On SawStop’s website, they say that the SawStop cabinet saw must be wired directly into the shop power, according to NEC. As I: 1) like to (must) move my saw and 2) always unplug it when I’m working on it, that seems odd to me. In your video, “Essential Woodworking Techniques,” you unplug the SawStop to work on it, just as I would expect. Have you experienced any untoward effects from using a plug? Does it affect the standing of your warranty? Also, does the SawStop cabinet saw include a power cord?
Submitted by chemdad
I unplug my saw for set up and blade changes because the plug is a little more convenient to reach than the power disconnect on the saw. A friend who owns a cabinet shop has his SawStop hard-wired (no plug), and they use the disconnect.
I forwarded your question to the folks at SawStop, and here’s what they said:
“The answer is that while our manual says hook directly, it’s quite fine to use a plug and receptacle arrangement. Which plug and receptacle depends on local electrical code requirements and your saw’s voltage and current requirements. Installing via this method does not impact the warranty if done correctly. Consult a qualified electrician if you are not familiar with proper methods.”
Regarding your question about whether the SawStop cabinet saw includes a power cord, the answer is no. It must be permanently connected to the building’s electrical system under National Electric Code. Consult a licensed electrician if you need help connecting the saw to your building’s electrical system. Your SawStop dealer may provide electrical hookup service.
I hope this helps.
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Ticket 21886 This says it’s “quite fine” to to use a plug and receptacle arrangement. Then it says, regarding the cabinet saw, must be permanently connected to the electrical system. Which is it, and is the cabinet saw different from the saw they’re thinking about? I’m planning to plug in my new 220v 3hp saw. In fact, my saw comes with a 9′ power cord.
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
Some SawStop saws come with a power switch/lock out, completely separate from the saw’s on/off switch. This is the configuration on George’s saw. This lends itself to applications where code, OSHA or other rules require that the saw is hardwired, while still providing a way to disable the power when making set up changes. If you simply want to put a plug on the end of your power cord and use that, you should be fine, as long as that arrangement complies with any local requirements for your shop.
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My sawstop runs on 220. Does the plug style matter. I am moving into a new shop and the outlets look more like something a laundry drier might use.
Hi Bill. The outlets that you are describing are likely higher amperage, and you would not want to run a SawStop on that. You should seek advice from an electrician on this question.