WWGOA LIVE! April 2019

Working on it. Hopefully we're getting there. All right, I see myself on my laptop, which is frightening. Let me just do a check with with Sam behind the scenes here. And I'm coming right back.

All right sorry about that. It's weird. We've had this system going pretty well for a few months now and all of a sudden tonight there's, cameras connected to a box. The box is connected to the interwebs, blah, blah, blah and suddenly the box didn't wanna communicate with the worldwide web. So enough of that, let's jump in.

John says, and a welcome to a snowy Thursday night here in Wisconsin. Oh my gosh, what a weather calamity we had. So I will preface our event with this. The weather is so crazy. I am flying solo tonight.

It was advisable for Jenny. She lives about 20 miles from here. And the weather is so hinky. We got like 12 inches of snow, a bunch of ice, really, really high winds. And it was just not a good night for her to drive here for this.

So I will move the camera on my own. That's why Jenny's not here. Okay. And just checking, okay. Let me do one more thing.

I'm back. John says, sorry about this. I hate these technical problems. I want us to start at seven and mostly. I just ordered a small jointer or did I order a Can you explain the difference?

So the right word. Let's do a show and tell. The right word for Hold me up. For that thing. That Laguna tool, right there, is a jointer with a T in there.

And the reason for that jointer, is that we use it very commonly to create glue joints. So jointer John is the right terminology for that. Joiner biscuit like a biscuit joiner, that's a different thing because we're joining pieces. But the jointer is for creating joints. So there should be a T in there.

Question, is there an easy way to make dovetails or is it just a matter of practice? Would you recommend a dovetail router jig? So, easy way to make dovetails. There's a lot of it depends. There are people who very much want to cut all their dovetails by hand.

And cutting dovetails by hand is a pretty difficult procedure. But it can be mastered. Playing guitar is difficult, playing piano is difficult. A lot of things are difficult, but if you practice them enough, you'll get proficient at it. So with dovetails, a shortcut to success, I think is using a router jig.

That being said, there can be some limitations with router jigs for instance, many router jigs have combs. The fingers that your router follows in fixed positions. And you can't carry that. If you lay it out and cut it by hand, or you do bandsaw dovetails, which I did on Facebook live today, you can create whatever spacing you want. Even when we get to a router and a dovetail jig there are things you need to know.

There are things that you need to learn. So it's not, what I don't like about some aspects of woodworking, is like what I've called the gizmo of woodworking. Some of you might've heard me say this before. Which is, if I just buy this thing, then I'll be really good at this. And the analogy I often use, is I play acoustic guitar.

And if I buy a $5,000 Martin guitar, instead of $160 Walmart guitar, it'll be easier to play, but it doesn't make me a better guitar player. I still have to practice. So dovetail jig, hand-cut regardless of your approach, it's gonna take some practice. There's no super easy pay after that. If you had a small shop, say 12 by 16, what four or five tools would you recommend must haves?

Okay, so I'm gonna answer and the second part of the question is, I purchase a lot of rough lumber and have a planer. Would you recommend a jointer or is it okay to join boards with a table saw or a router? So we can answer two questions together here. Because in my list of four or five tools you should have, table saw easy, router table, handheld router, random orbit sander, well I didn't really know what number I'm on, I'm not really counting. Part of the benefit to a router table is you can edge joint on a router table.

So you can get a lot of not just double duty out of a router table, but like quadruple bazillion to duty out of a router table. 'Cause they're so versatile. There's so much you can do. So those are the main tools I'd put in. And if I didn't have a jointer and I'd say, especially if you're working with pieces commonly that are four feet long and less, you could plane them.

And then you could do your edge jointing on a router table. Someday probably wanna go into a jointer, because the benefit of face jointing before planning, is knowing you're getting your material dead, dead, dead and that's a really good thing. So eventually I have a joiner on the list somewhere. But you can go without it for a while. Bill says, I have a piece of Koa that I'm unable to prevent excessive tear out.

It's tearing out, even with the scraper or sandpaper, what would be the best method to fill these areas? It's a unique piece of wood I'd like to save it. Any suggestions? Boy, I've never heard of wood tearing with sandpaper. My go-to on dicey woods is to send them through my SuperMax, my sander, instead of my planer.

To fill these areas, man, I mean if they're big chunks torn out, I don't know how you're gonna not make it obvious. I would experiment in a really small spot with CA glue. Cyanoacrylate glue. Cyanoacrylate mixed with little Koa sawdust and see how that does for you. That might be the most benign way to fill those spots in.

What's the difference between a hardback or flex back bandsaw blade? I do not know. Robert asks need to make drawer slides, any suggestions? I've never made drawer slides. So, nope, sorry.

Norman asks, I've been adding hand planes to my Shopsmith arsenal, how do you integrate this hybrid into your woodworking? I don't do often. I taught nothing but hand tool joinery in Africa with Peace Corps for almost three years. When I got back, I fell right back into my power tool addiction. Now that being said, I recently bought a lovely Lei-Nielsen block plane.

I wanna say it's a $1.20 or something like that. I love this little guy. I use a block plane a lot. My friend Paul Mayer who also writes and does video for WWGOA. He's way more of a hands on guy, and he's more likely, he's more prone than I to, if he's got a big table top, he might hand playing that surface.

At this stage for me and my woodworking, it doesn't happen. So I'm not a great one to answer your question. I like using hand tools here and there, but I don't do a bunch of it. So I don't know. Marc Spagnoulo, who's the wood whisper.

He's got a book called "Hybrid woodworking" and it's all about the crossover. Marc's a real nice guy. The book is all about crossing over your power tool and your hand tool. Selection collections and having them augment each other. So that "Hybrid woodworking" book, a look.

Hello AJ, David says I live in Florida. I recently built a flip top cart to Mount my thickness planer and miter saw, my first experience using what I got, thought was good plywood, two 4 by 8 sheets of Birch for 53 bucks a piece. Was disappointed at the outer layers are extremely thin. Lamination zone appear to have had much glue, warping and then help please. Well, Home Center plywood is Home Center plywood.

Here in Wisconsin, Red Oak plywood from Home Centers is about 45 bucks a sheet. Red Oak plywood I get from my hardwood and plywood supplier. Is about 60 bucks a sheet and it's 80 billion times better. Better core quality, better veneer, thicker veneer. So my recommendation would be, there's spots where using that low end plywood, you might be okay getting away with it.

But in most cases really what you wanna do, look for a hardwood supplier that sells plywood and call them, ask them if you can go in and retail buy one or two or three sheets. So you don't have to buy a huge stack of it. But you will be so impressed with what you get from that kind of a source. Also, it'd be nice to have three quarter inch plywood. That's three quarter that ain't ever gonna happen.

And I'm okay with that, because think about the process. So when you make plywood, we're gonna take all these internal cores, like seven of them, and go one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, build them up. So there are certain thickness. Then we're gonna put glue in there. And then we're gonna put a piece of veneer on there, that's like a 24th of an inch thick.

So to get all that, to add up to exactly three quarter forget about it. It's gonna be really tough to have happen. Plywood is under size and it's gonna be under size, and that's something we just have to work around. Dan says, I look at dedicated wood lathe and compare them to a Shopsmith and wonder how sturdy in large turnings, such as 12 inch diameter is the Shopsmith compared to dedicated lathes. Yeah, I own Shopsmiths' for a really long time.

And yes, I'm saying that plurally on purpose. Hang on i got to throw a note on YouTube, 'cause the video is not playing there. So I'm just gonna let people know. I'm giving them a link so they can come join us here. Okay.

All right. And I did a lot of turning on the shop. That's what I really like about it is, the variable speed is crazy cool. It could go slower. I think the low end on the Shopsmith is about 500 RPM.

Plenty of high end speed. Power is okay. I think it's a one horse motor in there, if I remember right. There are very light. So I very quickly in my turning got into green wood turning.

And that often means like, I'm grabbing a chunk. This maple bowl and its first life was a log from the compost pile. So when this goes on to the lathe, it's pretty eccentric, it's pretty out around. The Shopsmith isn't great for that. I remember throwing sandbags across it just to help it sit while I was getting something roughed out.

But they're honestly not a bad lathe. Up to 12 inches in diameter, that's pretty good. You know, you'll be okay there. Especially if you take the time to really round out your blank before you start turning. Brian says, the other day you had a post about your router dado jig, could you show it on video?

Router dado jig? I can't. If you're still on Brian, give me a little more info. 'Cause I can't. I'm looking around at jigs hanging on the walls and I I probably got 10 jigs that use a router and cut a dado.

So if you've got a little more info that can zero it in, we'll go from there. Matthew says, I've asked your support staff, but how do you manage cutting diagrams, calculating for curve when cutting boards for projects? I don't really, I mean, on sheet goods. I use CutList Plus. Bridgewood Design is the company.

Software company, CutList Plus is the particular software. So if I'm doing a kitchen, that's gonna have lots and lots and lots of case parts in it, cut from sheet goods, I put all those parts into the CutList software and I press go and it lays them all out on the sheets. When I'm just working with boards, then I just do it as I go. So I need whatever pieces that are three inches wide and 42 inches long for rails on a table. I grab a piece of wood.

Am I gonna get one rail of this, two rails out of this, cut and go. So I'm not like compensating for curve, I'm just measuring the board. And if I need two, three inch pieces, I know the board has gotta be like six and a half to have enough allowance. So I'm just doing that very quickly in my head. I don't do any kind of specific layout.

Well, Daniel, I got a mess with the computer, 'cause that's how I communicate. So it's how I double check to make sure, the whole system is working. Rodney says, wondering if you could talk about finishing a live edge bowl still on the lathe or not. Live edge bowl. So here's one, that's got a nice saddle shape to it.

So I don't know. Talk about finishing it on the lathe. I mean, that's what I always do. So I guess maybe if where you're going with this is, these things are zinging around, how do you do your finishing? So with something that's this much of a natural rim, I'll probably get a lot of finish on here while it's not turning and then do some polishing while it's spinning.

This is a live edge on this one. This is still the outside of the tree. And that one I'm comfortable to have that running while I do everything. Is that what you're looking for Rodney? If you have any concern about, you know the edges are irregular and it's gonna catch your hand, then just finish it by hand, without the lathe running.

Rub the finish and rub the finish out, but don't run the machine. Steve and asks, what's the best glue for moderate gap filling. It's really, Epoxy is the best way to go. Cyanoacrylate has some gap filling. CA glue has some gap filling capabilities, but yeah, if you've got gappisty, so here's the deal.

Yellow glues like this, will gap fill up to about three thousands of an inch. About the thickness of a piece of paper. Polyurethane glue, which is the stuff that to have moisture present. Polyurethane glue, it's gotta have moisture present in order to cure. This'll gap fill up to about 12,000.

So four pieces of paper. But if you've got something that's really gappier than that, two-part epoxy is the best way to go. How can I get a plate for my Delta table saw that is an eighth inch thick? Like an insert? Eighth inch hardboard.

Planing a piece of hard maple or some other hardwood to eighth inch. I dunno, that'd be table insert. I'd probably lean more toward a piece of hardwood, like hard maple than I would Masonite for that. Amber says, I've got a flat top tooth blade, flat top grind I guess. For my table saw for narrow rabbit cuts for a jigsaw table I'm making.

Cuts a nice clean slot. Is this blade limited in use, due to the nature of the teeth? I noticed after cutting wood shaving to adhere to the teeth at times. No, I've got a flat top grind. Let me see if it's right here, I'll grab it.

Yeah, so my flat top here I come. My flat top grind is a rip blade, 24 tooth rip blade. And I also use it. So the benefit to this is that, if we look at the top of the teeth, flat top grind, FTG, the teeth are in fact flat. So on an alternate top bevel, you've got tooth to the left, tooth to the right, tooth to lathe.

There's a very typical traditional set to the teeth. If you cut a groove with that, it's not flat bottom. Now, if it's an internal groove, that nobody's gonna see, who cares? If you're cutting slots for splines in the corner of a box, it's gonna be ugly with an alternate top bevel, because the spline you push in there, isn't gonna seat in the bottom. Same thing with a triple chip.

The triple chip tooth which is kind of tombstone shaped is typically a little higher than the rest of the teeth. And so it leaves that detent, that indentation in the bottom of the curve. So a flat top grind will leave you a perfectly flat bottomed curve, great for splaining. Additionally, I also use this for just general ripping. So on your blade, as long as it's the right blade, you know again, that's a 24 tooth blade.

So it's designed to be blade and it's a flat type grind. So just depending on what your tooth count is, you could use it for other stuff. My table saw has been starting to act up to the point I have to push or pull my wood through. I have a new blade in any suggestions? I would check the fence.

If the blade is good, maybe your fence is out of alignment with the blade. And that the other thing that would cause that binding. Oh, John says, the audio is breaking up. Is that it. Anybody else I'm scrolling down fast to see if anybody else says.

I'm just checking my connections. And then I'm gonna do this. Sometimes what sounds like the mic breaking up, is if the lab here rubbing, so let me just do a redo. And we'll see. Sorry if that's rubbing like crazy and making you nuts.

We'll try that. All right, Alan says with wood suppliers, Lowe's is basically it here in Eastern and North Carolina near Starbucks suppliers, three hours away. Well, yeah so that's unfortunate then. Myself I've intentionally moved away from Home Center plywood. I used to buy it for all my classes, and then I've moved away from it just because of the quality issues that you're talking about.

Jim says, can you edge joint a long board on a router table? I haven't been able to make it work, I always get a bow. So you can, and it's as a general rule of thumb. And that's why when I was talking about using the router tables as a jointer earlier, I said, if you're using stuff up to about four feet long, that's somewhere around there is your limitation. I would say, if you take the length of your fence, router table fence, and approximately double it or so, that's about the longest board you can do.

So when Jim says can you edge joint a long board, if you're talking about eight feet, probably not. 'Cause the fence is so short. So even on a jointer and pointing to mine. Even on a jointer, if you have a bench top jointer, that's only this long, you can't joint eight foot stock. Because it's basically, you have such a short, straight surface that all you're gonna do is follow the board.

That's why you need a longer bed. That's the benefit to a longer bed. Evangelists says, what's the advantage of Odie's oil over tung oil. I have zero idea, I've never heard of Odie's oil. Brian says the router jig for cutting dados, for shelves.

Well, I'll pull it out. If I just gotta think. Well Jenny did a bunch of cleaning when I was recently out of town. So some things are moved around a little, let me look. Let's try this one.

While I dropped stuff. I was teaching down in Indianapolis, what a great experience that was. But I was gone for about a week and boy did Jenny do a great job while I was gone. Taking care of the shop one, getting work done, two and cleaning. She did a lot of organizing.

So is this the one you mean Brian? The way this one works, dado jig. You use it in conjunction with a pattern style router bit. So the leaf on this side is fastened to the head. So that's permanently fixed.

And this has to be perfectly perpendicular. Then on this side, when I loosen this and this, we can open this or close it. So the way it works is, whatever you're using as your shelf, you put in here, squeeze, lock it in place and you create this gutter, this hole, that's exactly the width of your part. Exactly the thickness of your part. And then pattern style bit, It's got a bearing on the top.

The cutter below it is exactly the same diameter. So when we use that to cut this, we're just tracing the gutter. And as a result, you're gonna get a perfectly sized dado. This one is long enough that I can get a 24 inch piece in between 'cause base cupboards, kitchen cabinet, base cabinets are typically 23 and a quarter inches deep. So it's long enough to accommodate a 23 and a quarter inch, 23 and a quarter inch carcass.

But that's the gist of how it works. And you wanna use a pattern style bit that's slightly smaller in diameter than the thickness of what you're cutting for. So for typical three quarter inch plywood stuff I use a five eight inch diameter pattern bit. Phil says one of the major problems in Oklahoma is finding wood. As you just said, Home Center plywood isn't great.

What do you suggest? I would call cabinet shops. Because I'm pretty sure cabinet shops building custom kitchen cabinets are not buying their stuff from Home Centers. And one you can ask them where they get their material. Two ask them if they'll sell a sheet or two.

They're probably buying a unit of plywood, is depending on what it is. Somewhere around 40 sheets, 45 sheets. So a big cabinet shop could be buying 45 sheets at a time, which also means they're getting really good pricing. So ask them if they can sell you a sheet or two and go from there. What's the project you are most proud of?

Yes, I don't know. You know, I've been asked this a bunch of times. And I don't think I have an answer, because when I make something, it's like in that moment, I mean, I've got stuff I've screwed up that I forgot about. But in that moment with that project that's going well, it's this, you know, it's sort of a Zen thing. You get wrapped up in the project and then you're proud of it when it's done.

So the crib I made, which was a Rockler plan, that all three of my kids slept in, that was very cool. The 15 foot fishing boat I built in the mid eighties, that was really cool. This bowl was really cool 'cause it wasn't spalted when I put the wood away. So that was a really neat aspect of that. I did a Bombay style chest of drawers, for Minwax at one point for an advertising campaign, that was cool.

I was asked to teach at the Pentagon for a couple of years, that was pretty cool. So there's just, everything has got its thing, you know? And as that part of that project, whatever that thing is, is really neat. I don't think I could pick a thing. Ideal location on a custom made router table for the center of a router from the edge of the table.

Every router table I've ever had, it's just centered. So if the table is 24 by 30, the router bits coming up at 12 and 15. Stan says I was gonna suggest CutList and CutList bridge for SketchUp. Yeah, I haven't tried that. I'm using SketchUp, but I haven't tried.

I haven't tried the cut diagram part of SketchUp yet. I gotta do that. Can you recommend a top coat, low odor, low VOC. I'm using, I'll show you what I'm using. I just sprayed some today.

Let me run and get it. I'm coming right back. It's cool, with the microphone I guess you can hear me no matter where I am. So I'm not like a finishing chemist. That's my qualifier.

But I do know what I've had good success with. The whole like low VOC thing, I don't know. I honestly don't know. But this stuff, this is a water-based finish. Excuse me, Aqua coat, is the manufacturer.

They make brushable products. I spray their stuff through my HVLP gun. But it can also be brushed. And it's got, well here, smell it. That working, can you smell it?

I used a spray catalyzed Lacquer, which is a Lacquer thinner based blacker. The odor was horrific. This stuff has very, very low odor. Like I said, the VOC thing I don't know. You could ask them.

It's available on Amazon. It is a water-based product. So cleanup is really easy. I've used it on a lot of different projects and I've been really happy with it. Ian says, I love GOA sessions like this.

Why do I get so many daily emails? Yeah, I'm with you. There's too many, I don't know. That's the thing, it's just an advertising thing. That, it is what it is.

Good quality stack dado set, CMT, Freud, Infinity. There's three. Matthew, still not clear on how you transfer a picture of a cutting diagram in a magazine and calculate for the curve. I'll just play with it. Yeah don't overthink it.

Ron says any recommendations for a durable finish on an outdoor picnic table? Wood will be Beetle Kill Pine. I'd like to keep the look of the Beetle Kill, so relatively clear. I don't know. I always say I'm not much of a finishing guy.

Here's what I would do. I would run, go to in your area. Like Sherwin-Williams is a paint chain. Hirshfield is around here. I don't know if they're nationwide or not, but I'm pretty sure Sherwin Williams is.

And ask them this very question. There's a couple things like, I think last month somebody said, they were like in Arizona and they were asking a question about this. And the part of the deal is that your zone praying so many different facets, to the finishing thing that I don't have to deal with. And mine brings aspects to it that you don't have to deal with. Like the fact that it's freezing, snowy sleety rain on April, whatever today is 11th, but an Arizona in a month it's gonna be 120 degrees.

It is not here. So stuff like, you know, low-hanging fruit is to give you an answer like spar varnish. It's got a pretty strong Amber to it, but it's used on ships mass. So it's highly durable. But there could very well be other products in the marketplace.

And that's why I'm saying, at a specialty store like a Sherwin Williams, they're gonna have their fingers on the latest, good cutting edge, finishing technology and make better recommendations for you. Michael says, table saw blades, what do you recommend for a flat bottom cut? Well, this one, this Freud, I've had it for a long time. It is a Freud L M like Larry, Mary, seven, two R like rodeo, 010, 24 tooth rip blade, flat bottom grind. Oh sorry flat top grind.

All right Brian is sending a link. Yeah, that's the one I showed you. That's this one right here, for dados daddy-O. Can you recommend a good 14 inch band saw that accommodates resign? Let's do a little walking around, just so I'm not boring into a standing in one spot.

No, no, no, no, no, no. Come with me to the Casbah. Who said that, was that movie line? I've had the Laguna 14 BX band for, I dunno quite a while now, long time. So I'm not, you know, in the world of recommending tools part of the problem is I don't do tool tests.

So I'm not out there everyday looking at, I mean RIKON makes a good band saw. I'm suddenly drawing a blank on other band saw manufacturing, Powermatic makes it really good band saw. So I'm not here to say the Laguna outshines all of them, but I can say statistic of one, I've had great success. It's a 14 BX. I've had great luck with it.

I've cut logs on it, but I've cut into lumber. So that's certainly pushing recycling about as hard as it can. I too, while we're betwixt in between, I'm gonna say thank you to Titebond, for sponsoring and keeping this stuff free for everybody. Steven says, what are standard measurements for upper and lower cabinets? Well, uppers are typically 12 inch uppers, 24 inch lowers, if you're talking about kitchen cabinets.

And then uppers if you want to have an upper cabinet and space above it, they're usually 30 inches tall. If you want them to go all the way to the ceiling and suck tight to the ceiling, then typically that's 42 inches tall, but measure your room. 'Cause that could change a little bit. And then, well I got to think a second. Height of the lowers, don't hold me to this.

This bench is 34, that's about right. I think I wanna say the cabinet is around 32 and then with inch and a half countertop on it, that'd be 33 and a half. But double check the height of the lowers. But 12 inches deep for uppers, 24 inches deep for lowers. The 30 inch height and 42 inch height for uppers, I'm confident on.

Johnny says don't understand how to use the jig you just demonstrated. I'll give you one more little blow by blow here. So let me move the camera. All right, so there's our jig. And we're gonna lay that.

We're eventually gonna have this on a, there's my monitor in there. We're eventually gonna have this on a piece of plywood that we wanna cut a dado in daddy-O. So let me get something that looks like a piece of plywood. You're gonna do that. And let me see if I can quickly find the right router bit.

Okay, that was lucky. This side is fixed to the head perfectly 90 degrees. So when I put this up against the edge of my plywood and I do this, this is automatically perpendicular to this edge. This leaf is automatically perpendicular. This is the stuff, not plywood.

But if we're working with plywood, it would be. This is the stuff I wanna cut the dado for it. So that goes in between the two leaves, close this one, lock the wing nut. Do it on this end, close it, lock the wing nut. Now see how snug that is.

The distance between these two leaves is exactly the thickness of this material. You do the cutting with, I'm gonna zoom if I can get it to stand. You do the cutting with a pattern style router bit, like that. On a pattern bit, that's a ball bearing. The ball-bearing is exactly the same diameter as the cutter.

So now in this gutter, this trough, when I traced this, when I cut it with the router bit, the bearing is gonna ride that, ride that edge cut, resulting in a dado that's exactly the width of our stuff. I'm gonna run in there and get it, 'cause it's cool. But if you follow me on Instagram, you would have seen the caricature that a guy did for me. Hang on, it's funny. 'Cause it's figured into the live.

The story with it is, I taught in Indianapolis a year ago and a caricaturists was there taking woodworking classes. And then I went back this year and he handed me a gift and there it is. Isn't that cool? So he took, I mean, look at the background, here we are. So he did a screen capture from one of these lives, and then drew the caricature over the screen capture.

He's a little heavy on band-aids on the hands, but that happens. I have these fingers buddy taped for a long time because of a little unwoodworking related accident. And that's where is that? That's on that hand right there. The buddy tape is on there.

So isn't that cool? He did a great job. Okay, I just built my work bench outfeed table and I wanna add a T-track system to the top. I noticed the one in your table, only runs the width and not the length. I was gonna run the length and width, do, do, do.

Do you ever wish you had T-track running both ways? So far for me, only crossway's been good. I just watched a little bit of video from John Malecki, really good content creator. He's doing what you're doing outfeed table and T-track table. And he's got them going both ways.

I don't know if I did this again tomorrow, it would give you more apps. I wouldn't be adverse to have and long ways, a couple. I think one in the middle wouldn't be right. I think like one foot in from this edge and one foot in from that edge, this is a four by eight table, would be about right. So I don't miss it hugely.

But if I did this bench again tomorrow, I'd probably put a couple long ways. Thinking of buying a new miter saw, I have a radial arm saw in my shop for cutting wide panels. What are your thoughts on a sliding miter versus bevel saw? I don't know what a bevel saw is. Sliding miter saws are great.

I'm looking at mine, 12 inch or so capacity. And I like it way better than, way safer than your radial arm saw. Price a consideration, how important is the size of a jointer six versus eight? Eight is better. I had six inch jointers in my shop forever.

For a really, really long time. So I opened my first shop of my own in 98 and had six inch jointers throughout. In 2015, so do the math, however many years that is. I switched to the eight inch jointer I have now. And I wish I had done it earlier.

I always understood the benefit of face jointing, but with the six inch jointer, really couldn't do much of that. With the eight inch jointer, I face joint all the time. And I love it. It does improve the quality of the output, because you know you're getting one flat face. Dan says, do you welcome dropping fans and visitors?

Not dropping, no. Call first, call or email, then we'll figure it out. It's always crazy busy here. I work a lot of hours. So just dropping in isn't a good idea.

But people are welcome to come, but I need to know ahead of time, if you're gonna. One, I might not be here. I teach out of town. About at least once a month I'm gone, so. We are rocking the calves by.

How do you cut a log for non bowl lathe work? Non bowl lathe, so you just wanna a spindle, like you want a two by two? I would do, if you look on goa.com there are videos that are logs to lumber. And unfortunately my log jig, my sled is at the other side of the shop. 'Cause I had it over there when I was using it.

But you need to watch that video, logs to lumber. And on a band saw you can easily rip a log and then, once you've got it sectioned, you can cut it into whatever size blanks you want. But you need that jig to prevent a log from rolling while your band sawing it. Can you really trust plywood to be straight edge and square? If not, how do you reliably use the track saw?

So, no, I never trust plywood to be square or a straight edge. I always eliminate the factory, I just trim my cuts. So with a track saw what I would do, so here this is a four by eight sheet. This tabletop is a four by eight bench. So what I would do, is look at the other end of the bench.

Is I start with a square and from an edge, I'll mark the edge. That's the one I'm starting with. And then I put the square on that edge and draw a line. So my first cut with the T-track, with saw in that direction is on that line. And it's now square to this edge.

The reason we mark the edge is because, square to this edge doesn't mean we're square to that edge. So we gotta keep track of this. Then my next cut on that piece, is gonna be to take this edge off. I'm gonna use a square again in this direction and I'm gonna cut that way. Now I have eliminated the factory edge and with the tracks, I've produced two 90 degree edges.

And then from there you can start doing your cutting, whether its track saw or a table saw. Now you've got a 90 degree corner, you can work outward from there and everything else should come out. I don't have a lathe and had to make a four foot red Oak rod, two inches diameter, built the router lathe. You did a session on ever some practice and a bit of reconfiguring and automation, which is always good. It worked out great.

Thanks, yeah, that was a cool, the router like turning a dowel in a jig with that, turn it by hand and then run a router over the top to make it round, it was fun. Jim says, JET makes a great 14 inch band saw, that's true. That's why I was hesitant to start throwing brands out there. 'Cause I knew I'd forget 8,000 of them. How would you cut dados in the top for the tree trucks where everything is perfect?

Build a jig? No, when I did this, these T-tracks are almost all three eights by three quarter. And the three eighths doesn't really matter, that's just depth. But all I did was I located the T-track. I won't be here.

And then on my router, I put in the three-quarter inch bit, I measured to the edge of the base and it was some number, three inches. So if I wanted the T-track here, I measured over three inches, over three inches, clamped a board as a straight edge. And I just trace the, let the base of the router run along the edge of that board. And that's how I routed in the track. You don't need to go so far as to build a jig or anything.

You just need a straight edge, big, long fence. You can follow. Yeah, AJ is chiming in on the 14 inch band saw and then added a riser block. So yeah, they they're a good one too. All right.

I was scrolling over a little bit, just to make sure I'm not missing anything. Rick says, is it necessary to have a standalone planer? Here's there money better spent on other shop tools? It depends. I had zero planer in my shop for I dunno, the first couple of years I was open.

And admittedly it was a pain to not have, like if I needed half inch stock, I was resigned three quarter inch stock and then using a belt sander to take the bandsaw on marks off. And not getting perfectly parallel, perfectly flat faces. There were a lot of downsides to that. So you can go without a planer, if you can go without a planer. But if you need a planer, then you need a planer.

So it depends in large part on, what kind of woodworking you're doing. And if you're primarily a lathe person, you probably never need a planer. If you're gonna build furniture, you probably almost certainly need a planer. Rodney says, can you talk about finishing green wood so it doesn't split when you're turning on the lathe? So here's what I do.

I have and I was looking for my bowl blanks, there all the way in my garage. So I'm not gonna go get them. When I first picked up this log, there was dripping wet green and I wrapped it. I knew I wasn't gonna get to it right away, so I wrapped it in stretch film. I have an 18 inch wide roll of stretch film.

And I wrapped the blank in that. And then I have an unheated space and the stuff just lives out there. On the plastic, I write the date I brought it in and the moisture content. And then it just sits there and stays wet. So when this went on the lathe, it was dripping wet green.

What I do is I turn it start to finish green. And I'm unusual in this, but it works for me. Now, a by-product of that is stuff like, this, see there's a little split right there. And that doesn't bother me. What happens is that as it dries, it goes a little bit oblong that doesn't bother me either.

There was perfectly round when I was turning it but then it becomes egg shape as it dries. So I just allow that to happen. If you wanna treat your stuff, a product you can buy Rodney is Pentacryl. Woodcraft sells it, I'm not sure Rockler does, but you can Google it. You can buy the stuff online.

Pentacryl is a chemical solution to this problem, which is you soak the blank in Pentacryl before you turn it. And they want you to soak it about a day per inch of thickness of material. So if it's a big blank, it can take a while to soak. But you wanna have complete absorption, and what it does is it displaces the water in the woods cells. So as it dries and the wood leaves the cell, they don't collapse.

It's collapsing cells that caused distortion and cracking. So Pentacryl is a product that you can apply and it'll help prevent that cracking and distorting. Difference between Titebond two and three. So yeah, I don't have either bottle. Oh, I have a three.

There's a three. So Titebond two is water resistant, Titebond three is water proof. So good examples of applications would be, if you're building like an Adirondack chair and it's gonna be outside. And it's gonna get rained on, and the sprinkler is gonna run over it or whatever. Titebond two would be fine for that.

If you're gonna build a planter, where you're building this wooden box, that's gonna have dirt in it. And the dirt is gonna be moist most of the time, water res is waterproof, then Titebond three would be a better choice. If you wanna only inventory one thing in your shop, Titebond three will cover you in all moist applications while Titebond two has some limitations. Titebond two tax faster, dries faster Titebond three, might be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on the complexity of your project. I think the downside of only stocking Titebond three is it's a little more expensive than two.

But they're all FDA approved, they're all FDA food safe. If I'm doing cutting boards, I always use three on those. Not that I hope nobody immerses them or runs them through a dishwasher, but I want to have that higher level of protection. Stan says, I did the same wrapping green Oak planks in stretch film, noticed it looks black under the wrap, thought I had ruined the wood. No, you're probably making it pretty.

If I'm watching it and it starting to look gross in there, it's probably, now there's a finite part of gross 'cause really gross could be rotten and you don't want them to get rotten on you. But like I said, this one, when I put it away, this was not spalted. So when I unwrapped this and I grabbed another one before we get out of here. When I unwrapped this and then cut into it, cut it round on the band saw and saw this, that was cool. So those spores or whatever they are that caused that spalting must've been in there.

And then putting it into that hermetically sealed environment allowed them to blossom and bloom. I'll show you this other one. I only recently did. This one, I'm climbing to get it. Same thing.

This was not dark and cool looking like this when I put it away. But look at the amazing spalting and patterns it has now. And it's this one. Let's see, I think this one say two years before I turned it and this one was almost three years before I turned it. So it's cool.

It's a cool aspect of it. I mentioned Pentacryl for bowl blanks, is it food safe? I would double check with them, with Pentacryl. I don't wanna say, cause I don't remember. I don't use it that often.

I've actually got a huge log cookie soaking in it. And that's a more common application for me. I don't use it on bowls 'cause I just turn them green. And I don't worry about them not distorting. So if you go on Pentacryls' website, which isn't Pentacryl.com, it's like antique something.

There's a lot of information on there. Also information about how to use it and use it correctly. And I would just check with them. Titebond two on the left side of the laptop. Nope, that's Original.

The two is over there am my gluing and clamping table. Rick says what's an arrows blade you can use on a 14 inch band saw? Depends on the bandsaw. I've used eighth inch blades. I've got a three-sixteenths on my 14 inch Laguna right now.

Tightest radius you'd feel comfortable with that blade on two inch material. I don't know, I wouldn't try it. I think it could do radius. I think a three 16 splayed on two inch material could do a two inch radius, maybe less. Slow feed, you know, go slowly.

'Cause the blade is gonna be working hard. You could maybe go smaller. I mean you just have to experiment with it. I'm not 100% sure. Terence says, I'm in the process of buying a jointer for my workshop, would a six inch benchtop jointer be a good buy.

Sorry, I have to cough. I had a six inch Delta benchtop for a long time that I used in classes. It worked fine. It's a really short bed. So we talked earlier about short bed limits the length of material that you can have join.

But if you're primarily working with short stuff, that'd be fine. All right, folks, we have hit 8:05. I wanted to go a little past our normal closing time of eight, because we had some problems at the beginning and started a little bit late. Sorry about that. So let's do a little bit of where's Waldo.

What are we in? April, right? Yeah, April, May. So May weekend with wood for me. Weekend with wood in Des Moines.

If you're signed up, I'll see you there. If you're not registered, sorry but the whole event is sold out. And all my sessions are full there. And then in June, this just got added. So I'll be back in Chicago, June 15th and 16th.

It's a Saturday and Sunday. Maybe it's the 16th and 17th. I'm gonna look quick so I don't tell you wrong. Whatever the Saturday and Sunday are. So I'm gonna be at the Rockler store in Bolingbrook, Illinois.

I'm quickly getting to June here. Yeah, the 15th is a Saturday. So I'm gonna be in Chicago at one of the Rockler stores on the 15th of June. At the other Rockler store in Orland Park on the 16th of June, morning session at one, afternoon session at the other Logs to Lumber. One of my favorite topics.

So I'm gonna show up with a 12 inch diameter, 30 inch long log. And we're gonna push that through a bandsaw, cut it into planks. Talk about what it takes to cut the log, drying the material, all sorts of stuff. And then that's June, July, August. So yeah, I think that's it for my, current on the road teaching gigs.

So folks thanks very much for watching April, May. So we'll see you in May when we come back and do this again. Don't forget that we've got Facebook lives, that are every two weeks 11 o'clock in the morning. Today's was bandsaw dovetails. So those topics vary.

There's a set instruction. There's a set lesson I'm doing in each of those. So anyway, go ahead, Sam and punch us out and I will see you folks in a month or so. Thanks to Titebond.