The Big Green Egg Cart

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I occasionally like to take on unusual woodworking projects, so when my friend asked if I would help him build a rolling cart for his new “Big Green Egg” grill, I didn’t hesitate to dive in. My only concern was that putting wood so close to a source of fire gave me the “willies”, but he assured me that this particular grill contains heat so well that it would not be a risk.

We started by wrestling with some design ideas. He wanted a level of “fanciness” that was appropriate for this high-end grill/smoker, so he opted to go with quarter sawn white oak. We found a stash of wood that had brilliant ray fleck patterns throughout the boards, and we used this high-quality material for all of the external visible parts, while we opted for cheaper pressure treated materials for less visible interior components.


The Big Green Egg Cart Build Process:

legs-and-lower-frame_300 To form the legs we joined pieces of 6/4 oak at a 90 degree angle. This gave us a good ability to run screws into the upper and lower stretcher from behind the legs, leaving the screws unexposed.

frame-exposed_300-225x300We started from the bottom and “built up”, first adding the lower rail, then framing the drawer housing and cabinet section using pressure treated 2x4s. It was important to configure an adequate structure to support a 200 pound grill, patio stones to set the grill on, and a 100 pound slab of granite. We stress tested the carcase to our satisfaction before putting anything of value on top. This thing is built to last!

tongue-and-groove-sides_300-225x300 We wrapped the sides with tongue and groove oak boards that we milled using random width boards for a nice effect. Even though quarter sawn wood is relatively stable we left plenty of room for wood movement given that this project will live outside all year.

plunge-cut-repair_300 We did not have a formal plan or even precise dimensions in mind as we began the project, so as a result we had to make many “adjustments” along the way, including this oversight where we did not account for the hinge movement of the grill, and went we set the grill in place the lid was unable to open fully. So we used an oscillating multi-tool to perform a clean plunge cut and remove enough material to provide adequate clearance for the lid hinges.

A couple of construction tips if you want to take on a similar project:


Material choice:

Choose a material that is known to resist rot, such as cedar, teak, cyprus, or white oak. This is a big project, so you won’t want to build a new one every 5 years.

Adhesive:

You will want to use adhesive products that can withstand exposure to water. We used a combination of Tightbond 3 and construction adhesive, both of which are proven winners in this area.

Fasteners:

Get good quality corrosion resistant fasteners, as ordinary interior grade fasteners will stain your project over time and may eventually even fail.

Finish:

Use a good exterior grade finish to protect your project. We applied three coats of spar varnish which gave the white oak an amazing glow.

drawer-detail_300

Hardware:

Use high quality corrosion resistant hardware (stainless steel or brass are good options). These are not cheap, but they will look good for a long time.

Wheels:

This project weighs nearly 600 pounds when fully loaded with the granite slab and the grill itself, so it is great to have large wheels attached which make it easy to move the unit around.

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If you want to look like a world class BBQ chef, a cart like this might be in your future!

Photos By Matt Christianson and Paul Mayer

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33 Responses to “The Big Green Egg Cart”

    • Customer Service

      Hello Jerold,

      Thank you for contacting us. Unfortunately we do not have any additional resources available for this project.

      If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-253-0822, or chat with us on our site.

      We greatly appreciate your business!

      Sincerely,

      Lindsay
      Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Fred,

      Thank you for contacting us and letting us know. I have notified the proper department. Please check back on the article within the next 1-2 weeks.
      Thank you for your understanding!

      Sincerely,
      Codi

      Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
  1. Ron

    Hello, is the tree preserved from the heat of the grill? What separates them?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Ron. The green eggs stay pretty cool on the outside so a 1” gap is sufficient. A traditional charcoal grill would require more gap and/or insulation.
      Thanks
      Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  2. Mike

    Fasteners – corrosion resistant isn’t always enough with oak, the tonic acid in the oak can overcome plated type corrosion protection, best go stainless in every case in my opinion.

    Reply
  3. Karen

    Can I use a Weber kettle instead and is it safe using with a wood application as well?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Karen. It seems like it would be too hot on the outside of the grill to be positioned so close to wood. I would check with Weber on the clearance that they suggest around their unit.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA

      Reply
      • Walter Tomaszewski

        You can build a cement counter top, that would look great, withstand the heat, and is less expensive than granite.

        Reply
  4. Al

    What wood and hardware did you use for the drawers and the drawer slides. That would withstand the elements.

    Reply
  5. Rachel

    Where would you suggest I find quality, purchasable design plans with very specific supply lists, diagrams & directions for a large ceramic grill like this one?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Rachel. Unfortunately we do not have detailed plans for this beyond what is published on the site.

      Reply
  6. Gary

    I truly like your egg cart and I would like to build one for my son. Where can I get the plans and material list.

    Thank you for sharing your project.
    Gary

    Reply
    • WWGOA Team

      Thank you for your comments. Unfortunately we do not have these materials available for this project. But hopefully you can find enough tips in the article to construct one very similar.

      Reply
  7. Blair

    Thanks for all your help. Your photos helped me design and buil my cart. I finished the cart yesterday and installed the grill this morning. Very pleased with results. All redwood construction, with the exception of pressure treated support frame. The grill sits on four two inch square granite blocks, which in turn rest on a 19″ square piece of granite inset into the shelf. A matching granite surface is inset into the table top. Photo can be seen here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/pwfsqkaxwrbg6bt/BBQ%20Table.JPG?dl=0

    Reply
    • ANG

      Great looking in the redwood. Unfortunately, the east coast it is significantly more expensive than the oak. granite insert is a great touch. What height did you build your table?

      Reply
      • Blair Nelsen

        Sorry for taking so long to reply, just saw this. I built mine a little taller than most, as I don’t like bending over while cooking. The table height is 38″ versus the standard 36. Works great for me

        Reply
  8. Blair Nelsen

    What were the overall dimensions of this table. I am considering one 6″ in length.

    Reply
    • WWGOA Team

      Hi, Blair. 68″ wide x 34″ deep X 40″ high. But the table is unusually tall because the owner is 6’8″. FOr a more typical height, I’d suggest 32″-34″.

      Reply
      • Blair

        I am about halfway through my cart, using your photos as a guide (there have been a few hiccups, without plans, but all remedied). I have fastened all pieces from the inside with stainless steel screws, using kreg joints where necessary. How did you fasten the top? Unless I use only glue, it seems this area will have visible fasteners. I am thinking of using a combination of glue and stainless steel brad nailers from a nail gun, as these will be less visible.

        Reply
        • WWGOA Team

          Hi, Blair!

          I installed framing boards that support the top boards, and I ran screws through the framing boards into the boards that are installed on the top. I also put a bead of construction adhesive on top of the framing boards to help secure the top boards. The granite sits loose.

          Reply
        • Tom stephens

          You can use screws on top and then use wood plugs to hide the holes. I pre drill with a 1/2″ Forster bit then install the screw and plug the hole with a glued plug. Then sand smoth with surrounding surface.

          Reply