A Super Simple Table

arts-and-crafts-table

Joints on the corners make this table surprisingly strong.

This table is a marvel of engineering and efficiency. The legs are placed on the corners, providing remarkable lateral and torsional strength, and the two horizontal planes serve as both shelf and stretchers. I have given this particular version an Arts & Crafts flair, employing quarter-sawn white oak and a geometric ‘dog ear’ on the legs. Legs are attached to the shelf and top with screws and plugged, however, dowel or pocket screw joinery would work too.

white-oak-blank

Less than four board feet make the table!

I had a spare piece of quartersawn white oak, only 10” x 48” gathering dust in my shop, and turned it into a gift. I reserved approximately two inches of width for each leg to create a leg blank, then trimmed off the excess and glued it to the top section to attain a wider plank for the top and shelf. Any lumber will work for this design, and I can imagine a contemporary version in walnut, or a Shaker version in maple. Final dimensions for the piece are 24” tall x 12” square.

dado-the-leg-blank

Cut all the joints at once

Install a 3/8” wide dado blade in the table saw to crosscut dadoes in the 9” x 24” leg blank. This process requires multiple passes over the blade, but by taking thin passes after the initial cut, I can size the dado perfectly to match the thickness of the horizontal pieces. Clamp a stop block to the fence, and use it to cut a dado 2” from each end of the leg blank. Then move the rip fence to the right in small increments to sneak up on the final size of the dado.

It would be simple to add another shelf to the table, or to change the locations of the top and bottom, if you wanted to modify the design.

rip-the-legs-from-the-blank

Rip the legs from the leg blank

Rip the 2” wide legs from the leg blank after the dadoes have been cut. I love projects that look complicated but are as simple and straightforward as this one. Each leg will be exactly the same, interchangeable with the other legs.

miter-the-corners

Trim the corners from the top and shelf

Cut a 45-degree miter on each corner of the shelves to receive the legs. The length of the diagonal is 2”, matching the width of the leg. I set a wide stop block and clamped it to the bed of the miter-saw. The top and shelf will be exactly the same size, and have identical miters. Select the best piece for the top, and use the other for the shelf.

plug-the-holes

Peg the screw holes

On a last minute gift like this time is of the essence, so I use screws to hold the table together instead of fancy joinery. To fasten the legs to the top and shelf, I bored 1/2” countersink holes, and then pre-drilled into the top and shelf. After driving the screw, I filled the holes with plugs I cut from excess white oak stock. When the glue dries, trim the plugs with a Japanese saw and sand them flush.

Final finishing steps

Sand the table with a random orbital sander, using 120-grit sandpaper. to clean up the plugs. I skip up to 220 grit sandpaper and sand the rest of the table, and soften all of the edges with hand sanding. For a beautiful and protective finish, I start with Dark Walnut stain from Minwax, which is the perfect balance of dark brown and red tones characteristic of antique Arts and Crafts furniture. After the stain dries overnight, I spray three thin coats of Satin Minwax Polyurethane as a protective, waterproof layer. The polyurethane has a hint of yellow, which adds to the character of the table, and is remarkably easy to apply. While waterborne finishes cure somewhat faster than oil based finishes, they don’t have that ‘yellow’ which is so perfect for this table. Now get out to the shop and start cutting! There’s no time to waste.

Photos and Byline by: Seth Keller

Discussion
  • (will not be published)

13 Responses to “A Super Simple Table”
  1. Elmer L Fairbank

    Here is picture of a stand (if I can figure out how to attach it). That my dad made a good 70 or more years ago. Imagine my surprise. He was not a woodworker, but it’s still in use. Pine, no dadoes, exposed screws. Dear to me nevertheless. ELF

    Reply
    • George Vondriska

      Thanks for posting this picture. It’s very interesting to see your table and Seth’s table.

      Reply
  2. georgeinsc

    I’ve completed one of the tables but with 24″ x 10-1/2″ shelves, stained Golden Oak and topped with three coats of Armor-Seal. My wife said “that’s very nice but can you make one with a drawer”… So that one is now under way and is proving to be more of a challenge. I think it will be very nice piece of accent furniture once complete. Thanks for the base idea.

    Reply
  3. rjconti

    Thickness of wood not given? I presume 3/4″. Also, not sure how extra top pieces (2) make it “square”. Sorry to be pickey…., but I am stumped relating to the extra “top” pieces??? Am I missing something….?? Thanks for the design.

    Reply
    • WWGOA Team

      Thank you for your comment. Yes, ¾” material. The board the parts were cut from was 10” wide. The top and shelf are 12” x 12”. In order to get 12” wide pieces the extra parts get edge glued to the 10” top and shelf pieces.

      Reply
    • WWGOA Team

      We suggest using a dado depth of 3/8″, which is half the thickness of the leg material. Paul

      Reply
  4. MICHAEL

    Is there a cut list that shows some dimensions of the pieces for this table?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Michael. Unfortunately we do not have any resources for this project other than the information that is provided directly in the article itself.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA

      Reply
  5. elizalolla22

    if you want to know how to make it yourself , just go to WoodPrix website. There you’ll find your answers 🙂

    Reply