http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ en Wed, 22 May 2013 02:27:50 +0000 http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/raised-panel-rail-and-stile-bits#post-258 Tue, 27 Apr 2010 19:03:52 +0000 Editor 258@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Oct. 13, 08 - 09:42PM </p> <p>I prefer the two-piece matched sets over the reversible bits. You&#39;ll get the best price if you buy a set that includes the door frame bits and the panel raiser, all in one kit. </p> <p>There are lots of good brands out there... Amana, CMT, Freud, Sommerfeld, Whiteside, Woodline... </p> <p>Be sure you get our free video article on making rail and stile doors with matched set bits. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/dead-flat-panels-for-a-kitchen-remodel-project#post-246 Tue, 27 Apr 2010 18:38:26 +0000 Editor 246@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Jul. 20, 09 - 07:47AM</p> <p>Terry,</p> <p>Make sure that your material is stable before doing a glue up. It should be dry, and have the chance to acclimate to your shop before you work with it. I get my material in to the shop environment 48 hours before I work with it.</p> <p>If you&#39;re running your boards through a jointer before edge gluing, be certain the fence on the jointer is perfectly perpendicular to the bed. It it&#39;s not, and even out of square just a tiny bit, you&#39;ll amplify that in the glue up and create a panel that isn&#39;t flat. Some woodworkers combat this by alternating the face that&#39;s against the fence so, even if the fence isn&#39;t perfectly square, the edges will offset each other.</p> <p>Finally, make sure the glue up is down to the beam of the clamps as you snug the clamps, and don&#39;t overtighten. You can add a caul to the glue up to help keep things flat, too. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/raised-panel-rail-and-stile-bits#post-233 Tue, 27 Apr 2010 17:47:59 +0000 Member Comment 233@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Oct. 13, 08 - 04:43PM</p> <p>I am going to make some doors and was wondering about router bit. Is it better to get a rail and stile bit that it reverseable or to get two seperate bits? What kind,where ? </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/dead-flat-panels-for-a-kitchen-remodel-project#post-203 Tue, 27 Apr 2010 03:20:51 +0000 Paul Mayer 203@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Hi Terry,</p> <p>There are several things that can go wrong, causing the panel to be non-flat. The most common problem that hinders me is that the stock itself can have a slight cup, twist, or bow to it. Occasionally I will miss an imperfection in one board, and the imperfection becomes more pronounced as the board becomes part of a wider panel. If this is the case, you may be able to cut the offending board out and replace with a better one by re-gluing the panel.</p> <p>Another thing that can cause problems is too much clamp pressure. This is a controversial point, and many woodworkers will say that there is not such thing as too much clamp pressure, while on the other extreme, I have heard of some who perform edge gluing with no clamps at all. I am somewhere between the two extremes. I have had more consistently flat glue ups since backing off on the vein-popping clamp pressure.</p> <p>Another problem is imperfect alignment of the panel. Be sure that all boards are planed to the same thickness, and be sure to force the boards flat to the clamps on the bottom. If they boards slide up the clamps from pressure they can cure in that position.</p> <p>One more possibility is improper jointer or table saw setup. If your jointed edges are not a perfect 90 degrees, this will cause you problems which become magnified over multiple joints in the panel. The best way to offset this is by marking the top of your panel, and then alternating the face that you run against the jointer fence. For each joint, you want to run one top of board, and one bottom of board, against the jointer fence. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/dead-flat-panels-for-a-kitchen-remodel-project#post-187 Mon, 26 Apr 2010 20:29:22 +0000 Member Comment 187@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Jul. 13, 09 - 02:47PM </p> <p>What is the best way to ensure a dead flat panel (raised panel) door? I have tried a couple of different ideas ans every once in a while I get one that ie not quite flat. Is there a secret that I am missing?</p> <p>Terry </p> <p>Submitted: Twstack1 </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/the-perfect-arch#post-58 Wed, 21 Apr 2010 14:44:33 +0000 Editor 58@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Oct. 06, 09 - 10:58AM</p> <p>I once made a headboard that posed a similar problem. It was made up of five raised panels, each panel making up part of a large arch on the headboard.</p> <p>Form the shape of your arch by ripping a thin strip from a piece of straight grained hardwood and bending it to the shape of arch you need. It&#39;s important to use a straight grained piece so it bends uniformly and creates a fair curve for the arch. You may need another pair of hands to help bow the strip while it&#39;s being traced.</p> <p>Yes, you can draw the arch on hardboard, then use the hardboard as a template to cut and flush trim the wood pieces. Once you have one line drawn measure from the original and mark a series of dots the correct distance from the first line, 2-in. in your case. Then strike a second line. </p> <p>The key to success with this process is accurately making the template. Any high or low spots will telegraph in to your final piece. </p> http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/topic/the-perfect-arch#post-54 Wed, 21 Apr 2010 14:30:37 +0000 Member Comment 54@http://www.wwgoa.com/forum/ <p>Sep. 29, 09 - 02:52PM </p> <p>I am making a raised panel valance over the kitchen sink to match the arch in my store bought cabinets. I need to make an arch to roughly match the existing on on the cabinet doors. Is there an easy way to draw this out on a piece of hardboard and then use a router with a flush trim bit to cut the oak to size? What is the best way to get the right size of arch and maintain an equal distance through the arch of 2&quot; width over a 76&quot; piece? </p> <p>Submitted: Twstack1 </p>