WWGOA LIVE! July 2016

Thanks for watching, and providing all your great questions. The live streams are a lot of fun. From table saw to planer to hand cut mortises, we covered a lot of ground.

:40 George’s bad joke
1:25 Kauri Wood
5:12 Cutting mortises. Hand cut techniques
10:12 Allowing for wood movement in solid panels
13:36 Sanding sealer vs. dewaxed shellac
14:50 Tung oil-Sand between coats?
16:00 Avoiding table saw kick back
20:00 Track saw or stationary tools
22:35 What size SawStop?
24:06 Imported plywood and frameless cabinets
26:50 3D carving on CNC machines
28:57 Boring for Euro hinges
31:56 Warped cherry. Case hardening? Now what?
35:07 Disassembling a cherry organ
37:14 WWGOA content on CNC machines
37:49 Curved irons on hand planes. What’s the deal?
38:45 How do I know when my blades are dull?
41:40 End grain bowls? Dry wood or green wood for bowls?
43:04 Bandsaw drift
44:21 Minimum thickness for edge gluing
44:57 Painting over top coats
46:42 Planing thin pieces
51:56 Planing cupped boards, or not
54:45 How to clean saw blades
57:55 Date of next WWGOA Live
58:12 Shop-made CNC routers
59:12 End grain tearing on bowls
1:02:00 Where are our viewers from?
1:04:36 Sheba the Benchdog and her tricks


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163 Responses to “WWGOA LIVE! July 2016”

  1. Brian Holman

    My hoby needs are kicking in and I need to know how to purchase and use a router properly.

    Reply
  2. Chris

    Not really anything to do with this live event but I would like to submit this tip to members and I can’t find anywhere on the site to leave such tips? I found the members tips page but no way of submitting them.
    So here is my tip, very recently I was building a garden shed with stud walls. The studding and any long lengths of wood that need to be the exact size. I don’t have a workshop, just a combination saw and a “pop up” folding table and a support stand alone adjustable stand for holding long pieces of wood. . So I fixed the wood in the combination saw at the exact length of what’s needed for multiple length of wood cuts. The end of the length of wood supported. I cut the length of wood at the required length and keep it in situ. Prior to cutting I nailed a vertical piece of plywood to end of this piece of wood, about 6 inches vertically. I then placed the second piece of wood on top of the first with its end up against the plywood. I make the cut. Then I repeat the process until the required number of timbers are cut. All cut lengths are therefore all the same length.

    Reply
  3. John Edmond

    Thank you; I REALLY appreciate your “index” of the show. Certainly makes it quicker to go back for a refresher course. Keep up the great work. John

    Reply
  4. Roger Leclercq

    Have you tried simple Green to clean blades it cuts through pitch but on craftsman blades it removes the labeling

    Reply
  5. Gary Hartnett

    Can you or I eliminate the banner? It interferers seeing the details on the bench. Thanks

    Reply
  6. Knox Michael

    Please give your assistant a dedicated mike. When I can only hear your answers I have to guess what the question might have been. Otherwise..terrific show.

    Reply
  7. Jim Isaac

    Very informative. I am a new woodworker but I love working with my hands and wood. I watched your show tonight from Eureka, Ca right on the redwood coast.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Richard. We are sorry to hear you are having trouble accessing your account. Please contact us at 1-855-253-0822; our Customer Service Team would be happy to assist you!

      Reply
  8. Richard R. Armstrong

    Ty George for making WWWGOA affordable for retired guys like me. I am building my shop in an 8’x20′ trailer and have all my tools and machines to start making pens & bowls. I have a Porter Cable router and a Craftsman table which I can’t see any way to get the router under the table. It’s a fixed base router, am I going to have to buy another router to make it work? Thank you and I am going to click on the banner to check things out so have a good evening.

    Reply
      • Richard

        It wouldn’t lineup with any of the holes in the table. Since then I have found a better Sears table and a router that works with BOTH tables. Thank you George, I’ve been watching every VID on your site.,I love the one on finishes.

        Reply
  9. Patrick Mason

    With my Jointer I get a snipe every time, how can I stop this from happening? I am from Vancouver, WA

    Reply
  10. Neil

    Im building a kitchen and need to build slab doors that are sprayed white ( a specific white) . Do you have any recommendations on door material and product for spraying? I was going to use laquer that’s been tinted but is there a better way?

    Reply
    • George Vondriska
      George Vondriska

      MDF, poplar, birch, and maple all paint well. I’d check with a paint store to get a pro’s opinion, but tinted lacquer or an enamel paint should work.

      Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Steve. Please contact us at 1-855-253-0822; our Customer Service Team would be happy to look into this further with you!

      Reply
  11. mbabbitt9

    My first time watching, will do again in August 31. From South Bend,Indiana

    Reply
  12. paul saya

    I signed in late to listen . I have a cutting board that is 2.5 in. thick by 19 by 33 in. I want to use it for a bathroom counter top and need to cut the width in half. Any suggestions how to do that?

    Reply
    • George Vondriska
      George Vondriska

      The width, 19″. Most table saws will handle up to 3″ of thickness, so you should be able to rip that on a table saw.

      Reply
  13. NMM

    The climate in Sri Lanka is somewhat humid throughout the year and maintaining hand tools clear from corrosion is a very difficult. What can I use to keep them clear of corrosion? – Hussein, Sri Lanka

    Reply
    • George Vondriska
      George Vondriska

      A coat of paste wax should help. I use an aerosol called GlideCote, but don’t know if it’s available in Sri Lanka

      Reply
  14. wombatds

    Watching from Perth Western Australia….great show George and helpers…..from Dave

    Reply
  15. Andy

    I understand steel pipe is best for dust collection. Does this apply for exhausting to outside also?

    Reply
    • George Vondriska
      George Vondriska

      I’m not clear on what you’re exhausting from the dust collection system. You might want to check with your dust collector manufacturer for their suggestion.

      Reply
  16. gardo

    gardo from Iowa City, Iowa: Just started using Waterlox original and love the ambering but I think I’m getting too much finish on because there’s pooling at the bottom of vertical surfaces. I’m using foam brushes but am thinking that wiping this product on (like with a chunk of t-shirt inside a piece of panty hose) would alleviate that. Have also been using a dry foam brush to take excess off . . . any other tips for using Waterlox Original?

    Reply
    • George Vondriska
      George Vondriska

      Sorry, but I’m not familiar with this product. I wonder if a finishing pad would work well. It’s shop made; a pad of cheese cloth wrapped in a cotton rag.

      Reply
  17. Andy

    Can you go through the process for creating wood blanks for turning from fresh cut or downed tree logs. Removing pith, coatings, environmental storage until turning etc?

    Reply
  18. Val

    I have 10 in. wide pine boards that are cupped. I want to mill them down so they are flat. My thickness planner does not work, it simply flattens the boards when they go thru the planner , the rollers flatten them out. Do you have a suggestion.

    Reply
  19. Harold Taback

    I have problems with the end grain in turning, particularly the inside of a bowl. I spend hours sanding it.

    Reply
  20. vandejo

    george, I have looked on wwgoa for hand saw sharpening with no luck where can i look? Joe way over in green bay

    Reply
  21. dave

    stillwater mn
    Great difficulty connecting, not only tonight, missed the first 20 minutes

    Reply
  22. Rob Edwards

    I was more interested in if there will be a video on how to make your own cnc routers, not buy one off the shelf. Also, is there a good resource for plain woodworking plans? I am wanting to make a vanity for the bathroom and have had limited success finding plans.

    Reply
  23. katie

    I am a new to woodworking and someone gave me a Dewalt DW745 compact job site table saw. I need a stand for the saw. What do you suggest if I don’t want to spend a lot of money.

    Reply
  24. kelley osborn

    I am re-purposing a 6ft wide tv cabinet/entertainment center into a child’s play kitchen and I need to prime and paint it. I would prefer to spray it with HVLP (I guess with latex paint) rather than use a brush and roller. I don’t have an HVLP yet but I do have a Craftsman Prof. Compressor 25gal 150psi and thought about purchasing an HVLP spray gun. I know this compressor might not keep up with it on this large project but that’s ok. What size tip should I use for latex paint? Would u suggest I buy the HVLP all in one unit (turbine/gun)? Maybe my compressor won’t be enough to put out latex paint..?? I will eventually have a much larger compressor though but not for this project. A little help please. Thanks

    Reply
    • George Vondriska
      George Vondriska

      I use a 1.4 tip on my HVLP turbine sprayer when spraying latex paint. I thin the paint about 20%, and it will level much better if you use a product like Floetrol as a paint additive. It helps the paint level out. Floetrol is available on Amazon.

      Reply
      • kelley osborn

        Thanks George.
        Most of the time I will be spraying thinner finishes than latex but I’m at a crossroads at deciding to buy an HVLP gun for my compressor or spending a lot more money on a complete HVLP turbine system.
        Do you think my current compressor can handle small jobs with and HVLP gravity feed gun?
        And do you think I could spray latex with it thinned like you suggested?
        Thanks

        Reply
        • Customer Service

          Hi, Kelley. Compressor-based HVLP guns gobble a lot of air. I use a turbine-based but, but from a little Google research it looks like many compressor-based HVLP guns need around 15-20 cfm (cubic feet per minute) of air. If your compressor can provide that, you’re good. If not, you may not get enough air to effectively atomize your finish, so will have lousy results. I’ve been doing a lot of experimenting with latex paint lately. For my system I’m thinning about 10% and adding Floetrol, and getting great results.

          Reply
  25. Chris M

    Is it possible to use the planer to thickness thin strips of wood accurately, such as thicknessing a 2 mm thick piece down to 1.7 mm?

    Reply
  26. David Parrish

    Can you increase the volume for the lady reading the questions? I can hear George pretty well, but the questions are hard to hear. Otherwise… I love it.

    Reply
  27. Gary Jackson

    What would you say is the minimum thickness for good edge gluing of hardwoods ? Is 1/4″ too think ?

    Reply
  28. Larry

    How do I know when to sharpen my blades, What kind of questions should I askl them before sending them my tools

    Reply
  29. Greg

    I just purchased a lathe. I’ve watched some of your videos where you’ve turned a bowl from a log which was cut in half. Can I turn a bowl from the end grain of a piece of log? Also, any issues using dried logs versus green logs?

    Reply
  30. dustin

    i have a question about bandsaw setup for drift. i have watched alex snodgras’ video called the bandsaw clinic and he says if you put the blade gullets on the crown of the wheel there is no drift what are your thought on this

    Reply
  31. michael

    sharpening of hand plane blades I have a curved blade what is the advantage of these
    regards Michael from Adelaide from Australia

    Reply
  32. Bob Hood

    Planning on painting a “natural finish” front door with red enamel. Should I prep first with some kind of sealer in case I decide in five years to go back to natural?

    Reply
  33. Ernie Johnson

    I have a Hammond Organ I want to take apart its a 1961 made out of Cherry wood whats the best way to disassemble it.

    Reply
  34. Roger

    Hey George. Any suggestions or tips on making a dead-on miter sled? I know there are many out there.

    Reply
    • George Vondriska
      George Vondriska

      Build the sled. Micro Jig makes great adjustable runners for table saw jigs. Add the fence AFTER the runners are on and you can start doing test cuts.

      Reply
  35. Daniel Cardo

    Anytime I see any woodworking professionals making cabinets or furniture online, I do see them consider wood movement or even mention it. When should wood movement be considered and by what size gap?

    Reply
  36. hairy

    Hairy from Lakefield mn . How do you get the correct measurement to drill the 35mm inset for the hinge from the bottom and top of the door for the for the compact blumotion hinges

    Reply
  37. jon

    I bought a beautiful 2 x 8 cherry board flat sawn with gorgeous cathedral grain,then found out it is unstable to build with.what can I use it for safely.Worried about cupping etc.Have a bandsaws could resaw it.

    Reply
  38. Mark Blacketer

    I’ve had some instances of table saw kickback and have been fortunate to avoid serious injury, so far. Without going into blood and gore, let’s just say I’m going to do something. I’m stuck with a wonderful table saw but it’s an older Delta and was made before riving knives became standard or commercially available. I need your opinion about the microjig splitter system versus the Shark or BORK. The last two have a blade guard, whereas the microjig does not. Since I’m wanting anti-kickback protection primarily and not blade protection or dust collection, what would you recommend?

    Reply
  39. Jeff

    New Gold WWGOA member here. Will be joining the live discussion Wednesday evening. I have a question on plywood and cabinet making. Sorry if this is too long for your live events. First some background.

    I’ve done some smaller vanity cabinets before but as part of a master bedroom suite remodel on our home, I have volunteered to do the closet cabinets for my wife. Based on her ideas on design, I am doing face frameless cabinets with full overlay doors. They are 83” x 33” x 23 1/4”. Each cabinet, in addition to the top, bottom, left and ride sides, has a fixed shelf in the middle thus creating an upper and lower compartment for hanging clothes. There will be 3 cabinets on 2 opposing sides of the closet. Each cabinet has a set of upper and lower doors for a total of 4 doors per cabinet. The doors will be 2 1/2” maple with in a sort of shaker style each with a pane of glass. I am using pocket hole joinery and am using prefinished birch plywood to help speed up the project.

    I found a local source for plywood at rather low prices. The plywood source is usually China or Russia and I assume that’s why the prices are so good. I have noticed that some of the plywood has some “bending” along the long edge. I am counting on my top/bottom and middle shelf to take out any “bending”.

    So far the construction has gone pretty well. I built one full cabinet, doors and all, to test out my processes and design. Things looked good, so I built 2 more cabinets, less the doors, and proceeded to install them on top of a 3 1/2” base which I leveled left to right and front to back. I had problems with the installation. Getting the cabinets to fit next to each other without gaps and so the cabinets were not racked proved pretty much impossible so we changed the design and placed a wood spacer recessed from the front, between each cabinet. This let the cabinets stand freely on the based without racking.

    Finally, here are my questions.

    1) What are your thoughts on using imported plywood to save some money?
    2) Do you have any recommendations for making and installing frameless cabinets that would help to avoid the problems I had during the installation.

    Thanks and looking forward to any ideas.

    Reply
    • Neil

      I’m making a kitchen with the same prefinised birch ply, and your right, it can be warped. I find the best way to deal with it is to screw all the cabinets together, which tends to staighten them out, at least so they are passable

      Reply
  40. Marshall Holmes

    • What is the difference between sanding sealer and regular unwaxed shellac? When would you use one and not the other?

    • In wood turning, what is the difference between a tennon and a spiggot? The words seem to be used interchangeably. True?

    Reply
  41. Robert James

    I’m in Australia, previously had every type of machine a workshop could possibly need and then some.
    I have had a hiatus for some 8 years and am now restarting.
    My question is: is it better to get something like a track/fence arrangement that will allow you to use a power saw, your router and jigsaw from above, or the traditional table for each device?
    I’m sure many beginners or people like me with limited funds would like to know this.
    If you could please email your response, as unfortunately, the time difference means I am probably going to miss your live show
    Regards Robert James

    Reply
    • Richard Johnson

      If I was starting over I would go with the complete set of Table, track and vacuum system made in Germany

      Reply
  42. Michael Astrosky

    I have problems with mortises. Are my chisels just dull? Any tips or tricks.

    Reply
  43. Larry Huckstep

    I have some questions about the CNC machines. Can you do 3D carvings or can you take picture of someone and carve them on a board at least embossed on wood or other material?

    Reply