WoodWorkers Guild of America » Tools

Bandsaw 101

(10 posts)
  1. User has not uploaded an avatar

    Member Comment

    Member Comment
    Joined: Apr '10
    Posts: 171

    Apr. 14, 09 - 01:30PM

    I bought a Jet 1hp bandsaw and it seems very under-powered to me. I would like to be able to resaw hardwoods and I need to know how much bandsaw I need. I have arranged to take this bandsaw back to upgrade to another one. What should I look for? How big should the motor be? Will a wider blade cut hardwood better? I looked for the info online, but I was unable to find the answers. In one of your videos you cut a veneer strip out of Mohogany. What type of bandsaw would I need to do that?

    Thanks, JP

    Submitted: Jpatters14

    # Posted 2 years ago
  2. pmayer

    Paul Mayer

    preferred member
    Joined: Dec '09
    Posts: 116

    Hi JP,

    I will let George comment on the band saw used in his video, but choosing the correct band saw will depend on your requirements. For periodic resawing, a 1HP 14" band saw will work fine. I use a 1/2" 3TPI blade on a saw of that nature, and it is more than adequate for my occasional resawing. Your saw supports a 3/4" blade, but this is generally not recommended for that saw, and you should get great results with the 1/2" blade. Also, the tooth count is critical. On my saw, 3TPI is perfect, 4TPI is adequate, and 6TPI is horrible for resawing. Also, I have found that premium band saw blades like Timberwolf are one of life's least expensive luxuries. My experience with resawing using the stock blade that came with the saw was not pleasant.

    So, I would suggest trying a good blade before returning your saw if you plan to just do occasional resawing. If you are trying to use your band saw as a lumber mill, then consider a beefier model that is sized to match your production requirements.

    # Posted 2 years ago
  3. GeorgeVondriska

    George Vondriska

    preferred member
    Joined: Sep '08
    Posts: 150

    JP

    I've got a Delta 14" bandsaw, with a riser block, I've been using since about 1993. It's got a 3/4-hp motor.

    Like Paul said, blade selection is important. When I'm resawing dried stock, like you saw in the video, I use a 1/2" 4 tpi blade. When cutting green wood, like for large bowl blanks, I use a 3/4" blade.

    I've done my Logs To Lumber demo, in which I cut 10"+ diameter logs into planks, at woodworking shows numerous times on the Jet 1-hp saw. Make sure you're using a good blade before you throw the baby out with the bath water.

    G

    # Posted 2 years ago
  4. WWGOAEditor

    Editor

    Editor
    Joined: Apr '10
    Posts: 81

    Apr. 16, 09 - 09:13AM

    In the video clip that you're referring to I'm using a bandsaw with a 3/4-hp motor.

    Make sure that all of your set ups are correct. The guide blocks or bearings and thrust bearing need to be properly set and, if you're using a fence for resawing, the fence needs to be set. This means compensating for any drift in the blade. All bandsaws have some amount of blade drift. An improperly set fence can cause binding, which can make a saw seem underpowered.

    In general, when resawing, you'll want to use a wider blade. I use a 1/2" blade for dry wood, and 3/4" for green wood. Additionally, as you saw on the clip, I really like low tension blades. The folks at PS Wood are very knowledgeable and can help you with a blade that's best for your saw and the cuts you're making.

    George Vondriska, Editor
    # Posted 2 years ago
  5. User has not uploaded an avatar

    Charles M.

    new member
    Joined: Nov '09
    Posts: 1

    I have come to the conclusion that my 1 hp motor that came with the saw does not produce the rated hp. I have followed all of Mr. Vonriska's suggestions, blade, machine setup, and sled for the log and I remain unable to saw green Walnut logs. To date I have invested just shy of $ 200 for riser kit, blades and material for constructing the sled. To observe the ease of the process of cutting Elm in the film clip, in comparison it appears that Mr. Vonriska is cutting Balsa wood where as I am attempting to cut granite.
    To say I am disappointed in the results I have obtained would be a gross understatement.

    # Posted 11 months ago
  6. GeorgeVondriska

    George Vondriska

    preferred member
    Joined: Sep '08
    Posts: 150

    Charles

    Sorry this process isn't working out for you. Outside of the suggestions listed above the only other thing I can think of is blade tension. On a thick cut, like a large log, an under tensioned blade will bow as it goes from the top of the cut to the bottom. This adds a lot of stress to the saw and motor, and is likely to dog it down. As a ball park guide for tension, look for about 1/4" of deflection when you push on the side of the blade with the upper guide 6" above the table (saw unplugged). I realize this is very subjective, and dependent on how hard you push on the blade. Try this approach with a little pressure from your finger. Then resaw a 6" wide hardwood board. After the board is sawn put a straight edge across the cut face and see if it's flat. If it has any amount of "barrel cut" to it (one face would be concave and one convex) the blade doesn't have enough tension on it.

    G

    # Posted 11 months ago
  7. User has not uploaded an avatar

    Geoff

    new member
    Joined: Aug '11
    Posts: 4

    I see by the dates I'm way too late to be of help to "new member." Nevertheless, this might help someone down the line.

    I have a Delta 14" with 3/4 hp motor. I could not resaw a 5" dry oak board. The band/blade would stall with minimal feed pressure. No heat, very little noise, motor did not bog down, quite confusing. I was using a low tension blade from TimberWolf. I was zeroed in on problems within the saw mechanism and blocked out any thoughts of trouble below the saw. I followed all the tune up suggestions listed above. I contacted Mark Duginske, author of a book on bandsaws, for advice. I replaced the tires. I contacted Delta but only got canned answers and an invitation to take the saw to the nearest approved repair facility. I finally circumvented my mental block and thought to open the doors and look at the wheels. The drive wheel was not turning; the belt was slipping. This Delta tightens its belt via the weight of the motor. I shortened the belt to bring the motor's weight more vertical. That helped slightly. Finally I just tied a thin rope from the motor bracket to the table cross piece and twisted it tight. Now I can resaw with ease. I wonder how much asymmetrical force I'm placing on the bearings of the drive wheel shaft but at least the saw works now.

    Geoff

    # Posted 9 months ago
  8. pmayer

    Paul Mayer

    preferred member
    Joined: Dec '09
    Posts: 116

    Geoff,

    I am glad you got this working (and your approach was quite resourceful!), but the solution makes me squeamish. It just seems like it shouldn't be necessary, and is probably taking a long term toll on the bearings as you have identified. I would consider bringing it into a repair shop, particularly if it is still under any coverage.

    # Posted 9 months ago
  9. GeorgeVondriska

    George Vondriska

    preferred member
    Joined: Sep '08
    Posts: 150

    I agree with Paul. Tensioning beyond what the machine is designed for doesn't seem like a good idea. I also advocate checking with a repair center.

    G

    # Posted 9 months ago
  10. User has not uploaded an avatar

    Geoff

    new member
    Joined: Aug '11
    Posts: 4

    Paul, I agree with your concern. I delayed and tried everything I could think of before tightening the belt "my way." I did so partly to see if increased tension was, indeed, what I needed and partly out of frustration of having a tool that didn't do what it was designed to do.

    I didn't mention above, but the lower wheel turns freely without the belt on so I don't think there's abnormal resistance in the bearings. That leaves the belt, the pulleys, or an alignment abnormality as the only area for a problem... or at least the only area I can think of. Perhaps it is time for a repair center. Unfortunately that's 120 miles away. I will also try Delta's support again. Perhaps under its new owner/management it is better.

    Geoff

    # Posted 9 months ago
  11. User has not uploaded an avatar

    Geoff

    new member
    Joined: Aug '11
    Posts: 4

    Update. Delta does not have a support service on line, just referral to repair centers. There's no contact other than a section on ideas for new products. No avenue for questions. I was wrong on the repair center distance. There are several within 20 miles. One of them is a tool wholesaler. I'll contact them.

    Geoff

    # Posted 9 months ago

Reply

You must Log In to post.