This WWGOA GOLD LIVE event is all about setting up your miter saw for accurate cuts. George Vondriska demonstrates the best way to prepare, make, and maintain consistently accurate with your miter saw (we know how important a perfect 90 degree angle can be).
THIS EVENT IS ONLY AVAILABLE FOR WWGOA GOLD AND PLATINUM MEMBERS
Log in now to view the event or become a GOLD Member today by clicking here and choosing the GOLD membership option!
I like WWGOA.
Thank you George very useful info
Derick (Western Australia)
Thanks for watching Derick
Great job George! Thanks for taking the time to show me how to get my new miter saw set up accurately.
Hope it helps you.
Simple approach that I can replicate with my saw, that is what I love about George’s methods. Makes perfect sense once I see him do it.
Glad you like it. Thanks.
Any advice about making a solid wood buffet. Using no plywood.
I’d google it and see if you can find a plan you like. Or check out Pinterest or similar places to find a look you like that you can duplicate.
if you recommend always having material on both sides of the cut, how do you “sneak up” on the cut like I’ve seen you do wit so many set up’s? stops and test cuts is the only thing that comes to mind.
Best case scenario is material on both sides. However, sometimes you gotta to a slight trim, which will mean cutting on only one side. I do it often to tweak length, but would prefer to cut on both sides when I can.
When you make adjustments to the saw, how do you know which way to adjust? Do you just use trial and error until you figure out which way is closing the gaps in your test pieces?
Pay attention to where the gap is; close to the reference edge or away from the reference edge, and that will tell you what direction to make the correction in.
What’s the theory / reason behind pulling the saw out and then pushing back during the cut instead of pulling the saw through the cut? Do you do that just for setting up the saw or do you do that with all your projects?
You push so the saw won’t climb as it’s cutting. I do that on every cut. Always best to work against the direction of rotation of the cutter, no matter what tool you’re using.
No question yet just trying to get logged on the live stream.
Can repeated cuts, cause the blade to heat to such a degree, that it becomes warped and not cutting accurately.
Only if you’re using the wrong blade.
John, from Spirit Lake, ID.
I recently saw a radial arm saw in a thrift store. What do you think of using a radial arm saw instead of a miter saw?
I’d prefer a sliding miter saw over a radial arm saw any day. Sliding miter saws are much safer.
Looking forward to the webinar
hello from VT
I am ready to learn
Glad to be here
looking to learn something.
Looking forward to it
I own a festool kapex
Made it home just in time. Thanks George
My first online class…hopefully I’m in the right place.
Hi George! I am late in discovering woodworking! I did not take it in high school, and have completed a beginner woodworking class in college recently. What advice do you have for the basics that are needed to have a home workshop? I am wanting to make some simple projects… Thanks!
The best bet is to find a project you’d like to make, and then figure out what tools you need and what skills you need to make it. If it’s something you want, you’ll be motivated to move forward with it. That’s a great way to learn.
How to make accurate 45° cuts consistently the length of the cut on sliding Kapex.
looking forward to this class
What do you know about Carbide 3D Shaparero
Good evening from Boston, MA
Hello from the side of the Emerald Mountain in Rural Colombia
I have a Vega Pro 30 fence system, with a woodpecker gauge, I can get the fence parallel within.003, the problem is once I clamp down the fence on both sides of the out feed side of the fence at .000 the fence shifts to .003. What the best solution for getting this fence perfectly parallel to the miter gauge slot? Thanks, George!
Already Gold and would love to see.
Hello from Spirit Lake, ID
I use my miter saw especially for doing projects that require several pieces of the same length. I have a piece of paper that attaches to the auxiliary fence. It has all the lengths, number to cut, and name of piece. It really shortens up the length of time it takes me to set up the job.
I have 23 of your videos. Sometimes you are in a shop with a wooden floor and other times it is a tile floor. Which do you prefer. I’ve been thinking of putting in a false floor on 2×4’s that will allow me to run electrical wires and have outlets in strategic places around my shop.
Either floor is fine. Plywood is slightly easier on the legs. Concrete/tile cleans up easier.
Can’t wait to see this.
Interested in viewing this
Looking forward to learn something new
Looking forward to the class.
Will it be saved for future viewing?
I notice that my miter saw table sits just a little bit back (maybe less than 1 degree) from the front when it is fastened to my miter saw stand. Should I be concerned about this?
Do you have any advice on setting up ‘reliable and repeatable’ angle cuts on mitre saws?
Just how accurate or inaccurate are the graduations and locking points on mitre saws?
And do you have any tips on setting up a saw on a homemade bench? How to achieve squareness, rigidity and parallelism to the mitre saws fence.
Thanks Steve – from South Australia
Looking forward to the event
See you then.
Thanks for letting me know when the live event is on
I’ve had my Festool Kapex for over 3 years and I never set it up properly. Hopefully I will see how it is done. Cuts have always been adequate for the things I’ve done, but now I want to start making some furniture and it might be a good thing to get the cuts right on.
Looking forward to this class Will be my first with WWGA.
Looking forward to this one!
Looking forward to it.
Looking forward to it.
Looking forward to this class, I hope to learn a lot.
Looking forward to this class.