This WWGOA GOLD LIVE event is all about the router table, cope and stile joints. George Vondriska used a two-piece rail and stile set and shop-made coping sled, while sharing lots of door making secrets along the way, to help you produce perfect cope and stile joints for your next door project.
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Have you ever built a project that incorporated mitered corners, such as a picture frame, and wondered how to strengthen and beautify the mitered joints? The answer lies in adding a spline, which introduces a mechanical reinforcement to the joint, and at the same time adds an element of beauty, particularly when contrasting woods are
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Often a furniture project calls for cutting a notch out of a panel to wrap around another item for a custom fitted appearance. Case in point: a tabletop that is notched around the legs to showcase the top of the legs for a point of interest. It can be difficult to establish these short cut
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Have you ever cut a mitered frame and ended up with a piece that was just a tiny bit too short, leaving a gap in your frame? If you haven’t, and all your mitered frames have just fit perfectly right out of the gate, congratulations because you might just be the only one! For the
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would like to join in
Is this the right place for the router table class?
Yes, but there appears to be a problem. 🙁
There was a problem. George should be here shortly.
Do they make set up blocks for this type of operation?
Has something happened? It’s almost 6:05 PT.
Just a few technical difficulties but we’ll be with you in no time! – SRK
Thank you.
Has the video started yet? I’m not getting anything.
I connected, watched the countdown timer to 8:00 p.m. and only see a message on the screen “Waiting for WoodWorkers Guild of America” ???????????????
Sorry. We had some audio issues that caused a late start.
Where in Wisconsin are you?
Hammond. http://www.vondriskawoodworks.com/about.html
How much horsepower do you need in your router for this type of work?
A 1.5, 10 amp, machine will do the work.
In the past, you’ve always been using a Jessem router lift. It appears you now have a new table with a Woodpecker router lift. Is there a reason for the new table and lift?
A 1.5 HP, 10 amp, router will do the work
I’ve still got a JessEm table and lift, but am working with the Woodpeckers table as a different brand for my students to see. I’m also working on a router table class, in which students will build a cabinet, that we’ll use the Woodpeckers top and fence for.
Could you put a feather board in the miter slot to push it through?
Watching From Tulsa! There’s all kinds of door cutting bit styles available. Generally speaking is it usually necessary to be using two router bits?
I like two piece sets over reversible bits (single piece set)
Can you use these router bits and these techniques on thicker stock, say for an interior bedroom door?
Go Badgers
Nope, it wouldn’t work. The bits I used here work in material up to 7/8″ thick or so. For interior or exterior doors you need a set like this http://amzn.to/2zrDR79
Your push block works great for short pieces, but won’t work well for pieces which extend beyond the table. ???
It works fine. Just remember to keep the pressure horizontal, not vertical.
Are there different size router sets? For instance, thinner for framing thin pictures.
Yep, but sets are thickness specific. When you buy the bits make sure they’re correct for the thickness of material you’ll be working with.
This set, for example, will work in material as thin as 7/16″ http://amzn.to/2zEmSPT
RE: Door dimensions – the height of the door would seem to be easy on the stiles, but how do you figure the length of the rails for the width?
The formula for rails is: Width of door – width of two stiles + length of two tongues
Thanks!
Watching in Emily, MN
Very good presentation.
Thanks. And thanks for tuning in