got in the shop door at 6:58. So we were lucky that there were no flat tires and no speeding tickets and that we got here on time. So sorry about that, Sam.

We were, but the motorcycle helmet was an imperative thing. All right, let me get a board. You know what? I want a piece of plywood for this, so let me look in this direction. Try this, this is Baltic birch Or what we would just call multi-ply plywood.

So one of the things with jigsaws that is a big deal, but I think a lot of people don't know is controlling the orbit action. So Jenny, I'm gonna ask you to come here. Not come here, I'm gonna ask you to bring the camera here, smarty. This button is currently pointed to zero. That means zero orbit.

The blade is gonna go straight up and down. As I go this way, one, two, three, four, it increases the orbit. So I'm gonna go back to zero and what I want you to do is watch the blade and its verticalicity here. I'm gonna lower the RPM, so it's easier to see. Did I put it back in the right spot?

Is that good, Jenny? All right, straight up and down. Now, if I go to four, watch, same spot. Now what it's doing is it's rocking forward, coming up and cutting, rocking forward, coming up and cutting. So let me show you on my material here.

I'm gonna start on four and I'm gonna intentionally start by cutting and going cross grain on this Baltic birch. I'm gonna go back to my higher RPM. So this is maybe what, when we talking about cut quality, what you're talking about. Looking at all the chipping I have in that veneer. Now I'm gonna go to one, or I'm sorry, zero.

And adjacent spot, do the same thing. So hopefully you're noticing two things here. One, look at the cut quality difference by reducing the orbits. Is that a good angle or should I turn it? Look at the difference in cut quality by going from four orbits to zero.

But what's the other thing that you notice? The feed rate is quite a bit slower. So the reason that we have the ability to control orbit is that when I go to four it's really aggressive and it's gonna cut really fast. Obviously, I didn't change blades in between cuts. So it's gonna be really aggressive, it's gonna cut a lot faster, but we're more prone to getting tear out on the top surface because the teeth, I'm gonna qualify this in a second, the teeth on jigsaw blades points up toward the sole.

So when it cuts up and you're on four you're gonna aggressively tear through the top surface. When we go to zero orbit you're gonna cut more slowly, but you're gonna get a better surface finish. Now, my qualifier is, if you look on Amazon you can find jigsaw blades where the teeth point down toward the surface. What's the downside of that? The downside is you're pushing down and it can make the saw have a tendency to push back, to vibrate up off the work just a little bit.

But if the quality of cut on the top is really, really critical. For instance, you're gonna cut a sink cutout into a plastic laminate countertop and you wanna really make sure that the plastic laminate doesn't chip, a down pointing blade might not be a bad idea. And then the other thing for cut quality is just blade selection. Make sure that you're using, just like when you use a circ saw blade or a table saw blade or a bandsaw blade, that the blade matches what you want it to do. A fine tooth blade is gonna cut more conservatively with a better cut quality than a coarse tooth blade.

So control the orbits, match the blade to the work, and if need be, consider a downward pointing blade instead of a up point. And what did we used to call jigsaws when I was a kid? When I was a kid that wasn't a jigsaw, it was a saber saw, which every once in a while still comes out of my mouth, 'cause I got so used to saying it. We had a, it was my dad's. We had an old, old, old Sears, all metal, shiny silver saber saw.

I used that a lot in my early woodworking. All right, scrolling questions. The best glue, Dick is asking, what is the best glue for bent laminations? I haven't done a lot of it, but what I have done, I have used Titebond Original, conventional yellow glue. If you need more cure time, there is a, because thinking about the number of laminations you have to do, there is a slow set Titebond.

Could you look, Jenny, on the back shelf by the clamps where all the glues are there's a white Titebond bottle and it'll be, I'm having her get the bottle, 'cause I can't remember the exact name of the product. Yeah, what is that stuff actually called? Extend. Yeah, extend, there we go. I'm an excellent catch.

All right, so Titebond II, so it's a exterior product, but also it's an extended tack time, so it'd give you more working time. And I think you'd be fine with that. Yeah, so Dan, with the sawdust question is saying, I'm not sure dumping out in the open is okay. I don't, I mean, I'm not sure either, especially if you have neighbors right next door and a cloud of dust is gonna blow over their freshly washed car. And, again, just being cognizant of the chemicals that could be in there and other stuff.

So yeah, it's quite possible you just gotta have the garbage company take it away. Bill is in Medina, Ohio. Larry says, I'm gonna build kitchen cabinets and they will be painted white. I hear conflicting recommendations regarding the use of an airless sprayer or an HVLP. What do you recommend?

So I've got, years ago I bought a really good Wagner airless and I've got stuff here still that I painted with it. I built a MDF tool chest that I have all my mechanics tools, I'm pointing to my garage here. All my car repair stuff is in that. And I painted that with a water-based enamel that I ran through the Wag. Subsequently, I become a very heavy HVLP user and I've sprayed lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of paint through my HVLP.

So given my choice today, I would go HVLP. Now, I'm not super up to date on advances in airless technology and what kind of products Wagner has out there today. But I can say with HVLP sprayers thin the paint just a little bit, maybe 10%, add a product called Floetrol to the paint, that helps the paint level. And you can get an amazing paint job out of an airless sprayer. No brush marks, no roller marks, it'll level out really nice.

So HVLP is my method of choice today. Bruce is in Iowa. I'm gonna be an Iowa shortly. Weekend with Wood is coming up May something, 18th or so. So I'll be in Des Moines at the Wood Magazine headquarters for a weekend.

Timothy says, making a desktop using cherry. After flattening and sanding I have a couple of BB-sized voids in the surface. Wow. Don't wanna remove any more material. How can I fill these voids in a manner that doesn't detract from the appearance?

Finish will be shellac. Boy, I use Timbermate wood filler. I like it a lot. So you could try that. It's a water-based filler product.

I use that all the time. So you could give that a run. BB-sized voids. If they're dimples, I wonder if you could, I would experiment on one of them and I would take like an eyedropper and put a drop of hot water right on the dimple and see if that swells the grain to a point where it flushes it up with the surface, or preferably takes it over the surface just a little bit, and then sand it from there to flush it up again. I would try that.

I'd try and drop a water on it. The problem with fillers, I like Timbermate a lot, but if you've got a hole, a round dimple or divot in the work and you pack it full of filler, I think it's gonna look like a round hole that you packed full of filler. So try the water thing, try the Timbermate thing, see what that does for you. Dave says, well, David says, hello, George. So hello, David.

And then Dave says, I will soon be in possession of some green treated timbers about 20 years old. Anything I need to be aware of while working with the timbers? Well, don't breathe it. Part of the, a huge change in treated lumber was the removal of, I think it's arsenic from the chemical mix. I think that happened less than 20 years ago.

So the stuff that you have has probably still got, whatever chemical was taken out has probably still got that in there. If there's any kind of label on there it'd be worth contacting the manufacturer and see what they can tell you. But I would definitely wear a dust mask when you're working with it. And then just be cognizant of where are you gonna use it? This is not cutting board material obviously.

It's not child furniture material. So yeah, just be aware of what project you're gonna use it for. Thomas says, he's on a holiday in Florida, or he's down south in Holiday, Florida. Maybe that's the name of the town. Just wanted to wish you a pleasant evening and hope to see some videos concerning usage of routers.

Oh man, yeah, I'm a heavy router guy. There's a lot of stuff out there. There's a video called handheld router techniques and I think it's two hours long with nothing, but oddly enough, handheld router techniques. So that's, I think it's available as a stream on the website, but you'd have to double-check. Friction plugs to, trap shooter says, friction plugs to turn a project on the lathe.

I can't seem to get the plugs true so the turning runs straight and true. I don't know what that, I need, if you're still on, trap shooter, give me some more specifics. 'Cause I don't know where you're, I don't know where you're going there. Lance says, why do his fingers look like the top of his work bench? You mean beat up?

Yeah, I had kind of a bad day. Here's the thing, my hands get super dry. And the more I'm working with, what are you gonna zoom on my poor hands? Are you're gonna pick on me? I have an owie right on that, where are you?

I have an owie right on that finger. So my skin gets really dry. I'm a very heavy Gold Bond user and I try to stay ahead of the dry skin, but I don't always succeed at that. So then when they're super dry it's like incidental contact tears them open. On that end of the shop, there a bunch of melamine cabinets, gesundheit, Jenny, that I'm working on and melamine has crazy sharp edges, so it doesn't take much contact with a freshly cut piece of melamine to cut yourself pretty good.

Jeff asks, when do you know when your blades on your planer are getting dull? Great question. So one thing will be a washboard effect. So you should be able to expect from your planer a nice, smooth surface. Washboard would be across the width of the board, if you fed it this way, across the width of the board a ridge and a ridge and a ridge and a ridge and a ridge and a ridge and a ridge.

And that's a symptom of the knives being dull. Another one is that, on mine, I have a benchtop planer and I notice that it's got rubber feed rollers. And those work great while the knives are sharp. One symptom of the knives being dull on mine is that dull knives mean there's more pressure, more cutting pressure, and the rollers don't wanna feed as effectively. They tend to stall out.

So if you're finding that when things are good your material feeds fine and then suddenly it doesn't wanna feed anymore. Your rollers could be dirty or, and/or your knives could be dull. So those two things are good symptoms to look for. Gary tells us that his dad used to save his dust and shavings, would put them in a chicken coop and that's all good. We used to have horses.

And if I knew exactly what the shavings were they might get dumped in with the horses. But if there was any question, the question being did walnut get in there? Did glue from man-made products get in there? I wouldn't put them on a flower bed and I wouldn't put them in with the animals. Gary has got an answer for you here too, John, about letting neighbors know about free sawdust.

Claude is asking, easiest way to sand an end grain cutting board if you don't have a drum sander? Portable belt sander. I've done that a lot. The other thing you can, if you're doing a lot of end grain cutting boards, I'm looking at a jig I have and I gotta think if this is available on the website. Let me see if I can draw it for you.

I'm coming. 'Cause there's a router-based jig that'll save you a boatload of time with end grain cutting boards. We'll see how effectively I can draw it for you here. And then when we're done if there's a video on this on the site I'll find it and I'll provide a link if I can. So here's what you do.

You build a trough that looks kind of like this. And your cutting board is gonna lay inside here. And then over the top of this, you build a bridge and I'll give that bridge some more detail. And on that bridge will be your handheld router with a big router bit in it. So what's happening is that you put some stops on here, so that that can't fall off.

As you passed the router back and forth and back and forth over your end grain cutting board, it'll level it out. Now there's a lot of stuff going on here. The end grain cutting board or whatever it is your flattening has to be locked up, it has to be very, very secure inside the jig. That bridge thing, if we look at it from the top, looks kind of like this. A board and a board with a space in between that's larger than the diameter of the cutter you're gonna use.

I do this with an inch and 1/4 diameter router bit. And then you gotta have a board going this way that ties those together and keeps them together. And then your router sits on top of that with the router bit below it. So if you start with this, the benefit is this is gonna make that surface dead flat. Where let's say you do the portable belt sander route and you put 60 grit paper on a belt sander and you start, it'll do it.

But handheld to keep a big cutting board dead flat is really, really tough. So I would definitely take the time to build that jig and do that first. Then go to a sander and start to clean up the router marks. But if you use a good cutter for that you'll be amazed at how good a surface you get. Infinity tools, Infinity router bits makes a planer router bit and it's really specifically designed for this stuff.

It's amazing. And it'll leave behind, even in end grain it'll leave behind a really, really good surface that won't take much work to clean up. John says, a video recently on vertical raised panel router bit. On the last pass do you need to adjust the outfeed fence so both sides are even with the bearing? Well vertical, none of my vertical panel raisers have bearings, it's just the cutter.

So there's no alignment between the fence and the bearing. If you, let's see, I'm trying to picture it. If the bit you own has a bearing on it, then, yeah, I guess for the last pass I would align the fence with the bearing. That makes sense. Kind of like a pattern style bit.

So yeah, if the bit you have has a bearing then align with the bearing. None of my vertical panel raisers have bearings on them. Can you joint a 12-inch board on a 6-inch jointer? You can, and we'll go back to the jointer and I'll talk you through how. I think, yeah, we should be able to do it.

Brian says the eyes have it was a good joke. Somebody appreciates my humor. Thank you, Brian. Stephen or Stephan, jointer or planer, what should I get first? Yes, both.

My pretty much standing joke with tool recommendations is the first tool you need is a credit card with a really high credit limit, and then you go from there. Two completely different tools. Jointers great for straightening edges, which is a must in woodworking. Planer is good for reducing thickness and cleaning up faces. Probably a must in woodworking, especially if you're getting stuff rough sawn.

You can edge joint on a router table. You can't, you can do what a jointer does with a handheld router using a straight edge on a router table with an offset fence. You really can't emulate what a planer does with anything except a hand plane if you're really good with the hand plane, which I am not. So there are workarounds with the jointer, not a lot of workarounds with the planer. That being said, when I first opened my shop in 1998 I had a jointer and I just, I did without a planer for a long time.

If I had to make stuff, if I needed thinner stock, I'd resaw it on my bandsaw, and then I'd use a portable belt sander to take the band saw marks out. Scott says he's gonna be building a large kitchen of raised panel doors. I wanna spray the clear finish coat. I have an 80 gallon compressor already. Is there adequate spray equipment for a large compressor available versus a turbine?

Online people claim turbine is better, but I see no difference with the large compressor. So yeah, a couple of things here, Scott. You can get an, so I spray with a turbine with an HVLP gun. You can get an HVLP compressor-based gun. You need somewhere around a minimum of 13 CFM, 13 cubic feet per minute output on the compressor to make sure it can adequately keep up with the gun.

And then I used to spray, in my old shop I did spray with a compressor-based gun all the time. And you do wanna put an oil drop. It's not really a filter, it's a trap, that's what it is. An oil trap and a water trap inline, especially now someday eventually we might get to summertime. It doesn't seem like it here in Wisconsin, but eventually.

And if the humidity is up and that's going into your air compressor, it will go into your air compressor, and if it ends up in your line it's really bad for your finish. So you definitely wanna do an oil trap, which picks up if your compressor blows any oil into the line it'll grab that and a water trap will grab just ambient water out of the line. But yeah, there's, I'm gonna be looking at a Fuji compressor-based HVLP, I dunno, not necessarily in the near future, but coming up. But yeah, they're out there, you can get them. Thomas says, hey, George, I just wanted to send a thank you out to yourself for the revised interest that I have in woodworking.

Used to do workshop back in the day when it was available in school many, many years ago. Just started to work on some family bed frames, working my way into dining room tables. Advice on construction of the dining room table frame would be helpful. I would go on GOA, upper right-hand corner there's a search bar and put in tables and just see what's there. I recently finished a desk and a little overview video and the plan for the desk will get posted in the next 30 to 60 days.

And it might be helpful just for you to see how that went together. I used a domino to put the rails and the legs together on the desk. But we've got a lot of stuff, we've got a lot of video on table construction. There's a sofa table that's mortise and tenon joinery. So I think if you just search table you're gonna get a lot of info.

Mark asks, please recommend a good set of counter sinks for screws. Snappy is a great, yeah, Snappy is a great brand. And if I can, when I get on here afterward if I can source it in the answer to your question, I will. But they make great stuff. Christopher says, following up on plywood, he has contacted local hardwood suppliers.

None of them supply sheet goods. Wow. Nor do they know where to get good plywood. I'd call a cabinet shop, because I would say, I can't imagine a local cabinet shop is buying their plywood from Home Depot or Menards, a home center. Dan says, as a Shopsmith owner with the pro head that can do 10,000 RPM, is that high enough RPM for routing?

It's great for a panel raiser, it's no good for a 1/4 inch roundover bit. RPM is way too low. Where low RPM works, so for instance, shaper versus router. Shapers run commonly at maybe 8,000, 9,000, 10,000 RPM, somewhere around there. Routers run at the low end at 10,000 or 12,000 RPM, and as high as 24,000 RPM.

What lets a shaper get away with that is the cutters are commonly three or four wing instead of two wing. So when you take what we're talking about and you translate that into cuts per minute, that's the critical thing, at 10,000 RPM and on four wing cutter we have 40,000 cuts per minute. At 24,000 RPM with a two wing cutter, we have 48,000 cuts per minute. So we're on a level playing field. At 10,000 RPM with a two wing cutter, 20,000 cuts per minute.

Something like a dovetail bit or a 1/4 inch roundover the surface finish will be lousy. So we've got some people responding about where they heard about this. Thank you. So what I'm talking about there, if you're just tuning in, I've asked people to let us know how did you learn about tonight's live? And if you can give us that information I would appreciate it.

It's just an informal survey I'm doing. Dan from Albuquerque says, any hints on cutting logs into boards on a bandsaw? I tried white oak, but it was difficult to say the least. I have cut miles and miles and miles of logs on a bandsaw. So one is blade selection.

You need a good, aggressive blade, three or four teeth per inch. That should be a wide blade. That'll vary with what saw you're using how wide a blade you can take. I have a large band, an 18 inch band saw. I keep a one inch, three tooth per inch blade on that saw expressly for cutting up logs.

And then the other thing is a sled. And I think, I know for a fact if you go on GOA and you go in the upper right-hand corner and you try a couple of different searches. One would be just logs bandsaw and see what you get. Also look at logs to lumber bandsaw. I think I've done two or three clips, two or three video clips showing this happen.

Because the other thing that's really important is you need a shop-made sled that stabilizes the log so that you can make the first cut. You can't just take a piece of round stock, like a log, and start ripping it on the band saw. It's not gonna go well. So making that shop-made stabilizer is really important. So just look for those, look on GOA for those clips.

Chris is in Sydney, Australia. That's cool. Thanks for watching, Chris. Way the other side of the pond. Mark, heard about the broadcast from Wood Magazine.

Wanted to know if you'll have any memberships specials pertaining to related costs. There's always a special to be a first-year GOA member. What you should do is sign up for the free newsletter and then what I think is gonna happen. And I don't control this stuff, there are people who do. But if you sign up for the free newsletter I'm gonna say that within the first couple of weeks you're gonna get emails, they're gonna say, are you interested in trying out premium membership for, and it's gonna be a significantly discounted price to give you that opportunity to try it and dip your toe in the water.

And Michael says, he gets an email notifications. So it sounds like a lot of people, a lot of you are getting emails from WWGOA to remind you of this. That's cool. It's interesting that, so far anyway, nobody has mentioned having heard about it via Facebook or Instagram or Twitter, social media stuff. All right, I'm just refreshing my page.

Tom says for sawdust removal he uses his green bin. Oh, grass clippings and tree limbs, and it gets picked up. There, so Dave in Stillwater heard about it on Twitter. He just made he a liar over saying nobody said social media. Ian got an email.

And he's in the UK, that's very cool. So Ian, are you gonna go to the big Maker Faire over there? It is the first weekend in May. Boy, I wish I were going. It's gonna be a blast.

I think it's in Manchester, but I'm not 100% sure, but there's a huge maker event that's going on in the UK. Mark and Marilyn, will there be a rebroadcast? Missed at the beginning. Yeah, it's always archived on WWGOA and on the YouTube. So every live we have ever done it, and I think this is year three maybe or four, all of that stuff is archived.

Have you ever needed to sell tools? And where do you do that? Yeah, I've sold stuff. I just put them on Craigslist. Post pictures.

It's great if you have the owner's manual, that's very valuable. But yeah, I just put it on Craigslist. And now Facebook too there are a lot of communities and I don't mean like a town, but there are sales communities on Facebook that'll let you post stuff for sale there too. Thurman's got some two inch by 60 inch by 10 inch wide walnut twisted and warped. What procedure would you use to salvage as much of it as possible?

I have everything but a jointer. Well, get a jointer. But 10 inch, that's pretty wide. So another way to do it is what are called winding sticks, which I own and I'm not gonna be able to find them, 'cause I don't use them very often, 'cause I do own a jointer. But you can do it with winding sticks and a handheld planer.

We've got an article on the site that Dave Munkittrick did where he leveled a big slab. I think the project was a natural edge table and the slab was huge. So he goes through the process of what he does to take off the high spots using a handheld planer, which is cheaper than a jointer. And I'm not sure if he uses winding sticks or another approach to eyeball it for flat. But it'd be worth having a look for that article.

David says, is there ever a time when hide glue is a must? Most musical instruments are put together with hide glue and the reason is you can then take them apart later if you wanna do a repair. Some veneering is done with hide glue for the same reason. With heat and steam you can easily disassemble the hide glue and then do repairs. Gary says, do they make combination up cut down cut blades for jigsaws like they do scroll saws?

Not that I have ever seen. Ajay says he uses Titebond III for his canoe paddles, which are beautiful by the way, which is a five-layer glue up. So there's a little info on that bent lamination glue choice thing. Wanna join the video membership, any specials less than $40? I don't have a coupon code, but like I said, if you get on the free newsletter you're gonna get emails that say here are some specials on a year membership.

Best protection to put on tools for storage in my tool chest? Well, wax, just regular carnauba-based paste wax. You can rub that on there. If you wanna do aerosol, Bostik, could you look into as finishing cabinet, Jenny? And the Bostik should be right there.

And then you could spray it. I think maybe right above your line of sight where all those aerosol cans are. GlideCote is what it's called. There we go. So this is the stuff, this is the product.

This is the product that I spray on my tools to help things slide more easily. And also it, because it seals them up, it also prevents rust. Mark says he framed his oak table tabletop with one by twos. Corners have started to pull away. Oh, so if you, are you saying you did a solid oak top with one by twos on four sides.

So if that's the case then what's probably happening is the field, the solid wood top is shrinking and that's what's making it pull away. You just, you can't do that. You can't band solid wood four sides and not have a problem. 'Cause seasonally the wood is gonna move. So the repair really would be take the banding off and leave just the top.

Ryder's got some info on sawdust there. Belmont, California, favorite finish for cherry? Don't have a sprayer. There are a lot of great wipe-on products out there. Wipe-on water-based finishes from Aqua Coat is a brand I use all the time.

That works really good. I'm gonna do one more question. And then I wanna go back to the jointer and talk through this how do I joint stuff wider than the jointer? So Howard says, I've got an antique bedroom set. Some of the strips veneer have buckled.

Yeah, this is a bad question for me to pick, 'cause I'm not a furniture, I'm not a big veneer guy, and I'm definitely not a furniture restoration guy. So sorry, Howard, I am not the guy to answer this. And digging bone says, O'Keeffe's hand cream, better than Gold Bond. All right, I'll look it up, I'll try it. Neutrogena hand cream.

There's all sorts of choices here. All right, then I'm gonna go back to trap shooter here. Or there's two more questions, so I'll do all of these. Friction plugs are for turning salt and pepper mills. You drill a hole for the grinder, friction plug to mount the block.

So I guess I would say then I understand where you're going with that. So then what's making the plug eccentric? Are you're mounting it into a four jaw chuck? 'Cause if it's in a chuck and it's being turned, so that it then fits into the hole, somewhere in there something's going wrong with the procedure to make it come out of round. And I don't know what that would be.

I guess I would check, make sure your tools are sharp. I've seen that happen where with dull tools you're pushing too hard and the turning deflects away from them, and then that can make it become a little bit eccentric. So that'd be the first thing I would try. But I'd also like to know how you're mounting the plugs. Bruce, we just answered the planer jointer question a little bit ago.

So go back and watch the archived version. Errol is in Belgium. That's very cool. Hello, Errol. The best joint for cabinets is I use dados and rabbets to put cabinets together all the time.

Very, very solid way to build cabinets. All right, it's a little after eight and I wanna wrap this up. But, Jenny, let's head to the jointer and I'll talk through. This is so short, but I'm gonna grab this other board. So you're gonna need to be kind of over here.

So here's the procedure for this. And I gotta give credit where credit is due. I actually, Matt Cremona is the guy who I saw do this the first time. And it works like a champ. So the bottom line is your board is wider than the head of your jointer.

I just surfaced a bunch of stuff for a kitchen table I'm making myself this way. You have to take the guard off. So you gotta be super, super careful. You're gonna take the guard off. And then this super wide board, the board wider than your jointer, gets passed over the cutter head, passed over the counter head.

And then intuitively what you know is that what we're gonna do is we're gonna cut here, but there's gonna be a portion that never gets cut. You do not turn the board. You allow that to continue to happen. So when this has been done, this portion of the board only will be flat and straight. You're cutting a really, really, really big rabbet.

This part's gonna be flat and straight. There's gonna be a ledge over here that's not flat and straight. Next step, this board goes to your planer, which is right here. When it goes through the planer. Let me, hold please.

You stay there. When it goes to the planer you take another board that you know has two parallel faces, which means you've already sent this through the planer. That goes under the flat area and you send all of this through together. So what's happening is this board that's underneath is holding this ledge up off of the deck of the planer, so that you're registering only off of the flat face that you've produced. Once you have the top flat, then you can flip it over and plane off that ledge that you left behind.

So that's a great way. And thanks to Matt Cremona. Matt Cremona is a great content creator, if you've not seen his stuff, you should have a look at it. So thanks to Matt Cremona for teaching me that trick. That is it for us.

Jenny, any parting wisdom from you? You got nothing? No great jokes. All right, we're gonna sign off. So a couple of things before we do, remember, thanks to Titebond, our sponsor, for bringing this to you for free.

We will be back a month from now. It's always the second Tuesday. No, sorry, second Thursday. What difference does the day make when you're self-employed? The second Thursday of every month is our live at 7:00 p.m.

Central time. We've also added another live event you should know about. Every two weeks on Facebook on the WWGOA page at 11:00 a.m. in the morning. At 11:00 a.m.

we do a live there that's about 30 minutes long. And that's kind of a catch-up. I walk through projects I'm doing in my shop. So live on Facebook every other week, it was today, so it's gonna be two weeks from now on Facebook again. Second Thursday of every month on here, 7:00 p.m..

Other than that, ready to punch out? All right, thanks, Sam, behind the scenes here, making everything happen smoothly. Thanks to you for tuning in. See you when I look at you, bye.