Material Choices. Any shop accumulates scrap materials. My wife accuses me of actually buying scraps – they can get out of hand. This project is a great way to use up scraps. Here are the approximate sizes you’ll need:
- 2 sides 3/4″ x 14″ x 2″, one side beveled at 15-degrees along its length
- 1 – center section 3/4″ x 14 x 1-1/2″
- 1 slide stop in a contrasting wood – this piece has the same profile as the center section.
- 1 bottom board – 3/4″ x 14″ x 4″
- 6 pegs
- Drilling Template- available at woodworking stores or on-line Source: Miesel Woodworking
- 1/8″ drill bit
- 4 C-clamps
- Finish such as lacquer or polyurethane
The last cut should leave a wide edge about 1-1/4″ wide. See tech art below for profiles:
Place the 4 hold-down C-clamps in position on the dry assembly of 3 parts – the red clamps in our photo. This holds the 2 sides stationary. Use the stationary center section – the longer of the 2 pieces – as an alignment guide. Once things are fitted, slide the stationary accent piece out and apply glue to the 2 surfaces that will contact the sides. We don’t want any squeeze-out at the point where the stop-block attaches – it will cause an unsightly gap when you try to position the stop block.
Next, glue in the stop block – use glue on 3 surfaces – then clamp it as illustrated in this photo.
Truing the Board and Final Cut to Size. Once this is cured, re-insert the sliding door and flatten everything. You can use your jointer, taking very thin cuts, a drum sander, or just sandpaper adhered to a dead-flat surface such as your bench top or table-saw top.
Now is the time I cut the board to length. Match it to your drilling template and true up both ends in the process. Be sure your sliding door is well seated when you true that end!
Drilling the Holes. Drill, baby, Drill. Using 2 clamps, hold the template to the board. Don’t try this with one clamp – the template and board will invariably swivel out of alignment. I drill 2 holes a few inches apart and seat cribbage pegs through the template into the holes to help keep the template and board in alignment.
Prepare the Base. Cut it to 1/2″ to 3/4″ wider and 1/2″ to 3/4″ longer than the board. That gives me a 1/4″ to 3/8″ overlap on each side and end.
Next, round over the top edges of the base and finish sand.
With the slider door in place, round-over the edges of the top on your router. Finally, drill a dowel hole in the slider for the stop peg – this keeps the door from opening when you don’t wish it. I drill the hole undersize by 1/64th and sand the peg a little until it fits snugly.
Finish with a durable product such as lacquer, polyurethane or other varnish.
Photos By Author