Master woodworker George Vondriska demonstrates the process of turning a cylinder for your woodworking projects by using a router. A WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video.
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6:00Captive Ring Out of Spindle Turning
There aren’t many woodworking techniques that will draw more ooh’s and aah’s from your woodworking buddies than a captive ring turned on a spindle. George Vondriska demonstrates the mysterious technique in this clip. A WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video.
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1:32Anti-Dust Finishing Tip
Most woodworkers have some airborne dust and particulates floating in their shop, and some of those particles can settle on a not-quite-dried finish. George Vondriska demonstrates a neat and inexpensive trick for protecting small woodworking projects from dust when finishing. A WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video.
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5:23Plunge vs. Fixed Based Routers
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2:10Build a Cribbage Board
George Vondriska and A.J. Moses discuss the process for making a cribbage board from scrap wood in your woodworking shop. These cribbage board plans are included in the WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video. Read the article Make a Cribbage Board with Peg Storage to get step-by-step instructions and a cut list for this…
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How about using a battery operated drill instead of the hand crank?
Would you make a smaller box for shorter pieces? It seems the size of the blank is limited by the length of the box and the length of the spindles.
I wouldn’t use a blank shorter than 27″ (9″ shorter than the jig) in this version of the jig. If you do, you’ll be asking the threaded rod to provide more support than it’s capable of. Shorter blanks call for a shorter jig.
The stops on the sled allow it to move forward and back on top of the box. Why wouldn’t you want the sled to simply be centered over the box, in order to cut right down the middle of the workpiece? Wouldn’t that give you a more consistent diameter?
Great jig. I’m really looking forward to trying this. Thanks
Hi, David. Having some lateral movement in the router’s travel path allows for some imperfections how you’ve centered the work piece. You will also be able to work more efficiently with this lateral movement, covering a wider path with each pass while you are in the early phases of rounding the work piece. As long as your jig is constructed in a square and level fashion, the lateral movement will not negatively affect the diameter consistency.
George, you have already answered the lateral movement issue that I had, but while you are moving the router, I noticed you were keeping it tight against the edge on your side. At that point, is the router bit centered on the workpiece?
Yep, the router bit needs to stay centered over the work piece, and that’s controlled by the router’s position on the box.
This is a good idea, but it could be improved with some gears and a threaded rod. The idea being to make the router platform perform like the carriage on a metal lathe, which would provide for smoother, more uniform cuts. A slow speed motor could be an additional feature.
If you left the shaft protrude past the crank handle, you could chuck a variable speed drill on the shaft and have it turn the piece while you have two hands free to sand.
This is a fantastic Jig! I don’t know who came up with this, but they deserve a drink on me!
How is it for making small diameter cylinders, such as dowel rods?
Threaded T-Nuts at the Dead Center end with a jamb nut would make it a bit easier.
Also, a removable crank so you can put the threaded rod into a drill would make sanding easier.
You mentioned a 3/4 router bit. What shape/ type of bit are you using?
Nice, I enjoyed this newer to this so gives me some ideas… Thamks