Hello Christopher,

Thank you for being patient while I asked the experts, here is the reply:

You can close the jar with the lid.
Paul

Woodworkers Guild of America

Charles,

“Can I still clean my fretboard with lemon oil when it is required for instance or would this affect or wipe out the ebonizing?”
-(WWGOA) I don’t believe that you will have a problem with this, but I would suggest testing on a piece of scrap, or in an inconspicuous area, before completing the final project.

“You also described the process of sanding the wood ever so slightly beforehand so to avoid the wood rising like a sort of velvety texture. Would this be required since the fretboard is new?”
-(WWGOA) Yes, you will still want to do this light sanding as the wood is grain is likely to raise on the new wood from the ebonizing process. If the grain doesn’t raise, then you can skip the sanding step.

“Last question, does ebonizing affect the density or structure of the wood in any way? Thanks again for sharing.”
-(WWGOA) It doesn’t have any effect on density or structure that I’ve ever detected.

Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America

Thanks for publishing this interesting piece of your knowledge on the subject. I do have a question for you. I intend on ebonizing the fretboard of my guitar. The fretboard is made of amaranth which I understand is a variation (Brazilian if I recall) of rosewood. Now, I want to stick to non invasive or destructive products to achieve that, what I am wondering though is once If have achieve ebonizing (hopefully) can I still clean my fretboard with lemon oil when it is required for instance or would this affect or wipe out the ebonizing? You also described the process of sanding the wood ever so slightly beforehand so to avoid the wood rising like a sort of velvety texture. Would this be required since the fretboard is new? Last question, does ebonizing affect the density or structure of the wood in any way? Thanks again for sharing.

I accidently ebonized large sections of a pair of cherrywood end table legs. I was removing a recently applied stain after deciding to go for a natural unfinished look of just shellacking after seeing the table tops come out so nicely unstained. So when I was using an initial finish and stain remover and steel wool. I was applying too much pressure with the steel wool to clean the cherrywood leg surfaces. Applied too heavily and to save on the remaining remover solution I was spraying, I had the legs over a metal pan to collect the excess spray and run off. I used the excess to reapply the last two legs which was why the latter two of the four legs ebonized and the first two didn’t.

At first I was planning to sand away the blackened portions but it ended up being way too much labor and time due to all the small routed detail spun into the styling of the table legs. Hours and hours to remove and the waste of sanding sponge pads and sheets and sheets of various grit was too much work to continue on removing it down to an a original wood layer and especially very difficult if the oxidation that took place to ebonize the wood runs deep. Now, I am about to use some oxalic acid, specifically a well shook bottle of “Bar Keepers Friend” soft cleanser to lighten and remove the ebonized areas.

Hi Louise. I have never attempted to lighten this up. I would try sanding back the finish, and perhaps some of this to the wood. https://amzn.to/2LGOVSf
Your idea of whitewashing might work as well. With either of these approaches I would test on scrap first, or at least an inconspicuous area of the project.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

Hello. I haven’t tried that, but it sounds interesting. If you try it, please let us know the results!
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America

Does hemlock bark work. It was used back in the day for tanning leather.