Product Reviews » Woodmaster 718 Review Part 2
In the first installment of this review, I looked at the set up of the Woodmaster 718, shared some initial impressions, and shared the results of my planing tests. In this segment I will look at the remaining functions that the 718 performs; drum sanding, gang ripping and molding, and will also share some observations about dust collection.
DRUM SANDING
I think it is brilliant to offer this as an add-on to a planer and I am surprised that other tool manufacturers don’t do so. My shop is modest in size, and I had not been willing to give up the floor space for a dedicated drum sander, so having it share the footprint of my planer is a huge bonus.
Overall I think the drum sander is pretty decent, but if I had significant drum sanding requirements I would likely try to find a creative way to fit a dedicated drum sander into my shop. The 718 has a smaller diameter sanding drum (3-1/4”), which does not deliver as flat of a sanding surface as larger dedicated drum sanders which typically have 5”-6” diameter drums. But for my needs, which include occasionally flattening a glued up panel or sanding an end grain cutting board, I have found it more than adequate. I expect to do a bit of work with a random orbital sander after running it through the drum sander, and I am OK with that for occasional use. The trade-off is shop space vs. time, and I have more time than space.

Initial Installation
I installed the drum sanding cylinder and applied the hook and loop backing. The process was straightforward. The changeover between planing and sanding was about a 10 minute operation the second time I did it, which was quicker and simpler than I expected. It is interesting to note that the sander uses a larger pulley and belt to slow down the rotation speed, which reduces the chances of burning, particularly with finer grit abrasives. You can watch a video on the changeover process here: Woodmaster 718 Changeover Process
Hook and Loop Trade-offs
There are advantages and disadvantages to the hook and loop system used for abrasives on the 718. On the plus side, changing abrasives is easy, and you can run two different grits at the same time (one on each end of the drum) for two-step sanding without stopping to swap abrasives. The hook and loop system also adds a small buffer between the work piece and the drum, which dampens vibration and therefore quiets the operation. On the downside, the abrasives can cost a bit more, and the softness of the sanding surface may tend to slightly round over edge surfaces. I don’t plan to use it for edges, as I will likely use my jointer for this purpose, but some woodworkers like to use a drum sander to clean up saw marks on rails and face frame components (which is handy because you can run multiples in a single run), and this could potentially cause a slight gap in a joint in those applications. Also, if I ever have to replace the Velcro backing I suspect I am in for quite a project given the bonding strength of the adhesive used.

Sanding Glued-up Panels
I happened to have a project that I was working on that involved an 18” table top, so it was a good test for the drum sander. I passed the glued up panel through the sander, removing about 1/64” per pass using 80 grit paper, and it had flattened the panel in 5 passes.
End Grain Sanding
One of the most tedious tasks that you can do in the shop is to sand end grain, particularly on hardwoods. So I decided to test the drum sanding function on a large end grain cutting board, and I was impressed by the speed and quality that the 718 delivered in this operation. I ran through with 80-grit, followed by 150-grit, which left me with only quick cleanup using a random orbital sander. The flatness produced on this compared to starting with a hand held belt sander was outstanding, and the speed was equally impressive.
Given the smaller drum size, I have to admit that it has surpassed my expectations as a drum sander. In addition to the time savings and quality improvement, I love the dust capture of the 718 compared to using a belt sander to flatten glue-ups. For a tool that requires zero incremental footprint (given that I have already allocated the space for a planer), I really couldn’t be more pleased. If I ever move into a bigger shop I will likely invest in a dedicated drum sander with a larger drum, as this will deliver even better surface quality. But for now this is far better than no drum sander at all.
MOLDING
It is, perhaps, the molding capability that separates this machine more than anything else. The power, precision, and weight of the 718 make it an ideal platform for milling anything from a chair rail to log siding and anything in between. With over 600 stock profiles and a custom molding knife service, the possibilities are virtually endless. It seems that many people purchase this machine primarily for the purpose of running a molding business, and the testimonials of these customers are impressive. While I don’t have an interest in starting a production molding business, I occasionally have a need for molding on a furniture project, and I do a fair amount of DIY work as well so I am sure that I will find plenty of use for this functionality.
Molding Setup
Configuring the 718 to mill molding was straightforward. The “Pro-Pack” comes with a molding head designed to hold a molding cutter up to 3-1/4” wide, while larger profile cutters can be installed in the standard planer head. I used a crown molding profile that is 4-3/8” wide, so I set it up in the planer head. Also, because the standard planer head is over 18” wide, I can set up multiple profiles at once, and as you can see in the photo I installed both the top and bottom profiles for the crown molding in a single setup, which is slick.

Running Molding
I was pleased, and frankly surprised by how simple it was to produce molding. The power and refinement of the machine are both quite apparent when running hard maple planks through and removing nearly ¾” in a single pass. I found that the machine had adequate power to run the molding in a single pass per side, but I got a better quality on the face side by running it in two passes.

Molding Quality
This machine produces molding of high end quality and consistency. By controlling the feed rate I was able to produce molding that requires no sanding by my standards. I can easily see how people run production molding businesses with this machine.
GANG RIP SAW
For prepping stock for large molding runs, the gang rip saw capability is a neat option. It allows for safe, quick ripping of multiple strips in a single pass, which delivers better quality and consistency compared
to performing this function on a table saw.
Setup
The first-time setup of this function is a bit putsy, with five screws, two collars and two keys required per blade. Once this is done the first time, however, reconfiguration back to the rip saw setup is relatively quick as you can store the blades with collars attached and simple mount the keys and tighten the set screws. This setup also requires the use of a guide rail on the poly bedboard, and achieving a straight rip is not possible without this. I was told this by a rep from Woodmaster, but for some reason I needed to learn for myself. Confirmed. Use a guide rail or the rip won’t be straight.

Rip Operation
I found that I could feed stock through at full speed (16 feet per minute) and the machine powered through the cuts. It was the quietest, safest ripping I have ever done. No burn marks or chatter on hard maple.

Results
The quality of the ripped edges was impressive and dead-on straight with no measurable run-out. These could easily be used for edge gluing without having to run through a jointer. In addition to the obvious application of this for molding, I could also see prepping stock for any project that required a large number of narrow strips (face frames, cutting boards, canoe, etc.).
DUST COLLECTION OBSERVATIONS
Dust hood
The dust collection hood that comes with the 718 is solidly constructed of 14 and 16 gauge welded steel with a 4” dust port. It is also positioned at an optimal angle to capture debris as it flies off the blades or abrasives, assisting its launch into the dust port and improving capture rate.
With adequate suction, I am able to collect the majority (nearly all) of dust and debris. In my setup, I have a 6” dust hose that goes right up to a reducer down to 4” at the 718. With this configuration I can pull over 850 CFM from my cyclone, and the collection is quite good. It requires some serious air movement, however, to collect adequately, which I would expect from an 18” cutterhead that can take such a deep cut. Before moving the 718 to its permanent location, I ran a 14’ x 4” flexible hose to it, connected to the same dust collector. Because of the long section of flexible hose my CFM dropped to around 550 CFM (35% drop), and I noticed a significant decrease in collection, with copious amounts of shavings and dust spewing about. This is an example of why it is important to minimize the flex tubing to maximize suction at any large debris producer such as a large planer. For more information on how to optimize your dust collection ductwork, see my article on this topic here: Hooking Up Your Tools for Better Dust Collection.

Careful; it will fill your dust collector FAST!
When you remove 3/16” per pass from a long, wide plank, you will fill your dust collector in minutes. Because my old planer was removing a relatively small amount of material, I had grown accustomed to a slower frequency for emptying my dust bin, but as you can see here I was caught off guard and tried to put 50 gallons of stuff in a 35 gallon barrel.
OVERALL CONCLUSIONS
This machine has exceeded my expectations on nearly every front. The power, precision, and flexibility are all outstanding. As a furniture maker, I will use the planer functionality first and foremost. If I look at the machine strictly as a planer, I believe it holds its own with comparably priced dedicated stationary planers, and has the unique attribute of being American made. When I consider the other functions that that the 718 offers (molding, gang rip, drum sander), I believe that this machine delivers more value per square inch of shop space than any other piece of stationary equipment on the market today.
Source
718P-153 Model 718 with Pro-Pack $2,874
718-SH2 Spiral head for 718 planer $1,125
3875P Farm Duty 5HP motor upgrade $195
WM47T Crown Top 11/16” x 4-5/8” $95
WM47B Crown Bottom 11/16” x 4-5/8” $95
Woodmaster Tools, Inc.
www.woodmastertools.com
800-821-6651
10 Comments
Have owned a woodmaster for 5 years and it is a very valuable tool in my shop. I have found that now I can make any tipe of molding, sand any kind of wood and cut wood faster than ever before
Hi Rich, Thanks for the comments. Glad that you are having a positive experience with your Woodmaster as well.
Dear Sirs. Thanks for showing me a tool as useful and able to do many things, including the tongue and groove. Y is for why we use it, we? Or is there a machine capable of doing the same work, as for a seguda stage. Thanks for the info. of you closely. Rafael Rodriguez
Hi Rafael, There are other machines capable of producing tongue and groove joinery. For short runs you can do this effectively on the table saw, router table or shaper. For production applications there are high end machines capable of doing this with great speed and precision. It all depends on your requirements and budget. I am not familiar with other tools that can perform all of the functions that the Woodmaster delivers in this price range, however. To me, the planing capabilities were the most important aspect of the machine. I believe that Woodmaster is best known, however, for its molding capabilities. If production tongue and groove milling is your primary application I would suggest that you explore the market a bit for a dedicated solution for this process.
Hi Paul, A really great review and extremely timely as I have a Woodmaster 725 with helical head and a 712 set-up as a gang rip saw on the way. I am doing glue-ups for butcher blocks and would appreciate your wisdom and experience on the following aspects related to this: 1) When gang ripping, does it need a guide rail flush on both sides of the stock being ripped? 2) Can the ripped edges go straight to glue-up (i.e. 100% straight and smooth enough for Titebond III) without the need for a jointer? 3) The glued-up panels will then go through the 725 to prepare them for the 2nd glue up to end grain. The panels are 24" x 29" x 2" and heavy - do you think the 725 planer will do a good enough job flattening them for the 2nd glue-up without the need for flattening the surfaces by hand (or with a huge jointer)? Many thanks, Anton
Hi Treeco, You are set up nicely on the Woodmaster front. :) You may have noticed in this article that I built an end grain cutting board which you can see in the fifth photo, and I did exactly what you are describing for the second glue-up. Answers to your questions: 1) I believe it is required to have a guide rail on each side of the work piece as you are ripping, especially since you want to establish a glue joint with the cut. 2) Yes, the joints that I cut with the rip saw were adequate for gluing without further milling on a jointer. Very impressive glue line, actually. 3) Yes, the surface quality that you establish after planing should be adequate for gluing without further machining with a couple important caveats. You will need to ensure that your infeed and outfeed table heights are set accurately. If they are not, you will end up with uneven surface. I set both my infeed and outfeed a bit too high in an effort to reduce snipe, and I ended up creating a low spot in the middle of the planed board. Moving the beds back to nearly flat cured the problem. Also, do whatever you can to eliminate snipe, as this will surely cause you problems with your second glue up as well. In addition to adjusting the pressure on the feed rollers, one thing that I have found that makes a difference for reducing snipe is slowing the feed rate. When I am planing something where it is critical to have no snipe I reduce the feed rate to about half and it makes a big difference. Good luck!
Many thanks for the very useful info Paul. I will design and built a sled to hold the planks tight and parallel to the blades for ripping. Like you I also have everything hooked up to a Clear View Cyclone (mine's a CV Max with a Variable Frequency Drive controlling a 3phase 5.5HP motor - very happy with it so far)
Treeco, Between Woodmaster and Clear Vue I think I would feel right at home in your shop; yours sounds like a "supersized" version of my shop! The Clear Vue can keep up with the chip and dust production on the Woodmaster, which is absolutely amazing to me because the Woodmaster can produce some debris! Take care, Paul
Paul, a thought toward the removing/replacing of the Velcro strip on the sander drum (I am trying to get brave enough to start applying it the first time - I have a 712 which has only been used in planing to date). Thanks to you for your excellent articles and video (and a problematic second glue up cutting board I am trying to salvage) for giving me the courage to take the plunge. I am wondering if you think removing the drum from the machine and applying "Goo-Gone" to the Velcro would soften the remarkable adhesive enough to facilitate the process. That said, I know the drum would need to be thoroughly cleansed of the Goo-Gone (thinking Dawn dish washing liquid here). thnx, ned
Hi Ned, Thanks for the comments. As far as removing the velkro, I don't know about using goo gone. I would give the support guys at Woodmaster a call before putting anything that harsh on there. I am sure they will have some solid guidance for you. Cheers, Paul