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Four Glues To Stick With

by George Vondriska
Photos by George Vondriska
Posted: January 24, 2011

 

Four GluesThere are a boat load of great glues in the market place, and this can be confusing.  This story will help you narrow your arsenal down to four must-have types of glue, and tell you why you need them, and where you’ll use them.  Here are the four go-to glues in my shop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

YYellow Glueellow Glue

 This is the stuff we’re all the most familiar with.  Yellow glue, carpenter’s glue… The old stand by.  If you want to know the chemistry, yellow glue is an aliphatic resin in the polyvinyl acetate family. 

 

If you’re building furniture and cabinets yellow glue will handle almost all of your gluing needs.  It’s easy to work with, can be cleaned up with water while it’s wet and, once cured, is stronger than the wood you’re gluing together.

 

Yellow glue sands better than its cousin, white glue, which has a tendency to get soft during sanding and gum up your paper.  Standard yellow glue isn’t water resistant, so it’s not a good choice for damp applications.  One down side…yellow glue tacks fairly quickly so you’ve got to keep moving while gluing up so the parts don’t start to grab before you’re ready.

 

 

Titebond IIITitebond III

 This is not a type of glue, it’s a specific brand.  Titebond III is water resistant, and has most of the working characteristics of yellow glue.  Its sandability is good, and it has about a 10 minute open time.  Although water resistant when dry, it cleans up with water when wet.  Titebond III is not a glue you can build a boat with, but it’s an excellent choice for cutting boards, outdoor furniture, and other items that will see moisture.  The only reason to not simply substitute this product for yellow glue across the board is price, Titebond III being more expensive than yellow glues.  The presence of moisture in the material being glued will retard the cure time of Titebond III.

 

 

 

 

 

Polyurethane GluePolyurethane Glue

Polyurethane glue is another water resistant adhesive.  Polyurethane glue cures in the presence of moisture, so the material being glued has to be damp for this glue to work.  That characteristic makes this product a great choice when assembling projects made from pressure treated wood, which is often damp.  If you use polyurethane on kiln dried stock you’ll have to spritz a little water on the joint in order for the glue to work.

 

End grain to end grain joints are historically problematic when it comes to strength.  Polyurethane glue is a good choice for this application, doing a better job than yellow glue of handling porous end grain.

 

Polyurethane glue is a good choice for gluing non-wood items.  It’s slightly more gap-filling than other glues, but don’t count on it to take the place of good joinery.  It foams as it cures, making a big bubbly mess at the joint.  DON’T WIPE THE BIG BUBBLY MESS!  Let it get hard, then cut it off using a sharp chisel. 

 

Ambient humidity can be enough to make this glue cure.  So, once you’ve opened the bottle, you need to use it up fairly quickly.

 

 

CyanoacrylateCyanoacrylate

CA glue (cyanoacrylate) is the super glue of the wood shop.  There are so many places I use this stuff.  It bonds quickly.  In fact, nearly instantly.  It’s available in different viscosities, from watery thin to jelly thick.  The thin stuff can be flowed into punky wood to reinforce it, saving a piece you might have otherwise thrown out.  The thicker stuff will fill gaps.  I use CA glue in my woodturnings all the time, and it has saved a number of bowls (where I caught a chisel and broke the rim) from the fireplace. 

 

Downside? CA glue is brittle.  It certainly wouldn’t be a good choice for a mortise and tenon joint, or any place where daily stress could crack the glue.   Relative to other glues, it’s expensive.  The fumes from this glue can be irritating, and some people react adversely to them, so be careful there.

 

CA glues can be used with or without an accelerator.  The accelerator speeds up the cure process, changing a 30-50 second cure time to a right now cure time.  If you use accelerator put it on one surface first, since it has a longer open time than the glue.  Put glue on the mating surface.  Once you touch the two together, you’re done.  Be conservative with the accelerator.  Sometimes using too much can weaken the joint.

 

Related Videos:

Cyanaoacrylate Adhesive (CA) Wood Turning Application

Strength of Glue Joint

Glue Removal Tip

Using Yellow Glue to Fill Small Voids

Article Rating:

9.44 (18 Votes)


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9 Comments

  1. Daryl H. Bender (1 year ago)

    Would you address the Gorilla wood glue. I think it is in th same class as Titebond III but it is much lower price. Would like to hear your comments.

  2. Steve (1 year ago)

    I like the article but I thought all the things in the "are you human?" spot looked like coffee cups!!!

  3. Ronald Poling (1 year ago)

    good article, I am just beginning to do wood working., and this helps me understand what glue to use,

  4. Garz (1 year ago)

    I've just started using Polyurethane Glue and find the glue stays longer after opening if you keep the bottle pointed down and put the cap on. Then store the bottle upside-down.......the glue lasts much longer this way after opening than storing the glue upright.

  5. GeorgeVondriska (1 year ago)

    Gorilla Wood Glue, not their polyurethane, is Type II water resistant. This means a test joint was soaked in water for four hours, then baked for 19 hours. This happens three times. If the joint doesn't fail, it's Type II. Titebond III is Type I waterproof. These test joints are boiled four hours, baked over 20 hours, then boiled four hours more. After that it's cooled down under running water. While still wet from testing the glue goes through a strength test. If the wood breaks before the glue, the glue passes the test. Both tests are obviously pretty rigorous, and a good indication of the amazing properties of today's glues. G

  6. gppatnude (1 year ago)

    George: WWGOA is becoming a real storehouse of valuable information. The most recent issues of the newlsetter are prime examples of this. Keep up the great work!!

  7. GeorgeVondriska (1 year ago)

    Thanks for the nice comment. We're working hard to keep good info coming your way. G

  8. Bruce Hodgman (1 year ago)

    WWGOA is great. I've learned so much. As for your choices of 4 glues I must have, I agree, but would add Plastic Resin Glue to the list. It is the only one that allows a great length of time to get the clamping just right on a complicated glue-up

  9. Dale Carpenter (1 year ago)

    I agree with the comments above about WWGOA. I've been into woodworking for sometime, but always find the info. I get on your website helpful.

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