Q: I’m building a jewelry box for my girlfriend for Christmas. I’m looking to flock the inside the drawers, and the inside top half, where necklaces will hang. I’m curious how much setup time I have for the adhesive, if I can spread the adhesive and lay the flocking all at once or if I should do it in sections?
A: The open time will vary depending on the product that you use, as well as the ambient humidity and temperature in your shop. That said, I believe that you should be able to make it in one pass, and I would be uneasy about trying to do it in two phases. You might want to do a simple test on some scrap, and spread some adhesive out and see how long it remains tacky.
Here’s a video on this topic:
You might also be interested in:
Jewelry Box Plans
Glue Tips: Using Denatured Alcohol for a Strong Bond
Methods for Evenly Spreading Glue
Using Contact Adhesive
How to Make a Bandsaw Box
Turning a Small Lidded Box
Cool Upcycled Wood Boxes Using Salvaged Wood
Hi, I’m building a Two-step stair for the front door since the porch drops to low from the front door to the house. being that this will be outside and will get wet and go threw weather conditions with high humidity is there a specific type of wood to use for outdoor applications?
Antonio,
I would recommend going to a lumber yard and seeing what options you have locally. Around here, cedar, white oak, Ipe, thermally modified ash and pressure treated pine would be the main choices.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
I’m building a square 8″x8″x16′ outdoor 2 front column post that can be painted, but not sure of what type of wood that i can use for this project with a exposure of high humidity, rain and cold weather.
Hi Charles,
Below is what our expert had to say:
I would recommend cedar for this project. If you don’t have cedar in your area, I’d suggest asking for a recommendation at a local lumber yard.
Paul
Sincerely,
Kate
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
I am bending some 1/4 inch white oak slats for the back of a bench , my question is how long should the slats stay held in the desired shape?
If you are referring to steam bending, the guideline for that is to leave the piece clamped in your form for at least one hour. I’d probably extend that to a couple hours if you can, just to be safe.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
Am making some guitar holders that are place on the wall. Been trying to come with a way to attach it to the wall without showing the screws into the wall. “Invisible connection “. Any ideas?
A couple thoughts:
– A mini french cleat design
– A floating shelf bracket such as this: https://amzn.to/2WGgqSA
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
I have a small shop and would like to add either a jointer or a surface planer. I currently have a table saw, band saw, router, miter saw, and scroll saw. If it won’t fit on a workbench, it would need to have a moveable stand. Which would would you suggest?
This is a topic that is frequently debated among woodworkers. It really depends on what type of materials you work with and what projects you build. If you buy lumber that is S4S, and you do not need to plane it to make it thinner for your projects, then you are probably better off going with a planer first. If you buy rough cut lumber, and/or you often need to reduce the thickness of your stock, then a planer is probably a better first choice.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
I’m building a Adirondack chair out of pine that has some knots in it. I was thinking of using a pre-stain but what top coat do you recommend? Varnish, polyurethane etc.? Chair will be outside mostly under an over hang in Florida.
I recommend a clear penetrating deck sealer for outdoor projects. That is much more forgiving than topcoats such as varnish or poly when it comes to maintenance. If the overhang will provide enough protection that you are not worried about maintenance, then a spar varnish product such as this would work fine: https://amzn.to/2A2tiXf.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
i own a ryobi scrollsaw, and it is driving me crazy sc165sv. I have asked around a100 places with no results.Can you help. this saw is suppose to take both pinned and flat blades. I cant get the flat blades to hold how do I put them in
Hello Jim,
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Michael
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
I have a 560 Sq ft shop and a 650cfm vacuum. How much vacuum line at 4 Inch dia can I us before I start loosing vacuum? note: I use only one machine at a time.
You will experience some CFM drop with each foot of ducting. With a 650 CFM dust collector, you should configure no more than 10′ of flex hose. At the end of 10′ you will likely be somewhere in the range of 300 CFM.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
Hi, I have been sanding various woods for canes and I notice that these little clear points appears with a red tint. Could it be where the beginning of little branches that turn into nodules with pinkish clear hue??
Hello Robin,
Thank you for the question, here is the reply:
Hi, I have been sanding various woods for canes and I notice that these little clear points appears with a red tint. Could it be where the beginning of little branches that turn into nodules with pinkish clear hue??
https://www.wwgoa.com/article/ask-wwgoa-how-mu…reading-adhesive/
If you are interested in becoming a member to Woodworkers Guild of America, please click on the special offer below:
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If you have any further questions, please chat, email, or contact Customer Service at 1-855-253-0822.
Sincerely,
Joan
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
Looking to get a high quality 20” power planer HH. Looking for advice…Powermatic, Jet, Laguna all made in Taiwan…is there any quality companies in USA or Europe? What brand do you recommend?
Hello Headen,
Thank you for the question, here is the experts reply:
There are two American made planers that I’m aware of. Northfield and Woodmaster. Northfield is a high quality, very expensive option. Woodmaster costs a bit more than the group that you are looking at, but it also provides drum sander and molding capabilities. I have a Woodmaster 18″ and I like it a lot. I mostly use it as a planer, but occasionally cut molding with it, and every once in a great while I use it as a drum sander for an end grain cutting board. I’m not aware of European-made planers.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
I Hope I’m in the wright spot. Excuse my English i’m french speaking and trying my best. I just purchased a book from
American Woodworker (How to Make Workbenches & Shop Storage Solutions 2011 i’m interested in building the projec on page 127 by George Vondriska and dave Munkittrick any Possibility of acquiring the material list. Thank you much. Ray M
Hello Raymond,
Thank you for contacting us. I see you are a Gold member and you receive discounts on purchases in the Shop. Please make sure you are logged into your membership before going into the Shop. Pick your item and Add to Cart. View Cart and then proceed to checkout to make a payment.
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Sincerely,
Joan
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
I need to put some timber cornice on a sloping ceiling and would like to know how to cut the corners at the correct angle. Is there a tool or technique to use, seems like a common problem that should have a simple solution?
While I am asking, I can’t find anywhere to put this question other than on an existing blog, is there somewhere on your website to start a new question?
Hi Martin,
here is the response from the expert:
Hello and thanks for your question. We don’t have a calculator for that, but if you search about the internet you might find a calculator available to solve your equation.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
What is the best wood to use for food grade projects like turning bowls and honey dippers or wooden spoons?
Hi Mike,
Here is the experts response:
Closed-grain non-toxic hardwoods such as maple, cherry, or birch are among my favorites.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
Looking for recommendations for small router bits for cutting out letters and numbers on my router table. Bought one at Lowes but it broke after using it not even 5 minutes.
Hi, I’m new to work working and making a simple MCM desk for my son in law. I have glued up the maple boards for the top to measure 4’x 25” x1”. I ordered simple MCM tapered round legs for it. He does not want it to have an apron because he wants the knee clearance. Any suggestions on how I can stabilize the top to keep it form warping? I know aprons helps with this. Could I attach some kind of small slat on the underside running the depth of the top?
Hey Charlie,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
You could attach a couple batons on the bottom near the ends. 1″ thick, attach with glue in the middle, and elongated screw holes on the ends to allow for movement.
Paul
Wood Workers Guild of America Expert
Hello,
I’ve been asked to build faux wooden beams (3 sided) and am looking for advise. Need to span a 10 foot, open vaulted ceiling -mounted only on each end. Thinking rough cut/distressed poplar or oak planed down to 1/2”. Any experience in doing this or suggestions on how to avoid sagging or twisting??
Hello David,
Thank you for contacting us.
I don’t have any experience with this type of carpentry, so I’m afraid that I don’t have any guidance for you in terms of how to avoid sagging.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-253-0822, or chat with us on our site.
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Sincerely,
Lindsay
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
Hi, I purchased some red oak logs a few years back. Had them sawed to 2.5 inch thick. They are 11 inches wide. I am going to use a few of them for the work bench top I am beginning to make. After planning them I realized how beautiful the wood is. I was going to cut them in two and a half to three inch wide strips and glue them together to the show the side grain. I also thought this would make the top more stable less prone to warping. Now I am thinking to just glue the finished boards after planing and jointing side by side showing the top grain. What would be the best way to do this?
Thanks
Tom
Hey Thomas,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
As long as the wood is fully dried before you begin, you’ll be fine either way. Quarter sawn wood will expand and contract less than flat sawn wood, but it should remain flat either way.
Also, there really isn’t such a thing as ‘side grain’. If you flat saw a log, you’ll end up with some quarter sawn boards, some rift sawn, and some plain sawn boards. The side grain of a quarter sawn board is plain sawn, and vise versa. So, if you want quarter sawn wood, you’ll have to pay attention to the growth rings and cut the boards accordingly.
Paul
Wood Workers Guild of America Expert
Thanks Paul,
I can’t decide which way to go. It will sure be easier if I don’t have to cut and laminate all those boards. As far as side grain goes I was just trying to say side of the board. Thanks much for your reply
Tom
I am looking to build a traditional woodworking bench and possibly incorporate some features of the newer models sold today. Top will be two – three inches thick. I am just a home shop woodworker is a three inch thick top bench necessary? Do you know of a plan that might
match what I plan to do. I don’t absolutely have to have a plan but I figure it will give me some ideas and possibly let me avoid mistakes in the way I build the bench.
Thanks,
Tom
If you search for ‘workbench’ on WWGOA.com, you will find several different plans. This one might best serve as a starting point, based on your description:
https://www.wwgoa.com/product/master-cabinetmakers-bench-plan/
2″ would be plenty thick for a typical woodworking bench.
Paul
I have recently purchased a house which has a 2-car garage sized outbuilding, which I’m going to use for my workshop. In the past, I’ve only ever had small spaces to work in (10×12, 10×15, etc.). The space I have now is obviously much bigger, but I still want to make the most of it so that it “flows” well (lumber storage next to jointer, jointer next to planer, etc.). In my smaller shops, I’ve always had to have my workbench against a wall so that I was able to move around; this, in turn, made me have to rotate the work piece on the bench to be able to access all 4 sides, and I’ve gotten used to working like that. With this larger space, however, I can position my workbench so that I can walk around it, which would mean I wouldn’t have to rotate the piece – saving time and effort.
My question is this: What is your preferred space for your workbench – against a wall or in the center of the floor? Or is it a matter of personal preference balanced against space availability?
Hello Scott,
Thank you for contacting us.
I prefer to have my large assembly table, which I use as one of my workbenches as well, in the center of the shop. That gives me access from all sides of the table, and positions it just a couple steps from any stationary tool in the shop.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-253-0822, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Sarah
Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership
Would like to build a Mitre saw work bench..can’t seem to find anything about this. ..need help..thanks
Hello Albro,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
Here is a plan that we have on that topic: http://www.wwgoa.com/product/compact-miter-saw-stand-plan/
Sincerely,
Paul
Wood Workers Guild of America Expert
I do woodturning as a hobby and I have what I consider a very large burl from a tree that I cut down in my own yard a year ago due to location issues. Asking for help with the best way to proceed. Thanks in advance. I have pictures but being new I’m not sure how/where to upload.
I am a Professional Piano Technician doing research and experiments to come up with a solution to a problem that plagues moving parts in Steinway pianos from the early 1900’s. Through research I found that parts had been boiled in paraffin wax to protect against moisture and warping. Unfortunately wool bushings and metal pins holding things together react , develop verdigris like condition and seize up. I believe the paraffin wax is at the core of the problem. I m trying to find a way to detect paraffin wax in the parts and a way to force it out. Attempts with some chemicals have been made but are dangerous and the problem re-appears. I need a non-destructive way to get all of the paraffin out- basically I need to “unboil”
Hello. This is a very interesting challenge. Unfortunately I don’t have experience with anything along these lines, so I can’t offer you any guidance. Best of luck.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
Do you have any blueprints and material list for sheds?
Hello Kenneth,
No, we do not have plans for construction projects such as sheds. Menards has a great collection of these: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/books-building-plans/shed-plans/c-9668.htm
Sincerely,
Sarah
Wood Workers Guild of America Video Membership
Learning to make bowls with a router versus my lathe to expand the size and design. The blanks are made laminating wood to create the size needed for the pattern being used. Wondering if it is possible to color a wood green to be used as part of a blank. Example might be a Christmas Tree pattern. Red, brown, white are all possible or close enough with natural wood color. Green is my challenge? Coloring the layer of wood in the lamination after gluing up the blank does not seem workable due to bleeding between layers. Thoughts?
Hello Howard. It will be hard to get enough stain penetration into the wood to make it so that you would have a deep green color consistently throughout the layer. And you’re right; the bleeding issue will make it challenging to add stain after the fact. Normally, when I want to introduce color variation into a blank, I will do so by gluing up different wood species. If I use stain or dye to do this, I do it after the turning is complete. and as I’m turning I create a ridge into the piece to define a clean break for the stain. It’s touchy, and therefore I don’t do this very often, but if you are careful with the detail when you are turning, it is possible to do this effectively.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America