Nov. 01, 08 - 12:57PM
This'll be a long answer, so get a cup of coffee and a doughnut...
First, let's talk about saw upgrades. You can put a modern Biesemeyer-style fence on most older saws, and reap all the benefits those fences offer newer saws. You'll probably have to drill some holes to do this, but cast iron is easy to drill. I've helped about half-a-dozen woodworkers upgrade their machines this way, and it's not too difficult.
As with older cars, it begs the question, is it worth it? You'll have a new fence, but do you have a good guard? Magnetic on/off switch? Well machined pulleys and a good drive belt? Making additional upgrades may quickly add up to the cost of a new saw.
Now, the difference between contractor and cabinet saws. Contractor saws are identified by their open bases, and the motor projecting out the back of the saw. They're usually 110-volt machines with 1.5-2 hp (15 amp) motors.
Cabinet saws are identified by all the parts being confined within a cabinet beneath the saw, so you can't readily see the motor. They're typically 3 hp or more with 2 or 3 drive belts, or one large poly-V belt. The entire drive system is heavier than what's found on contractor saws.
I opened my school with a contractor saw, but dust control (or lack of it) soon got the best of me. The open nature of cont. saw bases doesn't really lend itself to good dust control. The saw was more than adequate for the cuts we made, but the lack of dust control was a deal breaker so I upgraded to a cabinet saw.
I'm not alone in the dust control complaint, so manufacturers developed hybrid saws. A hybrid saw is, basically, contractor saw guts housed in a cabinet. So you get the plug and play benefit of a 110-volt machine (many can also be wired 220-volt), but the dust collection benefits of a cabinet saw. Price is about halfway between typical cont. saw and cab. saw prices.
Professional shops like 3+ hp cabinet saws because of the continuous duty they see in most shops. Those babies run off and on all day, 8-10 hours a day, 5-7 days a week. If you routinely rip thick stock (6/4 or greater) you'll appreciate the larger motor.
I think most hobbyist woodworkers will be very happy with a hybrid saw. They're more mobile (lighter weight) than cabinet saws, have good dust control, and plenty of juice for cutting. Remember that you can optimize the available power on your tablesaw by using a thin kerf blade instead of a full kerf blade. I recommend you use a thin kerf rip blade on contractor and hybrid saws.
Brand? That's tough. First, you should spend as much money on a tablesaw as you can possibly afford. It's the adage "Spend the money up front and you'll only cry once." You'll use the tablesaw a lot, and shouldn't feel like you've compromised the purchase. There are lots of good machines out there, so I can't recommend a single brand. Visit a woodworking retailer and see what models they have on hand that you can touch a feel. A woodworking show may be a good option for this, too.
Good luck. Let us know if you do an upgrade or make a new tool purchase.
George Vondriska, Editor
