“I am looking at a used 10″ table saw to replace my very old one. The top has a light coating of rust from just sitting in the garage. How is the best way to remove it, if possible?”
Submitted by: brandenbergs
WWGOA Editor Response:
I’ve had great luck getting surface rust off tools using a product from Empire Manufacturing called TopSaver. Spritz it on, let it sit a minute or two, then scrub with a Scotch Brite pad. If surface rust is all you’re up against, Top Saver and a little elbow grease, will fix the problem. Seal the top with Empire’s Table Top Lubricant so the saw doesn’t rust again in your shop. This is a great technique on how to remove rust from table saws.
Thank you for your question.
George Vondriska
Managing Editor
Got a woodworking question you need answered? Comment or Email us at editor@wwgoa.com
You might also be interested in:
How to Clean Rust off a Table Saw
Ideas for Removing a Rusty Table Saw Arbor Nut
Cleaning a Rusty Table
Lubricating Table Saw Top
Is there any reason this technique would not work well on my wood lathe bed? Might it leave a coating that would reduce the slickness needed to maneuver the tool rest?
Hello Jim,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
This approach should work well on a lathe. Be sure to lubricate after removing the rust. Here’s the product that George referenced: https://www.wwgoa.com/product/table-top-lubricant/
Paul
Wood Workers Guild of America Expert
Well don’t know if I’m right or wrong but 50 years ago bought a used table saw and it had a rusty top. How it was removed was elbow grease and a small piece of Emory cloth, well lots of Emory cloth and then it was waxed. And it gets waxed e every 6 months or so to keep the rust away. If I’ve not paid attention and waxed soon enough where looks like a spot of rust is trying to come back I just take a putty knife and run across the offending area and wax again. You can never wax enough! Especially if living in a hot humid area like Mississippi. Not hard just elbow grease and wax to keep rust at bay.
Unfortunately my shop is not sealed like some are that have central heat and air. So, rust is a very big problem for me. It is on my older saw blades, a set of spade bits, and on my various screw bits-flat head, philips, star drives, hex wrench bits. What is the best way to remove it? I have a can of silicone spray sealant put out by WD-40 that does a great job sealing my newer tools. You just spray this on let dry and its sealed. Is a fine wire wheel okay to use? Just for the record, I love the way George explains things. He doesn’t talk down to you like some on You Tube do.
Hi Daniel. The best way that I’ve found to remove rust is to spray it with WD-40, let it sit for an hour or so, and then scrub with steel wool. You can try a fine wire wheel if you want, although you might find this to be too aggressive.
Thanks
Paul- Woodworkers Guild of America
No cammant
Hi, I have your video on the rust removal system using battery charger. The problem I have is my charger is a smart charger. After a over night run I had very litter rust removed. I would like to know if the charger you used is one of the newer ones or is it an older one.
I have used an old dead battery in between. The HiGH TCHC CHARGER doesn’t know ihe difference.
fh tsck chRGER
I want to build a planting station for my wife. I wanted to build it out of cedar but can’t find 11/2′ X 3 1/2″ material. What other type of material do you recommend?
Hi Duane. Cedar is probably your best choice. I would continue to look, perhaps go to a lumber yard (rather than home center) and see if they can cut some to your specifications. Also, check on Craiglist as you might find a local private sawyer who sells cedar.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Two thoughts. One, look on Facebook marketplace for a source of the cedar. Two, use Cyprus if available in his area.
look for a cedar 2″ X 4″. This is the nominal (rough dimensions before finishing) size, Actual dimensions in the store are approximately 1 1/2″ X 3 1/2″.
How can I finish two bowling alley work benches. One is in the basement, and the other is in my garage. The finish on them know is getting bad. Thank you John Meyer
Hi John. I would suggest lightly sanding and applying boiled linseed oil. I use BLO because it is simple and cheap, and does a good enough job on a workbench.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
I am starting to cut a lot of circles out of plywood. What is the best way to do this? Table saw or router?
Thanks for all the help
Ticket 21896 Your website is hard to negotiate IMHO. Where do I purchase the Bostick Tool Glide you often advertise in the videos I have purchased? Please send me a link
Dear Colin,
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
here you go: http://amzn.to/2ilPB0O
Sincerely,
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
I m back to woodworking again and I have read about different projects being cover with a oil. Please tell me what oils are being used and available. Also, please explain how I would achieve a high gloss finish on a project that is being clear coated.
Hello. There are a few different oils that are commonly used to finish woodworking projects:
– Tung oil – Danish oil- Walnut oil- Mineral oil (does not cure. often used to treat cutting boards)
A high gloss finish can be achieved with a few different products. A couple of the more popular options include gloss polyurethane and lacquer.
Thanks
Paul-WWGOA
I’ve used Birchwood Casey True Oil on wood for years. Gun stocks. Oak furniture etc. Takes some effort but glossy finish.
I spray the rusted area with WD40 then sand it with W&D 320 grit paper with my 1/4 sheet palm sander. Spray/sand again if needed. Then wipe down thoroughly, let dry for 30 minutes. I then apply Johnson floor paste was, let dry and rub smooth with cotton cloth. Wood slides over it like on ball bearings.
I saw a short video of you spraying something on the top of your table saw, and you said that it was not aerosol.
What is the best way to sand blocks of wood that have been cut horizontally? The grain is circular.
It depends what tools you have. A drum sander could be effective on this. A random orbital sander or hand held belt sander might work well too.
-Paul WWGOA
I use 220-400 grit sandpaper followed by a scotch-brite pad. When the top is clean and shiny with not rust
I wipe it with alcohol several times and apply two coats of cold gun-blue, until the top is an even black color. Then if it will sit for a while before use, I apply a light mineral oil and wipe it off before use. I have an old Craftsman planer that this has worked well with for years now. Same for my scroll saw with cast iron top.
I am considering a 10″ drum sanders by Jet for my scroll saw hobby. Is it reliable? There’s some negative comments about the plastic drive system.
TopSaver is no longer available. An Alternative?
You can use WD40 or Liquid Wrench as well, as long as you are careful to clean it thoroughly when you are done. If you leave any of this oil on the saw it can wreak havoc on your finish, so really take your time and get this stuff off of the saw.
Here is an alternative approach if you are just dealing with surface rust (not pitted). Take a green Scotchbrite pad, set it on the effected area, and set a palm sander on top of the Scotchbrite pad. Then just run the sander, working the scotchbrite pad slowly across the surface. I have found this approach to be quicker and less messy than using a chemical approach. When its done, apply a coat of silicon free paste wax or a specialized tool sealant such as Bostik GlideCote.