11 Popular Woodworking Joints

In this detailed post, we discuss some of today’s most popular woodworking joints.

1. Butt Joint

butt joint

The Butt Joint is an easy woodworking joint. It joins two pieces of wood by merely butting them together. The butt joint is the simplest joint to make. It is also the weakest wood joint if you use some reinforcement. It depends upon glue alone to hold it together. Because of the orientations of the pieces, you have an end-grain to long-grain gluing surface. The resulting wood joint is inherently weak. Glue provides little lateral strength. You can break this woodworking joint with your bare hands.

Related Video: Butt Joint Table-Top Frame

2. Biscuit Joint

A biscuit joint is nothing more than a reinforced Butt joint. The biscuit is an oval-shaped piece. Typically, a biscuit is made of dried and compressed wood, such as beech. You install it in matching mortises in both pieces of the wood joint. Most people use a biscuit joiner to make the mortises. Accuracy is less crucial for mortises. You design the biscuit joint to allow flexibility in glue-up.

biscuit joint

However, you must locate the mortise at the correct distance from the face of the woodworking joint in both pieces. The width of the mortise is not critical. Since the biscuit is thin, you can move the alignment around.

I’m not too fond of this joint. It needs to be in perfect alignment. In addition, you spend your money on the Biscuit Joiner and a lot of time cutting the mortises in each piece of stock.

3. Bridle Joint

bridle joint long piece

A bridle joint is a woodworking joint similar to a mortise and tenon. You cut a tenon on the end of one piece and a mortise into the other to accept it. You cut the tenon and the mortise to the full width of the tenon piece. This is the distinguishing feature of this joint. Therefore, there are only three gluing surfaces.

bridle joint short piece

The corner bridle joint joins two pieces at their ends, forming a corner. You use this joint to house a rail in uprights, such as legs. It provides good strength in compression and is moderately resistant to racking. A mechanical fastener or pin is required. You use corner bridles to join frame pieces when the frame is shaped. After assembly, you can remove material from the joined pieces without sacrificing joint integrity. A variation of the bridle joint is the T-bridle, which joins the end of one piece to the middle of another.

Related video: Finishing a Bridle Joint on a Bandsaw

4. Dado (joinery)

dado inserted

A dado is a slot cut into the surface of a piece of wood. When viewed in cross-section, a dado has three sides. You cut a dado perpendicular to the grain. It differs from a groove, which you cut parallel to the grain.

dado slats

A through dado passes through the surface, and its ends are open. A stopped dado has one or both ends stop before the dado meets the edge of the surface. You use dadoes to attach shelves to a bookcase carcass. You rabbet the shelves to fit the dado, which makes the rabbet and dado joint. It is good to use for woodworking joints.

Related videos: Making Dadoes on a Miter Saw and Table Saw Dado Cuts Create Lock Joints

5. Dovetail Wood Joint

dovetail joint

The dovetail joint, or simply dovetail, is a strong woodworking joint. It is great for tensile strength (resistance from pulling apart). You use the dovetail joint to connect the sides of a drawer to the front. A series of pins cut to extend from the end of one board interlock with a series of tails cut into the end of another. The pins and tails have a trapezoidal shape. Once glued, the joint is permanent and requires no mechanical fasteners. Some people use a dovetailed dado because of its tensile strength.

Related videos: Dovetail Joinery: The Parts of a Dovetail, How to Make Dovetail Joints and Fit Them Accurately, Cutting Dovetails on a Bandsaw

6. Finger Joint

sawing a finger joint

A finger joint or box joint is one of the popular woodworking joints. You use it to join two pieces of wood at right angles. It is much like a dovetail joint except that the pins are square and not angled.

The joint relies on glue to hold it together. It does not have the mechanical strength of a dovetail. The woodworking joint is relatively easy to make if you know how to use a table saw or a wood router with a simple jig.

7. Lap Wood Joint

lap joint

A half-lap joint is a frequently used woodworking joint. In a half-lap joint, you remove material from each piece so that the resulting joint is the thickness of the thickest piece. Most frequently, the pieces are of the same thickness in half-lap joints. You remove half the thickness of each. This joint is good for making workshop storage items.

8. Mortise and Tenon Woodworking Joints

Mortise and Tenon Woodworking Joints

One of the strongest woodworking joints is the mortise and tenon joint. This joint is simple and strong. Woodworkers have used it for many years. Normally you use it to join two pieces of wood at 90 degrees. You insert one end of a piece into a hole in the other piece. You call the end of the first piece a tenon. You call the hole in the second piece a mortise.

Mortise and Tenon joined

Normally, you use glue to make this joint. You may pin or wedge it to lock it in place. A quality mortise and tenon joint gives perfect registration of the two pieces. This is important when building heirloom pieces. A mortise is a cavity cut into a piece of wood to receive a tenon. A tenon is a projection on the end of a piece of wood to insert into a mortise.

Usually, the tenon is taller than it is wide. Generally, the size of the mortise and tenon relates to the thickness of the pieces. It is good practice to make the tenon about 1/3 the thickness of the piece.

Related videos: Rules for Mortise and Tenon Joinery, Making Mortises on the Drill Press, Cutting Mortises on a Router Table, Fitting Mortise and Tenon Joints

9. Pocket-Hole Joinery

pocket hole joinery

One of the more popular woodworking joints is the Pocket-Hole Joint. It is nothing more than a Butt joint with Pocket Hole Screws. The pocket holes require two drilling operations. The first is to counterbore the pocket hole, which takes the screw head contained by the piece. The second step is to drill a pilot hole whose centerline is the same as the pocket hole. The pilot hole allows the screw to pass through one piece and into the adjoining piece. You use two different-sized drill bits for this operation. Alternatively, you may find special stepped bits to perform this operation in a single pass.

Most people use a pocket-hole jig, such as the Kreg Jig. This jig allows you to drill pocket holes at the correct angle and depth. It would be best if you used glue to strengthen the joint. Of course, the Kreg Jig costs from $40 to $140. That is a lot of money when you can make the mortise & tenon jigs for a fraction of that price. Moreover, the mortise and tenon joint is much stronger.

Related video: Pocket Hole Joinery: Beyond Face Frames

10. Rabbet Woodworking Joints

rabbet joint

A rabbet is a recess cut into the edge of a piece of wood. When viewed in cross-section, a rabbet is two-sided and open to the end of the surface. An example of a rabbet is in the back edge of a cabinet. The rabbet allows the back to fit flush with the sides. Another example is inserting a glass pane using a rabbet around the edge of the frame.

Related videos: Cutting Rabbets on a Table Saw and Created Rabbets on a Jointer

11. Tongue and Groove Woodworking Joints

tongue and groove

One of the more popular woodworking joints is the edge-to-edge joint, called tongue and groove. One piece has a slot (groove) cut all along one edge. The other piece has a tongue cut on the mating edge.

tongue and groove inward

As a result, two or more pieces fit together closely. You can use it to make wide tabletops out of solid wood. Some other uses are wood flooring, parquetry, paneling, etc. You can cut the tongue and groove in several ways using a router table.

Expanisve tests done over the years show that that the Mortise and Tenon joint is superior to other joints.

This article was contributed by Jim McCleary.

Comments
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46 Responses to “11 Popular Woodworking Joints”

  1. Chris Vanderwielen

    This guy: ” Of course, the Kreg Jig costs from $40 up to $140. To me, that is a lot of money”
    Also, this guy: “here’s how to make a joint on a table saw or a router table”

    A Kreg jig cost is a toss in the bucket compared to the majority of tools in any workshop. Woodpeckers rulers are almost 2x that amount.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Veronica. You can cut those on a scroll saw based on the pattern that you use. There are many different ones available on the internet.
      Paul
      Woodworkers Guild of America

      Reply
  2. GUY PANGGAU

    I am a beginner and I would like see articles on house furniture makings or timber house structural framing details.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Guy!

      Thank you for your feedback. I have forwarded your comment to the proper department. We value your opinion and it will help with the development of our online streaming community. We will continue to listen and work hard for your complete satisfaction.

      Have a great day!

      Terri
      Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
  3. Chris Westbrook

    I have to say I am really disappointed in this review. Tt is not a review of the pros and cons of various joints and when to use them. Instead it is a opinion paper by one wood worker. When the comment “Why bother” is included – well… that kind of says it all. Why bother (for biscuit joints)? – Even though I am a newbie and really don’t know much about which joint to choose, biscuit joints are faster, they are more forgiving with positioning and they work well to joint to pieces of wood edge to edge. It would be really nice to have an actual review of the different joints, when to use which ones, and tricks for getting them correct.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Chris,

      Thank you for your feedback. I have forwarded your comment to the proper department. We value your opinion, and it will help with the development of our online streaming community. We will continue to listen and work hard for your complete satisfaction.

      Please let us know if you have any further questions.
      Sincerely,
      Danesha
      Wood Workers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
  4. Jeffery Hill

    I’m new to woodworking and I need something to show me the different kinds of joints, and other kinds of Routing bits, and what they are used for. Anything you could reccomend would be great.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Jeffery,

      Thanks for your question. Regarding joinery, here’s a great place to start:
      https://www.wwgoa.com/article/woodworking-joints-which-ones-should-you-use/

      If you search for ‘router bits’ using the search box on WWGOA.com, you’ll find a lot of content that you can peruse on those. Another good place to do some research is on this router bit site: https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/. They provide a long list of router applications that you can click on and see the bits that are associated with each one.
      Hope this helps.

      If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-253-0822, or chat with us on our site.

      We greatly appreciate your business!

      Sincerely,

      Lindsay
      Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
  5. Erwin

    Are you missing dowel joinery in this article? I would like to see some editorial on this type as well.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Erwin,

      Than you for contacting us. Here is what I heard back:

      Thanks for your feedback. We’ll keep dowel joinery in mind for some future coverage with our content.

      Cheers,

      Paul

      I see you are currently not a member. If you are interested in becoming a member to Woodworkers Guild of America, please click on the special offer below:

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      If you have any further questions, please chat, email, or contact Customer Service at 1-855-253-0822.

      Sincerely,

      Joan
      Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

      Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Paul!

      That’s a great question and we’d love to help!

      The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!

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      Jessica
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      Reply
  6. Luca Santilli

    I’m about to conduct my research form my timber HSC and this article was very helpful, though I am sure there are lots of other joins that could be listed. Good Job!

    Reply
  7. Robinette Frances Bluhme

    I am building a desk (hopefully heirloom) for my son using solid acacia butcher block. I am making it L-shape and was initially going to do a reinforced butt joint as I am a novice. I don’t have the tools or know how to do the more intricate joints. Is there anything I can do to make sure this joint will be strong enough to last for generations?

    Reply
  8. Jana

    hi I need help with my homework please help me what joints do I use for a bathroom cabinet xx

    Reply
  9. Customer Service

    Hi Hayley. Did you have a specific question you needed help with?

    Thanks
    Jean-Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership

    Reply
  10. Logan

    this is cool my only issue is I wanted pros and cons for each of the joints, was kind of helpful (might be a little outdated). thank you for your help.

    Reply
  11. Taylor Bishop

    Thanks for helping me learn more about different woodworking joints. I didn’t know that a bridle joint gives good strength in compression and is resistant to racking. I’m kind of interested to learn of situations where this joint should be ideally used, like for smaller wood pieces.

    Reply
  12. Jack

    I am building a planter box that will need to hold 8 cubic feet of soil. Will the Mortise and Tenon joint hold up to that (the soil would weigh about 850 pounds)?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Jack. There are lots of variable here, but if you mill everything properly and get a good glue bond, I would think that it would hold.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA

      Reply
  13. Alan Cooper

    Joints are joints and each generally speaking has an appropriate place in the woodworking industry and craft, with respect to time and budget available for the task. I therefore think some of the descriptions ought to be rewritten without the editor’s bias. Especially with regard to the extensively used biscuit joint. The editor would be well minded to appreciate the strength a biscuit joint leaves in the material around it through, depending on material thickness, not cutting out too much material in the weaker outer edges. There is a valid place in the industry and craft for the biscuit joint and we should bother.

    Reply
  14. Gregory Lesniewski

    Have watched a woodworking channel on TV here inn PHP, and they show a man standing on a pocket-hole joint made with the KREG jig. The joint did not break, crack or fail. I will pay for and take the KREG any time over ‘home-made’ jigs of this type,.

    Reply
  15. ArtvSuchland

    I am putting an gold cedar chest back together. At each corner then pieces join with a self locking routed joint. Now nails or glue was used when the chest was built. I have never seen this joint before. Any idea when and where such a joint was used?

    Reply
  16. Ron Paque

    I made a chair utilizing a half lap joint on the chair rails and front legs and used 3/8 doweling through the half lap joint to join the front seat support. Since the stock was 3/4 there was very few options. I used through mortise and tenon on the back seat support where there was more surface area for 3/4 thick tenons. Using 3/4 stock to construct dining chairs forces you to use multiple joinery methods for strength.

    Reply
  17. Anne White

    I bought a wardrobe that is too big to get up the stairs, i have tried everything door off etc. The only thing I can think of is to release the frame from the doors. The frame has dovetail joints can they be released in any way. I will be supremely grateful for any advice kindest regards, Anne

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Anne,

      You can try applying some steam to the dovetails. If the piece is old enough and uses hide glue rather than modern woodworking glues it might come apart with steam. If it is a modern piece that does not use hide glue you will have a hard time getting those dovetails apart.

      Thanks,
      Paul WWGOA Video Membership

      We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first year membership.

      https://go.wwgoa.com/C8450

      Reply
  18. Anthony

    I would like to join a 3/4″ Bamboo Plywood to legs I made using Poplar. I glued two 3/4″ 1×3 together to give me 1 1/2″ x 3 and added two more short pieces at the bottom to create a foot. Actual Measurements are 3 1/2″ wide x 1 1/2″, Base is 3 1/8″ x 3 1/2″, 4 legs 35″ high to match the cross cut sled of my contractor table saw. add the 3/4 bamboo plywood top and I can use this work table/router table, as an Out feed table. I was considering using Dovetails Two Large pins in the legs and the top will be my tail board ? Any Help would be appreciated.

    Reply
    • Anthony

      I forgot to mention I have two 3/4″ x 6′ x 6″ boards for side rails for added support, and two sets of blocks, ( scrap ) to use for adding shelves, I had these from cutting the legs to length. 4 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 4″ and 4 – 1 1/2″ x 3″ x 8″

      Reply
      • Customer Service

        This approach (joining a plywood top to table legs using dovetail joinery should be ok, although I’ve never seen it done before. You will need to lower your side rails by at least 3/4″ to provide room for the top to slide into the pins.
        We’d like to see a picture of this when you’re done!

        Reply
  19. aawattsjr

    Check this link. It suggests that your conclusions may not be correct. http://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/02/25/joint-strength-test – While mortise and tenon joints have an almost religious following among woodworkers they are not as strong and lap or bridle joints. Mortise and tenons joints fail when the cross-grain side of the joint splits at the depth of the tenon. Lap joints are stronger since they are held by the full width of both pieces.

    Reply
    • Dave

      The FWW analysis makes sense. However, for me, there’s just something very special about a mortise and tenon.

      Reply
  20. Erik S. Lacy

    This guide on wood joinery is very helpful and I was glad to see it. Thanx for your publications.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Dave. Yes, there are many applications for dovetail joints. They can be used any time that end grain is joined to end grain. I use commonly dovetails for blanket chests, magazine racks, boxes, etc.

      Reply
    • Mike Kirwan

      Dovetail joints used strategically Ina timber frame helps lock the frame together

      Reply
  21. Paul

    I read that article and if I remember correctly the box joint (not finger joint) exceeded them all in strength.

    regards Paul

    Reply
  22. CaptDaveEng21

    With all the new style joinery bits now coming out on the market, I would like to see an article involving their use and or practicality.
    Otherwise, very good article. Thanks.

    Reply
  23. CaptDaveEng21

    With all the new style joinery bits now coming out on the market, I would like to see an article involving their use and or practicality.
    Otherwise, very good article. Thanks.

    Reply