WoodWorkers Guild of America » Recent Topics

cooperalvanguard on "DVD #2 Furniture Making Classy Mission Table"

cooperalvanguard — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 14:42:33 +0000

Hello George: Like your DVD Series on Woodworking. I have sent a suggestion to <a href="mailto:productprograms@program-director.net">productprograms@program-director.net</a> about the Mission Table Dvd as follows Dear Sirs: Attn: George Vondriska (Hi George-I appreciate your masterful Woodworking skills) I just received the Number 2 DVD in the collection- Furniture Making and listened and watched your instructions to make the Classy Mission Style table. It will go great in our home. I have only one suggestion to make to your DVD presentation that you should include the CUT AND MATERIAL LISTS for the furniture style being built. It would be easier to follow your presentation and your excellent directions when all the parts are in front of the woodworker ready for cutting and sizing. instead of waiting for you to give the dimensions as you go through the exercise. I hope this is a good suggestion to improve upon. ]I understand that the DVD's are produced in advance of this E-mail. Maybe you can include the Cut and Material Lists when shipping out the DVD's when a project is to be built. Can you send me a Cut and Materials List for the Classy Mission Style Table it would be appreciate[]. I have a 19 Inch 720P TV installed in my garage and I have included a DVD Player so I can watch your videos in the garage-shop. I also installed a Western Digital HD Video TV Streaming Device (like a Roku) so I can stream You Tube Clips from WWGOA.com and George Vondriska-Editor material. I have Woodworking Information from various other sites that I can stream from my computer sharing folders to the TV including WWGOA. This is my favorite site of sites. Thanks for all the help you have contributed to the Woodworking Field. I am 72 years young and been doing WW for four years (sick for 2 of the four). WW has brought back to feeling good about myself and your easy style of presentation makes me feel confident that I can continue my hobby into the future. Best regards, Louis Margolies (cooperalvanguard) 1256 Ivy Arbor Lane Lincoln, Ca. 95648 9164082987 Please send a copy of the CUT and MATERIALS LISTS for this project.

Tommy S. on "Miter Saw"

Tommy S. — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 14:29:12 +0000

I'm trying to set up my miter saw to cut square. I looked at the article from 2010 that covered this topic,but do I lay test boards fly or stand up? It appears that in article they are stood up to make test cuts. My problem is when I make a cut in a wide board it's not square. What's best way to get corrected? Thanks Tommy

k3cfc on "Carvewright machine"

k3cfc — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 14:33:59 +0000

I am interested in opinions on the carve wright machine. i have read a lot of bad reviews and some good ones.

Parry S. on "What would you do?"

Parry S. — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 19:46:06 +0000

I have a friend who purchased an Oak table for $15.00. This is because the top is warped beyond restoration. (size is 96" X 42" using two leafs inserted.) I wanted to replace the top with new oak but she doesn't want the expense. I next suggested an oak plywood with oak banding on the edges. Then she said she had to have rounded corners so she could seat someone on the corner. Should I run from it or offer her $30.00 and do it for me?

XXXLTD on "Glass finish on clear fir?"

XXXLTD — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:22:49 +0000

I have one shot at putting on a gloss finish on a piece of clear fir, because I will have lettering under the finish and cannot sand or use steelwool. Any thoughts on what I should use? Bush or spray? Thanksl

cer7960 on "Cherry Salad Spoons"

cer7960 — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 14:49:42 +0000

Here's a picture of a set of salad spoons that I carved from pieces of cherry. I finished them with salad bowl finish. Thanks for looking.

caspersgrin on "Plastic laminate, what to get"

caspersgrin — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 01:56:43 +0000

Hi, I'm building a router table base on the instructions in Bill Hylton's Router Magic. To keep moisture out so that the table top stays flat, the instructions say to use plastic laminate. But since I'm unfamiliar with laminates in general, when I go to a plastics shop, what exactly do I ask for. Are there different kinds of laminates or if I simply ask for a sheet of plastic laminate and so I need to specify exactly what I want (and what ould that be). Or, do I simply ask for a sheet of plastic laminate and expect whoever I'm talking with to know just what I want? Thanks, Rob

DALYANBOB on "Table Saw Jig Magnets"

DALYANBOB — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 18:39:46 +0000

Hi George This is my very first post on your forum, Having only yesterday found the site. I'd like to say that you seem to have all sorts of "areas" that are going to keep my attention, so thanks for that. I viewed your Video "A shop-made table saw Jig for narrow strips" and was very impressed with the Rare Earth magnets, which were used in the Jig. You state that these are picked up from specialty woodworking shops could you please be a little more specific as to "which stores" I might pick these up from as I cannot seem to be able to find them. Regards DALYANBOB

lonestarsmoker on "Lubrication"

lonestarsmoker — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 02:33:58 +0000

What is a good dry lubricant for my Bosch table saw?

COBeav on "SawStop. Worth It?"

COBeav — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 04:32:18 +0000

I'm in the market for a new tablesaw as it's time to upgrade from my old Craftsman saw, and am stuck on the SawStop question(s) in my head. Is the extra money worth it for the technology, and then, is the SawStop really a great tool outside of that blade stop technology? How would you rate the quality of a SawStop to other comparable saws? Frankly ... I want a SawStop, but it seems like I can get more tool for the same money (or even less) but is it worth it. Oh, and believe me I know about fingers as my dad has a thumb that doesn't work when it tangled with his tablesaw blade!

Tommy S. on "warping top"

Tommy S. — Sat, 21 Jan 2012 15:08:43 +0000

I'm trying to build a 18"x18" top. After glue up & sanding, the top cupped, I tried putting weight on to flated,but once removed cupped returned. I used maple any advise? Thanks Tommy

Amalgam on "Veneered MDF or real solid wood."

Amalgam — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 20:34:27 +0000

Hi guys, I am completely new at fine wood working. So my first ever big piece (I have done a lot of small things and boxes, but never a piece of furniture) is going to be a cabinet for my cigars and pipes. I would like to have a combination of Walnut and Cherry (legs and frame with walnut and panels made of cherry) in a very minimalist squared and straight line piece. However, I would like to have the entire inside of cabinet (drawers, shelves and anything else)made of Spanish cedar. Here are the questions Would I be better off making the cabinet out of MDF and use veneers for both sides (of course using the cherry veneer out side and Spanish cedar venner inside)? or make it out solid wood and linen it up thin pieces of Spanish Cedar Thank you

Tommy S. on "Clamps"

Tommy S. — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 18:58:14 +0000

George where can I find the clamps I see in your videos that appear to have the large handles? Tommy

Kressinr on "Built-in Kitchen cabinets"

Kressinr — Tue, 17 Jan 2012 18:13:40 +0000

Does anyone know of a good website shows how to construct built in kitchen cabinets?

cer7960 on "Magic Wand Stand"

cer7960 — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 18:06:41 +0000

Here is a picture of a stand I made for a "Harry Potter" magic wand. It's constructed from mahogany, veneered with quilted bubinga and curly maple supports. It's finished with satin poly. Thanks for looking, Cy

donan on "Church window frame"

donan — Sat, 15 Oct 2011 09:05:26 +0000

I agreed to make a frame for an antique stained glass church window from my supply of oak. It will be 48" wide by 60" high. the top 60 percent of each side is the usual arched shape with about a 48" radius on both sides ending in a point at the top. It must be back-lit to show up hanging against the wall. The glass is in a studio being renovated. The frame must be about 5" to 6" deep and strong enough for the weight (about 80 pounds for the glass). I have no way to bend the side frame (steam box, etc.). THe side wood needs to be at least 3/4" at its thinnest point. My only option I can think of is to make it from short pieces glued together and band sawn to shape, then veneer the outside for a finish. Any suggestions? I can sure use the help. Don Honenberger, Lynn, In.

cer7960 on "Plant Stand"

cer7960 — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 19:54:38 +0000

Here is a picture of an Indoor/Outdoor plant stand. It" made from western red cedar so it can be placed outside. The shelves are moveable and I provided an area where a "grow" light can be mounted so it can be used to start seedlings. It works great for growing herbs indoors.

Paul Mayer on "Picture of Don's Single Wood Toaster Tongs"

Paul Mayer — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 21:57:15 +0000

Thanks for sending this picture of your one piece toaster tongs, Don! (user name "Donan") Looks great!

Stanley H. on "Black discoloration on picnic tables"

Stanley H. — Mon, 07 Nov 2011 01:56:40 +0000

This summer I rebuilt my deck railings and then I built 2 octagon picnic tables. I spent 50 hours on these babies and they looked great. I even sanded the top and the seats. To reduce the weight I used KD instead of PT then stained them with Cabot (cedar) deck stain. Over the first few weeks the color darkened to a richer color and improved. I got many posative comments on the quality of these tables. Then after about a month I noticed black stains begining to show. Now about 3 month later the tops and seats are horribly stained with this black coloring. Yesterday I noticed that the deck seat I had created with PT when I rebuilt the railings (built before the tables and currently un protected) was starting to show this dark stain too. Ironically I had also sanded this seat top. The rest of the table components still looks like the day I stained them (just a little richer in color) . The rest of the PT deck railings are fine as well. I sanded them with my Jet 16/32 and 100 grit silicon carbide paper, followed by some finish sanding with the RO and P100 P-120etc. I took photos of the Blackness, but having issues getting them off the camera, attached is an as-built photo. Could this be some reaction between Silcon Carbide and the sun? Or Silicon Carbide and the stain? How do I fix it?

donan on "toaster tongs"

donan — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:09:21 +0000

Sorry but you will have to imagine what these 1-piece toaster tongs look like. After spending several hours in several sessions trying to input a photo, I give up. There has to be as simpler way to upload a photo. Every time I try to input an attachment, the program tells me I've not put anything in and tells me to go back to the home page. By the way, I got the plans in a magazine (I can't recall which one), shortly after my wife bought me a Hawk 20" Scroll saw some 35 years ago.

dc1236 on "Oak Handrailing - Best finish?"

dc1236 — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 16:22:08 +0000

I'm going to be building a short (approx. 72" long) section of handrailing this winter for my basement. Unfortunately, I don't have a heated shop to do alot of the work in, so I will be using a work area I have in my basement that is adequate (and safe). What would be the best type of finish to use on it, since I can not spray any finishing on it? I am aware that most finishes are flammable, but do have a work-around area and solution for that. Wipe on finishes like Watco would take too much abuse wouldn't it? I really don't want to brush on anything (like Polycrylic) either, considering alot of the spindles are turned. Any help would be appreciated. The photo I've included is one similar to what I will be building. Thanks for your input. Dustin

donan on "Thin shims"

donan — Mon, 02 Jan 2012 19:35:15 +0000

Recently I had a dovetail bit slip in the router chuck and went deeper on the end of a part. Cutting off the extra at the minimum to save the shelf brace didn't matter, but I ended up with a dovetail that was too thin for the job. Fortunately, I made several multi-masted sailing ship models over the years and had some spare planking left over. Gluing this to the sides of the dovetails saved the job. The planking is available from "Model Expo" model supplier in Florida (on the internet). The planking comes in a variety of wood types and is usually about .05 mm by about 1/4 wide. It sure saves trying to cut those very thin pieces and most of the time it only takes that .05 mm (about .020") to do the job. THe last I bought gave me about 50 pieces 20.0" long for less than $5.00 but that was a few years back. Model-Expo is listed on the internet with their full catalog. I really enjoy the old sailing ship models and have made several, including a stern-wheel river boat and a ship-in-a bottle. P.S. the planking can be inbedded on picture frames for nice decoration lines for contrast also.

donan on "Eraser"

donan — Mon, 02 Jan 2012 18:54:07 +0000

I'm a retired Tool & Manufacturing Engineer and acquired two Bruning erasers over the years. They make a wonderful shop addition. It's much easier to erase old pencil marks than sanding them off as you don't change the shape of your parts, and it eliminates cutting to the wrong lines. They are great time savers for large jobs as well as small design changes. The erasers come in 7" lengths and in a variety of abrasive grades. I've used them as a small, slow rpm "lathes" for various small parts. The hollow shaft allows work on long parts. I've also used them when making some "plank-on-frame" ship models (I really enjoy making them), they are the only way I could taper both ends of spars (shaping both ends from the center for flexibility and strength- they don't break as easily as they can flex). Some items made by this technique requore wrapping small diameter parts with tape to fit the 1/4" i.d. clutch. These erasers are probably stocked in any drafting supply stores or possibly on line for around $30-00 or so, I've never checked as I have had these for over thirty years and Bruning is one of the largest suppliers of engineering supplies. You won't be disappointed with one on hand

davemcpherson on "poly wood"

davemcpherson — Sat, 31 Dec 2011 14:43:47 +0000

what is poly wood?

mjgord on "FS 1942 Dewlat RAS"

mjgord — Sat, 31 Dec 2011 00:09:57 +0000

Here is a 1942 Dewalt RAS 12" #GP 1.5 hp 115 volt 18 amp motor. It has only been in our family. If any one interested in it you can Email me at <a href="mailto:mjg02harley@netzero.com">mjg02harley@netzero.com</a>

mjgord on "FS Dewalt RAS 1942"

mjgord — Sat, 31 Dec 2011 00:00:58 +0000

I have my grandfathers 12" Dewlat #GP RAS with the kick back pawl and a 8' dado set also with miss. blades. It has a 1.5 hp, 115 volt, 18 amp AC / DC motor. The power cord has been replaced and all tests out in working order. This saw is in all original condition as you can see. My grandfather bought this saw new in 1942. Now I have it and I don't have the room for it. Iam asking $1200 and if any shipping cost. I live close to Palm Springs Ca. You can Email me at <a href="mailto:mjg02harley@netzero.com">mjg02harley@netzero.com</a> for any questions. Thanks, Marvin

George Vondriska on "Christmas Wishes"

George Vondriska — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 18:13:56 +0000

A newsletter recently went out with the wish of Happy Holidays to all. A few of you have commented on the use of Happy Holidays instead of Merry Christmas. At the risk of now insulting those of you who prefer Happy Holidays, I'm here to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. What time of year would be better than this to set aside differences? So, a hearty handshake to all of you, and true wishes for the best of Christmases and the happiest of New Years. G

toddbdub on "Square?"

toddbdub — Sat, 10 Dec 2011 21:15:52 +0000

I'm very new to woodworking and I am frustrated with my inability to get a piece of wood square. I have a combination square but cannot get it right for the life of me. I am trying to cut very simple cutting boards as Christmas gifts. What am I missing?

XXXLTD on "Ketchen tongs, DVD"

XXXLTD — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 14:41:41 +0000

I swear I saw a WWGOA DVD on how to make wood ketchen tongs but I cannot find it. I love those step by step video's. Did I dream it? Terry

davwi on "cabinet doors"

davwi — Sun, 11 Dec 2011 12:26:02 +0000

I am building new doors for all the cabinets in my house 44 in all the project will likely take up to four months before they are ready to paint I am wondering if i should primer my doors to prevent them from warping while they are stockpiled waiting for the painter? I live in a very dry climate Phoenix area, and the are panel doors are made with poplar and Baltic birch panels What should my primer be and how should i stack them Thanks Dave