Removing Chalk Marks from Wood

“I recently built my daughter a book case with maple plywood. I made a homemade pegboard jig for drilling the shelf support hole. On this jig, I used blue chalk to mark the holes for drilling. Some of the chalk got on the maple. I brushed it away. Most of the chalk was brushed off. Some chalk remained.

I did not worry about it at the time. I thought I could get it off later by lightly sanding or washing it off with a damp rag. Big mistake. Sanding did not work. Sanding too much and I would blow through the top layer. I tried spraying with bleach and a card scraper and probably a few other things that I can’t remember now.

Is there something else I could have done?”

Submitted by: afamig

WWGOA Editor Response:

I suspect a solvent, like denatured alcohol, would have been a better wiping choice than water. Put a little chalk on a piece of scrap and try removing it with the alcohol to make sure it works next time. You can find denatured alcohol at home centers and paint stores.

George Vondriska

Managing Editor

Got a woodworking question you need answered? Comment or Email us at editor@wwgoa.com

Discussion
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7 Responses to “Removing Chalk Marks from Wood”
  1. Rich Taylor

    Instead of chalk, I prefer lumber crayons like those from Dixon. You can use different colors for different applications, and they don’t get down into the grain like chalk does. I’ve never had any marks left over from the regular sanding a piece gets, but I have experimented and found naptha removes them even without sanding.

    Reply
  2. Jerry Bandy

    I’ve done the same thing. I used my air chuck (rubber tipped) to blow it all away.

    Reply
  3. Grover Carico

    You’d probably have better luck with vinegar. I’m not sure about the blue part, but chalk is calcium carbonate and will likely react in a similar manner as the fizzy reaction you get with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and vinegar.

    Reply
  4. eggsngrits

    Cleaning putty (the type intended for cleaning dust from computer keyboards and auto vents) can help.

    Reply
  5. Jon P

    A couple other options I would have tried before using a liquid wash would be compressed air or brushing with a fine wire brush. With regard to the latter, I’ve often used a drill-mounted wire brush with very fine stainless steel wire as well as a clothes brush with very fine brass wire to clean out/cleanup grain on refinishing projects.

    Reply
  6. Jim Oliveri

    If it’s possible, try using compressed air. I find it works well especially using an air nozzle that you can control the force of the airflow. Obviously starting out with a low flow and increasing the flow as needed.

    Reply
  7. Bob Bellhouse

    Several cycles of vacuuming and blowing with compressed air does it for me. Vacuum first.

    Reply