
TOOLS
You will need a 4-jaw chuck to complete this project. You’ll also need a half round scraper, 1/4” parting tool, 1/16” parting tool, and a detail/spindle gouge. A lidded box is best done as an end grain turning—in other words, with the grain running parallel to the bed of the lathe, just like turning a spindle. Unlike spindle turning, however, you will be working as much on the end of the stock, shaping and hollowing, as on the sides. For this box I used stock 2-3/4” x 2-3/4” x 4” long. Dimensions are approximate. Anywhere from 2-1/2” to 3” square will do. Mark the centers on either end of the blank by drawing two diagonal lines from corner to corner. Mount the blank between centers on the lathe. If you need a refresher on lathe techniques, check the links to other turning-related articles and videos at the end of this article.PREPARE THE BLANK
Turn the square block into a round cylinder with a roughing gouge. Cut a tenon on both ends of the cylinder with a 1/4” parting tool. Size the tenons to fit your 4-jaw chuck. One tenon will be used to hold the lid in the chuck; the other tenon will hold the base. TIP: I always taper these tenons just a hair, creating a dovetail shape. This provides a better gripping surface for the 4-jaw chuck. Remove the blank from the lathe and replace the drive center with a 4-jaw chuck. Mount the stock in the chuck. Even though the 4-jaw chuck can support the piece by itself, I always bring the tailstock up for extra support whenever possible. Separate the top (lid) from the bottom (base) with a narrow, 1/16” parting tool. The narrow kerf helps maintain grain continuity on the piece. As you get close to the end, slow the lathe down and lightly hold the base in place as it separates from the top. You don’t want it to spin off the lathe and get damaged. Turn the lathe off, keeping the base in place with your hand until it stops. Remove the base.TURN THE INSIDE OF THE LID
Cut the tenon on the underside of the lid with a detail/spindle gouge. Start about 1/8” inside the outer edge to form the lip that overhangs the base. End the cut where you want the tenon to start. The tenon defines the opening size in the base. Use a round nose scraper to cut a dome shape in the center of the lid. Start your cuts at the center and sweep outward towards the tenon. Sand the inside of the lid to 320-grit or higher.FIT THE LID TO THE BASE
Measure the tenon diameter on the lid with a divider. Remove the lid and mount the base in your chuck. Narrow the divider by 1/8”. This will give you some wiggle room when you cut the opening in the base. With the lathe on its slowest speed, center the calipers on the base without touching it. Use the caliper leg closest to you to very lightly score the base. The opposite leg should line up with the score if you have it centered. Deepen the score when you get the mark centered. It doesn’t need to be perfect. That’s one reason why I built in the 1/8” wiggle room.
FIT THE LID
Widen the mortise with a narrow parting tool. Make light cuts that taper in toward the center. Fitting the lid to the base will require a healthy dose of patience. You must stop the lathe repeatedly to see how the fit is going. Take very light cuts to start and whisper-thin cuts when the fit gets close. Once you get the mortise sized to where the tenon just starts to fit the mortise, straighten out the taper. You will have to adjust the profile on the top of the base to fit the underside of the lid as well. Take your time!
SHAPE THE WHOLE BOX
With the lid fit snug, shape the entire box with a spindle gouge. Having the box together makes it easier to create a pleasing, unified shape. I like to undercut the lid a bit as this helps hide the joint where the top and base meet. As always, I bring the tailstock up to help hold the lid in place as long as I can.

CREATE A JAM CHUCK TO FINISH THE BOTTOM
Make a jam chuck out of what’s left of the base block. Turn a tenon on with a 1/4” parting tool to fit the base opening. Use a pair of calipers to measure the opening in the base, then add about 1/16”. I hold the calipers in the cut being made by the parting tool. Be sure the caliper ends are well rounded so they can’t catch on the spinning stock. When you cut to the right diameter, the calipers will slip over the tenon. Stop cutting. Test fit the base on the tenon (jam chuck). Continue to take light cuts until you get that tight fit you originally had on the lid. Finish the bottom with a detail gouge. Go for a slight hollowing so the base will sit on its rim. Notice the tissue shim on the jam chuck. Often, the base opening will deform a bit after it gets hollowed out. The tissue shim is the perfect solution. Finish the base bottom on the lathe and your box is ready for gifting. Lidded boxes can be used for all sorts of small storage needs. They’re as fun to make as they are to give away. Related Links: Spindle Turning Basics How to Face Off and Turn End Grain Using Calipers on the Lathe Source: Crown 1/16” Micro Thin Parting Tool, Part # 110-414 Woodworker’s Supply www.woodworker.com 1-800-645-9292
I need some help. When using the forstner bit to do these I get a lot of smoke. Am I going to fast, not fast enough, need to sharpen the bit? Any advice would be helpful.
Hi Levi. You might need to sharpen the bit, and you are probably going too fast. Here’s a helpful chart to indicate the appropriate speed for a bit, depending on it’s diameter: https://images.meredith.com/wood/images/pdf/speedchart.pdf
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Good instructions as I am second year turner. Thank you…l
na
A very nice overall shape. I really like the radius on the bottom’s tenon. Thanks for the great tutorial
Very nice.
Hello. Thanks for your work in putting out these informative pieces. I have a question about jam chucks. Do the outside walls of the jam chuck and the inside walls of the work piece need to be as parallel as possible in order to have more contact surface for maximum friction? Or is it okay for the inside walls that contact the jam chuck to be curved or tapered so the work piece will “wedge” onto the jam chuck. Which is the most secure? I am asking because sometimes the work piece base may be hollowed out such that there or no parallel sides. Can it still be jam chucked?
Thanks
James
Hi, James. In general, more contact = more stabilty = better, but you can still use a jamb chuck without the additional contact on the sidewalls. For smaller pieces this is generally not a problem at all, while larger pieces might require a lighter touch with your chisels.
What is the recommended lathe speed? Is this important?
It is definitely important to operate your lathe within a safe speed range which is dependent on the size of your project. Here is a article that includes a chart on this: http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/lathespeed.html
Like the turned wood liddwd box
The process was interesting to watch. I ever new it took so many steps. Ralph
looks like the perfect thing for my grandson and I to make for his Teacher.
Great article
very informative I, have made one or two myself and now see where I can improve but ,I find the gouge, a bit savage at times. I use Sapelie timber and find it smooth in places and rough in others so I reverse spin the item when finishing .
Thanks Phil
i need help thank you
Hi, Kenny! How can we help you?