WWGOA LIVE! August 2015

Another LIVE session complete! Once again, it was a lot of fun, and you provided great questions for us. We tried some new work with graphics and images. Hope you like them, and that they help make the answers more clear. Make sure to keep an eye out for our next session.


Discussion
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43 Responses to “WWGOA LIVE! August 2015”
    • John

      Glue a rail on each side on a flat surface with the warped board in between. the rails have to be at least as tall as the board is at it’s highest. now Run this assembly through the planner til you have a flat board.then flip and plane the other side flat

      Reply
    • Joe

      one of my boards looks like it’s going to split. Do I need to use another or can it be strengthened

      Reply
  1. Bob

    When I build simple drawers and mount them on metal drawer runners, they always come out uneven in the front. One side of the drawer is further into the cabinet than the other. What am I doing wrong?

    Reply
  2. Derrick

    Two questions: Who is your favorite woodworker and why? What do you think the next big “thing” will be in woodworking?

    Reply
  3. gnuckols

    George, do you have any general tips for aligning the blade to the miter slots on a contractor-style table saw? Between the difficulty accessing the bolts holding the trunnions to the table top and the fact that the alignment seems to shift slightly when the bolts are tightened (at least on my Ridgid), I find it very difficult to get good alignment. Thank you, and thanks for all the wonderful resources available through WWGOA!

    Reply
    • EZgoing

      One tip I’ve used when tightening a bolt ‘moves’ the item being secured, is to use 2 washers, so one can ‘slip’ on the other as it’s being tightened down. In some situations, those very thin brass washers ‘under’ the main steel washer are enough to eliminate the problem and still transfer the fastening power needed.

      Another item that may help, is called a Contractor Saw-PAL…

      http://in-lineindustries.com/products/contractor-saw-pals/

      I’ve had very good luck using them on the last saw I had, and plan on using them on the 1960’s era Craftsman saw I’m rebuilding from the ground up… Well worth the investment in my opinion… (and NO, I have zero connection with the Saw-PAL company), just like their product.

      Reply
  4. Gentil

    My name is Gentil, I am 63 years old ,I am Brazilian, live in Suzano, SP. I would like to learn more about the use of screws or glue?

    Reply
    • Rocky

      I usually use both and if the screws get in the way of trimming remove them after a couple days the glue a good wood grade glue, would have already done its job.

      Reply
  5. Silvana Ribeiro

    Greetings from Silvana in São Paulo, Brazil. Thank you for all the great tips. Especially about the sanders.

    Reply
  6. John carruthers. (Australia)

    Any hints on fixing hinges to small boxes. How deep to cut hinge inset. I always have problem with uneven gap between lid and base or box doesn’t close properly

    Reply
  7. Gary Jackson

    Hi George, I was wondering if there was a good “sealer” for MDF that would go under several coats of polyurethane ? I am planning a crosscut sled, and was going to use MDF for it.

    Thanks….Gary

    Reply
    • piet.nel

      I have used normal wood glue thinned with water (to about the same consistency of sanding sealer) on the edges, and then applied sanding sealer all over before painting. Works very good !

      Reply
  8. Ken Thayer

    Is there any reason I shouldn’t use Titebond III for all my gluing needs?

    Reply
    • Werner Pretorius

      Hi Ken. Have you visited http://www.kregtool.com yet? When using these jig systems, glue is optional. In my two years of working with the Kreg Systems, I have not once used glue, and the joints are incredibly strong. You must try this.

      Reply
  9. johnvickib

    What is the best plywood grade for cabinets? Can you get it at the home stores? What thickness is best for shelves (1/2″ is hard to find)?

    Reply
  10. bobthebuilder

    Do you have any rule of thumb advice on when you should mill your project parts during a project and keeping the wood parts acclimated to the shop so it doesn’t change dimension as you make parts and build?

    Reply
  11. Riverside California

    I would like o build your raised planter box. Here in Souther California I’ve been unable to find cedar decking; especially 5/4 cedar. It seems to be more available back east.

    Do you have a suggestion for a reasonable substitute?

    Reply
    • steve4617

      In California, Redwood would be a good choice vs Cedar. I live in Northern Cal and we have lots of Redwood in the stores. I would like Georges opinion on Redwood vs Cedar.

      Reply
    • William Pugh

      If you have a Lowes or Home Depot, you should be able to find your cedar material there.

      Reply
  12. Bob

    I have been taking down an old barn for the wood. Do you have a recommendation for the best metal detector to find those nails that I know I have missed. Also, do you have a technique to get out nails that may be hidden or broken off the surface of the wood with the least amount of destruction of the wood.

    Reply
  13. Monte Mace

    I’m having trouble making box joints. I’ve used a wooden pin with a guide board on my table saw using a dado blade. But the pin openings were uneven. Your advice please.

    Monte M, Lawrence KS

    Reply
  14. AJ Moses

    I use Titebond glue in my shop – George, do you think Titebond II or Titebond III is best for rolling pins and cutting boards?

    Reply
  15. Sonja Andras

    We had a computer freeze. We’re working on it. We’ll be back shortly to wrap up.

    Reply
  16. gladtidings

    got my Q in too late on the last one – I made a tongue drum with ten tongues top with Paduk – when I cut the tongues, I was only half done and noticed the tongues started TWISTING! and they all did not twist the same… was this a characteristic of the Paduk? or was the wood too dry or damp? or just a nutty thing? The drum sounded incredible when done and tuned, but I had to plane down the proud edges. ???

    Reply
  17. Mike H

    I bought a good quality curved spokeshave and sharpened the blade. I don’t seem to have the knack of using it – can’t get a nice smooth shaving. Seems to catch and chip out even with the thinest shaving. Can you show how to do this and get good results?

    Reply
  18. Mark Kirchhoff

    I’ve used an electric sprayer to finish projects but frequently have a lot of bubbles. Do you have some suggestions for how to regulate the spray?

    Reply
  19. Eric Wilcox

    Hi George – I made all your Adirondack templates out of 1/8″ hardboard. Have not started my builds yet (building four). Wish I would have used 1/4″ instead, for purposes of more easily using a flush trim router bit to clean up all my bandsaw cuts. Would you suggest I make new 1/4″ templates, or try to make the 1/8″ templates work with my router bits? FYI, using a router table. I suppose I can make one set of good final parts, and flush trim off of those, but that doesn’t solve the problem for future Adirondack builds. Thoughts?

    Reply
  20. John Effer

    I notice today that most furniture is made of chipboard. I absolutely refuse to use this crap material. It should be banned from the building industry altogether.

    Reply
  21. gmkrupka

    Hi George,
    I am in the process of making a few birch 6″ diameter bowls. You use a mixture of 1/3 shellac, 1/3 mineral spirits and 1/3 linseed oil to seal the wood. My question is, is this a safe combination for serving food like salads in the bowl once this mixture is used on the bowl? If not what would you recommend? Thank you.

    Best Regards,

    Jerry

    Reply
  22. luther42

    I recently read an article about sharpening which referred to “flattening a waterstone”, but it didn’t say how to do it. So, how does one do it?

    Reply