Long Distance Custom Cabinetry

 Empty fireplace

The aforementioned fireplace. The living room doubles as a playroom, and with two little children, the fireplace was rarely used. It is tapering towards the back, making this cabinet project slightly more challenging than a straightforward rectangle. The side panels would need 9 degree angles cut on them, and the four horizontal fixed shelves are trapezoidal.

Cabinet model

I headed to the computer to sketch a quick 3D model of the cabinet I wanted to make. I didn’t need a fancy model, but I often use the computer to help lay out projects and ‘do my math’ for me! I used the dimensions Michael gave me to dictate the size of the cabinet. I planned on using 3/4” maple plywood, and 3/4” solid maple for the face frame. The outsides of the cabinet are 1/2” smaller on every side (except the bottom) than the fireplace void, and I used a facing trim that overhangs the cabinet by 1-3/4” to ensure the gaps around the edges would be covered. The cabinet is held together with 2” long drywall screws, and the face frame is held together with hidden pocket screws, which I executed with the Kreg Jig. The face frame is attached to the cabinet with Kreg screws as well.

Kreg jig tool

The Kreg Jig is a sweet tool. An engineered drill bit bores an angled (pocket) hole to accommodate a Kreg self-tapping screw. The screws have a square drive and a built-in washer for tight joinery. While not stronger to a mortise & tenon or biscuit joint, the Kreg joint requires very little set-up time and is more than enough structure for a face frame… and the joint comes apart, which is crucial for this project!

Ripping an angle

Making Parts for the Cabinet

The first rule of cabinets: always cut mating or facing parts at the same time! I rip a 9 degree cut on each side of this panel which I will then make into the sides. This ensures that the angles and side dimensions match. 

Crosscutting cabinet parts

I continue to break down my parts; this time I trim the two sides to length. I have lined up my angled sides and marked the height of the cabinet. I use a Festool circular saw with an aluminum guide for crosscutting wider parts, but any circular saw will do this job with a shop made jig (Paul Mayer’s circ. Saw guide). This is safer and more accurate than cutting wide panels without a sled on the tablesaw.

Cross members to length

Continuing my mantra of cutting parts at the same time, I cut the four face frame cross members. I always mount a fresh MDF fence and check my miter jig for square with a test cut before I make an important series of cuts. You never know if the jig has been kicked or dropped, and it doesn’t take but a half of a degree to really screw up a project! A stop block clamped to the fence ensures each piece is cut the exact same length.

Lay out the cabinet

Laying out the parts is essential for accurate joinery. 

 Put face frame together

Before I bore all of my pocket screws, I put the face frame together. The sides and cross members are almost the same length, and it would be easy to mix them up. I just work my way around the face frame drilling pocket holes with the Kreg jig.

Drilling kreg holes

I clamp the Kreg Jig onto the end of my cross members and drill two pocket holes in the end of each wider piece. Boring the large pocket holes makes a lot of wood chips, and I am sure to clean up before I move on to the next hole.

Drilling holes on thin parts

For the thinner cross members, I actually set them next to each other to support the Kreg Jig. While I have to shift the jig when I move to the next boring, this simple move supports the jig very well. 

Assemble the face frame

The Kreg screws are self-tapping, but I clamp the face frame down when I assemble it. The screws have a tendency to grab, and the frame can become offset if I’m not careful.

Sand the face frame

Sanding the face frame is easy when it is laying at this height. I level any unevenness with 150 grit sandpaper and then sand with the grain all the way around the frame.

Boring pocket screws

I bore the pocket holes on the shelves. The shelves are attached to the sides of the cabinet with drywall screws, and to the face frame with Kreg screws. It is important to drill these before attaching them to the sides of the cabinet, as this is difficult to accomplish in a tight space.

Predrill the sides

I stack the two sides of the cabinet and drill pilot holes at the same time. This way I only have to measure once and the two sets of holes are perfectly lined up.

Assemble cabinet

Building the cabinet is pretty easy when all of my parts are the correct size! I use two small spacers on the bottom to hold the panel off of the ground plane, and use a larger spacer for the shelves in the middle. I am sure to drill these snug, but not too tight. All of these screws need to come out and be installed again in Upstate New York. I use a Japanese square to confirm that the cabinet is coming together perfectly.

Attaching the frame face

I attach the assembled cabinet box to the face frame. I screw the top and bottom with pocket screws first, and then get inside and screw the shelves to the thinner face frame members. 

Labled parts

While the cabinet was together, I carefully marked the parts in permanent marker with text, letters, numbers and alignment strikes to simplify the reassembly of the cabinet. I made sure to enclose all of the screws (and some extras) as well as an extra long driver for the Kreg Screws to save my pal the trouble of tracking one down at a home store in Upstate New York. I am really excited to ship this off!

Weighing the cabinet

At the FedEx store, we weighed and measured the disassembled cabinet. You can see the 1/8” thick plywood back of the cabinet, which I ripped in half to fit into the box efficiently. It came in just under 50 lbs. and fit into a package 30” x 30” x 5”. To ship a package this size and weight was only $30.00. My helpful clerk Ian suggested Fed-Ex make a custom box for me for $20.00, which I happily accepted. I asked Ian how much the same weight package would cost if the cabinet had been fully built and packaged at 32” x 32” x 32” and he confirmed my suspicions: delivery alone was a whopping $158.00!!! Upstate New York, here we come.

Upstate cabinet assembly

The cabinet parts arrived safe and sound, and go together as expected. Michael is one of those corduroy-jacket with elbow patch type history professors but can handle a cordless drill pretty well. Notice all of the toys in the background looking for a home. He really needs this cabinet for his living room.

Assembled cabinet

We did exchange a couple of phone calls during the process, but considering I didn’t write any construction steps down for him, this felt OK. After having put together many KD pieces from IKEA and other box stores in the past, Michael remarked, ”It feels pretty sweet to put together something that is well made with high quality materials…you know, crafted.” Yes, Michael, I do know.

Installed cabinet

The cabinet fits perfectly! Now all Michael needs to do is get a fresh coat of paint on the fireplace brick and stuff the cabinet with toys. We were both thrilled that the project went as smoothly as it did. Getting accurate measurements on his end was key to the project, and using the modeling software helped me measure dimensions and angles easily. The Kreg Jig was the perfect for assembly and disassembly on this project, and knowing Michael was competent with a cordless drill made all the difference.