There are LOTS of options for top coating your projects, and the choices can be very confusing. This video breaks top coat finishes into various categories, and explains advantages and disadvantages of individual finishes. It’ll help make choosing finish for your next project a lot easier.
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I made wall plaques with inscriptions. The hand-lettering artist used acrylic paint, and she insisted on starting with unfinished wood.
NOW, I want to finish the plaques. Sanding between finish layers will be problematic since I do not want to knock off the raised hand lettering.
I thought to use water-based Minwax Satin Polycrylic for the brush-friendly, quick- drying attributes.
How to resolve my sanding problem?
Thank you for your time.
Hi Dave. When I sand between finish coats, I use 320 grit paper, and lightly hand sand. I put two coats on before I do any sanding. I wouldn’t expect this to cause any problems with the lettering.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
When should you use a wax finish? What are the pro’s and cons? My project is an oak headboard. I’ve stained it with Min Wax true black.
Hey Robert,
Our expert Paul has some advice for you:
Hi Robert,
The only application that I recommend wax for is a beeswax and mineral oil blend for cutting boards. For furniture I do not like to use wax because it gets hazy over time and needs to be reapplied. I’m not a fan of maintenance; I’d rather use a more durable finish such as poly that doesn’t require periodic reapplication.
That said, if you like wax finishes, you can use them on anything that doesn’t require moisture resistance. They do not hold up well to moisture.
Paul
Happy Woodworking!
Madeline
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
Ticket 19611 Im about finished with building a crib for my first child. Im still deciding on finish, what are your thoughts on Rubio Monocoat? Is it worth the money? Or do you think I can get the exact same effect from something ill find at the hardware store? Any input from anyone would be awesome!
Dear Michael,
Thank you for your patience. In regards to your question-
I don’t have any experience with that product. I finished my child’s crib with Watco clear Danish Oil. If I had it to do over I would use mineral oil, and just apply a fresh coat each time a new child started to use it. Mineral oil is non-toxic, easily repaired and very easy to use.
Sincerely,
Paul
WWGOA Video Membership
Can I put Poly over the Watco Danish Oil?
Hello. Yes you can. But I would suggest using oil based poly for this rather than water based. And I would let the Watco cure for a few days before applying the top coat. Also, wipe it down with mineral spirits and then let it dry before applying the poly, to remove any Watco that remains at the surface.
Thanks
Paul-WWGOA
Dear Alejandro,
Thank you for your patience. In regards to your question-
Yes you can. But I would suggest using oil based poly for this rather than water based. And I would let the Watco cure for a few days before applying the top coat. Also, wipe it down with mineral spirits and then let it dry before applying the poly, to remove any Watco that remains at the surface.
Sincerely,
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
I was not aware you could use shellac in between coats of poly. Question; Is that recommended, and for what reason? Would it be strictly for adhesion purposes or does the shellac between coats add an extra dimension to the finished piece ?
For my first coat I always use equal parts of tung oil, poly and mineral spirits and I apply it with 400 grit wet/dry while constantly wiping off the slurry as I go to get the smoothest surface I can. I sand between coats w/600 grit wet/dry dipped in Min. spirits and then wipe it down. Is this the point when I should apply the shellac, before and after each coat of my rubbing poly? Do you think it would enhance the finished look?
Thanks
Hi Keith, others may have more experience with poly/shellac, but I don’t think there’s any compelling reason to put shellac between coats of poly. I don’t think it would enhance the appearance or protection. It’s good to know that it can be done so that if you ever come across a project of unknown origin that needs a new finish, you’ll know you can shellac cover the existing coat and apply a new top coat.
There is a world of difference between water-borne products (mostly acrylic) and oil-based varnishes. They “cure” differently and at much different rates, they’re chemically different, and often they have different coloring properties.
Normally, you can intermix oil-based products (oil, mineral spirits, and oil-based varnishes) in any proportions. Be aware though, that unless it says 100% pure tung oil, you are getting one of the imposter “Tung Oil Finishes” most of which don’t contain tung oil as an ingredient or component of varnish. They are normally either thinned varnishes or oil-varnish blends.
Of course, the real question is “Why would you want to do this?” Tung oil has a mystique about it that I don’t understand. It’s more expensive, harder to apply, if you mess up application, you have to strip and start over, and provides no real advantages over boiled linseed oil.
In fact, the Watco Danish Oil shown in the video is not “oil” but an
oil-varnish blend. While it’s undergone several owners in the last 30
years, the most recent formulation I found was roughly 2/3 mineral
spirits (which thins the solution and evaporates away, contributing
nothing to the final finish), 2/9 linseed oil, and 1/9 varnish, with
traces of driers and/or colorants.
It’s just a shame that manufacturers persist in deceptive labeling and naming of their products. It makes what should be simple science into confusing and misleading information.
Thanks, Keith, for the info.
I put the pol over the Watco oil all the time. It works fine and is easy to repair.
can you put Poly overtop of Lacquer like you can with Shellac?
Hi Daniel, I wouldn’t advise putting poly over lacquer. But to be completely certain, I would recommend you contact the poly manufacturer and ask them.
Big issue here is adhesion. Poly does not adhere to stuff as well as some of the other finishes. Shellac in between would make a good barrier/bonder coat (assuming you use de-waxed shellac as poly does not adhere well to waxed)