I recently bought a Porter Cable 4216 doveail jig. Not being a woodworking professionl, I have a little (read big) problem understanding the logic for marking the sides and fronts of the box I'm making. So I wonder if it would be possible for you to make a DVD for building, say, a jewelry box, and explaining why the sides and fronts are marked the way they are shown in most manuals. And why the tops of these components might not be in plane and how to correct the problem? I also have a Katie jig with the adustable fingers that must be mounted square to the locating surface which I have done, yet the tops are still not in plane. These are the kind of things I would like to see covered....It would be nice to be able to go to a seminar or even a series of classes on this, but in the area I live there is nothing like this available. Thanks ....Jackson
Using a Dovetail Jig(4 posts)
There is a two-part story on dovetails you can have a look at.
You can also check out this video article
George, I should have been more specific on the type of dovetails I'm trying to cut. The template that is in question is the 4213 which is used for through dovetails. I did download the 18 minute video but it is for half-blind dovetails. That would be fine if I was making drawers, but for the jewelry box I prefer thru dovetails. Any suggestiions? I have 41 of your dvd's, and there isn't one that really explains the reasons for numbering the corners of the box or drawer or why certain sides are located on the front or back or top or bottom. That's the kind of info I'm looking for so can understand what I'm doing and where I went wrong when things go south...........so, any suggestions?.....Thanks, Jackson
I've used the through dovetail template a number of times. A couple things....
Since the teimplate is fixed, not adjustable, I size my parts to the dovetail increments, making them so I end up with a half pin at each edge of the board.
If you do this, numbering the joints isn't as critical.
The pin and socket boards go into the jig good face out. Cut the sockets in one end, rotate the board end for end, cut the other end.
Tail boards go in the jig good face in. Same procedure....cut one end, rotate end for end, cut the other end.
If the joint is symmetrical, half pin on each edge, you can do all the cuts on the same side of the jig (left or right). When you assemble keep the edge of each piece that was against the alignment shoulder on the jig registered, and you should be fine.
I think my description reads more complicated than the process really is. Let me know if you have more questions.
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