http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ en Sat, 18 May 2013 20:38:50 +0000 http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/fixing-my-router-table-top#post-1511 Mon, 03 Dec 2012 15:48:49 +0000 Dan P. 1511@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Mike, I had to do this when I first built my table. On <a href="http://www.crestonwood.com/router.php#insert">this link</a>, if you look closely at the picture, you&#39;ll see the 3/8&quot; right and left slivers I made from a piece of laminated MDF. I&#39;m not proud of my boo-boo, but the fix is hardly noticeable. Been working great for four years. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/fixing-my-router-table-top#post-1498 Wed, 28 Nov 2012 15:12:35 +0000 buhaza 1498@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Head to your local fabricator and provide the size of the desired insert size. You may then drill the holes to fit your router and the router lift. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-burn#post-1468 Fri, 23 Nov 2012 01:40:57 +0000 WoodDude 1468@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>First a couple of questions:</p> <p>1. What type of router bit are you using, carbide or high speed steel?<br /> 2. How large of a mortise are you cutting?<br /> 3. How deep is the mortise?<br /> 4. What wood are you cutting?</p> <p>Generally speaking, straight bits should not need to be run at slower speeds. The slower speeds are useful for large diameter bits and agressive bits. A consistent feed rate will prevent burning with most bits. Making multiple passes also helps lessen the load on the router and keeps the bit from overheating. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-burn#post-1466 Thu, 22 Nov 2012 01:31:43 +0000 Bruce Kieffer 1466@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>I would say to also try a spiral downcut bit, and try slowing down your router speed if you have that option. The spiral downcut bit will help pull the waste material out of the cut. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-burn#post-1465 Thu, 22 Nov 2012 00:35:22 +0000 okie 1465@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>1. Use a sharp bit.<br /> 2. Take only a little wood at a time, especially with hardwood. I would consider using a drill press to hog out a lot of the wood so that when you drop the piece onto the bit you don&#39;t have so much for it to cut.<br /> 3. Move the piece slowly, but steadily across the bit. You don&#39;t want to bog down by pushing too hard.<br /> 4. Don&#39;t stop the cut once you begin unless you back off the uncut wood. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-burn#post-1464 Wed, 21 Nov 2012 21:20:50 +0000 Earl P. 1464@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>how to router mortises on router table without burning router bits? </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/fixing-my-router-table-top#post-1298 Sat, 08 Sep 2012 11:11:54 +0000 Paul Mayer 1298@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>How about filling in the gaps with mdf and covering the table with another piece of laminate? Obviously you will need to shim or adjust the height of the router lift to accomodate the additional thickness of laminate, but that should be a minor effort and their might be enough adjustment in the router lift itself to handle that. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/fixing-my-router-table-top#post-1297 Sat, 08 Sep 2012 04:36:41 +0000 mikegraw 1297@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>I have a problem that I am not sure how to fix.</p> <p>Some time ago I built a very nice router table. I glued 2 3/4 inch pieces of MDF together and put white laminate on them to create the top. There was a router table insert that I was using to hold the router. Everything worked fine until my Freud router burnt out while I was creating some sample raised panels doors. </p> <p>Since we will be making all the cabinets for our kitchen, I decided to buy a 3+ hp router. After debating which one, the PC 3 1/4 hr was purchased. Since I didn&#39;t want to always be reaching under the table to twist the motor I sprung for the Jessum router lift that is on sale at Woodcraft this month.</p> <p>So here is the problem. The router table insert for the Jessum lift is about the same depth but it isn&#39;t as long as the old table insert. That being the case I have a gap at both ends of the new lift table insert. At Woodcraft they recommended filling the gap with mdf or plywood. I have a very nice looking table so I don&#39;t want to add something and have it look cheesy. The gap also isn&#39;t quite even from front to back.</p> <p>How would you fill the gap or what would you fill it with? Also, how would you go about making the proper fitting item.</p> <p>Thanks for your help.</p> <p>Mike </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-tablefenceinsert-purchase#post-1142 Fri, 15 Jun 2012 02:09:35 +0000 philipdeitsch 1142@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p><blockquote><strong>dalepage wrote:</strong><br /> Philip, I recently bought a JessEm package on sale. The package gave me an upgraded table along with the entry level lift and fence. I added their brand of stop block, which slides on the T-track of the fence. The table is steady and comes with levelers. I bought locking casters at Lowes and can roll the table under a tall work bench if I take off the fence. Shipping was quick, despite coming from Canada, and well packaged.<br /> Dale</blockquote><br /> DalePage - Thanks for the feedback; I went with a Jessem Router Table Package. In your post you mentioned a set of locking casters you had gotten at Lowe&#39;s; I couldn&#39;t find them at my local Lowe&#39;s store. I&#39;m pretty sure the feet on the Jessem table carry a metric threaded bolt. I&#39;d sure appreciate you&#39;re letting me know just what you used. My shop is not very large, the Jessem table is heavy and I would like to be able to readily move it when necessary. Thank you AGAIN. Phil </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-tablefenceinsert-purchase#post-1110 Wed, 30 May 2012 20:46:47 +0000 philipdeitsch 1110@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p><blockquote><strong>George Vondriska wrote:</strong><br /> Phillip<br /> I&#39;ve got the JessEm fence, table, and insert in my shop. Sorry, can&#39;t remembe where I purchased them. They&#39;ve been in my shop for a very long time.<br /> G</blockquote></p> <p>George - Thanks for the information. I went to the Jessem web site and found and ordered what I was after. I look forward to getting the package and making some shavings.<br /> Best to you, Philip </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-tablefenceinsert-purchase#post-1109 Wed, 30 May 2012 20:43:19 +0000 philipdeitsch 1109@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p><blockquote><strong>dalepage wrote:</strong><br /> I ordered my router table package on line. They have great customer service, which has a phone number on line. I was able to ask questions before ordering.</blockquote><br /> dalepage -<br /> Thanks very much for the advice. I went to the Jessem web site and found what I was looking for and went ahead and placed an order with them. Once the table arrives I&#39;m going to look into adding lockable casters to it to be able to move it as needed as you described. I look forward to getting the table in my place and making some shavings. Thanks again and best to you. Philip </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-tablefenceinsert-purchase#post-1087 Thu, 17 May 2012 13:23:12 +0000 dalepage 1087@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>I ordered my router table package on line. They have great customer service, which has a phone number on line. I was able to ask questions before ordering. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-tablefenceinsert-purchase#post-1084 Wed, 16 May 2012 21:31:42 +0000 George Vondriska 1084@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Phillip</p> <p>I&#39;ve got the JessEm fence, table, and insert in my shop. Sorry, can&#39;t remembe where I purchased them. They&#39;ve been in my shop for a very long time.</p> <p>G </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-tablefenceinsert-purchase#post-1082 Wed, 16 May 2012 15:24:11 +0000 dalepage 1082@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Philip, I recently bought a JessEm package on sale. The package gave me an upgraded table along with the entry level lift and fence. I added their brand of stop block, which slides on the T-track of the fence. The table is steady and comes with levelers. I bought locking casters at Lowes and can roll the table under a tall work bench if I take off the fence. Shipping was quick, despite coming from Canada, and well packaged.</p> <p>Dale </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-tablefenceinsert-purchase#post-1081 Wed, 16 May 2012 03:13:09 +0000 philipdeitsch 1081@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>I am at a point where I would like to purchase a router table/fence/insert and I don&#39;t want to make the wrong choice. After watching George in the &quot;Shaker Sideboard&quot; and the &quot;Bedside Table&quot; DVD&#39;s the brand(s) he used looked accurate and easy to use. I would like to know the brand name of the router table, fence and the insert shown in those videos and where they were purchased. I know they were not inexpensive and for that reason I don&#39;t want to make a wrong purchase and am asking your guidance. I am a longtime subscriber to your &quot;Woodworking Video Collection.&quot; Thank you for your insight and I look forward to your response. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-table-height-adjustment-system#post-257 Tue, 27 Apr 2010 18:59:53 +0000 Editor 257@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Nov. 03, 08 - 09:28AM </p> <p>I built the cabinet my router table sits on. All of the router-specific components are from <a href="http://www.jessem.com/">JessEm</a>, consisting of a <a href="http://www.jessem.com/MAST-R-TOP.html">Mast-R-Top</a>, <a href="http://www.jessem.com/MAST-R-LIFT.html">Mast-R-Lift</a>, and <a href="http://www.jessem.com/MAST-R-FENCE_II.html">Mast-R-Fence</a>.</p> <p>Once you use a router lift, you get spoiled fast. They make it extremely easy to dial in height adjustment in tiny increments. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-table-height-adjustment-system#post-231 Tue, 27 Apr 2010 17:42:28 +0000 Member Comment 231@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Nov. 03, 08 - 08:01AM </p> <p>Where did you get your router table? That height adjustment system looks pretty sweet. It takes me a long time to get the height perfect. </p> <p>Submitted: Twstack1 </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-table-extension-wing#post-168 Fri, 23 Apr 2010 01:30:38 +0000 George Vondriska 168@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>John</p> <p>I&#39;m with Paul. I think that incorporating a router table set up into your table saw makes a lot of sense. </p> <p>I&#39;m on my feet all day every day, and find that it&#39;s all about the shoes. Don&#39;t short change yourself on footwear, and add a couple insole inserts for a little more cushion.</p> <p>G </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-table-extension-wing#post-141 Thu, 22 Apr 2010 02:39:55 +0000 Paul Mayer 141@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Hi John,</p> <p>I think you will find that having a router table built in to your table saw wing is a great move for a small shop. The offer great stability taking advantage of the weight of your table saw, and a solid table saw fence. They are not hard to build, but there are some great ones commercially available now as well. The only real downside is that you have to change setups when you go back and forth between router table and table saw. I operated that way for about five years when I was in a smaller shop, and I did not find it to be inconvenient at all. In fact, it had advantages over the dedicated router table setup that I use now.</p> <p>Regarding the anti-fitigue mats, I deal with this one as well, but the hassle is worth it due to the avoidance of shin splints. The only suggestion that I would have is to consider getting a pair of great standing shoes, and forgo the mats. I have also heard of woodworkings gluing anti-fitigue material to the bottoms of their shoes, and using that instead of mats. Seems logical although I haven&#39;t tried it. I found a great deal on some surplus commercial rubber flooring tiles, and I have them spread around the shop in areas where I normally stand. But I am constantly sliding them around when I reconfigure the shop. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/router-table-extension-wing#post-140 Thu, 22 Apr 2010 01:33:20 +0000 John F. 140@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Hi all,<br /> I have a small shop with a table saw, drill press, disk sander, and rather large router table (32&quot; wide). However, I feel rather crowded and have been thinking of building/buying an extension wing for my table saw that contains a router table. They look cool, but are they as practicle as having a separate router table? </p> <p>Also, my shop floor is concrete which I find very tiring on my legs. However, the cheap anti-fatigue mats I have are cumbersome when I need to roll around my shop tools. Do you have any recommendations for mats that don&#39;t cost an arm and leg to buy and are convenient to use?</p> <p>Thanks much,<br /> John </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/problem-using-router-table-as-jointer#post-93 Wed, 21 Apr 2010 16:07:39 +0000 Editor 93@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Dec. 21, 08 - 10:38AM</p> <p>The router table can provide as dead straight an edge as a jointer. </p> <p>Sounds like you&#39;re doing the right checks on your work. The fence must be dead straight. You can check that with a good quality level as a straight edge. Make this check before you put the shims behind the outfeed fence. </p> <p>My suspicion is that your fence is just slightly too far forward. In other word, you&#39;re not taking quite enough off. When this happens the board will still be able to climb up on to the outfeed fence. The &quot;jump&quot; on to that fence can be so subtle you don&#39;t know it&#39;s climbing, but it is, and this prevents you from getting a dead straight edge. </p> <p>If the fence is too far away from the bit you&#39;ll take too much off and get a snipe at the end of the cut.</p> <p>Hope this helps. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/problem-using-router-table-as-jointer#post-74 Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:42:51 +0000 Member Comment 74@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Dec. 20, 08 - 02:17PM </p> <p>Having seen the router table used as a jointer in one of WWGOA&#39;s videos, I thought I&#39;d give it a try.</p> <p>In trying to joint the edge on 24&quot; X 6&quot; X 3/4&quot; white oak boards, I constantly had a gap in the center when I butted two jointed boards together. The gap grew from nothing at each end to about 1/32&quot; to 1/16&quot; at the center.</p> <p>I checked my setup over and over, even took the fence apart on the router table to insure the fence was straight and true. </p> <p>I eventually took the boards to the table saw and ran each board through twice. The first cut was with the jointed edge against the fence, and the second time with the jointed edge against the blade. You could see the saw taking a tiny bit off the leading and trailing edge as the board went through the second pass. I ended up using the boards as they came from the table saw as they were better than what I&#39;d done on the router table. </p> <p>Any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong? Am I expecting too much accuracy from the router, or should I just wait until I can afford a real jointer? </p> <p>Submitted: Bobmccormick </p>