Winter has taken hold in the north, making it a great time to be in the shop. But when isn’t it great to be in the shop? Enjoy our December LIVE, and have a great holiday season.
0:20 Welcome to WWGOA LIVE
0:35 The guitar George is making
3:15 Air drying vs kiln drying. Advantages/disadvantages
6:15 Top coating over Mylands Friction Polish
8:10 Perfect 45 degree cuts on the table saw
16:13 Forcing boards straight in a glue up
17:10 Router lift in a router table
21:18 Drywall screws vs wood screws
27:23 Christmas joke
28:40 Flattening boards on a planer
31:41 Using up wood scraps
33:50 Polyurethane and construction adhesive as outdoor glues
36:55 Router bit coming loose?
39:10 Jointing; getting a wedge shape
44:32 Dadoes on a shared wall
47:45 Stave construction
49:36 Tear out on routing
51:22 Lathe buying advice
53:45 Spar varnish, lacquer over shellac?
55:28 Two-part epoxy finish
56:45 Tear out on finger joints
57:40 Making secret compartments
58:56 Dust collection pipe sizes
1:00:02 George’s holiday greeting
WWGOA LIVE! December 2016
Winter has taken hold in the north, making it a great time to be in the shop. But when isn’t it great to be in the shop? Enjoy our December LIVE, and have a great holiday season.
I am looking to buy a planer and/or a jointer. Which one should I get first?
Watching the show on computer, I cannot hear the questions. Would it be possible to print the questions on screen as the lady is reading them? I enjoy the presentations.
Hi, Vernon. We would like to let you know that your suggestion has been forwarded to the proper department. Your comments are important to us and help with the development of our online video streaming community.
looking forward to reading your advice
When answering Dennis at 36:55 when you talked about router bits moving in the collet.
I have had brand new bits slip because I failed to clean off the coating of grease or whatever they used to prevent corrosion on the bit. Denatured alcohol works well for this.
Love the site I am a pro painter and owned a wood cabinet shop many years
Watching from Covina, CA
George, viewing from just south of London in the UK, on Friday. Thanks for answering my question on screws, in the show, good reply.
A couple of comments about your points and observations concerning waste wood, from the show. My rule is anything less than 12 inches, its thrown out. Wood between say 12 inches and 24 inches, i make into stirrers for paint, varnish and for spreading glue.
Man made wood, like MDF/Plywood should NOT be burn’t in a domestic fire as they give off harmful fumes when burn’t. I realise from the show you indicated you could burn some quantities of waste wood in the winter for heating.
I’m making a coffee table out of hard maple, what do you recommend for a stain, I’ve heard it can be a difficult wood to stain, I was thinking of just a sealer and Danish oil natural.
Hi Jim. If you want to tone the wood, I would suggest using transtint dyes which are available at woodworking specialty stores. These do a good job of darkening lights woods such as maple. I’ve had a lot of problems trying to apply dark colors to maple using pigment based stains, so if you are planning to go dark, I would avoid pigment based stains.
If you don’t intend to color it, then I’d suggest using a wipe-in poly, and my favorite in that category is Minwax. Easy application and consistently good results. Danish oil is beautiful as well, but offers only minimal protection. If you use this, I would wait a week or so after application, and cover it with a couple coats of poly for added moisture protection.
I am very interested in fabricating wood framed tools that can also be used to shape and work automotive sheet steel.
I need to find plans for mail boxes and old time ice boxes.
Hi Rodger. Here is a plan for an ice chest: https://www.wwgoa.com/plan/one-door-ice-box/
We do not have a plan for a traditional mail box, but here is a plan for a mail organizing that you might find interesting: https://www.wwgoa.com/video/wooden-key-and-mail-organizer-003109/
Newbury, Ohio- Good show, George. Thanks for your generous sharing of your knowledge.
Thank you for a very informative session. From Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Watching from Louisiana
Why the comment?
Brisbane , Australia
Humidity and Temp…..I have a 26 x 36, 3 car garage with 10 foot ceilings. Insulated and heated with a nat gas forced air furnace (for now). This summer the humidity was 75%, Now the humidity is 40-50%, I keep the garage at 47F overnight and while I’m at work, then warm it up to 61ishF. (beyond the obvious danger of this furnace, we are vigilant about dust control to ensure no fires!) Is the temp change adversely affecting the wood stock?
In the summer when I had a 15 stack of 3/4″ Birch Ply, as I was processing it, if I left the top sheet overnight it would be warped, the ply was from a brand new wrapped lift from Rona (the cheap imported stuff) I was able to correct that issue by processing the plywood as fast as possible and then stacking pieces with spacers. I’m thinking the high humidity then was the problem.
Now that it’s winter and drier my concern is the affects on the larger left over pieces of ply and my 4/4 Birch, 4/4 black walnut, 4/4 zepele, 8/4 Beach planks. Do you have some info or recommendations for me, or is it just the nature of home shop woodworking? Thanks, Trev.
Hi Trevor. The changes in humidity and temperature won’t necessarily have an adverse effect on your stock, but I would keep the stock stickered in storage just as an added insurance. I keep most of my hardwood up in an unheated attic storage room, and it will see temperature swings of 100 degrees in a typical year, and probably similar humidity swings to what you are describing. I keep it stickered and stacked, and pull it into the shop a week or so before I use it and I rarely have problems with my stock. I would suggest a similar approach for you.
The humidity changes are more likely to affect plywood. If you can store it in a stack with some weight on it, that will help your cause a lot compared to storing it leaning against the wall. But as you found, it will still be effected. I notice that my cheaper plywood is more effected by this than the more expensive cabinet grade stuff, and for the most part I just let it happen and deal with it. I don’t store much plywood, as I normally buy what I need for a large project, and keep the leftovers on hand for smaller projects.
SF Bay Area.
I’m listening from Lethbridge Alberta Canada.
This is my first time listening. I enjoyed it very much.
Watching from Kennewick, WA
Watching on my cell phone in Augusta, MI
I made a bar with a hickory slab top this past summer. After it was finished small bugs, likely termites, started appearing out of a hole. How could I prevent that with future projects with the remaining slabs?
Wow, that sounds like a bad set of house guests. You might want to make a call to an insect specialist to see if the wood can be treated to make sure there aren’t any remaining.
Watching from Los Alamos, NM. Thanks for the great info, I’ve got to make sure I’m available for the next live show!
watching from Hellertown, Pa on
Enjoy your site.
Depew, New Tork
Las Cruces, NM
Watching from Pahoa Hawaii
listening from Ontario, Canada
north of Boston MA
Hi George ,
Alistair here from Australia,I have been watching u a lot ,just became a member. Just a quick question im building a router table. i have to sanwich 2 sheets of form ply and the second sheet will be plywood whats the best way to do this both are half inch in thickness.
Sorry, but I’m not sure I understand the question. If you’re concerned about keeping the assembly flat, I’d lay it on a dead flat surface, like a table saw, and weight the glue up from the top. Be sure to cover your saw table with wax paper, or similar, to protect it from glue.
What is a safe food grade finish and still gives a shine?
I’ve used Behlens Salad Bowl finish. It’s food safe, and pretty glossy. https://www.amazon.com/Behlen-Salad-Bowl-Finish/dp/B00075XMNK
Watched from Oak St., Woodhaven Michigan– for real!!
Using cherry plywood with solid cherry edging. How do I get uniform staining. Plywood often darker.
You may have to pre treat the plywood so it doesn’t get as dark. Dewaxed shellac can be used for this. Experiment with putting a coat of shellac on the plywood, lightly sanding, and then staining everything. The shellac will prevent the stain from soaking in as much, and darkening, the plywood.
Madison, ohio. Enjoy the show.
watching from VT
From Indianapolis IN. Is Mylands compatible with food.
Viewing from Wilmington, NC
I am from Mumbai (India). Do you ship your products/CDs to India. I am very much interested in some of your products. Pls advice
particularly liked the 45 degree corner jig.
Hi George, watching from Essex, U.K.
watching from Bath, Illinois.
Listening from KalamazooI Michigan
I’m new to woodturning, when do you use a forstner bit vs. a brad point drill bit. Listening from home in Northern VT
Small forstner bits, under 1/2″, have a hard time clearing the chips. As a general rule I’ll use brad point bits up to 1/2″, and then switch to forstners.
Watching in IN
I’m watching from Grand Junction, CO.
Watching in San Pedro, CA
Watching from Geelong, Victoria, Australia !!
I live in Meridian Idaho (near Boise).
West Des Moines, IA
Bridgewater, Nova Scotia Canada
Watching from Lancaster, Ohio.
From Joplin, Missouri’s
Stony Point, North Carolina.
I’m in Houston, TX!
when changing a band saw blade ,should it be in the middle of the wheel or as some say the teeth of the blade should be in the middle of the wheel , just your thoughts , love the show and thanks for sharing the knowledge
On narrow blades I put the teeth of the blade on the center of the tire. On wider blade I center the blade on the crown of the tire. Never let any part of the blade project off the back of the wheel.
Just finished buildinging a boat book shelf and finished with shellac but would like to know if I should put spar varnish or Polyurethane or lacquer as a top coat.
Answered at 53:45
I make finger joints on my boxes. What method do you prefer to stop tear out?
Answered at 56:45
I glue up what could be viewed as a mini cutting board, then I stack then and glue the stacks until I have a 3.5 by 3.5 block, 5 to 7 inches long. I then cut on band saw to 1/2 inch thick, sand and and give away as end grain coasters.
Scrap wood and pieces are put on the burn pile
Thank you George and crew for the live videos and all the great information. Wood worker for 4 years and still learning new technique’s everyday.Merry Christmas and a happy safe new year.
Thanks for watching. Merry Christmas to you, too.
Mistakes are called “designer fire wood”
Am considering a sliding table saw. If it will take a dado set would their be any disatvantage other than cost?
Sliding table saws are great. They can have a large footprint. If you’ve got the space, I don’t see any disadvantages.
George, I have an extension on my table saw for my router. I was cutting a hand-hold groove on the underside of a cutting board. The cove bit worked just fine on three sides. However, on the fourth side as I slid the cutting board along I had a tear-out occur. I will have to cut in a dutchman to replace the tearout. What did I do wrong and how can I avoid this in the future.
Thank you for your answer to my question. I make end-grain cutting boards as designed by a Russian woodworker. His website is MTM Wood. I forgot to state that I used a frame around the perimeter of the cutting board. The frame is made of Jatoba. This is where I had the tear out. I only screwed the frame onto the board and I was going to epoxy it after I had the hand holds routed into it. It was the long grain piece where the tear out occurred. I am located in Cutler Bay, Florida. I am about 25 miles south of Miami. Not a good place to do woodwork in the summer. Brutal!!!!
Jatoba is a beautiful wood, but can chip pretty easily. Sounds like a good backer board for the cuts might be the answer.
Answered at 49:36
I recently purchased a butterfly template for making those cool ties to help hold splits and checks together in large live edge tabletops. Mostly because I love the look of a perfectly fitted “patch”. Can you, or do you, have a video demo for actually using one of these templates properly for cutting the butterfly hole AND the butterfly patch? Or am I on my own to figure it out?
You might find some tips here https://www.wwgoa.com/article/custom-cut-butterfly-joints/
question about which is the best of larger jaws for a nova four jaw chuck.
The Cole jaws are great for finishing bowl bottoms.
It’s my birthday… My question is what kinds of finish can be covered and repaired with french polish and how do you tell them apart. Thanks!
When installing euro hinges on doors. How do I line up the inside piece on the cabinet.
The set back from the front of the cabinet is usually 32 mm to the center of the anchor holes. If you can put the hinges in the door, put on the mounting brackets, and then hold the door in place, you can mark out the location of the mounting brackets directly from the screw holes in the mounting brackets.
I must build a hexagonal spire for a project. The spire is about 12 inches high, 2 inches on each side at the bottom and 1/2 inch on each side at the top. This will require a compound angle cut but I have not been able to set it up properly on the table saw. Any suggestions?
Answered at 47:45. Check out the Micro Jig taper jig http://www.microjig.com/products/microdial/
Is it a good idea to run Dadoes on opposing sides of a vertical divider such as in a wide bookcase? Seems to me it would weaken the structure.
I do it all the time on the center panel making the opposing dados 1/4″ deep leaving 1/4″ of material between. Once glued up and set these seem to be strong points in the build rather than weak. Never had one fail.
Answered at 44:32
I am very much interested
I did a 2 part epoxy pour on a serving tray and not happy with the result. It has cured now for 72 hrs so can I do an addition pour over the top?
New Paltz NY
Answered at 55:28
I often get wedging in wood taken over my jointer. It’s slight but present. I try to use sharp knives and that seems to help. I’ve made the infeed and outfield tables as co-planar as I can. Any suggestions/reasons for the problem? Thanks. I enjoy your videos.
Answered at 39:10
Looking foward to the c-call.
Greg Upstate IN
What would be a good set of high quality chisles? My Stanleys will not get the job done.
I have vintage chisels that were hand-me-downs that cut as well as my absurdly expensive Lie-Neilsen chisels. The key is proper sharpening. If yours have been hack on a bit, it would be a good idea to take them to a saw sharpening pro and have a perfect and true base grind restored so you can then maintain a good hone going forward. George has a nice video on sharpening.
I had some butcher-block countertop left over from a rental property I remodeled. So
I cut it up too make 4 end grain cutting boards out of it. The first one I did I realized I didn’t do enough sanding on it and could see some of the striping from the router bit l’ve already applied mineral oil to it is there anything I can do or just live with it? The last one I did has a void in it from a knot after routing I dropped a small little gym stone into the void and then was going to fill it with epoxy do you have any suggestions?
If you’ve got machining marks, under the finish, there’s really no choice but to sand the finish off and sand the marks out. I like the idea of insert a gem stone into the void. Could be a very cool personalization of the cutting board.
Glad to be here from California
Thanks for taking time each month to host this helpful event!
Here’s my question: What do you do with all the left-over small pieces of scrap after making the cuts you need for the project? I keep them thinking I might need them for some other project, but it just keeps piling up.
Answered at 31:41
For an outdoor project that will be exposed to the elements (rain, snow), does polyurethane glue or construction adhesive have any advantage over waterproof PVA glue like Titebond III?
Answered at 33:50
What am I doing wrong when my router bit shaves a small amount from the inside of the bushing
Answered at 36:55
When tightening a router bit in a collet also be sure the shank of the router bit is not bottomed out completely. You should always raise the bit slightly before tightening. If you don’t do this the drawing down action of the collet and nut will prevent the bit from completely tightening in the router and it could come out.
Looking forward to another good presentation
can you discuss the advantages/disadvantages of air Dried vs Kiln dried wood
Answered at 3:15
I used your 4 part bowl turning video and Mylands friction Polish. Can I topcoat with boiled linseed oil then a coat of Zinsser Seal coat thinned 1: 1 with denatured alcohol or is there anything else I could use as a topcoat.
I’m currently in planning stages of a custom headboard. My plan is to have two (2) columns 16 x 16 x 60 apart, one each side. With shelves 16” O/C With a 46” span between columns. Atop the columns will be a (mantel like piece) 4.5 x 20. X 90” Under this mantel will be a case 3.750 x 12 x 45.875 with an open top. Looking for stainable material, trying to stay from .781 finished plywood.
Inside this case I will have two (2) actuator(s) (one each end) with a magnetic release. This under-case will hold a hunting rifle & two hand pistols, inside there’s foam to hold fire arms in place.
This under case will drop down 30’ hinged @ the back rail of 3.750 x 45.875 bottom W/ a piano hinge. LQQKING for information how to mount this back rail to the mantel with-out wood screws. Thinking polyurethane adhesive (Gorllia glue) Would this be strong enough to hold the weight?
Oh yeah, I’m north-east of Denver, Co.
I don’t use polyurethane glue too much, but use yellow glue all the time. When the joinery is sound, a glue joint can be stronger than the surrounding wood. If you can create a good joint, yellow glue should do a suitable job of holding the pieces together.
Stoked .. I’m using 6/4 Maple boards with 1 straight edge. The boards are roughly 6 feet long and 6 inches wide. I used a straight on three of the 6 boards which appear to perfectly straight only one board as a bowed side. My questions is this, I don’t think my joiner will handle the width of these boards. Should I just skip straight to my thickness planer? and just get them down to 4/4? This is the first time I’m using rough furniture grade lumber. Previously I used what they call 3/4 inch S4 furniture grade hobby boards and sheet goods. What’s your advise. Thanks Phil
Answered at 28:40
Question: How to get perfect 45 degree cuts on a table saw – I’ve just multiple jigs, including a 45 degree drafting triangle and they always seem to come out just a little bit off – requiring recutting
Answered at 8:15
My question is, I’ve viewed the video about dumping dry wall screws for woodworking, and only using wood screws that have a shank, does this apply for any wood material such as plywood / MDF etc. Steel and copper colour screws also come with screw threads all the way up the body, like a dry wall screw, where should they be used? Finally, when attaching 2 pieces of wood or plywood, do you also need to use glue or will just screwing be sufficient even if you do not intend to take them apart again? Thanks Chris.
Answered at 21:18
I am looking forward to your presentation>
I used your 4 part bowl turning video along with Mylands friction Polish. After the Polish dries would it be ok to top coat with a 50/50
Blend of Zinsser Seal coat and denatured alcohol to increase the luster or another product. Thanks
Answered at 6:42
I have a question. After waiting about 5 years, I finally purchased a router and router table and a router lift. I thought the purpose of the lift was to raise the Colette above the table for easy bit change. I bought the setup from Kreg. The lift does not raise the bit high enough to be above the table. When I called Kreg about this, they suggested I use offset wrenches to change the bit. Is this the only solution? Am I wrong in thinking that the collette should rise above the table? Did I choose the wrong company when I bought the lift? Does any lift bring the parts high enough that I do not need an offset wrench?
I’m using a jessem router lift on the Kreg table and the collet raises completely above the table. George`s tip is sound too, the router motor may not be set high in the lift.
Answered at 17:10
Does a card scraper give the same finish as a plane? If so any tips on buying and using a card scraper?
Answered at 8:15
Oops, sorry, answered at 11:22
How do i ask questions on here
Like you just did! Submit your question in the same comment box you used to ask that question and we’ll do our best to answer as many as we can during the live broadcast!
I am very interested.
i have 2 question
1: would you every recommend doing “skip plane”
2: when doing face to face glue up, can you force a board to be straight by putting 2 straight pieces in front and back of the damage board
Answered at 16:13