This was a great live session, and we covered a lot of woodworking topics. We really appreciate the wonderful questions you ask, and we work hard to get to as many as possible. Thanks to Kayleen McCabe for spending time with us, and providing her insight. Hope to have her back!
PLEASE SEND ME THE BIRD HOUSE PLAN
I just getting getting Handy Man material and really enjoy it. I do a lot of wood work and enjoy reading how others do their projects. Plus all the good ideas you all have come up with to make things easier.
Hi Cary. Here is a downloadable plan: http://www.wwgoa.com/plan/cedar-birdhouse/
Here is a video based plan for a different style of birdhouse, where everything that you should need is included in the video: http://www.wwgoa.com/video/how-to-build-a-birdhouse-birdhouse-plans-001109/
I consider myself a pretty open minded person but your guess from CO, Kayleen, completely destroyed the Live show due to her pre-show partying.
Lose Gayleen. She was very silly and distracting. George would have been able to answer many more questions without her clapping, ridiculous gestures and stupid comments and references. She added very, very little to the podcast. George was great! Thank you
I love your sessions, but this one seems to have segment freeze-ups!
Viewing from London in the UK.
Constructing curves – plastic curtain track is good.
I live in Victoria Kansas
looking forward to show
I simply put four louvre doors together to make a elongated box shape: Then cut one up to make end panels. I had one more panel which I used to make back support, secured all these together sanded it all down repainted most of it. It does look like louvre doors any more it looks what it was always mention to be a bench well almost not quite yet but you know some times you just need a little help now and then from friends.
My question is about sanding in prep for stain. I am refinishing a 100 year-old oak dresser. After stripping off the old finish. What is the grit sequence before staining?
I normally use a random orbital sander and use the following sequence:
80, 120, 180, 220, and if I am going to apply a stain, I’ll go to 320 grit
George: Please don’t have this lady on again. She is silly and really never answered most question and deferred to you. Please…don’t have her cohost with you again. forgive my negativeness but this has been a waste of time watching todau’s webcast.
Which router table do you like best, separate or part of a table saw fence?
Round Rock, TX. Love your show. I wasn’t impressed with your guest Kayleen Mc Cabe. I didn’t feel she added to the discussion and was too silly for my taste.
Have you ever used the domino festool and if so what are your thoughts on it?
I do power carving creating a whole lot of wood dust. I generally do that in a 6′ x 14′ work area. What is a suggested mask to be used (for hours at a time); and also suggestions for a portable (rolling) dust collector (need very fine particle capability).
watching from Ottawa, Ontario Canada
I am going to do your Cremation cask, the 4 sides and the 4 columns are held together by splines. I noticed the slots were not cut into the column and the sides. wouldn’t it make it easier to square everything off?? Mike
# 2 morse taper reamer Brom Use-Enco catalog ,# 891-4730
My first one of these
Massachusetts
Not to be critical – but there needs to be less “cheerleading” from guest speakers and more questions answered. Those of us watching are already sold on the values of woodworking. We just need to hear from other’s experiences.
Have been a member for a while and just want to say thank you for the fine job you do with wgoa
Watching from Columbus, OH
Watching from La Crosse, Wisconsin
Great show Thanks George
Iam in Arizona
mi
grand rapids,mi
Apanleptry this is what the esteemed Willis was talkin’ ’bout.
From Iowa City, IA again . . . please provide more info on the class(es?) you’re teaching in Iowa this weekend!
I’m teaching at Weekend With Wood Fri-Sun. Put on by WOOD Magazine in Des Moines.
Ireland
George? You timed out on the part about the Domino thing for Mortise and Tenon? I am very interested. Please let me know. Nashville tn
I use a Domino all the time. I have both sizes of machines. They work great any place you’d use a mortise and tenon.
On question about can’t tilt blade. Trunion gets sawdust build up therefore restricts movement. If enough force, you can shatter trunion. Keep trunion clean. I have a 1949 saw.
Los Angeles
Greetings from California! Thanks George and Kayleen.
Fremont, IN
Super Cool
The rolling cart you talked about earlier in the session? Does premium membership allow you this video? The one I found cost a few bucks. Just checking.. Tyvm..Michael from Nashville
Thank you very much for your time! Fort Worth TX
Curve layout, How about a bandsaw segment?
Stillwater, MN
From Canada: after using an oil based stain can one finish with a water based polyurethane?
Satanand
There has to be ample drying time for the stain so it doesn’t continue to “flash” and affect the water based top coat.
Oklahoma
would love to see how you did the detailed layout of the 3D Rose bandsaw cut that you did PLEASE? Nashville TN
You can get the drawing of the tulip here http://www.wwgoa.com/video/making-compound-cuts-on-the-bandsaw-009524/
FYI When I submit…the picture is lost and I need to use the back button to return to it. In the past this was not happening.
I am from Boulder CO but live in Fayetteville GA
Watching from La Paz, Baja California Sur, Mexico
Edmond, OK Always look forward to these Q&A sessions!
Muhlenberg County, Kentucky
Lakefield MN
San Pedro, CA
laguna beach
What’s the best way to repair damage (small gash ) to a recently finished cabinet that was stained and finsihed with 4 top coats. Should I sand the gash area and then re stain and re top coat?
Del Rio, Texas
Scantling is a common term for poor grade timber members. It is non structural, usually very knotty with lots of defects. It is sold in our Australian hardware stores as Non Structural timber
Just to clarify a bit further, the original use of the term “Scantling” was a set of standard dimensions for parts of a structure especially in shipbuilding. The more “modern” use amongst tradesmen of my era in Australia and England was used to describe a small section of timber with little structural significance, although I haven’t heard the term used in years, especially amongst the younger generation of carpenters. We/I (in Australia) still use the term to describe what most people would call “rubbish” timber sections. And finally for you George. I am in Newcastle, NSW, Australia and find your site and webcasts vey informative, even if you do speak funny!!!!!
Try staining all sides at the same time. Adding moisture to only one side will cause the problem.
If only one side is being stained, it would introduce moisture unevenly. Especially if the stain is water based.
Is there a single surface melamine made? This would lend itself to lamination for solid table tops.
There may be, but don’t be afraid to laminate over two sided melamine, as long as you scuff the melamine before laminating so the glue can bond.
Haahahha. I’m not too bright today. Great post!
What is the best finish for a wooden cup or mug.
From Port Neches, Texas
Research bowl turning finishes. I know they’re safe for bowls, but I’m not sure if they are or aren’t safe for mugs or cups. If the can itself doesn’t tell you, you can check with the manufacturer. Behlens Salad Bowl finish is an example.
Favorite method for laying out curves, like a curved apron on a table?
On Amazon.com MLCS 9327 Flexible Curve or Adjustable Curve or shop-made http://www.wwgoa.com/video/how-to-make-a-bow-adjustable-curve-layout-002922/
Is there anything wrong with using saw dust and wood glue for a filler?
You need really fine dust, like a sander would produce. If it’s too coarse, it won’t go into the void. I often mix it with cyanoacrylate glue. Work fast…
From Satanand: I wonder if “scant” is referring to “scantling” It is probably of English origin, and refers to timbers that are square in cross section. From the context, probably the person can let us know if it makes sense in his case.
FYI…I save advertising credit cards that we all get in the junk mail. They work really work well, for jamming glue in a crack, a shim for lining things up on a jig, scrapping wood putty into areas. FYI
why does my blade not tilt when i push it to the right on 1952 contractor table saw? the tilt handle is intergraded with the height adjustment handle. i have lubricate it with Gluidecoat. if the center bolt of the trunnions is to tight it will not tilt
Your trunions may have a sawdust build up. Make sure they are clean. If you force it, you can shatter trunions
when i dry assemble a project..everything is square and level. When I stain, varathane and reassemble it’s not. Any tips on how I can fix this. I am a brand new woodworker
How fine is fine enough for sanding projects that will receive a clear finish? A stained/dyed finish?
I generally sand to 180 or so. This video provides good insight into how sanding affects stain http://www.wwgoa.com/video/how-sanding-affects-your-stain-color-000911/
Can you talk to me about getting into the CNC hobby.
?Hardware suggestions – brand
?Software suggestions
VCarve is software used by many CNC machines. http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve.htm You can “test drive” it for free. Regarding machines, you need to explore budget, how large a machining area you want, available support….
I am calling from Mississauga, Canada. My band saw blade is 3″ wide. How to sharpen it, and at what angle?
Satanand
Sorry, but I don’t sharpen my bandsaw blades. I can understand doing so on such a big (and expensive) blade as you have. But I don’t know the answer.
I’ve got a large bed lathe, and have been doing a lot of bowl turning, and am finding that the bed is getting in my way w/ some of my larger turnings. The lathe has a 90-degree turn available, which i’ve not used, yet. have you any positive or negative experiences w/ using this 90-degree turn capability? Any guidance is appreciated. thx. jim
Mpls, MN
Ok, I’ll try again ” Where do you get your idea’s and inspiration for your next Big project?
Frued has certified sharpeners. Did a great job on my woodworker II
Great Job. Thank you for answering my question. Another question: Some of these plans are difficult for a beginner like me to do. I like the step by step instructions and videos. I am a 100% disabled Vet, and have a lot of time to devote. Can you make available authentic plans that have been shop tested? Plus, would love to see layout of the 3D Rose bandsaw cut that you did PLEASE?
You can get the plan for the bandsaw tulip here https://s3.amazonaws.com/tnmarketing/wwgoa/WWGOA-Tulip-Pattern.pdf
I suspect sanding dust from the cherry was in the maple.
When turning a piece on a lathe (I have a Jet 1642) and the head stock turns and the chuck stays still , even for a 1/2 second, is the inside of the morse taper ruined? If not how do I true things up.
What kinds of saw blades are worth sharpening (circular saw, band saw etc.) and where can you get that done?
Am I the only one who cannot find a “square ” square? Either the inside or outside is good with the small blade being tapered.
Hi yall.
great show
Looking forward to listening in on your show
An answer from an expert! Thanks for cotgtiburinn.
Hi, I just finished a vanity project. I built it out of poplar and baltic birch. The vanity is black, I started with black dye, then old masters spanish oak, lastly a coat of minx polycritic. I noticed lots of scratches and dings. Can I make a mixture of stain and poly and use it to clean up the scratches. They’re not that deep.
If the scratches are in the finish, not the wood, you could sand them out and reapply finish.
making a lattice…routing dadoes for half lap joints…3/4″…fits very tight..how to make the fit a little looser?
Sounds like the dado needs to be slightly larger. Add a shim if it’s a dado head. If it’s a router bit you either have to make two passes, or make the material slightly thinner to it fits into the dado easier.
What software is best for cutting list and set up.i could not find the optimizing software you recommended from the cabinet making video.
https://cutlistplus.com/download/
i am wanting to make a bigger saw table for my table saw. what is the best kind of wood to use so it won’t flex on me in the winter
Time to face the music armed with this great inofomatirn.
Is George going to continue to make the Woodworker’s Journal videos?
What is the correct way to attach cedar lining to the inside of a blanket chest? I assume that the inside of the chest carcass will have a finish on it.
Thanks… John
The last time I did this I used cedar that was tongue and groove. So, like putting in tongue and groove flooring, the tongue gets nailed, the groove of the next piece slips over it. And so on….
A ‘finishing’ question… Before staining, I fill nail holes with a wood filler. I usually see an area around the filled hole, where the wood filler has filled the wood grain/fibers (it appears as a blotch, about the size of my finger, around the area of the filled hole). What do you suggest to prevent this issue?
Have you ever used scrap wood planks on the grill? (fish). If so what are good woods to use. Do you use the festool dimino in cabinet building with pocket screws?
I use pocket screws on face frames. Dominoes where I’d otherwise use a mortise and tenon. I know people grill fish on cedar, but I’ve never done it.
I have been looking at drum sanders and like the SuperMax 19-38. Could you do a comparison between this drum sander and other popular models? Thank you.
Hi!!!!!
I bought a 10″ Porter-Cable table saw. I found out the Dado cut is only 1/2 with a 6′ dado. I guess my question is, to get what I thought was a normal 3/4 inch dado cut, I will have to go with a table saw that can handle the dado that can do it? Thanks..Michael
When cutting through dovetails on a porter cable jig using 1/2 plywood I get tear out on side facing away from jig? How can I avoid this?
Plywood is inherently chippy, so you need to be sure your bit is sharp, and a little climb cutting can help, too.
Hi, Paul. We have a series of videos that covers the PC 4212 jig. Start with this video, and you will see more links on the video page for the rest of the related videos: http://www.wwgoa.com/video/how-to-use-the-porter-cable-4212-dovetail-jig-004359/. Plywood is particularly chippy. Careful climb cut wherever possible, and use only very sharp bits when routing plywood.
Why do you always schedule these for the 3rd Wednesday? Our local woodworking club meets at the same time.
U r doing a great job.Pl keep it up. Thoroughly absorbing
I am trying to make Through Dovetails for Bee Boxes. I have followed the directions in the Video. Yet there still not coming out correctly. The size of the Boxes are as follows: 19-7/8″X9-5/8″X3/4″ this is the Long Sides and the Short Sides are 16-1/4″X9-5/8″X3/4″. It says in the directions for the short sides of the Langstroth Hive Cut List: For the Short Sides the 3/4″ fingerjoint, start your first cut at the bottom. Note that the top finger is 1-3/8″ (not 3/4″) Rabbet a cut 5/8″ wide by 3/8″ deep along the entire inside top length. Could you please help me to understand what I am doing Wrong. Especially the 3/4″finger joints, start your first cut at the bottom. Note that the top finger is 1-3/8″ (not 3/4″). Material is 1″X12″ Select Pine. I started with material ripped to the above dimensions. Could be this where the problem is? Glenn E. Bindley 316-880-2396
It sounds like an extra wide finger is being left at the top. Based on the material width, that seems to make sense. If you cut eleven 3/4″ fingers that is 8-1/4″ in width. The piece is 9-5/8″ wide, 1-3/8″ more than the 11 fingers.
Router Table or Shaper? Which one would you pick?
Hello and thank you for your question. We have an article that addresses this topic head on: http://www.wwgoa.com/article/shaper-vs-router-table/
I’m going to replace a plywood dining table top which has an oak laminate surface, with red oak planks. The finished top will be 42 x 60 inches. I’m planing the finished thickness to be 3/4 inch. Is there optimal width for each plank for glue up? Do you recommend simply gluing the planks together, or is there a better way (e.g. adding splines or biscuits in the joints). I do not currently own a biscuit joiner.
As long as you do a good job jointing the edges you don’t need to add reinforcement for strength. But biscuits would help keep the boards aligned as you glue them up.
Hi, Terry. If the wood is stable than you can use boards as wide as you’d like. I normally try to glue up planks that are less than 6″, because that way I have to remove less material if there is slight cupping. You will want to use a jointer, or router table setup to establish a perfectly square edge on the planks. Biscuits and splines are unnecessary for adding strength, but can aid in alignment at glue up time.
Excellent advice and help. Greatly appreciated.
Call me wind because I am abluoltesy blown away.
i am becoming quite the craftsman, thanks to WWGOA. keep up the great teaching skills.
Thanks. Glad you’re enjoying the site..
La carpinterÃa es uno de mis pasatiempos preferidos. Me gustarÃa recibir consejos
Glad that you’re enjoying woodworking. There’s lots of great info here. Hope it helps you.
Thank you
• What kind of finished did Joanie use on her intarsia projects that were shown on the April 2016 live show?
• What is the difference between sanding sealer and regular unwaxed shellac? When would you use one and not the other?
UNIONTOWN, OHIO
I recently made a end grain cutting cutting board from cherry and hard maple.I used mineral oil for the finish. My problem is that the mineral oil turn the hard maple to almost a cherry color. I sanded to a 180 grit. I what did I do wrong? Thanks, Dale
log in as daleweiman@hotmail.com
I recently made a end cutting board from cherry and hard maple. I sanded it to 180 grit. I used mineral oil. The problem is the hard maple turn almost the color of the cherry. Any ideas what I did wrong? Thanks, Dale
Hi, Dale. Sorry to hear that. You most likely didn’t do anything wrong. Wood is all different, and I’ve seen exactly what you are describing from time to time. The only thing that might make a subtle difference is to sand to a higher grit, like say 600, which will minimize the amount of oil that is absorbed and perhaps lessen the darkening effect that you are seeing. But the difference is likely to be subtle. The good news is that cherry will darken over time. If you set that cutting board outside in the sun for a few days you should see a noticeable darkening which will enhance the contrast that you are looking for
How can I get a good stainable putty for nail holes and other such repairs?
Hi, Dale. I do not believe that you will find a putty that is truly stainable. You will find some that make this claim, but essentially that just means that they will absorb stain, but there is no likelihood of a color match to your wood. My recommendations are to use one of these methods:
– for small holes, fill with CA glue and sanding dust- for larger holes, mix a batch of epoxy mixed with sanding dust of the same species as your project. Fill the hole, then sand flush after the epoxy has cured- if you want to use a commercially available putty, match the color of the putty to your stain, not the wood. Then apply after stain and 1 coat of topcoat. Then apply remaining topcoats. If you have to choose between the putty being lighter or darker than the stain, go with darker. It looks like a natural defect, where lighter putty seems to stand out more in a negative way.
I am trying to carve short logs such as Oak, Madrone, Fir, Cedar. I want to carve an animal inside, but I don’t know how to cure them and stop the bad cracking that destroys my carving. Can you suggest anything?
Hi, Floyd. I would suggest a product called Pentacryl for this, which is available from woodworking specialty stores. Here’s an article where AJ used Pentacryl to stabilize some log cuts: http://www.wwgoa.com/article/log-cookies-on-your-bandsaw/
Good job
What are good woods to use when you are just a beginner without having to spend a fortune learning?
Hi, Karl. Some good choices include #1 or #2 pine, construction lumber, or lumber salvaged from pallets. Pallet wood is readily available on many areas and is often free. Here are some tips for using this: http://www.wwgoa.com/video/working-with-pallet-wood-010225/
buen dia,sera posible que uds me puedan hacer en madera un avion 747-400 de 1.50 mts de largo? con un pedestal de 1.30mts de altura? yo lo pintaria lo quiero para adorno,bueno si es que no es mucha molestia. y me dirian el costo por favor’ aqui en mexico no hacen estas cosas se puede? mi cell 045 5522023265
Sorry, but we don’t provide wood products. We teach woodworking through this web site.
Hola que tal soy julian de tijuana y si hacen ese tipo de cosas aquà en México si gustas te puedo ayudar a conseguir el contacto en la cd de México cel 6641837401
I build birdhouses and need to miter a 6″ x 10″ roof to 150 degrees. My miter gauge doesn’t go that far and my compound miter saw won’t tilt past 45 degrees. What can I do?
Hi, Roger. The best way to do this is to hold the piece vertically using a tenon jig such as the one that Bruce uses in this article: http://www.wwgoa.com/article/tenoning-jig-how-to/
George also demonstrates this technique using a shop-made jig here: http://www.wwgoa.com/video/flag-case-plans-000127/
Once you have your work piece positioned vertically in the jig, you are able to set the blade to the appropriate angle to achieve your 150 degree miter.
It’s about time somoene wrote about this.
Looking forward to it!
Do you use SketchUp for you plans?
Hi, Gary. Our contributing editors use different design tools and are not constrained to a particular one, but SketchUp is becoming one of the popular choices.
I’m in the process of steam bending some white oak. When I remove the boards from the steam box, some of them have at lot of water/vapour stain on them. These stains have absorbed deep into the wood and are extremely hard to remove by sanding. Do you know of a better (or different) way of removing water stains from untreated white oak?
I have not encountered this specific problem, but I can imagine that you are right about this being difficult to remove via sanding. I would consider trying applying a light dye to essentially re-tone the wood and homogenize the color across the various areas of the wood. If you choose the right dye color you can approach the natural color of oak, and in fact bring out some of the richness in the wood. Obviously you will want to try this on scrap before applying anything to your actual project.
add white vinegar to the steam, bleach might work but it’s toxic to you. you will have to experiment on the ratio of water to vinegar