WWGOA LIVE! August 2017

A beautiful night outside, and a great night to be in the shop answering your questions. Thanks to everyone who participated. You had lots of great questions.

0:25 Buying advice on a drill press
2:14 Rustic lumber; is it any good?
3:00 Ceiling height of a workshop
6:45 Dimensions for a picture frame
8:30 Four jaw chucks for a lathe
10:32 Jointing on the router table. How long a bit?
12:30 Getting a bow out of a board
13:37 Dovetail spline jig
16:18 Thickness of bottom for pull out trays
18:56 Scroll saw in George’s shop
19:52 Gluing glass to wood
21:15 Table saw recommendation
22:12 Recommended humidity level for a shop
23:00 Top coat for hickory
25:44 Tablesaw lock mechanism doesn’t hold
26:52 Brushing on polyurethane
29:30 Leveling end grain cutting boards
31:40 Dovetails in thin stock
33:00 Extended time glue
34:30 Knife kits
37:00 Creating a weather wood look
37:44 Tuning a hand plane
38:15 Two hand planes for George
40:15 Sanding a cylinder
42:17 Become a better finisher
43:45 Table saw recommendation
44:33 George’s mustache
45:29 All about threaded inserts
47:22 Polyurethane over oil?
49:17 Resawing on the table saw
55:44 Material reacts as it’s being ripped
56:34 6” or 8” dado head?
1:01:08 George’s teaching schedule

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Discussion
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129 Responses to “WWGOA LIVE! August 2017”
  1. jon

    I am a gold member looking for a good woodworking drill press. so many choices and I want to do this right one time.Please give me your recommendation on the floor model you choose.Thank you so much

    Reply
  2. jon

    i recently got some rustic lumber from my grandfather house, they where in a shed so no water got onto them. how can you tell if good enough for a project?

    Reply
  3. PAUL

    I want to build a storage / workshop and I have approximately a space that is 8’w x 4’d and I am 6′ tall. what do you suggest the height should be with such a small area to build and what kind of wood is good for this?

    Reply
  4. Dennis

    Best 10″ compound sliding duel bevel miter saw for wood shop. Replacing Protech 10″ single bevel miter saw about 15 years old. Getting ready for retirement which will allow me daily shop time. Thx love the show and I watch every one of them.

    Reply
  5. Fred/Dot

    I am new at all of this. Trying to take in as much information I can. I am into the crafty part and shelve building for small craft room.

    Reply
  6. Steve Bales

    Love making wood projects. Don’t like covering up the beauty of wood with paint! Stains that inhance the wood grain is acceptable.

    Reply
  7. Edward

    How does one measure the wood for a picture frame (no miters) where the four corners are staggered for embellishment?

    Reply
  8. John

    I had the opportunity to use my router table as a jointer for the first time. All I can say is, “SWEEEEET!” The question now arises, how thick can I go? I am using a 2-1/4 HP router with 1/2″ collet. How long a bit can I use?

    Reply
    • John

      In general, I don’t like to cut deeper than 1/4″ but I have made cuts as deep as 3/4″ when cutting finger joints. I’ve changed to cutting finger joints on my table saw with a dado blade

      Reply
  9. John Slaughter

    I have a piece of 3/4″ red oak, 6″x32″, that has a bow that I didn’t notice before planing it down. What is the best way to get the bow out?
    Thanks.

    Reply
  10. Rick

    I have 2 questions the 1st one is the jig that you used to cut dovetail splines on the router table do you have plans for that jig. The second question is what is a good quality forstner bit, I have tried to buy some that I thought were good quality from a reputable company but they don’t seem to cut unless I put them in a handheld drill instead of a drill press and wiggled it back and forth a little. Thank you and I am from Vandalia Il.

    Reply
  11. Frank

    I want to install some pull-out shelf kits (sliding drawers) in some existing kitchen cabinets ( 32″wide x 23″ deep). Some kits I’ve seen online at Rockler have a 1/4″ thick melamine bottom as the bottom of the shelf. The slides for the shelf are rated at 100# maximum. I’m thinking the 1/4″ melamine bottom is not substantial enough and would “bow” with time and weight. Have you built pull-out shelves and, if so, what kind of material did you use for the bottom of the shelf?

    Reply
  12. Peter

    Hi, I have a glass football paperweight and would like to glue it to the wood base. What glue I should use? The bottom gluing size is oval, only 1.5″x1″. Thank you.

    Reply
  13. John

    On my first use of my router table for jointing, all I can say is SWEEEET! I have a 2-1/4 HP router with a 1/2″ collet. How tall of a bit can I use with it.

    Also, I have 3/4″ piece of red oak. It is 6″x32″. I discovered after planing it to thickness that it is a little bowed and cupped. What is the best way of straightening this out?

    Thanks.
    P.S. This is a duplicate of two questions I previously posted. I don’t see any questions in the queue.

    Reply
  14. Daniel

    What would be the best top-coat for a hickory desk to preserve as much of the original color and character as possible? I am leaning towards a water-based poly right now. Any advice regarding a brand? Thanks.

    Reply
  15. Steven B

    After setting my table saw blade height, the first several cuts are fine but then the height of the blade decreases several hundreds of an inch. I am using the locking feature of the table saw. Any suggestions.

    Reply
  16. Glenn

    From Tracy, CA. What is a good way to apply poly on furniture. I built a bar and used a brush for several coats of poly but there are still brush marks. Is spraying the only way to get a smooth surface?

    Reply
  17. Gary Coyne

    I’ve made several end-grain cutting boards following your video and have one main issue: when I use my router (2-1/2 hp) to flatten the final cutting board, the ends of the cherry are very rough requiring a lot of sanding to get a smooth surface. The maple survives this process much better. When you flatten the surface in the video with your router, you do not seem to have this problem. I’ve run my brand new bit (1-1/4” diameter) at slow speeds and faster speeds. I’ve removed about 1/8″ at a time and I’ve removed as little as 1/32″ at a time neither of which seems to make a difference. What am I missing, what should I do to not have this problem?

    For note: I’m from South Pasadena California

    Reply
    • John

      I use a router to flatten a lot of stuff and normally finish with either my drum sander or palm sander. Recently I was flattening AZ Sycamore with my 1 1/2″ bit and did not have the problems you have encountered.

      Reply
  18. Greg

    I’m in the process of building some small (4″x4″x12″) boxes out of white oak. I had originally planned to join the sides of the box using hand-cut dovetails, but the process of resawing and planing them didn’t go as smoothly as I had hoped. The sides are now only about 5/16″ thick. Would dovetails still be appropriate, or are the sides too thin for this joinery method?

    Reply
  19. Steve

    Steve from Connecticut.
    What glue will allow a long working time. I used Titebond III on a cabinet project. The glue on the plywood panels starts setting up prior to having all the sides in place.

    Reply
  20. John Singleton

    1 Where do you get your knife kits.
    2 I really enjoy your website and was wondering what do you do with your projects do you sell them?

    Reply
  21. Lawrence

    I recently purchased a Stanley No. 4 Smoothing plane – my first plane. I’m having a difficult time getting it tuned in. It either cuts too much or not enough. I can’t get it to the point where it cuts paper thin like others I’ve used in woodworking classes. I’ve been through your mini videos on the website. Any tips on the sequence of steps I should take?

    Reply
  22. Lindsay

    What is the best/quickest way to sand a long cylinder shape? Is there an electric sander that can handle this job?

    Reply
  23. Chuck

    do you have recommendations for improving finishing skills? the book that I purchased seemed overly complicated.

    Reply
  24. Wayne Gregor

    I am moving soon and have a chance to set up a small workshop but space is limited and I need a new table saw that is a step up from a basic saw. What brands and models do you recommend?

    Reply
  25. Kirk

    Threaded inserts or just screws is one stronger than the other?
    How deep should the hole be for an insert? Should the insert bottom out in the hole or should the hole be deeper to have extra room for the bolt to pass all the way through the insert?

    Reply
  26. Harry F

    Love your shows and the content I’ve purchased. I’m really new to finishing and want to know if I can use polyurethane over oil, or should I just go with an oil-based wipe-on finish?

    Reply
  27. George

    Would like some tips for re-sawing Hemlock planks on a table saw.. My band saw is not big enough for re-sawing.

    Reply
    • John

      First ensure the boards are the same thickness, use either biscuits (tight fitting) or dominos to help with the alignment. Put the boards on a clamp, I use long pipe clamps, after you apply the glue and get the boards positioned put a few cauls on the top of the boards running perpendicular to the boards (put wax paper under the cauls to prevent gluing the cauls to the boards). Clamp the ends of the cauls, check each seam with your fingers to ensure all is aligned. Sometimes I will put a clamp on each seam.

      Reply
  28. Denis

    I would like to know if you can explain to me after i have edged and planed my board and start ripping it in my table saw, it starts to close in on its self jamming my blade. And if i manage to rip it right through when i’m done ripping it, it’s completely warped and when i started ripping it was perfectly straight. Thanks.

    Reply
  29. Lindy Barron

    Hey wondering if you know anything about a take apart band saw blade. Saw one on the web, unable to locate for purchase. Thanks for any help. LB

    Reply
  30. Herb

    I’m an experienced woodworker, but at 81 years old myshop is one quarter of the living room. I don’t have a table saw. Is there any other small tool to rip wood?

    Reply
  31. Dan

    I have a 10″ table saw. My daughters bought me a 6″stacked dado as a gift. I think I will be okay with the 6″ but I wonder if I would be better off with an 8″ blade. What would you suggest? I’m new to woodworking so any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

    Reply
  32. Lindy

    Where can I find a take-apart (?) bandsaw blade? saw one on the web cannot locate one for purchase. Thanks for any help, LB.

    Reply
  33. Boyce

    Hi George. I recently bought a Triton Workcentre with router module and table saw module. I did this mainly for space constraints. What is your opinion of the table saw module and specifically the rip fence? thanks

    Reply
    • George Vondriska

      I’ve got a WorkCentre, and like it. I wish I didn’t have to lock the rip fence in two spots, but I can live with that. Overall, it works fine. For those not familiar with the tool, you can see it here http://amzn.to/2vtp8Va

      Reply
  34. karl

    Your inside-out video, works ok but, instead of double sided tape I glued ends 3/4″ outside the finished work piece. Lathe formed the inside to what I wanted. Using parting tool to just outside of parting pieces into. Sanded, sealer and Stained a dark walnut. With no top coat.
    I separated the pieces, placed them in the proper configuration, glued complete. Re-centered and finished piece. Your thoughts? Brighton, colo.

    Reply
  35. Judy

    from Norfolk, Va. I am building your sofa table from the furniture making class. My garage is unconditioned. Should I put the wood (using Poplar as my first run at building the table) in the house and take pieces out that I will be making, cutting etc out to the garage as needed? Are some woods more prone to wicking humidity from the air than others? How long is too long to leave wood that you are working with in an unconditioned space? If I don’t leave the wood in the house before and after working with it what am I risking with the Poplar version?

    Reply
    • George Vondriska

      It’s possible that some woods are more prone to absorbing moisture than others, but I don’t think that’s a huge issue. If there’s a big moisture/temperature difference between the house and garage I’d store the wood in the house, work it in the garage. If they’re similar, don’t bother. Even if you store the parts in the garage you’ll probably be ok. The top is designed to float, specifically so it’s capable of seasonally changing.

      Reply
  36. John Terdik

    Thin the Titebond to extend the tack time, following is from Titebond site
    Can Titebond Wood Glues Be Thinned?
    Yes. Most of our wood glues can be thinned with water up to 5% by weight or
    volume. Adding more than 5% water to our glues could negatively affect the
    bond strength. Titebond Polyurethane and Titebond Liquid Hide Glues can be
    thinned by carefully heating the bottle in a pan of warm water.

    Reply
  37. Ken Washington

    Titebond said I could add up to 10% water to slow drying, without affecting strength.

    Reply
  38. Frank

    I’ve used gray stain that was designed to look weathered and it gives the exact look you’ve got.

    Reply
  39. John Terdik

    Table saw for new shop, take a look at the jobsite sites from saw stop and Bosch REAXX both have safety stop feature, just don’t cut wet wood or nails

    Reply
  40. John Keese

    Northeast Georgia. Like the immediacy and real experience of viewing this live. Keep it real! Keep it up!

    Reply
  41. Kirk from Phoenix

    What software do you use when creating a 3-D carving for cutting on your CNC

    Reply
    • John

      As a min you need a set of sharpening stones. I have a set of ceramic I use with a holder, today I’d get the diamond plates, I shapren to 8000 grit, I also use a JET slow speed sharpener

      Reply
  42. John Terdik

    To properly setup a bandsaw see alex snodgrass bandsaw on YouTube. I also highly recommend using Carter Products bandsaw blades

    Reply
  43. Dan Dugan

    Dan from Pittsburgh…
    My daughters bought me a 6″ stacked dado blade as a gift. I think this will work fine on my 10″ table
    saw but I was told I would be much better off with an 8″ blade. I’m new to woodworking so what would you recommend? Any advice is greatly appreciated, Thank you in advance

    Reply
  44. Jed

    My existing Delta miter saw is starting to show it’s age. Currently I use it with Biesemeyer side outfeed tables. Do you think the Festool Kapex saw is worth the extra money. In fact are any of the Festool tools worth the premium price? I fear I am going to have to modify my Biesemeyer miter tables to match the height of whatever brand I buy. If the Kapex is not your first choice what would be. Do the setup of my miter fence, ( sitting on built in 24 inch deep cabinets ) I don’t have the depth for a sliding saw. Have you used the bosch articulating saw? I have heard it’s difficult to keep it dialed in.
    Thanks

    Reply
    • John

      I was seriously considering the Kapex but decided on the Bosch GCM12SD 120-Volt 12-Inch DB Glide Miter The only thing I think I will miss is the double laser guides, e.g. one on each side of the blade. You can get a laser from Bosch for one side but not both sides. This saw will work on your 24″ deep cabinets.

      Reply
    • George Vondriska

      I’ve got the Kapex and the Bosch, and like them both. I also have a handful of Festool sanders, and their Domino. They do make good tools. I’ve never had accuracy issues with the Bosch saw.

      Reply
  45. Steve

    On the open time question earlier. Titebond shows the same open time for Original as III. I chose III then for versatility.

    Reply
    • George Vondriska

      Nothing on the calendar, but if you talk to the store manager about me, and they want to bring me in, I’d love to come out.

      Reply
  46. tom nelson

    Thanks I just started turning about a year ago,don’t what i am doing but have fun. San Jose,CA

    Reply
  47. Mark Blacketer

    Just a request…give us huddled masses a day or two reminder before the live Q & A. I like to watch them live but I usually remember/find out about the telecast when the notification comes up that it started xxx minutes ago.

    Reply
  48. Chuck O'Reilly

    I’m an amateur woodworker in Yuma, AZ which is normally a wee bit hotter than most places and have discovered Titebond Type II Extend which works well for me as it has a longer set time. Was discouraging to have the glue dry before I could join 2 boards together before I found this.

    Reply
  49. Stephen

    As for your weathered oak table, just finished a tabletop using Verathane’s Weathered Wood Accelerator and it started out grey after 2 coats. Then changed colors when I applied a water based poly to almost walnut or dark walnut. And even darkened with a second coat of poly. The finished product was great but it did change colors in the process, so test on scraps.

    Reply
  50. Sam

    Wow great video sir . the video may help many with problems that they are facing during their woodworking projects . please keep doing the good work . and please let me add a suggestion here for a good wood working project collections . it has more than 150 diy projects . just check that out guys you wont be disappointed https://tinyurl.com/y8e3kt9s .

    Reply