Comments on: Workaround: Table Saw Resawing

By: Kirill Belooussov

Kirill Belooussov — Sun, 14 Apr 2024 20:18:13 +0000

Great article and advises. Even for an experienced woodworker those are a great reminders of safety, when using table and band saws.

By: B

Fri, 20 Oct 2023 20:31:23 +0000

In reply to HERVE. In addition to still not having a correct photo years later.... this is a very unsafe method and surprised it is being published. Rethinking my subscription to WWGA.

By: Jay

Jay — Fri, 20 Oct 2023 16:05:54 +0000

On the table saw, the blade is unlikely to be in the exact center of the work piece. After the first cut, rotate the work piece 180° so that the same side is against the fence.
If the slot in your table insert is too wide, the resawed piece could fall into the slot right next to the blade. Don’t try to rescue it while the blade is spinning! You may want to make your own zero clearance insert with its slot just wide enough to clear the blade. Using the current, metal insert as a template, you can use a router with a template/flush trim bit to cut the zero clearance insert to perfect size. It will need to be thin enough to be level with the top of the table saw. Drill a 3/4″ hole in it so that you can more easily pull it out with a finger.
When making the last cut in the table saw in the situation where the 2 pieces will be totally separated, I turn off the saw for the last 1/8″ amount of the cut and let the momentum of the motor and blade finish the cut. That way, the probability of kickback is reduced and I have better control of both pieces.
The cut surfaces will not be perfect. They will need to be planer and sanded, so you will need to account for the additional loss of thickness of your finished work pieces.
Be careful. The table, miter and band saws are the most dangerous tools in your wood shop.

By: HERVE

HERVE — Fri, 20 Oct 2023 02:59:03 +0000

In reply to mixasi. 8 years later and none of the images have been corrected… safety first… right…

By: Klaus Wittann

Klaus Wittann — Fri, 20 Oct 2023 01:19:51 +0000

In reply to mixasi. I cut the slot on all 4 sides to provide a guide for the band or hand saw.

By: K

Sat, 02 Jan 2021 20:01:02 +0000

In reply to Chris. I noticed that too, thought I missed something. Hope nobody tries doing that, good things won’t happen.

By: Chris

Chris — Sat, 31 Oct 2020 05:24:33 +0000

Umm, the featherboard should be positioned before the leading edge of saw blade so that it is pushing the wood against the fence instead of against the blade. The way the photo shows the featherboard positioned will encourage the featherboard to push the kerf closed into the side of the blade, increasing the chance of pinching the blade and kickback. Not smart!

By: Steve

Steve — Wed, 15 Aug 2018 20:11:30 +0000

I’ve used the same method, and for pieces too wide for the bandsaw, I’ve got two methods. First, I put the piece in a vise and used a hand saw to follow the slot. I also got good results with a 12″ blade on the Sawzall. Only recommended with a brand new (veru straight) blade, and moving slowly and carefully. Much easier and less tiring than hand sawing through a few feet of black walnut, though ;) Also, on the bandsaw I used two small spacers to stick in the kerf once I got the cut started, to keep from binding, then I can hold the board between my hands and “pull” it through the bandsaw, seems a bit safer than pushing against all that exposed blade.

By: mixasi

mixasi — Mon, 04 Dec 2017 13:39:33 +0000

In reply to Chris. It is a fine image showing how to shorten you box. One day it will come in handy!

By: Chris

Chris — Thu, 10 Mar 2016 15:15:18 +0000

In reply to WWGOA Team. Guess you didnt have time to fix the 2nd image. Still a good article though. Im going to try this, but instead of the band saw, which I don't have, I will use a hand saw to finish my cut.