Down and Dirty Router Table

down-dirty-router-table Sometimes, like when I’m making loads of label holders, it’s more convenient to have a second router table than to keep swapping router bits. Here’s a super simple setup that has worked well for me. In fact, the one you see here is my first router table. I used it for years prior to making a fancy one with a router lift and cabinet.

down-dirty-router-table-1 As you see, it’s simply a 3/4″ x 21″ x 31″ piece of particleboard covered with plastic laminate. A straight board, clamped to the table, is used as a fence. A 1/2″ deep recess is routed underneath for mounting the router base. The bottom of the recess is covered with laminate as well, to make it stiff. The underside of the particle board is sealed with varnish to keep it stable. This setup should work with virtually any router. You can make it in no time and it’s easy to store. It doesn’t have all the whistles and bells of a commercial table, but it’s functional.

down-dirty-router-table-2

Photo 2. If they’re long enough you can use the same screws that are used to attach the sub base to the router to hang the router on the table. Make sure the screws have plenty of bit into the base. Replace them if necessary. The holes are counterbored so the screws are just slightly lower than flush.

Photos by Author

Discussion
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5 Responses to “Down and Dirty Router Table”
    • WWGOA Team

      The best way to do this is to mount the router to the base first, then mount a bit and carefully plunge it into the router base. What way your hole is not only perfectly round but also exactly centered.

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    • Customer Service

      Because this is a shop project and it is on the underside, I would simply trace the router base onto the surface and free-hand rout with a straight bit, starting with a shallow cut, and progressing gradually with advances of 1/8″ or so until you have reached the full 1/2″ depth. If you go slowly you can rout up to the line pretty effectively.

      Reply